Hey just stopped by to thank you for your videos. I have absolutely 0 soldering experience ever in my life (I’m 36). I came across 2 broken Game Gears and found one of your old videos on how to fully recap a Game Gear. I bought the Retrosix capacitor packs and I fully recapped the main board, audio board & power board by using your video as a guide… And it worked! I fully brought the Game Gear back to life. Now I’m inspired to fix other broken consoles I come across as well. Thanks for your helpful vids!
Super dope! Perfect timing as well because I’m getting ready to install one of your clean screens and a new soundboard on my personal game gear myself later this week!
Can I ask what the holy grail of combos is to put a new game gear together is? What sound board? What LCD? What main board? Etc etc. I'd love to amass the ultimate game gear.
I used to see this a lot on really cheaply made boards. The solder mask layer on some is flammable, and burns really easily. Also it looks like the traces are very thin, which is concerning.
These are Guoji GF113 Black Core boards with Taiyo inkt… which are not cheap PCBs. The trace width is 0.175mm on 1oz laminate, which is way bigger then what’s used for other products these days.
@@RetroSix the only thing I can see clearly on the video is that the solder didn't make it to the bottom of the main PCB and that some of the "eyelets" are lifted away altogether. If the holes are still metallised and the traces are broken near the holes, components legs could provide a quick fix. Still, you had the board in your hands, so I trust your judgement (and respect your patience, I exhausted mine many years ago 😂).
@bufordmaddogtannen yes the vias are plated through hole. No need for solder to flow through to the other side. And as the board was smoking heavily as I was soldering and smelt very bad I soldered most to top via and confirmed continuity from top to bottom with multimeter. They all connected through vias
Luke do you think this would be something happening only because of the colored board?so you think the white clear coating would suffer the same (i know you use white on your products) I’m asking because I’m planning a fully white build using matt’s board and a clean juice and clean amp but now you got me worried that this might happen to me.
I'm thinking it's just this clear coating but could also be the solder the customer used prior to my work reacting in some way. No other normal colour has this issue
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey just stopped by to thank you for your videos. I have absolutely 0 soldering experience ever in my life (I’m 36). I came across 2 broken Game Gears and found one of your old videos on how to fully recap a Game Gear. I bought the Retrosix capacitor packs and I fully recapped the main board, audio board & power board by using your video as a guide… And it worked! I fully brought the Game Gear back to life. Now I’m inspired to fix other broken consoles I come across as well. Thanks for your helpful vids!
Nice work. Glad you got inspired
that must had taken you hours to fix all those traces . very good fix 😊😊
Super dope! Perfect timing as well because I’m getting ready to install one of your clean screens and a new soundboard on my personal game gear myself later this week!
Nice work mate!!
Nice dog 🐶🐶🐶
Hope he's not using a clear case 🤣
Oh man. Have a blue board set coming, hopefully i dont have any issues with it.
Can I ask what the holy grail of combos is to put a new game gear together is? What sound board? What LCD? What main board? Etc etc. I'd love to amass the ultimate game gear.
I used to see this a lot on really cheaply made boards. The solder mask layer on some is flammable, and burns really easily.
Also it looks like the traces are very thin, which is concerning.
These are Guoji GF113 Black Core boards with Taiyo inkt… which are not cheap PCBs. The trace width is 0.175mm on 1oz laminate, which is way bigger then what’s used for other products these days.
What about using resistor legs to make sure the black PCB is actually soldered to the main board, instead of using bodge wires?
good idea 💡💡
They are soldered to the pins the actual traces are broke
@@RetroSix the only thing I can see clearly on the video is that the solder didn't make it to the bottom of the main PCB and that some of the "eyelets" are lifted away altogether.
If the holes are still metallised and the traces are broken near the holes, components legs could provide a quick fix.
Still, you had the board in your hands, so I trust your judgement (and respect your patience, I exhausted mine many years ago 😂).
@bufordmaddogtannen yes the vias are plated through hole. No need for solder to flow through to the other side. And as the board was smoking heavily as I was soldering and smelt very bad I soldered most to top via and confirmed continuity from top to bottom with multimeter. They all connected through vias
@@RetroSix. I see, thanks for the clarification. 👍🏻
Luke do you think this would be something happening only because of the colored board?so you think the white clear coating would suffer the same (i know you use white on your products) I’m asking because I’m planning a fully white build using matt’s board and a clean juice and clean amp but now you got me worried that this might happen to me.
I'm thinking it's just this clear coating but could also be the solder the customer used prior to my work reacting in some way. No other normal colour has this issue
Hmm I wonder what is wrong with this b- ohhh lawd