Good explanation. Standard die thread is 14 threads per inch. That is .071" of length per turn. If the press is camming over, you are squeezing past all the slop in the linkage to ensure the die is truly bottomed out against the shell holder. Factory rifles for newer calibers may have really tight chambers because they want the best performance out of factory ammo (which is always well under the SAAMI minimum chamber headspace). Unfortunately many die manufacturers haven't figured this out yet. If cam-over is still not enough, it is not uncommon to have to remove some material from the die or shell holder.
Really, that's a thing, huh? I'm having that exact issue and of course, the more I lower the die, it just keeps the press from camming over, which doesn't work. There really is no adjustment...you go until they touch, down another 1/4 turn, where they still touch, and if that's not enough, removing material on the die is the only solution??? My current die is a Lee Precision...wondering if switching to RCBS would be different?
@@brucemccauley8887 you might swap around shell-holders until you find one that is a little small on that step height. RCBS makes a set of headspace adjusting shell-holders, but I think they are all on the + side.
@@erich9111 Thank you for the reply!! I did check that already, all of my holders seem to be the same...nor am I sure that just ramming it further into the die is the right answer? I'm thinking of purchasing an RCBS die to see if that makes a difference...although hate to spend $50 and have the same issue, but hoping it may just be the Lee Precision die. I've also measured the brass compared to a live round, very similar if not exact. The live round has no issue going into the Win Model 70 but the brass is tight to put down the handle. In my old Rem 7400, they both work great. I'm wondering if the chamber of the M70 is just a tighter tolerance...but not sure what to change to make it less so when resizing the brass. Also, the dimensions of both the live round and resized brass are much lower than the max sizes in the Hornady book for the 30-06 round so there shouldn't be a size issue at all. I've checked some other vids on this problem, but they seemed to have different issues. I'm at a bit of a loss as to why it's tight. It appears to be workable, just don't like it that tight but don't know why it is or what/how to change it...
@@brucemccauley8887 using the same brass in two different rifles is problematic. You might be able to solve the problem by running them through a small base die (that reduces the diameter closer to the case head), but I would still recommend keeping the brass segregated by rifle. Normal sizing dies mostly shorten the headspace. Small base dies put extra wear on the brass by putting extra squeeze on the diameter down the body, but this may be needed to reverse the effect of fire-forming to a loose chamber. Probably your Wilson gauge is extra loose on the body diameter so that it can still get accurate headspace measurements on brass from a loose chamber.
There are so many people who got this wrong (and "teach" other people), I had to read the manual several times to be sure I got it right when I first started reloading.
What if your die instructions say something like, ‘Carbide is a hard and brittle material so you need to back it off half a turn make sure that it doesn’t hit the shell holder because it will chip’?
what about when i do what you said and it goes in but my bolt closes but it closes pretty tight compared to factory ammo that closes like butter on my remington 700 bolt action? what could the problem be then? because i turned it even more and more and eventually it opened and closed easily BUT then i had a new problem which was when sizing, it was very very difficult to get the case in and out of my hornady lock n load press. it took a lot of effort to lock the ram and the case would feel like its catching on the way out about two or three times as if its having a hard time going past something? Thats been my biggest problem and haulted all my reloading for the past year. i have switched lube and that worked a bit but still very very difficult
ill try cleaning it again. i have cleaned it. when i turn back the die as to not size as much the problem decreases to a minimum but then the round wont allow the bolt to properly close. my thought is its something with the brass, specifically where the neck flares out before getting to the main body. i think that may be where its not to spec and causing the brass to touch the inside of the barrel and not close. I have nothing to measure that with or know how to so im not sure but think that may be the issue. Anyone in the los angeles california area that can stop by for an hour and help me figure this out im willing to pay $100 to for what i hope wont take longer than an hour to a pro
@Infectious Legume haha too bad. im using mixed headstaped brass but mainly wolf fired from my AR chambered in a 223 wylde. dies are full length redding dies
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Life is simple WHEN YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Reloading for 12 years now. Never crimped a single round
Good explanation. Standard die thread is 14 threads per inch. That is .071" of length per turn. If the press is camming over, you are squeezing past all the slop in the linkage to ensure the die is truly bottomed out against the shell holder. Factory rifles for newer calibers may have really tight chambers because they want the best performance out of factory ammo (which is always well under the SAAMI minimum chamber headspace). Unfortunately many die manufacturers haven't figured this out yet. If cam-over is still not enough, it is not uncommon to have to remove some material from the die or shell holder.
Really, that's a thing, huh? I'm having that exact issue and of course, the more I lower the die, it just keeps the press from camming over, which doesn't work. There really is no adjustment...you go until they touch, down another 1/4 turn, where they still touch, and if that's not enough, removing material on the die is the only solution??? My current die is a Lee Precision...wondering if switching to RCBS would be different?
@@brucemccauley8887 you might swap around shell-holders until you find one that is a little small on that step height. RCBS makes a set of headspace adjusting shell-holders, but I think they are all on the + side.
@@erich9111 Thank you for the reply!! I did check that already, all of my holders seem to be the same...nor am I sure that just ramming it further into the die is the right answer? I'm thinking of purchasing an RCBS die to see if that makes a difference...although hate to spend $50 and have the same issue, but hoping it may just be the Lee Precision die. I've also measured the brass compared to a live round, very similar if not exact. The live round has no issue going into the Win Model 70 but the brass is tight to put down the handle. In my old Rem 7400, they both work great. I'm wondering if the chamber of the M70 is just a tighter tolerance...but not sure what to change to make it less so when resizing the brass. Also, the dimensions of both the live round and resized brass are much lower than the max sizes in the Hornady book for the 30-06 round so there shouldn't be a size issue at all. I've checked some other vids on this problem, but they seemed to have different issues. I'm at a bit of a loss as to why it's tight. It appears to be workable, just don't like it that tight but don't know why it is or what/how to change it...
Oh, and both fit perfectly in the Wilson cartridge case gage...
@@brucemccauley8887 using the same brass in two different rifles is problematic. You might be able to solve the problem by running them through a small base die (that reduces the diameter closer to the case head), but I would still recommend keeping the brass segregated by rifle. Normal sizing dies mostly shorten the headspace. Small base dies put extra wear on the brass by putting extra squeeze on the diameter down the body, but this may be needed to reverse the effect of fire-forming to a loose chamber. Probably your Wilson gauge is extra loose on the body diameter so that it can still get accurate headspace measurements on brass from a loose chamber.
There are so many people who got this wrong (and "teach" other people), I had to read the manual several times to be sure I got it right when I first started reloading.
Thanks that’s what I was doing wrong.
Imagine how would be if they just read the instructions
What if your die instructions say something like, ‘Carbide is a hard and brittle material so you need to back it off half a turn make sure that it doesn’t hit the shell holder because it will chip’?
out of curiosity - why can the dies not be manufactured in such a way that screwing it in until it touches is enough?
screwing it in a little more just makes it so you dont have to bottom out the press
Because you need to overcam the press a little to ensure enough pressure is placed on the shell.
what about when i do what you said and it goes in but my bolt closes but it closes pretty tight compared to factory ammo that closes like butter on my remington 700 bolt action? what could the problem be then? because i turned it even more and more and eventually it opened and closed easily BUT then i had a new problem which was when sizing, it was very very difficult to get the case in and out of my hornady lock n load press. it took a lot of effort to lock the ram and the case would feel like its catching on the way out about two or three times as if its having a hard time going past something? Thats been my biggest problem and haulted all my reloading for the past year. i have switched lube and that worked a bit but still very very difficult
what cases are you using and are you using a full length die?
ill try cleaning it again. i have cleaned it. when i turn back the die as to not size as much the problem decreases to a minimum but then the round wont allow the bolt to properly close. my thought is its something with the brass, specifically where the neck flares out before getting to the main body. i think that may be where its not to spec and causing the brass to touch the inside of the barrel and not close. I have nothing to measure that with or know how to so im not sure but think that may be the issue. Anyone in the los angeles california area that can stop by for an hour and help me figure this out im willing to pay $100 to for what i hope wont take longer than an hour to a pro
@@eladsinay6914 what kind of measuring devices do you have ,dial indicator, micrometer, OAL gauge?
@Infectious Legume haha too bad. im using mixed headstaped brass but mainly wolf fired from my AR chambered in a 223 wylde. dies are full length redding dies
@@edmundooliver7584 just a micrometer.
In other words…it’s all your fault! READ and FOLLOW the instructions. Duh!