Thanks, particularly, for showing the results - when you do things the wrong way! Many others would just warn you, not, to do some, particular, thing, but you actually demonstrate what happens, when you do. Very good stuff.
I use contact cement to fix my fishing waders if I just have a small hole. I usually buy the tube cement, so I can just squeeze it on around the damaged area and put it on kind of thick. That's it. no patch or anything is necessary. If I actually get a tear, I can use a piece of net drywall tape and make 2 layers, so that I am sure the netting is covered. You need to scuff up the rubber first, and making a circle with a pen or marker helps you to make sure you are covering the right spot. I lay them down flat in a back room overnight, and the glue is hard next morning. It remains just a little bit flexible, which is what you need with waders. It is not good looking, but the fish don't seem to mind, and it is very quick and easy.
Hey Jeff! Thanks dude! Glad you like it! Here’s the link to our channel’s homepage in case you haven’t seen all our other videos : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under the VIDEOS tab at the upper left for a complete list of our build videos and tips videos. Thanks again!
10:45 - outline your cement zone with painters tape. If you go over the edge you're only going over the tape. Then after applying you can pull the tape off. You've gotten cement to the limits of what you wanted and not beyond. You can even do it without a sharpie.
Hey! Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching. We have a lot more videos on prop making and the tips and tools involved. In case you didn’t know, here is the link to our channels home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Thanks again!
Not sure. It might be? The fact that it’s called “contact” makes me think it works the same way, but I can’t be positive. Sorry I can’t be more help. Maybe look up a video on youtube for contact adhesive to be sure.
Hi Hero, The squeeze bottle is made by BENECREAT and I think they were 4 Ounce bottles. You can find them on Amazon. I still haven’t tried using my contact cement with the squeeze bottle yet but at some point I will! Good luck! And have fun! And in case you haven’t seen all of our other tips videos and builds, here is the link to our channel’s home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the upper left of the page to find a complete list of our videos.
@@BlackSheepProps How would you get it in the squeeze bottle? It's so gloppy and runny..Do you use a funnel to get it in the small squeeze bottles? Thanks
Black Sheep Props Having a very tough time with Barge cement. I’ve already had to get thinner to make it less gloppy but it gets all over the place and I’m not getting a good bond.The quart size built-in brush is extremely messy and does not allow for easy application on the surface of the foam
Hi Hero, I have learned a lot about handling my contact cement over the past year or so, here’s what I learned that really helped me. I have to regularly add thinner to keep my Barge nice and thin. I do not use the brush that comes in the quart - I bought a glue pot to hold my cement - which is awesome and it comes with a nice brush that is replaceable. But even with a glue pot, if I am doing a lot of glueing on a prop and the lid to my glue pot is being opened for long periods of time I have to do more thinning because the air gets into the glue pot if the lid is open a lot. I also periodically replace the brush end in my glue pot. And when I do add thinner to my cement I also clean out the brush in the glue pot as well - nice to keep everything smooth and clean and not gloppy. Keeping it all clean is SUPER important I learned. Try getting a glue pot - it’s been great. On Amazon search for an ATCO Cement Keeper. Leather repair guys use it for all their work - it’s great if you plan on doing a lot of builds. Hope that helps.
Hi! It is called a GLUE POT or a CEMENT KEEPER. My glue pot is made by ATCO. You can buy it online at several different places. It is a fantastic thing to use with your contact cement.
Hi Paul! Since you can’t use copyrighted music in a video I swam through a bunch of different royalty free sites to find just the one I wanted. It lists the track as “4x4 Off Road”.
Hi PE, I use BESTINE Rubber Cement Thinner. And don’t use too much or it can cause the glue to delaminate. Use just enough to stir it up and get it a bit thinner.
@@x.y.8581 The manufacturers recommend only their own overpriced thinner. I have found that xylene works best when MEK is not available. MEK substitute does not work.
@@x.y.8581 That's the issue. I can't bring myself to dump a gallon of old Barge. A pint of a random brand from a hardware store, no problem, but not Barge. I will never buy Barge again, as I've moved on to a water-based contact adhesive. But I still need to use up the Barge I have on hand.
I've used contact cements for close to 50 years. If you want stronger bonds, then let your surfaces to be joined cure for all day, or overnight, then reactivate the cement with your heat gun, then join your substrates, and press until the product has cooled.
Hi Zoila, Wow! You are too kind. Thanks! Glad it helped. Contact cement is totally awesome. In case you haven’t seen all the other videos on our channel, here is the link to the channels home page so you can check them out : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Thanks again!
OH NO! Well I’m glad the video helped! In case you didn’t know we have a lot of other tips videos and builds if you are interested : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list.
But how does it ACTUALLY work?? And instead of leaving it to dry for 5 minutes, or as my can says: 20 min, what if you left it for a week or a year? Would it still stick when the 2 items are brought in contact? I guess I could do an experiment. But I'm impatient.
08:30 Another option to assemble these kinds of assemblies is to apply isopropyl alcohol to the cement before assembling. Source: Honda handgrip cement installation instructions ( 08F69-MFY-1000-91 )
Loved your tutorial. Been using contact cement for 40 years. I learned two valuable lessons about putting the pieces together while wet, and using heat gun to undo the parts. Can I use acetone to thin contact cement (Dap weldwood brand).? Thank you for your lesson in the you tube classroom, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Hey! Glad the video helped. Yeah, I periodically use small amounts of thinner to make my cement less thick so it spreads easier. But not too much or it will cause the cement to separate and it gets weird.
Back in the 60's, you had to have a license to buy Barge cement. Other contact cements, not. I wonder if "Barge" changed their formulae or if the powers that be just got more reasonable.
Thanks for the video! I have a few questions: 1. Is contact cement the same as rubber cement? 2. Although you had demonstrated that the cement would not bond when 'wet', but what happens if you apply the cement on two pieces and then press the two pieces together, cement onto cement, but then let it sit for a long time (hours) such that the cement dries? Would they bond? 3. You had also demonstrated that if only one piece has the cement, you cannot bond two pieces together. Again, what if you do give the pieces enough time for the cement to dry? Would they bond?
Hi PX, 1. Not really, contact cement really only sticks to other contact cement. It’s a two part thing. Dry cement sticks to dry cement unlike rubber cement when rubber cement can be applied to just one piece and it can stick to something. 2. Actually yes. A bunch of my builds require sliding a piece of foam into a super tight area that requires two pieces of foam to rub together as I’m putting them in place which could never happen once the cement is dry - but if both pieces are wet and I slide them in it will eventually dry and they will stick together. Check out my video for the arm cannon, at 7:50 of Arm Cannon Part 1 I show that. Apparently the solvent inside the contact cement evaporates and they will stick. 3. Probably. Because the wet cement from the one piece would rub on the other piece and they would stick. But you would have to let the two pieces sit there for a while until they dried and one of the pieces could move a bit before it dries? If you cemented both pieces and waited for both to dry then you will guarantee that they stick right where you want them to.
Hi Phileas, No, rubber cement is different. Yes, wet on wet will eventually stick once they dry. Sometimes I need to stick a wood dowel into a cavity in my foam so I will coat the dowel with wet cement and then I will slide it into the cavity so it rubs onto the inside walls of the cavity - and after a few minutes the solvent content will evaporate and they will be stuck together. Best way though is to coat 2 pieces, let them dry and then stick them.
My pleasure! Glad it helped when you needed it! In case you haven’t been to our channels home page, here’s the link. We have a bunch of cool tips videos and prop builds you might want to check out. th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just check under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the top. Thanks for watching!
Underrated video. I had some questions regarding contact cement since I've never used this stuff and this video was exactly what I was looking for. Very informative.
Hi there, for a porous surface like wood, should I first put a layer on it , wait half an hour, then re apply? Also how long is it ok to route the edges (laminate on wood)?
Hi Christopher! Unfortunately I only work with EVA Foam when I build my props. I have never used wood or used contact cement on wood, sorry I can’t help you with your question.
Actually I do periodically use a wood dowel inside my foam to give it stability. I have contact cemented a piece of foam to a wood dowel so I know it works great on wood in that case - but I have never tried to cement wood to wood.
Im just trying this for the first time, im trying to make concrete molds for firepit tops using foam blue board, found this from a smokless firepit video, but he had it in like a propane tank with hose and spray gun, you said you used this often, maybe try that out, not sure pros and cons, just like learning and sharing knowledge
Hey James! If the issue is about contact cementing the blue foam together to create a mold, it should work. Contact cement holds super strong foam on foam. Maybe layer up the foam boards so its really thick - that way when you cement all the blue foam walls together to make your mold there will be a wider contact area where you are sticking them together. May the force be with you.
Excellent demonstration covering a variety of do's and don'ts. Question: There's a lad in another video who suggested using a heat gun to quicken the drying process of the edges just glued, if in a hurry; therefore, is this suggested a don't?
Hi Timothy, I have seen a lot of builders speed up the drying time before they attach 2 pieces by using a bit of heat. Most of the time using a blow dryer so it helps the contact cement dry faster before they stick the pieces together. When your layer of glue is applied smooth and not too thick it dry pretty fast. Once in a while if I have applied my cement too heavy and it’s a bit too wet, I might hold it in front of a regular fan for a minute to help it dry quicker. But most of the time it drys pretty quick on it’s own. Thanks for watching! Here’s the link to our channels homepage in case you haven’t seen our other videos : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Great video. I just used this stuff for the first time to attach a bracket with a rubber base onto the underside of my car dash. I followed the directions which said to wait 10 minutes before putting the parts together and 24 hours before putting a load on it. The fix worked very well. Now I know why.
Great video. Clear, concise, very little gabbing, tons of info, and no annoying background music. Question: If I use the contact cement for a sculpture and sit it in the hot sun on a daily basis, will the glue fail?
Thanks! I have heard cosplayers wearing their foam stuff for too long in the heat can cause the glue to fail. But I’ve never done it. I do know too much heat from the heat gun can cause the glue to delaminate and come apart. So I’d watch out with the heat.
Also those gloves should be plastic not latex because exposure to latex can cause a latex allergy that can be deadly.Even of you don't think you have a latex allergy because people can develop a latex allergy at any time.
To cover relatively large areas (for example, two 14"x14" surfaces) in an appropriate amount of time (to avoid excessive drying), should the contact cement be rolled on? And if so, how likely is it of applying too thick a coating by rolling? Any pointers for rolling on contact cement would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, I have covered large areas by pouring the cement out in a puddle and using a large throw away brush to paint the entire surface fairly quickly. It takes several minutes to begin drying and even after it is dry it will still make contact with another surface with dry cement on it. That’s actually how contact cement works on all of my builds - coat 2 pieces and let them both fully dry and then they will stick together.
I bought some contact cement about 2-3 weeks ago, and it’s already fully dried despite being sealed when I’m not using it. Is there any way to revert it back to a liquid once it’s fully dried?
Hi Louise! Totally know the feeling! I use an ATCO glue pot (or cement keeper) and it has a large opening at the top so when I am using it all day it repeatedly gets opened and closed and can start to get thick after one day of being exposed to tons of air, so what I regularly do is pour in some thinner and stir it up and it thins it out back into a much more smooth and watery consistency. Don’t go too crazy though, just pour a bit in and stir it. If it looks like it still needs to be thinner then add a bit more and just keep adding until it’s a thin as you want it. Gotta have thinner always on hand to keep your glue smooth. I use Bestine Rubber Cement Thinner. Been great for me!
Hi Roseller, I have never tried that, I am not sure? You can probably just apply more contact cement over the cement that has dried. Thanks for watching! Here is the link to our home page in case you haven’t seen all of our other tips videos and builds. th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
I need to reattach half of my shoe sole to a shoe. Would shoe goo be good enough or would barge be better. I'm looking for economical yet quality. (I don't have much money.)
Hi! Sorry, but I’m not sure. I use contact cement on eva foam, making foam props so I can’t answer concerning shoes. Again, sorry. But I have seen tons of shoe repair folks using contact cement - seems like it’s their go-to glue?
I help my dad sometimes since he’s been doing shoe repair for a long time, and I didn’t know what this was called until now. I was realizing too that he would let the glue dry, then he would attack the sole to the shoe and after that he would hammer the sole to the shoe to make sure it’s intact. I’m also learning how to shoe shine, dye animal skin boots (don’t know what they’re called) to a different color.
I have a question im trying to duplicate a water fan inner liner the one that came with over time crack all up so im trying to use rubber will contact cement work for the job im trying to build?
I’m sorry but I only use contact cement on foam for my prop building, not really sure about your question. Sorry. I would call the number for your brand of contact cement, I’m sure they probably have some there who could answer that. Good luck.
Hi Andre, As long as the can is sealed it lasts a long time. I pour some into my glue pot and reseal the can until I need to pour more into my glue pot so the contact cement sits for quite a while on the shelf in my garage until I need to pour more into the glue pot. And every time I re-open the contact cement can the contents are still good. Should last a long time.
Hi! Not really, it’s about 5 or 6 feet away so it’s a gentle breeze. Drying faster is actually good - it’s a pain in the butt waiting the 4 or 5 minutes before you can stick two pieces together. I have never experienced the fan breeze thickening it before. Opening the cement keeper ( some call it a glue pot ) regularly can let air into the pot and it can start to thicken the glue but I pour a small amount of thinner into it periodically and stir it up and it helps reliquify it .
If I am using contact cement (Barge) for patches on a leather jacket, how long do I wait for it to dry before connecting them together? And iz this a good method when sewing is not an option? Thx
Hi Nicki, I usually work with foam but I have used leather a couple times. Two pieces of leather have stayed together since I stuck them - still strong! Not sure which would be stronger since I have never sewn before? But the contact cement is crazy strong. As far as drying goes, just wait till the shiny wet look is gone, and both pieces are dry to the touch and then they will bond together.
Hi TF, Not sure? I have used it to cement foam to leather, leather to leather, the fuzzy side of velcro to leather, the fuzzy side of velcro to foam and neoprene rubber cord to foam but that’s all I have personally experienced. If it’s rubber to fabric it just might work. Heat would be the only problem though. A ton of heat can cause the contact cement to delaminate and it could come apart. A jillion degrees baking out in the sun might cause it to fail. Sorry I can’t be more help.
12:25 Heat Gun to unglue: I'm putting a project together. After seeing the heat gun thing I'm now worried that my project, which is going to be in the summer sun - I'm worried that it will come apart. Do you think the Utah summer sun will delaminate my joints? My joints are lapped over each other in a way that sheds the rain. My vinyl is laminated to a wood base.
@@petec6690 I have some prop weapons I made that sit on a windowsill and get direct sunlight for months now and they are still holding solid. And even some that I have stored in a hot storage room for 6 months and they are also still solid. The cement can hold up under extended warmth and even heavy heat - question is how hot and how long I guess. It seems like it would have to be scorching heat to wreck the glue. But I am only working with foam so I can’t be sure about other materials.
Thank you for this, i have just spent half a day struggling with this for the first time, now i understand it I hp to have much better results on my first foam project
Hi Aibhlin! I don’t really use a glue pot for any life extending reasons, I use it for easy access and handling. The pot is pretty heavy so you can use one hand for pulling the brush in and out making it ultra convenient. Just grab the brush with one hand and start applying without needing both hands like with the original can it comes in. And no threads to twist open like the original can. And when you are done using it and you place the brush back inside the pot, the glue that has collected around the top rim will dry creating a nice seal to keep air out until you use it again. And when you’re ready to use it again you just pull the brush out and it breaks the seal and you peel off the dry glue around the rim since the pot is teflon and it’s good as new again. Plus the opening of the pot is large making it way easier to use than the little opening on the can. And the brush is a lot larger too than the tiny brush that comes with the can. I just buy replacement brushes so occasionally I can put a new brush on when one eventually gets all gunked up. LOVE my glue pot, one of the best tools to have if you build a lot!
Hi! I don’t think eye protection is needed for contact cement - but breathing protection probably should. A lot of makers wear a respirator when using cement but I have a large fan next to me that blows air across my work table to keep any fumes away from my face. That seems to work very good.
Hi Dave, Yeah! Be well ventilated, don’t be huffing the fumes, keep your area aired out if possible. Technically it’s best to wear a respirator if you are in a tight space. I had a big garage and a fan standing next to me in order to blow any fumes away from me - plus I would periodically open the garage door to air it out.
Thanks Zoe! We have a more tips videos and a bunch of prop builds if you’re interested : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list. Thanks for watching!
Hi ST! Metal Can: When I pour the cement from the can into the glue pot I clean the glue off the top of the metal can with thinner so no glue remains and it stays clean and does not stick together. I can easily open it the next time. Glue Pot: The glue does on the rim of the glue pot does stick to the glue on the brush handle - but that is how it is designed. It creates a seal so the glue inside doesn’t dry out. But the glue pot is teflon so the each time I open the glue pot to start building I just peel off the dried glue around the top and it is clean again. After I am done building I leave the excess glue around the top and it dries together forming another seal until the next time I build. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
Yeah, the glue pot is great. And if you use your glue pot all day and it keeps opening and letting air inside it can eventually start to thicken the glue a bit. So periodically I add some thinner inside the pot and stir it to keep it smooth. Love the glue pot.
I have a tear in a leather horseback riding saddle that I own. Do you think/know if I could put contact cement in the tear to prevent it from getting larger?
Hi Gianna, I’m not sure, and I wouldn’t want you to ruin something trying. But I can say I have used contact cement to glue 2 pieces of leather together and it worked great! Super strong hold. But I’m not sure about filling a tear with it? If you cemented another piece of leather over the tear ( like a patch ) I think that might hold tight - and that would maybe keep the tear from spreading? But NOT sure. Sorry I couldn’t help more.
So why if you stick two wet pieces together like when you put the plug into the hole it works why bother waiting for it to dry before attaching the pieces?
Hey Jim, You have to wait until both sides of the glue are dry before 2 pieces will stick together, so you normally wait until both pieces are dry and then touch them. But in the case of 2 pieces that have to slide into each other they won’t slide after they dry so you have to slide them when wet and then let them sit until the glue drys them in place.
@@BlackSheepProps Thank you i understand why they had to be wet to slide in but the question was if you can put 2 wet pieces together then let them dry why bother letting them dry then sticking them together.
Ah, I understand. If you put them together while wet they could shift a bit before they dry and stick, or it could stay in place but there can be gaps left in between the 2 pieces that make the contact not complete. If you let them dry and them smoosh them together you are guaranteed of getting total contact. Plus, when you leave them apart and let air hit both parts they dry faster than when you put them together while still wet.
Hi CFC! Indeed! I started out using DAP but learned of Barge and have been on it ever since. Thanks for watching! In case you haven’t sen all our other builds and tips videos here’s the link to our home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under the VIDEOS tab near the upper left for a complete listing.
Hi Milk! I have never used Elmers so I a don’t really know how well it works. And Barge comes with a small brush inside it, but I bought the large glue pot separately because it is very convenient if you will be doing a lot of gluing. The glue pot has a very heavy base making it easy to use with one hand - and the brush comes out without needing to unscrew the top so it is very convenient to use.
Rubber cement is like post-it note adhesive. It is designed to easily separate later. It looks like contact cement and has a similar name, but is essentially the opposite.
Hi XCyclonusX, I leave my brushes in the glue pot. But when using a glue pot - every time you open the pot to use the brush you usually wipe off the extra on the top edge of the pot and it slowly runs back down into the pot. But If you are building all day long, and opening and closing the pot a lot then a lot of air gets in around the top of the pot and the extra glue that you are constantly wiping off on the top edge can start to dry and get sort of sticky and clumpy and then the brush will start to get a bit sticky and clumpy too. But I learned a trick from some of the old timers that work with leather and contact cement - I pour some thinner into the pot and stir it up with a wooden stir stick so it thins the glue back to a more watery condition so it will spread much smoother. It works great! But I also buy several extra brush attachments so periodically I just change the brush out for a new one. Thanks for watching! And by the way, if you haven’t seen our other cool tips videos and builds I am attaching the link to our channels home page so you can check them out. Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS. th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Hi JG! Hmm, I’ve never tried it? I tried gluing plastic to plastic with contact cement but it did nothing. And I’ve glued eva foam to leather and it was FANTASTIC! And leather to leather is fantastic. My guess is it doesn’t really work on plastic. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
I've been using this completely wrong. This was really thorough. Watched the entire thing. Problem is that somehow spilled over my desk and got on a few objects. Aside from heat is there any other way to remove it? Goo Off, Acetone, etc?
Hi D86, Glad it was helpful! I build props out of EVA Foam and thinner is MAGIC! It easily separate two pieces in a second! In my experience thinner is kryptonite to contact cement. I use Bestine Rubber Cement Thinner. I buy it from Dick Blick art supply.
Hi, Steve. I'm trying to wrap my metal lightsaber hilt with braided leather cord. I'm told contact cement is my best option for adhesive. My concern is that I'm using leather cord and there's no "side" to put the cement on unlike a leather strap. Will it stick to my gloves while I'm wrapping? I'd assume not since there's no cement on my gloves. And, I guess I should start wrapping soon after applying so I have a little bit of wiggle room to adjust the leather much like your button fitting demonstration, right? Then, just let it sit and let it bond. Sound good? Sorry, I'm a novice. Thanks.
Hi Jack, First of all, thanks for watching! I have attached neoprene rubber cord on several props and because it’s thin and round it doesn’t have a side - so I have used super glue and I laid a thin line of glue down and then laid the neoprene cord on it and it works great! It’s a bit more time consuming though because you have to go a little bit at a time and glue and wrap as you go - glue a portion and wrap cord, glue a bit more wrap more cord, glue wrap, etc. until you complete the entire hilt. But it works pretty good. I also think you probably could still use contact cement even though the leather cord doesn’t have a side. But for this you might have to cut your overall cord length into shorter segments and attach them one after the next to simulate one long cord. This way you aren’t trying to wrangle a long piece of glued cord. As one segment is wrapped a couple times ( using a length that’s you are comfortable handling while it’s glued ) around the hilt then you could probably just start the next piece right off the end of the last piece and it could work. No one will probably even be able to see where one ends and another begins once you have the entire hilt wrapped. Hope one of these helps. May the force be with you! And in case you haven’t been to our channels home page, we have a bunch of cool builds and tips videos there. Here’s the link in case you’d like to check them out : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the top. Thanks again Jack!
Why would you use an adhesive for fabric, leather, foam, etc - on a roof? You do know there's dozens of specific products for roofs right? Holy crap the questions in this comment section are off the chain.
Hey Steve! Thanks man! Glad you liked it. Not sure if you‘ve seen all our other builds and tips videos - in case you haven’t and you’d like to here’s the link to our channel’s home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops Just click VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list. Thanks again!
Hi JR! I have only used contact cement to attach leather to foam. It works great on leather but I don’t know about fabric? Sorry I can’t be more help on this one.
Because I can’t find this answer anywhere: how long does it normally take for Contant Cement fumes to stop.. fuming? In this case I’m using Master’s brand CC, and though I took all necessary precautions and my pieces are already joined, it’s a part of a project that I really want to get a move on with but I don’t want to rush things if the fumes are still dangerous
I’m not totally sure about the fume time? But I always just followed the simplest rule of not using contact cement without a fan blowing the fumes away from my face, and without working in a large area, and without periodically opening the garage door to air out. Safety seemed to only be an issue during the applying of the glue while it is open and fumes are present. But once pieces are joined I don’t think there is an issue any longer. I never noticed any fumes once pieces were attached? And I also have not heard any of the other large builders mention any issues with fumes once pieces are attached. Hope that helps.
Hi, I am sorry but I do not give my personal email. We can communicate here through the channel if you like. I would be happy to answer any questions you have. :)
Thanks, particularly, for showing the results - when you do things the wrong way! Many others would just warn you, not, to do some, particular, thing, but you actually demonstrate what happens, when you do. Very good stuff.
Thanks a lot Dale, glad it’s helping folks out a bit.
I use contact cement to fix my fishing waders if I just have a small hole. I usually buy the tube cement, so I can just squeeze it on around the damaged area and put it on kind of thick. That's it. no patch or anything is necessary. If I actually get a tear, I can use a piece of net drywall tape and make 2 layers, so that I am sure the netting is covered. You need to scuff up the rubber first, and making a circle with a pen or marker helps you to make sure you are covering the right spot. I lay them down flat in a back room overnight, and the glue is hard next morning. It remains just a little bit flexible, which is what you need with waders. It is not good looking, but the fish don't seem to mind, and it is very quick and easy.
Great vid. Very informative. Thank you.
Hey Jeff!
Thanks dude! Glad you like it!
Here’s the link to our channel’s homepage in case you haven’t seen all our other videos :
th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under the VIDEOS tab at the upper left for a complete list of our build videos and tips videos.
Thanks again!
10:45 - outline your cement zone with painters tape. If you go over the edge you're only going over the tape. Then after applying you can pull the tape off. You've gotten cement to the limits of what you wanted and not beyond. You can even do it without a sharpie.
Pete that’s a great tip!!!
great video, thanks for sharing!
Hey! Thanks a lot! And thanks for watching. We have a lot more videos on prop making and the tips and tools involved. In case you didn’t know, here is the link to our channels home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Thanks again!
I LOVE CONTACT CEMENT FUMES
Is this different than contact adhesive?
Not sure. It might be? The fact that it’s called “contact” makes me think it works the same way, but I can’t be positive. Sorry I can’t be more help. Maybe look up a video on youtube for contact adhesive to be sure.
Great tips! thank you
Hi Hero,
The squeeze bottle is made by BENECREAT and I think they were 4 Ounce bottles. You can find them on Amazon. I still haven’t tried using my contact cement with the squeeze bottle yet but at some point I will! Good luck! And have fun! And in case you haven’t seen all of our other tips videos and builds, here is the link to our channel’s home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the upper left of the page to find a complete list of our videos.
@@BlackSheepProps How would you get it in the squeeze bottle? It's so gloppy and runny..Do you use a funnel to get it in the small squeeze bottles? Thanks
Yeah, I think a funnel should work.
Black Sheep Props Having a very tough time with Barge cement. I’ve already had to get thinner to make it less gloppy but it gets all over the place and I’m not getting a good bond.The quart size built-in brush is extremely messy and does not allow for easy application on the surface of the foam
Hi Hero,
I have learned a lot about handling my contact cement over the past year or so, here’s what I learned that really helped me.
I have to regularly add thinner to keep my Barge nice and thin. I do not use the brush that comes in the quart - I bought a glue pot to hold my cement - which is awesome and it comes with a nice brush that is replaceable. But even with a glue pot, if I am doing a lot of glueing on a prop and the lid to my glue pot is being opened for long periods of time I have to do more thinning because the air gets into the glue pot if the lid is open a lot. I also periodically replace the brush end in my glue pot. And when I do add thinner to my cement I also clean out the brush in the glue pot as well - nice to keep everything smooth and clean and not gloppy. Keeping it all clean is SUPER important I learned. Try getting a glue pot - it’s been great. On Amazon search for an ATCO Cement Keeper. Leather repair guys use it for all their work - it’s great if you plan on doing a lot of builds. Hope that helps.
Is the Barge TF Cement just as good as the original red/yellow can?
I really don’t know I don’t build anymore and the one I used was the red and yellow one.
what do you call the contact cement container you are using? thank you.
Hi! It is called a GLUE POT or a CEMENT KEEPER. My glue pot is made by ATCO. You can buy it online at several different places.
It is a fantastic thing to use with your contact cement.
Great video! What is the music you use as your intro?
Hi Paul!
Since you can’t use copyrighted music in a video I swam through a bunch of different royalty free sites to find just the one I wanted.
It lists the track as “4x4 Off Road”.
I'm interested in the tee shirt. Where did you get it?
Yeah, cool shirt. You can find them at a lot of places online.
@@BlackSheepProps thank you, that narrows it down.
sirr, follower from ph🇵🇭
where i can buy barge cement?
Hi Leopold,
Many places online sell Barge. I know Amazon does. And a lot of leather companies do as well.
What would work best for thinning Barge: xylene, naptha, mineral spirits, or MEK substitute?
Hi PE,
I use BESTINE Rubber Cement Thinner. And don’t use too much or it can cause the glue to delaminate. Use just enough to stir it up and get it a bit thinner.
Ask th manufacturer
@@x.y.8581 The manufacturers recommend only their own overpriced thinner. I have found that xylene works best when MEK is not available. MEK substitute does not work.
Best to avoid allowing glue to thicken by keeping can closed as much as possible. If too thick just discard and get a new can.
@@x.y.8581 That's the issue. I can't bring myself to dump a gallon of old Barge. A pint of a random brand from a hardware store, no problem, but not Barge. I will never buy Barge again, as I've moved on to a water-based contact adhesive. But I still need to use up the Barge I have on hand.
does this work to glue inner tubing?
I don’t know. Sorry.
If you think contact cement is cool, JB Weld will blow your mind.
Hi Dasteufelhund!
Wow! I watched a video on JB Weld - crazy awesome! Looks SUPER crazy strong.
JB Weld is for metal
how call the glue dispenser ?
Hi Rick,
The dispenser is called a GLUE POT or a CEMENT KEEPER. The brand I use is the ATCO CEMENT KEEPER.
Thanks for the good info. And don't say heigth anymore.
I've used contact cements for close to 50 years. If you want stronger bonds, then let your surfaces to be joined cure for all day, or overnight, then reactivate the cement with your heat gun, then join your substrates, and press until the product has cooled.
Thank you very, very much for the most informative video on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing the knowledge 😃
Hi Zoila,
Wow! You are too kind. Thanks! Glad it helped. Contact cement is totally awesome.
In case you haven’t seen all the other videos on our channel, here is the link to the channels home page so you can check them out : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Thanks again!
I have been using contact cement wrong all my life... Thanks for this video.
OH NO!
Well I’m glad the video helped!
In case you didn’t know we have a lot of other tips videos and builds if you are interested : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list.
Me to.
But how does it ACTUALLY work??
And instead of leaving it to dry for 5 minutes, or as my can says: 20 min, what if you left it for a week or a year?
Would it still stick when the 2 items are brought in contact?
I guess I could do an experiment. But I'm impatient.
Hmm, good questions. I can’t really say since I only used it within 2 or 3 minutes before I attached two pieces.
Best 'how to' contact cement video I've seen. Thank you.
Very kind, thanks! Glad it was helpful!
08:30 Another option to assemble these kinds of assemblies is to apply isopropyl alcohol to the cement before assembling. Source: Honda handgrip cement installation instructions ( 08F69-MFY-1000-91 )
Loved your tutorial. Been using contact cement for 40 years. I learned two valuable lessons about putting the pieces together while wet, and using heat gun to undo the parts. Can I use acetone to thin contact cement (Dap weldwood brand).? Thank you for your lesson in the you tube classroom, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Hey! Glad the video helped. Yeah, I periodically use small amounts of thinner to make my cement less thick so it spreads easier. But not too much or it will cause the cement to separate and it gets weird.
Barge cement is like rocking 🐎💩..you can't get it in the UK.. great video BTW
Thanks! Yeah, Barge is amazing.
Back in the 60's, you had to have a license to buy Barge cement. Other contact cements, not. I wonder if "Barge" changed their formulae or if the powers that be just got more reasonable.
Thanks for the video! I have a few questions:
1. Is contact cement the same as rubber cement?
2. Although you had demonstrated that the cement would not bond when 'wet', but what happens if you apply the cement on two pieces and then press the two pieces together, cement onto cement, but then let it sit for a long time (hours) such that the cement dries? Would they bond?
3. You had also demonstrated that if only one piece has the cement, you cannot bond two pieces together. Again, what if you do give the pieces enough time for the cement to dry? Would they bond?
Hi PX,
1. Not really, contact cement really only sticks to other contact cement. It’s a two part thing. Dry cement sticks to dry cement unlike rubber cement when rubber cement can be applied to just one piece and it can stick to something.
2. Actually yes. A bunch of my builds require sliding a piece of foam into a super tight area that requires two pieces of foam to rub together as I’m putting them in place which could never happen once the cement is dry - but if both pieces are wet and I slide them in it will eventually dry and they will stick together. Check out my video for the arm cannon, at 7:50 of Arm Cannon Part 1 I show that. Apparently the solvent inside the contact cement evaporates and they will stick.
3. Probably. Because the wet cement from the one piece would rub on the other piece and they would stick. But you would have to let the two pieces sit there for a while until they dried and one of the pieces could move a bit before it dries? If you cemented both pieces and waited for both to dry then you will guarantee that they stick right where you want them to.
@@BlackSheepProps Thanks. You had been very helpful.
@@BlackSheepProps is rubber cement just as strong as contact cement?
Hi Phileas,
No, rubber cement is different.
Yes, wet on wet will eventually stick once they dry. Sometimes I need to stick a wood dowel into a cavity in my foam so I will coat the dowel with wet cement and then I will slide it into the cavity so it rubs onto the inside walls of the cavity - and after a few minutes the solvent content will evaporate and they will be stuck together. Best way though is to coat 2 pieces, let them dry and then stick them.
🌟Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you very much!
Just in the nik-o-time!
My pleasure! Glad it helped when you needed it! In case you haven’t been to our channels home page, here’s the link. We have a bunch of cool tips videos and prop builds you might want to check out.
th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just check under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the top.
Thanks for watching!
Underrated video. I had some questions regarding contact cement since I've never used this stuff and this video was exactly what I was looking for. Very informative.
Thanks Jessee, glad it helped!
Hi there, for a porous surface like wood, should I first put a layer on it , wait half an hour, then re apply? Also how long is it ok to route the edges (laminate on wood)?
Hi Christopher! Unfortunately I only work with EVA Foam when I build my props. I have never used wood or used contact cement on wood, sorry I can’t help you with your question.
Actually I do periodically use a wood dowel inside my foam to give it stability. I have contact cemented a piece of foam to a wood dowel so I know it works great on wood in that case - but I have never tried to cement wood to wood.
Im just trying this for the first time, im trying to make concrete molds for firepit tops using foam blue board, found this from a smokless firepit video, but he had it in like a propane tank with hose and spray gun, you said you used this often, maybe try that out, not sure pros and cons, just like learning and sharing knowledge
Hey James!
If the issue is about contact cementing the blue foam together to create a mold, it should work. Contact cement holds super strong foam on foam. Maybe layer up the foam boards so its really thick - that way when you cement all the blue foam walls together to make your mold there will be a wider contact area where you are sticking them together.
May the force be with you.
Excellent demonstration covering a variety of do's and don'ts. Question: There's a lad in another video who suggested using a heat gun to quicken the drying process of the edges just glued, if in a hurry; therefore, is this suggested a don't?
Hi Timothy,
I have seen a lot of builders speed up the drying time before they attach 2 pieces by using a bit of heat. Most of the time using a blow dryer so it helps the contact cement dry faster before they stick the pieces together. When your layer of glue is applied smooth and not too thick it dry pretty fast. Once in a while if I have applied my cement too heavy and it’s a bit too wet, I might hold it in front of a regular fan for a minute to help it dry quicker. But most of the time it drys pretty quick on it’s own. Thanks for watching! Here’s the link to our channels homepage in case you haven’t seen our other videos : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
@@BlackSheepProps Thank you Sir for your response... and speedily at that!
Great video. I just used this stuff for the first time to attach a bracket with a rubber base onto the underside of my car dash. I followed the directions which said to wait 10 minutes before putting the parts together and 24 hours before putting a load on it. The fix worked very well. Now I know why.
Awesome! Glad the video helped.
Great video. Clear, concise, very little gabbing, tons of info, and no annoying background music. Question: If I use the contact cement for a sculpture and sit it in the hot sun on a daily basis, will the glue fail?
Thanks!
I have heard cosplayers wearing their foam stuff for too long in the heat can cause the glue to fail. But I’ve never done it. I do know too much heat from the heat gun can cause the glue to delaminate and come apart. So I’d watch out with the heat.
The heavenly heavy hellish gum speculatively describe because giraffe densply steer atop a comfortable cornet. quiet, puzzled police
Also those gloves should be plastic not latex because exposure to latex can cause a latex allergy that can be deadly.Even of you don't think you have a latex allergy because people can develop a latex allergy at any time.
Thanks for the video. I just redid the foam in my goalie mask and this helped a ton. Great tip with using scrap foam for spreading it
Awesome! And I’m super glad my tips helped on a goalie mask!!!! Yeeaah!
thanks for sharing bro
No problem dude, glad it was helpful!
i was using it like regular glue, this helped me out so much lmao, thank you
How about the vulcanizing version of contact cement?
To cover relatively large areas (for example, two 14"x14" surfaces) in an appropriate amount of time (to avoid excessive drying), should the contact cement be rolled on? And if so, how likely is it of applying too thick a coating by rolling? Any pointers for rolling on contact cement would be greatly appreciated!
Hi, I have covered large areas by pouring the cement out in a puddle and using a large throw away brush to paint the entire surface fairly quickly. It takes several minutes to begin drying and even after it is dry it will still make contact with another surface with dry cement on it. That’s actually how contact cement works on all of my builds - coat 2 pieces and let them both fully dry and then they will stick together.
Thx for the video, I’m going to adhere a tire and a $1 pair of sandals together. Your video was the most simplistic on eBay. 👍🏼
Cool! Thanks!
Is English your second language?
Yes, I’m Klingon.
I bought some contact cement about 2-3 weeks ago, and it’s already fully dried despite being sealed when I’m not using it. Is there any way to revert it back to a liquid once it’s fully dried?
Hi Louise!
Totally know the feeling!
I use an ATCO glue pot (or cement keeper) and it has a large opening at the top so when I am using it all day it repeatedly gets opened and closed and can start to get thick after one day of being exposed to tons of air, so what I regularly do is pour in some thinner and stir it up and it thins it out back into a much more smooth and watery consistency.
Don’t go too crazy though, just pour a bit in and stir it. If it looks like it still needs to be thinner then add a bit more and just keep adding until it’s a thin as you want it.
Gotta have thinner always on hand to keep your glue smooth.
I use Bestine Rubber Cement Thinner. Been great for me!
Black Sheep Props Thank you so much!!
I thought I was gonna have to buy some we contact cement.
Would paint thinner work or is there a specific type of thinner for contact cement?
Each brand of contact cement usually sells it’s own thinner but I have always bought BESTINE THINNER. It has worked great for me.
Exactly what i need today. My rubberized insulation keeps falling
Is contact cement and rubber cement the same thing? Is that why you can use Bestine Rubber Cement thinner?
They are more like Batman's original gloves... :)
Can contact cement, re activated if you leave for a couple of hours being separated.
Hi Roseller,
I have never tried that, I am not sure? You can probably just apply more contact cement over the cement that has dried.
Thanks for watching! Here is the link to our home page in case you haven’t seen all of our other tips videos and builds.
th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Roseller Castillo yea it does just apply heat and bond both sides and watch it stick
I need to reattach half of my shoe sole to a shoe. Would shoe goo be good enough or would barge be better. I'm looking for economical yet quality. (I don't have much money.)
Hi! Sorry, but I’m not sure. I use contact cement on eva foam, making foam props so I can’t answer concerning shoes.
Again, sorry. But I have seen tons of shoe repair folks using contact cement - seems like it’s their go-to glue?
Great video💯👍
Wish I'd seen this last night before attempting my stormtrooper helmet
Great video! Thank you for your advise
No problem Julie! Glad it was helpful.
I help my dad sometimes since he’s been doing shoe repair for a long time, and I didn’t know what this was called until now. I was realizing too that he would let the glue dry, then he would attack the sole to the shoe and after that he would hammer the sole to the shoe to make sure it’s intact. I’m also learning how to shoe shine, dye animal skin boots (don’t know what they’re called) to a different color.
That sounds cool. Sounds like you can pick up a lot of contact cement tips from your dad! Cool!
I have a question im trying to duplicate a water fan inner liner the one that came with over time crack all up so im trying to use rubber will contact cement work for the job im trying to build?
I’m sorry but I only use contact cement on foam for my prop building, not really sure about your question. Sorry.
I would call the number for your brand of contact cement, I’m sure they probably have some there who could answer that. Good luck.
Do you know How long does it last, unused in the can? (I only need a little bit for my 1st project)
Hi Andre,
As long as the can is sealed it lasts a long time. I pour some into my glue pot and reseal the can until I need to pour more into my glue pot so the contact cement sits for quite a while on the shelf in my garage until I need to pour more into the glue pot.
And every time I re-open the contact cement can the contents are still good. Should last a long time.
Using that fan, doesn't it make your contact cement dry faster, also thickening it ?
Hi! Not really, it’s about 5 or 6 feet away so it’s a gentle breeze. Drying faster is actually good - it’s a pain in the butt waiting the 4 or 5 minutes before you can stick two pieces together. I have never experienced the fan breeze thickening it before. Opening the cement keeper ( some call it a glue pot ) regularly can let air into the pot and it can start to thicken the glue but I pour a small amount of thinner into it periodically and stir it up and it helps reliquify it .
Can this work for a cement plaque to a cement wall ? Thank you.
Hello,
I do not know. I’m sorry but I only use contact cement for making EVA foam props.
If I am using contact cement (Barge) for patches on a leather jacket, how long do I wait for it to dry before connecting them together? And iz this a good method when sewing is not an option? Thx
Hi Nicki,
I usually work with foam but I have used leather a couple times. Two pieces of leather have stayed together since I stuck them - still strong! Not sure which would be stronger since I have never sewn before? But the contact cement is crazy strong. As far as drying goes, just wait till the shiny wet look is gone, and both pieces are dry to the touch and then they will bond together.
@@BlackSheepProps I appreciate your response. I used contact cement so far itz working thx
Will it work to glue back the decorative rubber trim around window inside of car?
Hi TF,
Not sure? I have used it to cement foam to leather, leather to leather, the fuzzy side of velcro to leather, the fuzzy side of velcro to foam and neoprene rubber cord to foam but that’s all I have personally experienced.
If it’s rubber to fabric it just might work. Heat would be the only problem though. A ton of heat can cause the contact cement to delaminate and it could come apart.
A jillion degrees baking out in the sun might cause it to fail.
Sorry I can’t be more help.
is there any other way to take pieces apart other then the heat gun ?
Not that I know of. Heat is the only thing I have ever been able to do it with.
12:25 Heat Gun to unglue: I'm putting a project together. After seeing the heat gun thing I'm now worried that my project, which is going to be in the summer sun - I'm worried that it will come apart. Do you think the Utah summer sun will delaminate my joints? My joints are lapped over each other in a way that sheds the rain. My vinyl is laminated to a wood base.
Not sure about laminate and wood - I’ve only worked with foam. But my hot garage has caused contact cement to come apart on me.
@@BlackSheepProps That's not good. My project sits in direct sun for much of the afternoon.
@@petec6690 I have some prop weapons I made that sit on a windowsill and get direct sunlight for months now and they are still holding solid. And even some that I have stored in a hot storage room for 6 months and they are also still solid. The cement can hold up under extended warmth and even heavy heat - question is how hot and how long I guess. It seems like it would have to be scorching heat to wreck the glue. But I am only working with foam so I can’t be sure about other materials.
Thank you for this, i have just spent half a day struggling with this for the first time, now i understand it I hp to have much better results on my first foam project
Does a glue pot really extend the life of contact cement to a considerable degree?
Hi Aibhlin! I don’t really use a glue pot for any life extending reasons, I use it for easy access and handling. The pot is pretty heavy so you can use one hand for pulling the brush in and out making it ultra convenient. Just grab the brush with one hand and start applying without needing both hands like with the original can it comes in. And no threads to twist open like the original can. And when you are done using it and you place the brush back inside the pot, the glue that has collected around the top rim will dry creating a nice seal to keep air out until you use it again. And when you’re ready to use it again you just pull the brush out and it breaks the seal and you peel off the dry glue around the rim since the pot is teflon and it’s good as new again. Plus the opening of the pot is large making it way easier to use than the little opening on the can. And the brush is a lot larger too than the tiny brush that comes with the can. I just buy replacement brushes so occasionally I can put a new brush on when one eventually gets all gunked up. LOVE my glue pot, one of the best tools to have if you build a lot!
Should I wear eye protection and if I should what do I wear?
Hi! I don’t think eye protection is needed for contact cement - but breathing protection probably should. A lot of makers wear a respirator when using cement but I have a large fan next to me that blows air across my work table to keep any fumes away from my face. That seems to work very good.
Praise the lard!🤣👍🏼
Thank you for video. My take away is to be safe.
Hi Dave,
Yeah! Be well ventilated, don’t be huffing the fumes, keep your area aired out if possible.
Technically it’s best to wear a respirator if you are in a tight space. I had a big garage and a fan standing next to me in order to blow any fumes away from me - plus I would periodically open the garage door to air it out.
Enlightend 😁✨✨✨✨
Thanks Zoe!
We have a more tips videos and a bunch of prop builds if you’re interested : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list.
Thanks for watching!
I have the exact heat gun!
Very helpful thx!!
Great video! Thanks.
Vai praice koto
Can the glue be use mass production of shoes?
Hi,
I do not know, I do not make shoes. Sorry I can not be more help.
Awesome video! Thank you for teaching us!
No problem! I am so glad it was helpful!!
Interesting glue.
Why does your cement brush cum cap not adhere to the container or glue can after some time? Is the cement strong?
Hi ST!
Metal Can:
When I pour the cement from the can into the glue pot I clean the glue off the top of the metal can with thinner so no glue remains and it stays clean and does not stick together. I can easily open it the next time.
Glue Pot:
The glue does on the rim of the glue pot does stick to the glue on the brush handle - but that is how it is designed. It creates a seal so the glue inside doesn’t dry out. But the glue pot is teflon so the each time I open the glue pot to start building I just peel off the dried glue around the top and it is clean again. After I am done building I leave the excess glue around the top and it dries together forming another seal until the next time I build.
I hope that helps!
Thanks for watching!
@@BlackSheepProps I see. Its teflon. Nothing sticks to teflon or silicone except themselves. Thanks! Subbed!
Yeah, the glue pot is great. And if you use your glue pot all day and it keeps opening and letting air inside it can eventually start to thicken the glue a bit. So periodically I add some thinner inside the pot and stir it to keep it smooth.
Love the glue pot.
I Love the T shirt God Bless you Brother.
Thanks!
I have a tear in a leather horseback riding saddle that I own. Do you think/know if I could put contact cement in the tear to prevent it from getting larger?
Hi Gianna,
I’m not sure, and I wouldn’t want you to ruin something trying. But I can say I have used contact cement to glue 2 pieces of leather together and it worked great! Super strong hold. But I’m not sure about filling a tear with it? If you cemented another piece of leather over the tear ( like a patch ) I think that might hold tight - and that would maybe keep the tear from spreading? But NOT sure.
Sorry I couldn’t help more.
Black Sheep Props I understand, thanks for the advice and help though!
Maybe with a flat overlay to bond the two sides of the tear.
So why if you stick two wet pieces together like when you put the plug into the hole it works why bother waiting for it to dry before attaching the pieces?
Hey Jim,
You have to wait until both sides of the glue are dry before 2 pieces will stick together, so you normally wait until both pieces are dry and then touch them. But in the case of 2 pieces that have to slide into each other they won’t slide after they dry so you have to slide them when wet and then let them sit until the glue drys them in place.
@@BlackSheepProps Thank you i understand why they had to be wet to slide in but the question was if you can put 2 wet pieces together then let them dry why bother letting them dry then sticking them together.
Ah, I understand.
If you put them together while wet they could shift a bit before they dry and stick, or it could stay in place but there can be gaps left in between the 2 pieces that make the contact not complete. If you let them dry and them smoosh them together you are guaranteed of getting total contact. Plus, when you leave them apart and let air hit both parts they dry faster than when you put them together while still wet.
@@BlackSheepProps Thank you
Love
Barge is not even like most contact cement it is the real deal.
Hi CFC! Indeed! I started out using DAP but learned of Barge and have been on it ever since.
Thanks for watching!
In case you haven’t sen all our other builds and tips videos here’s the link to our home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under the VIDEOS tab near the upper left for a complete listing.
Barge is a hormone disruptor and women shouldn't use if they plan to become pregnant
Can you use contact cement on Cork ?
I’m not sure? I only work with foam. And a tiny bit of leather.
Will elemers rubber cement work as well and be as strong? Also does that brush thing come with the barge contact cement?
Hi Milk!
I have never used Elmers so I a don’t really know how well it works. And Barge comes with a small brush inside it, but I bought the large glue pot separately because it is very convenient if you will be doing a lot of gluing. The glue pot has a very heavy base making it easy to use with one hand - and the brush comes out without needing to unscrew the top so it is very convenient to use.
Rubber cement is like post-it note adhesive. It is designed to easily separate later. It looks like contact cement and has a similar name, but is essentially the opposite.
Thank you I hope your videos allow me to become a prop pro!!
Once you begin building it gets very easy - stick with it and you will be doing great in no time.
Do you clean your glue brushes after you're done or do you just leave then in the pot?
Hi XCyclonusX,
I leave my brushes in the glue pot. But when using a glue pot - every time you open the pot to use the brush you usually wipe off the extra on the top edge of the pot and it slowly runs back down into the pot. But If you are building all day long, and opening and closing the pot a lot then a lot of air gets in around the top of the pot and the extra glue that you are constantly wiping off on the top edge can start to dry and get sort of sticky and clumpy and then the brush will start to get a bit sticky and clumpy too.
But I learned a trick from some of the old timers that work with leather and contact cement - I pour some thinner into the pot and stir it up with a wooden stir stick so it thins the glue back to a more watery condition so it will spread much smoother. It works great! But I also buy several extra brush attachments so periodically I just change the brush out for a new one.
Thanks for watching! And by the way, if you haven’t seen our other cool tips videos and builds I am attaching the link to our channels home page so you can check them out. Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS.
th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
good to use for leather to plastic?
Hi JG!
Hmm, I’ve never tried it? I tried gluing plastic to plastic with contact cement but it did nothing.
And I’ve glued eva foam to leather and it was FANTASTIC! And leather to leather is fantastic.
My guess is it doesn’t really work on plastic.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Thank you
No problem, glad it was helpful!
I've been using this completely wrong.
This was really thorough. Watched the entire thing. Problem is that somehow spilled over my desk and got on a few objects. Aside from heat is there any other way to remove it? Goo Off, Acetone, etc?
Hi D86,
Glad it was helpful! I build props out of EVA Foam and thinner is MAGIC! It easily separate two pieces in a second! In my experience thinner is kryptonite to contact cement. I use Bestine Rubber Cement Thinner. I buy it from Dick Blick art supply.
@@BlackSheepProps Thanks for the quick response! I will certainly give that a try. Thanks again for your in depth video!
Hi, Steve. I'm trying to wrap my metal lightsaber hilt with braided leather cord. I'm told contact cement is my best option for adhesive. My concern is that I'm using leather cord and there's no "side" to put the cement on unlike a leather strap. Will it stick to my gloves while I'm wrapping? I'd assume not since there's no cement on my gloves. And, I guess I should start wrapping soon after applying so I have a little bit of wiggle room to adjust the leather much like your button fitting demonstration, right? Then, just let it sit and let it bond. Sound good? Sorry, I'm a novice. Thanks.
Hi Jack, First of all, thanks for watching! I have attached neoprene rubber cord on several props and because it’s thin and round it doesn’t have a side - so I have used super glue and I laid a thin line of glue down and then laid the neoprene cord on it and it works great! It’s a bit more time consuming though because you have to go a little bit at a time and glue and wrap as you go - glue a portion and wrap cord, glue a bit more wrap more cord, glue wrap, etc. until you complete the entire hilt. But it works pretty good.
I also think you probably could still use contact cement even though the leather cord doesn’t have a side. But for this you might have to cut your overall cord length into shorter segments and attach them one after the next to simulate one long cord. This way you aren’t trying to wrangle a long piece of glued cord. As one segment is wrapped a couple times ( using a length that’s you are comfortable handling while it’s glued ) around the hilt then you could probably just start the next piece right off the end of the last piece and it could work. No one will probably even be able to see where one ends and another begins once you have the entire hilt wrapped.
Hope one of these helps.
May the force be with you!
And in case you haven’t been to our channels home page, we have a bunch of cool builds and tips videos there. Here’s the link in case you’d like to check them out : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just look under VIDEOS and PLAYLISTS at the top.
Thanks again Jack!
@@BlackSheepProps Thanks for all the tips. I'll definitely be checking out your other videos soon.
Can i used for roof work
I’m sorry, I do not know. I only use contact cement for foam props.
Why would you use an adhesive for fabric, leather, foam, etc - on a roof? You do know there's dozens of specific products for roofs right?
Holy crap the questions in this comment section are off the chain.
Thank you!😎
No problem Ferdinand, I’m glad it was helpful!
Awesome video
Hey Steve! Thanks man! Glad you liked it.
Not sure if you‘ve seen all our other builds and tips videos - in case you haven’t and you’d like to here’s the link to our channel’s home page : th-cam.com/users/blacksheepprops
Just click VIDEOS near the upper left for a complete list.
Thanks again!
Muy cool
Hi Teo!
Thank you!
This was super helpful. Thank you
Hi Franky, I am so glad it helped!
Will this work to glue fabric onto a compression shirt? Thnx , if not any pointers on what you think is the strongest best glue for fabrics?
Hi JR!
I have only used contact cement to attach leather to foam. It works great on leather but I don’t know about fabric?
Sorry I can’t be more help on this one.
Because I can’t find this answer anywhere: how long does it normally take for Contant Cement fumes to stop.. fuming? In this case I’m using Master’s brand CC, and though I took all necessary precautions and my pieces are already joined, it’s a part of a project that I really want to get a move on with but I don’t want to rush things if the fumes are still dangerous
I’m not totally sure about the fume time? But I always just followed the simplest rule of not using contact cement without a fan blowing the fumes away from my face, and without working in a large area, and without periodically opening the garage door to air out. Safety seemed to only be an issue during the applying of the glue while it is open and fumes are present. But once pieces are joined I don’t think there is an issue any longer. I never noticed any fumes once pieces were attached? And I also have not heard any of the other large builders mention any issues with fumes once pieces are attached. Hope that helps.
Please, woud you share your email Mr. Steve
Hi,
I am sorry but I do not give my personal email. We can communicate here through the channel if you like. I would be happy to answer any questions you have. :)
It is about, that you could prepare some pieces, and we structure the form to pay for them, and receive them by a shipping company
It is about, that you could prepare some pieces and we structure the form, to pay for them and receive them by a shipping company
I actually do not build any longer. When I quit building I posted a video to say goodbye to everyone.
th-cam.com/video/oPrfNy0I0eU/w-d-xo.html