For the past few years I’ve been sowing seeds in clear plastic egg cartons that you sometimes see in the market. They’re perfect little enclosed environments and my success rate is in the high 90s. Once they’re ready to step up, I use plastic yogurt cups that I save all year. Unless one is sowing thousands of seeds, I don’t see the point in buying pricey specialized seed trays and liners and heat mats. I have no illusions that I’m saving the planet, but I prefer to reuse when I can!
That would work well. I buy the trays/six-packs once every 2-3 years. I just always find myself testing new species, and it is just one less job I need to do to prepare for sowing!
This is the most well done video ive been able to find. Effeciently communicated valuable information and very clear and concise and multiple techniques. Great video. Thank you for sharing.. i like your style.
You are welcome! I thought people would find it helpful. I have way more footage than I included. But those are pretty representative and show just how fast seedlings will grow given enough space.
Thanks so much for this very timely video. I tried winter sowing for the first time this year and so far have had great germination rates on most plants. I was shocked, however, at how heavily I had over seeded some (foxgloves, cardinal flower, pansies). Now I have a game plan on how to proceed.
Thank you Callie - I'm glad you found it helpful. I wanted to make sure that I got this video out by March! It is amazing sometimes how heavily you sow. But the thing is, I've foraged and bought seed that just wouldn't germinate, or had low germination rates. You can always thin, then separate later. I just don't want to waste all that cold stratification time.
I just started picking up gardening recently, and I've been so afraid of killing my seedlings by repotting them wrong! Thank you so much for the tutorial, I will definetly use it❤
do you have pictures by chance? I am doing that now but just put seeds into one container. (not cells). They germinated and are all about and inch and 1/2 tall. There is an abundance of them and trying to figure out my next steps!
Another excellent video from you full of much needed information! I bought some 3 oz Dixi cups for my seedlings' first home from their winter sowing. When they're ready for their permanent location all I'll have to do is tear the bottom of the cup off and make slits on the sides so the roots have room to grow. Being made of paper, the cups should just compost. That way they only have to be transplanted the one time. This is an experiment for me, and I hope it works.
Thank you Nana - that could work very well. I would like to hear the results. But I think your idea will work well. I have found that if I let the plant grow long enough, the roots will fill out and it is pretty easy to remove a single plant w/ roots & soil altogether. But your idea would probably allow you to transplant single plants much earlier.
@@growitbuildit You said "I'm trying to plant this in my lawn, believe it or not" meaning your self-heal. How did that work out? I'm thinking of planting some native seedlings in the lawn with maybe a little mulch around them. If it works, eventually the whole lawn will be gone! It seems like it might be easier than putting down cardboard and mulch. And the wife won't notice as the lawn slowly disappears.
@@davidevans4565 It has worked 'ok'. I'm trying to get plants that can intermingle with the lawn, and survive the mower. So far, it works if there is enough shade. If there is too much sun, violets and self-heal won't make it. But, I'm going to keep trying, as Self-heal self-seeds quite a bit in the garden where it is located. So I have a long supply.
What a great video! Thank you for sharing all of these ideas for different winter-sown scenarios. I watched this one last fall as I was considering winter sowing for the first time, and re-watched just now since my winter sowing was successful and I'll be separating seedlings soon. I love your blog and videos - thank you! 😊
I am coming out of winter sowing also with 12 milk jug of flowering plant. Every jug has great result except my gerbera daisies but they took longer last year outside the milk jugs.This really has helped me. My question has been when showed i start to replant them. Thank for this video!!
Great video, I sowed all my carrots and beets and unfortunately had rare torrential downpour the next day and they were all washed away to the end of my bed but are growing in clumps so I was wondering best way to thin out. I’m going to try the fork and start spreading them out. We have had a weird rainy season. Im glad you mentioned adding shade, I’ll cover them which I hadn’t thought about. Will also keep my darned huskies out😂. I have fencing up, three foot but they are jumping it the little twerps . Thank goodness they are darned cute
Your videos are always helpful and I appreciate the diagrams and the comparison of the growth of potted seedlings vs ones that are still not potted. I need to try out your tilt and push the soil to the side technique. I think some of my smaller seedlings are not doing too well because of too many air pockets.
That method, or variations of it work well for me. The main thing is that in doing so, you never really press directly on the root. Then, it is a matter of giving it several days in the shade to avoid transplant shock. And even still, you may lose some seedlings. And, some species are just tough to transplant no matter what you do. I would say my lowest survival rate ever has been Virginia Bluebells. The young tender taproot is just sensitive. I don't know how else to explain it.
Great video! I just got to the point of separating some seedlings and was hoping you had a video on the topic! Does the same advice apply to sedges and grasses?
Thank you Patrick! You're going to love all the wildlife you bring in. Just remember, plant at least 3 of something to attract more. Isolated specimens can look cool, but they often don't bring in as much.
This is by far the best instructional video I have seen on ANYTHING! Thank you so much!!! I can't really tell, do you plant up to the cotyledon or do you put those into the soil and plant up to the true leaves?
Thank you for a close-up of seedlings! I immediately recognized the carpet of mystery seedlings I have growing in my perennial bed, on the edge, pushed there by rain. Lobelia cardinalis, how exciting! They look so much like amaranth seedlings that I wasn’t sure. I have a red-leaf cultivar L cardinalis and was hoping that’s what they are. Idea for you: make a simple but detailed seedling ID video or photo post. Of flowers and common weeds. So valuable. That type of information is scattered across university extension pdf’s and nature/gardening blogs - not enough photos of seedlings as they grow. I’m learning to recognize them each year but it gets more challenging telling flowers apart. Thanks for your efforts!
I know it's been almost a year....but we did a post on what seedlings look like, as well as emergence in Spring. See here - growitbuildit.com/identify-emerging-native-plants/ Thank you for the inspiration. Happy gardening.
@@growitbuildit thanks! I’ll look at it. My seedlings were tall penstemon, by the way. The lobelias got washed down from the bed and decided to grow up against the bed border in the path! Also tons of lobelias red and blue sprouted and are continuing in the bed. Makes me happy. Silly me bought seeds. Unnecessary!
Blahahaha after watching your video I can only pray mine survive at all. I winter sowed 3 milk jugs of poppies which are sposed to be notorious to transplant anyway. I also read from the farmers almanac that its good to do transplanting on humid days if possible and that makes sense however I was impatient so I took 1 jug and did the deal just like your doin and thank God I kept the others for this wednsday its sposed to rain but it was 80 and hot as hell here in east texas and I started seperating from jug to ground; and shit those things wilted as I was going, even though I was gentle but I could see their distress so I ended up with just planting the "Hunk o plant " method like you mentioned. Great video and many thanks for the lessons learned.
Ah - transplant shock! Yup. It happens. Keep the plants well watered and they might pull through. I have even placed a chair above a plant to help keep it shaded when I had to transplant, knowing that the 'shock' would come.
Thank you for another informative video. I'm trying winter sowing for the first time this year and this is really helpful. Your clip of planting self heal directly in your lawn piqued my curiosity. Do you hope to use it for medicinal benefits?
Hi Brian - my main goal of self-heal was for pollinators. But I plan to do a bit more research on benefits of the plant, and possibly try it out this year. I've been happily adding various edible, or culinary useful plants to my yard for some time now.
Have you tried starting in washed play sand? A couple of days after they break the surface use a spoon and simply tug gently and for some reason the exposed roots start growing in the seed starting soil almost immediately.
Sometimes I will leave the plants in their containers for an embarrassingly long amount of time - so I try to grow in potting soil right out of the gate. That way there is enough nutrients from the sphagnum peat moss to keep them alive!
I just separated and transplanted my first plants, and hopefully they will survive thanks so much to your teachings! I’d give this video 4 thumbs up if I could. Thanks so much Joe. I’m guessing I shouldn’t put the plants back under the grow light to avoid transplant shock, correct? I don’t have a garage, but I can put them in the basement. Is that ok? Thanks very much!!
Hi Erin - yes, you need to avoid transplant shock. The basement will work, but careful because surface molds/fungi can develop. The main thing is that they are in shade, or at least, out of direct sunlight. That is the key - good luck!
I 'm a bit of a novice and have a "pre-transplanting" questions. I've put some of my seeds onto paper towels and ziplock bags in my freezer. Once they start germinating, can I just lay the paper towel on top of a soil bed until the grow true leaves? BTW thank you so much for your channel!!
Hi - Stern. If the seeds have not germinated when your stratification is done, but the seeds are stuck to the towel, then yes, you can carefully tear around a seed and plant that (paper towel and all). Personally I would try to get several individual seeds per pot. Separating seedlings is always an option, but the less you need to untangle the roots, the better. Every time you separate seedlings carries a risk of killing one of the plants - just sneezing while you are pulling two apart could be an issue! And thank you for the kind words! I love hearing that my videos are appreciated!
Great video Joe! I have a few questions. First, what do you do with the left over soil from the germination milk jug or 6 pack inserts? Second, I see that you've used 4" square pots as well as round pots for transplanting. Is there any significance to this or was it just what you had on hand?
Hi Lesley - I will try to answer your questions in order. 1 - I reuse that soil for potting up larger plants. 2 - No significance. I go with what I've got on-hand. There are a large number of native plants that can grow to quite a healthy size in just a simple 4" pot. I've even over-wintered them, totally exposed (zone 6) and they have survived. Not all species, but many.
Thank you so much. If you are using milk jugs to start your seeds. How many holes should you use ? Did you tape the jug together? I also have trouble getting seeds off the paper towel when doing inside cold stratification. Joe do you have a video to help with that?
Hi Jeanie - I have a detailed video guide on Winter Sowing, which is where I use the milk-jugs. I think it will answer most of your questions. It is here - th-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/w-d-xo.html In regards to getting the seeds off the paper towel, you can just carefully tear/cut around an individual seed that is stuck and plant it. But if the seed hasn't germinated, then I have held the towel over a plate or even gently raked the seed with my hand, then transfer to a plate before sowing.
Thanks for this! For winter-sowing, when the seedlings get 2-3 true leaves, you move them... if it's "before frost" I guess into 4" pots, or if it's "closer to your last frost" then you can put them in the ground?
Hi Keri - I generally separate/transplant around the last frost date. With winter sowing, the seedlings are usually a decent size by then, so it is a bit safer to move them. For planting into the ground, I would just wait until last frost date to be safe. When it comes to veggies or tender annuals, they generally won't start growing rapidly until the ground begins to warm up. I would just wait until the 'sow' date on the seed pack when it comes to veggies.
When you separate and up-pot native plants, what soil do you use, and does it have fertilizer in it? At some point the plants need to have nutrients, so when and how do you feed them?
Hi - the main soil I like to use is ProMix, which is mostly sphagnum peat moss. I've used other name brands like Miracle grow too, but this isn't always the case. My main concern with potting soil (for seedlings) is not having a lot of twigs and the like. But I never fertilize anything specifically, as the seedlings tend to do just fine without.
@@growitbuildit But when you up-pot them to a container, don't they need to be fed? I guess maybe the real question is "Do you ever add any fertilizer (or any other form of nutrition) to your native plants, and if so when do you do that?"
@@vintagemotorcyclerepair4052 For native plants, I never add supplemental fertilizer in containers, nor anywhere else. When you transplant to a final location, you can toss in a handful of compost if you like, but it still isn't necessary. Once you start growing some for a couple years - you'll see what I mean. Just match the plant to the conditions (sun/moist/soil texture or drainage), they will do the rest.
This is a great video! Do you have any advice on separating cucumber seedlings? I started my first veggie garden this past Sunday. I have a small raised garden bed with a greenhouse attached to the top. I put the seeds straight into the soil, and multiple cucumber seedlings have sprouted up in the same spots. I’d like to try and save as many as I can and spread them out when they are strong enough to withstand it!
Hi Makaela - personally I would just thin the cucumber seedlings if they are grouped within 1-2" (2.5-5cm). Once they are in the ground, they are off to the races in terms of establishing roots, etc. But if you wish to try, you should probably get a pencil or chopstick, then carefully poke near the plant, move the pencil around, and then use a spoon or fork to try to scoop out the plant. Then, transfer it to a new spot, and put something over it that will keep it shaded (but still let air through) for a few days to reduce transplant shock.
Hi, I sowed a bunch of veggies in gallon water jugs and now I want to transplant into my larger containers. Problem is, I can’t tell how many stems for each plant. Particularly with my kale. I started trying to separate before I found your video. The root system is pretty mature but I had trouble trying to determine how much to separate to make one plant. 🙄 I’m planting them into bus boxes”, 6 per box. Help!!!🥴
Hi Latonya, I've never grown Kale. But just googling Kale seedlings I found images showing that an individual seedling has a single stem emerging from the dirt that quickly branches into several stems. So, focus on a single stem out of the dirt. If it is still too difficult, you can run water over the soil to remove dirt. Then roots should untangle. But this can be a bit traumatic too... Also, don't forget what italjed about in the beginning of the video. Try to determine how many plants you *want* to have. Don't try to save every seedling.
Hi Bob - for smaller pots (4-6") I generally use a higher-end potting mix. ProMix is wonderful stuff. I can usually get a bale or two really cheap in Autumn from some local Ace Hardware. It is primarily Sphagnum Peat Moss (75% or more) and then some pearlite/vermiculite. The higher-end potting mix generally has no or few twigs, and is just nicer to work with. But for potting up into larger pots (1-3 gallon) I will use cheaper potting mix, or even mix it with top-soil 50/50. It will still drain well enough, and the trees don't seem to mind.
Hi Eileen - there are some native plants that can grow in turf grass, survive the never-ending mowing and still bloom. Self-heal is one of those. Another example would be violets. I like that I can use more of my 'turf' for pollinators that way. I have no videos on either of these, but did write some short articles a couple years ago - growitbuildit.com/self-heal-plant-prunella-vulgaris/ growitbuildit.com/wild-violet-facts-identification-grow-care-control/
Excellent information for me , I’m new to gardening . If I may ask , can the cold stratification process be applied to potatoes ? And what kind of soil did you use for seedlings , do seed potatoes use the same soil ?
Hi - pretty much. I just use regular potting soil. Cheaper potting soil will have more twigs and such, so the more money you spend, the better. Twigs and stuff can make it easier to damage roots, etc.
Hey Joe. I thinned my Mexican Sunflower & Zinnia seedlings two weeks ago and now they are thriving. It's going almost too well, lol. They are growing out of their 6" pots now and I still have two more weeks until I put them in the garden. I intend to pot them up as the roots are starting to grow out of the bottoms of my smaller pots. But, would I need to keep them under my grow light after this next step? If I pot them up, they won't fit under the grow light with my other seedlings still growing (butterfly milkweed, tropical milkweed).
Hi Michelle - I'm not sure where you are located, but you could start taking them outside during the day and bringing them into a garage at night. That way they would get sun/airflow. This is assuming it is getting above freezing during the day. Then you could pot them up.
Hey Joe, I am wondering if you have any advice on overall growing setup issues. I ended up with many stunted seedlings this year that were too small to transplant. For example, I had a giant sunflower seedling in a milk jug on my deck all summer that never seemed to grow. Secondly, I was using some cell trays (indoors and outdoors) and seemed to have stunted seedlings that never got big and filled out their trays like the seedlings you show (cardinal flower and wild bergamot). The growing medium was just regular potting soil for everything. I don't have grow lights but when indoors I use a fairly sunny southeast facing window. The cell trays are only 1.5in by 1.5in and about 2 inches deep. I was thinking this should be big enough to get flowers big enough to transplant outside and it was good enough for black-eyed susans. The cells are clear so I can see that some of the stunted plants roots did go fairly deep but did not really fill out the cell. Just for clarification this was over a timelime of months since spring. Do you just keep your seedling trays full of potting soil outside most of the year or do you do something more elaborate? I also assume you are not fertilizing the seedlings at all. Just wondering you have any thoughts on improving results for next year.
Hi Trotsky - I can tell you exactly what is wrong based on your comment. You are using too small of pots. The size of plants will be in proportion to the available space for their root mass (up to a point). The root mass needs to support everything above ground so to speak. There are several things that can cause stunted seedlings in my experience. The first being too small of a pot, second being too many seedlings (hence thinning or separating), and then finally not enough sun, etc. The only other major risk to watch out for is damp-off disease, which is a fungus that can occur if the soil is very wet, with no sunlight for prolonged periods of time. Hence I always say to keep pots in morning sun/afternoon shade, and water in the morning only! But as you suspect, I do not fertilize seedlings. I just use potting soil. My favorite is ProMix, which is expensive but lasts approximately two years. For transferring to larger containers, I will use whatever I can get that is of decent quality (Miracle grow if cheap, otherwise anything with limited numbers of twigs). And finally, I start my seedlings in jugs or these six-packs (the one with 8 six packs per sheet) www.greenhousemegastore.com/collections/trays-flats/products/deep-inserts?variant=43266378891463 And I pot up to 3.5" or 4" pots eventually (for most plants). For the Cardinal Flowers they were four-packs that were roughly 2.5x2.5x3" deep.
@@growitbuildit Thank you very much Joe. I went ahead and bought some new containers. It is definitely time to upgrade. Hopefully that will help with propagation for the next year.
The self-heal hasn't done that well. I believe I have it in too sunny a location, and it needs a bit of afternoon shade or at least more moisture. But I'm just adding diversity to the lawn. The violets are doing great though!
Hi - I'm not aware of any natural ways to do this, as the pH is set more by the base rocks that formed your soil. I've not had to do this myself, but have read about it researching growing blueberries. You need to mix up sulfur or some other amendment into your soil. Here is a good reference on this that I would trust- hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/
I separate the store bought vegetables. I always have a problem with the squash/ cucumbers surviving the shock. I buy one cucumber that has 3-5 starts in it. I think I’m just better off just cutting the less lively ones after planted. The problem is , if it fails they may be no longer available to be purchased . They get bought up quick
You've got to try seeds. The cucumber plants you buy in the store sometimes were germinated just a few days before. See the paper towel method here - it works! growitbuildit.com/how-to-germinate-seeds-on-paper-towels-a-total-guide/
After a couple disasters, my "separation technique" is to never plant seeds together. But sometimes it happens, and it's nice to know that it's possible to get good at separating.
Hi Jason - that is too bad, but I can certainly understand. I've killed my fair-share of plants. Some species are just sensitive to transplanting or any invasive handling. I've observed (don't know how universal it is) that plants with tap-roots are more sensitive to handling. But - should the need arise, hopefully you will be more successful in the future.
Has anyone just gone for it, gently ripped apart taller established vegetable seedlings roots 2-3 per pot? And had any luck with them thriving in the garden? I spent 3 hours doing just that yesterday😅
For the past few years I’ve been sowing seeds in clear plastic egg cartons that you sometimes see in the market. They’re perfect little enclosed environments and my success rate is in the high 90s. Once they’re ready to step up, I use plastic yogurt cups that I save all year. Unless one is sowing thousands of seeds, I don’t see the point in buying pricey specialized seed trays and liners and heat mats. I have no illusions that I’m saving the planet, but I prefer to reuse when I can!
That would work well. I buy the trays/six-packs once every 2-3 years. I just always find myself testing new species, and it is just one less job I need to do to prepare for sowing!
Great ideas!
Good video, the shade for a week to help transplant shock was something I've never done but it makes good sense. I'll be doing that now!
Hi Dennis, thank you. Placing them in the shade really makes a difference!
This is the most well done video ive been able to find. Effeciently communicated valuable information and very clear and concise and multiple techniques. Great video. Thank you for sharing.. i like your style.
Thank you! I'm very happy you enjoyed it. And I try to follow that style for each vid.
Thanks! This was EXTREMELY helpful!!
Thank you so much! That is very generous Mary!
Really great video. Just the right detail, variations, practical considerations and solutions, etc. Thanks!
Thank you Mark - I appreciate the kind words. And I am very happy you found it helpful.
Incredibly helpful!! Best videos on seed germination. Thank you for the practical detail!!
Thank you so much Kim! I'm very happy you are finding them helpful!
Thank you for this video. Its very clear, concise and informative.
Thanks - I'm happy it helped you out! Good luck this season
Great video! I really appreciate that you included clips of the seedlings progress after being separated and potted.
You are welcome! I thought people would find it helpful. I have way more footage than I included. But those are pretty representative and show just how fast seedlings will grow given enough space.
Thanks so much for this very timely video. I tried winter sowing for the first time this year and so far have had great germination rates on most plants. I was shocked, however, at how heavily I had over seeded some (foxgloves, cardinal flower, pansies). Now I have a game plan on how to proceed.
Thank you Callie - I'm glad you found it helpful. I wanted to make sure that I got this video out by March! It is amazing sometimes how heavily you sow. But the thing is, I've foraged and bought seed that just wouldn't germinate, or had low germination rates. You can always thin, then separate later. I just don't want to waste all that cold stratification time.
LOVE the tip about turning the pot sideways! I'm going to try this tomorrow. I have several I need to transplant.
Excellent Vanessa - good luck! I've had only a few seeds germinate this year so far. But right now it is 17F and everything is snow covered!
I just started picking up gardening recently, and I've been so afraid of killing my seedlings by repotting them wrong! Thank you so much for the tutorial, I will definetly use it❤
You are very welcome - good luck!
Full of detail and information, yet simply and clearly explained. Thank you.
You are very welcome Glynis - I'm happy you enjoyed it.
Perfect video --you answered all my questions! Gives me courage to pull my seedlings apart. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you Judy! I'm very happy you found it helpful. Good luck separating your seedlings!
This is an excellent video for repotting seedlings. Thank you for this. I like your diagrams.
You are very welcome Sandy! I'm glad you found them helpful. I'm improving my MS Paint skill!
I don't think I've ever seen a video on this! Great info. I'm going to have to do this with sweet alyssum
Thank you Holly - I'm glad you liked it. Good luck on separating your sweet alyssum.
do you have pictures by chance? I am doing that now but just put seeds into one container. (not cells). They germinated and are all about and inch and 1/2 tall. There is an abundance of them and trying to figure out my next steps!
@Stephanie Whitehead, I show how to do this later in the video with milk jugs. Did you see that part?
@@growitbuildit hi! I did. Mine just seem much more crowded.
You can thin it first. Try to determine how many plants you want, and go from there.
Such a great & useful video! Thank you for taking the time to share your experience & insights 🌻
You are very welcome! Glad you found it helpful
Another super helpful video. Thanks!
Thank you Tara! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Another excellent video from you full of much needed information! I bought some 3 oz Dixi cups for my seedlings' first home from their winter sowing. When they're ready for their permanent location all I'll have to do is tear the bottom of the cup off and make slits on the sides so the roots have room to grow. Being made of paper, the cups should just compost. That way they only have to be transplanted the one time. This is an experiment for me, and I hope it works.
Thank you Nana - that could work very well. I would like to hear the results. But I think your idea will work well. I have found that if I let the plant grow long enough, the roots will fill out and it is pretty easy to remove a single plant w/ roots & soil altogether. But your idea would probably allow you to transplant single plants much earlier.
Thank you Joe! I will be doing this soon. 🌱🌱🌱
You are welcome Gin - good luck!
I love this channel!
Thank you Bowser!
Very useful! Thanks for including the hunk o' seeds method. First year of winter sowing.
You are very welcome - good luck and congrats on success with winter sowing!
@@growitbuildit You said "I'm trying to plant this in my lawn, believe it or not" meaning your self-heal. How did that work out? I'm thinking of planting some native seedlings in the lawn with maybe a little mulch around them. If it works, eventually the whole lawn will be gone! It seems like it might be easier than putting down cardboard and mulch. And the wife won't notice as the lawn slowly disappears.
@@davidevans4565 It has worked 'ok'. I'm trying to get plants that can intermingle with the lawn, and survive the mower. So far, it works if there is enough shade. If there is too much sun, violets and self-heal won't make it. But, I'm going to keep trying, as Self-heal self-seeds quite a bit in the garden where it is located. So I have a long supply.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you Dolores!
I love this video! Answered everything i needed to know even things i didn’t know i needed to know.
Thank you MF. I'm glad you found it so helpful. Good luck!
Thanks this is super helpful. I have a bunch of seedlings in my greenhouse that are almost ready to be separated and doing this for the first time.
You are very welcome! Glad you found it helpful, and good luck with your seedlings.
What a great video! Thank you for sharing all of these ideas for different winter-sown scenarios. I watched this one last fall as I was considering winter sowing for the first time, and re-watched just now since my winter sowing was successful and I'll be separating seedlings soon. I love your blog and videos - thank you! 😊
Thank you Ann - I'm very happy you are finding our info helpful. Congrats on Winter Sowing, and good luck this season!
Some great tips! Thank you
Thank you Angie!
You are my new favorite channel! Thank you so much! I appreciate the knowledge you are sharing!
Thank you Krash! Glad you are enjoying my videos.
Really great! Answered all my questions in one hit. Thank you
Thank you! Glad I could help you out.
Good job. Thanks
Thank you James!
Perfect timing! Needed this for next steps.
Excellent Janet - I'm glad you found it helpful!
Thank you!! Much needed knowledge 😊
You are welcome Nick - I'm glad I could help you out!
Thank you for the tip on bare root care
You are welcome!
Incredibly helpful, thank you. Great Video.
You are very welcome Michael - good luck!
Thank you very helpful !
Thank you Bridgitte - I'm glad you found it helpful!
THANK YOU So much for defining "true leaves". It was always so confusing for me. LOVE your channel!
You are very welcome Laura - I'm glad I could help you out.
Thank you so much! I'm a new gardener and i just threw a bunch of seeds together. Now i can at least try saving them. :).
You are very welcome Vixey! Good luck on your new garden!
I am coming out of winter sowing also with 12 milk jug of flowering plant. Every jug has great result except my gerbera daisies but they took longer last year outside the milk jugs.This really has helped me. My question has been when showed i start to replant them. Thank for this video!!
You are very welcome Cassandra! Happy I could help you out.
Well done. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you Howard - I'm glad you found it helpful.
Great info on cardinal flower, I've been waiting for mine to get larger to transplant!
Hi Margaret - glad you enjoyed it. Maybe thin your Cardinal flower seedlings a little bit first - it makes a big difference in how large they get!
Great video, I sowed all my carrots and beets and unfortunately had rare torrential downpour the next day and they were all washed away to the end of my bed but are growing in clumps so I was wondering best way to thin out. I’m going to try the fork and start spreading them out. We have had a weird rainy season. Im glad you mentioned adding shade, I’ll cover them which I hadn’t thought about. Will also keep my darned huskies out😂. I have fencing up, three foot but they are jumping it the little twerps . Thank goodness they are darned cute
I'm glad I could help you out. Good luck with your carrots!
Very helpful info!! Thank you 😍
You are very welcome - good luck Lynn!
This is great information! I'm trying 😅 this explains everything I did wrong lol thanks for explaining!
You are very welcome Kayleen!
Very well done video. Thank you!
Thank you Bob - I'm glad you found it helpful.
Your videos are always helpful and I appreciate the diagrams and the comparison of the growth of potted seedlings vs ones that are still not potted. I need to try out your tilt and push the soil to the side technique. I think some of my smaller seedlings are not doing too well because of too many air pockets.
That method, or variations of it work well for me. The main thing is that in doing so, you never really press directly on the root. Then, it is a matter of giving it several days in the shade to avoid transplant shock.
And even still, you may lose some seedlings. And, some species are just tough to transplant no matter what you do. I would say my lowest survival rate ever has been Virginia Bluebells. The young tender taproot is just sensitive. I don't know how else to explain it.
Great video! I just got to the point of separating some seedlings and was hoping you had a video on the topic! Does the same advice apply to sedges and grasses?
Hi - thank you. Yes, the process is the same for sedges and grasses.
Awesome videos. Thank you so much! 💚🪴
You are very welcome Carlean!
Thank you!!! Very informative! SUBSCRIBED!!!! 👍 👍
Thank you LL!
So much great info! Thank you!
Thank you - I'm very happy you enjoyed it.
This was incredibly helpful thank you!
*peeks over at my kale sitting in clusters of 5 to 7* 👀
Lol. You are very welcome Obsidia
Love the channel and blog! Excited to try some native plants this year.
Thank you Patrick! You're going to love all the wildlife you bring in. Just remember, plant at least 3 of something to attract more. Isolated specimens can look cool, but they often don't bring in as much.
This is friggin priceless, thank you!
You are very welcome
Excellent video. Thank you for the great advice!
You are very welcome - I'm glad you enjoyed it!
This video is awesome and so helpful, thank you!!
Thank you Sarah - I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Indeed! May I ask when you start your jug thingys outside?
Indeed! May I ask when you start your jug thingys outside?
Indeed! May I ask when you start your jug thingys outside?
Indeed! May I ask when you start your jug thingys outside?
This is by far the best instructional video I have seen on ANYTHING! Thank you so much!!!
I can't really tell, do you plant up to the cotyledon or do you put those into the soil and plant up to the true leaves?
Thank you Amanda! I try to keep the seedling at the same level in the soil. So, cotleydon will be exposed if it's still there.
Thank you for a close-up of seedlings! I immediately recognized the carpet of mystery seedlings I have growing in my perennial bed, on the edge, pushed there by rain. Lobelia cardinalis, how exciting! They look so much like amaranth seedlings that I wasn’t sure. I have a red-leaf cultivar L cardinalis and was hoping that’s what they are. Idea for you: make a simple but detailed seedling ID video or photo post. Of flowers and common weeds. So valuable. That type of information is scattered across university extension pdf’s and nature/gardening blogs - not enough photos of seedlings as they grow. I’m learning to recognize them each year but it gets more challenging telling flowers apart. Thanks for your efforts!
You are very welcome Olga - and having that many Cardinal Flower seedlings is what I call a 'happy discovery'!
I know it's been almost a year....but we did a post on what seedlings look like, as well as emergence in Spring. See here - growitbuildit.com/identify-emerging-native-plants/
Thank you for the inspiration. Happy gardening.
@@growitbuildit thanks! I’ll look at it. My seedlings were tall penstemon, by the way. The lobelias got washed down from the bed and decided to grow up against the bed border in the path! Also tons of lobelias red and blue sprouted and are continuing in the bed. Makes me happy. Silly me bought seeds. Unnecessary!
Blahahaha after watching your video I can only pray mine survive at all. I winter sowed 3 milk jugs of poppies which are sposed to be notorious to transplant anyway. I also read from the farmers almanac that its good to do transplanting on humid days if possible and that makes sense however I was impatient so I took 1 jug and did the deal just like your doin and thank God I kept the others for this wednsday its sposed to rain but it was 80 and hot as hell here in east texas and I started seperating from jug to ground; and shit those things wilted as I was going, even though I was gentle but I could see their distress so I ended up with just planting the "Hunk o plant " method like you mentioned. Great video and many thanks for the lessons learned.
Ah - transplant shock! Yup. It happens. Keep the plants well watered and they might pull through. I have even placed a chair above a plant to help keep it shaded when I had to transplant, knowing that the 'shock' would come.
Thank you for another informative video. I'm trying winter sowing for the first time this year and this is really helpful.
Your clip of planting self heal directly in your lawn piqued my curiosity. Do you hope to use it for medicinal benefits?
Hi Brian - my main goal of self-heal was for pollinators. But I plan to do a bit more research on benefits of the plant, and possibly try it out this year. I've been happily adding various edible, or culinary useful plants to my yard for some time now.
What if your planting 3 seeds to a hole directly in the ground. Can you just clip off the 2 weaker/smaller plants and keep growing the plant in place?
Hi Frank - you've got it exactly right. That is what is called 'thinning'.
Have you tried starting in washed play sand? A couple of days after they break the surface use a spoon and simply tug gently and for some reason the exposed roots start growing in the seed starting soil almost immediately.
Sometimes I will leave the plants in their containers for an embarrassingly long amount of time - so I try to grow in potting soil right out of the gate. That way there is enough nutrients from the sphagnum peat moss to keep them alive!
Very through. Great video
Thank you Michael! Glad you enjoyed it. Good luck.
this was excellent thank you so much!
You are very welcome!
I just separated and transplanted my first plants, and hopefully they will survive thanks so much to your teachings! I’d give this video 4 thumbs up if I could. Thanks so much Joe. I’m guessing I shouldn’t put the plants back under the grow light to avoid transplant shock, correct? I don’t have a garage, but I can put them in the basement. Is that ok? Thanks very much!!
Hi Erin - yes, you need to avoid transplant shock. The basement will work, but careful because surface molds/fungi can develop. The main thing is that they are in shade, or at least, out of direct sunlight. That is the key - good luck!
I 'm a bit of a novice and have a "pre-transplanting" questions. I've put some of my seeds onto paper towels and ziplock bags in my freezer. Once they start germinating, can I just lay the paper towel on top of a soil bed until the grow true leaves? BTW thank you so much for your channel!!
Hi - Stern. If the seeds have not germinated when your stratification is done, but the seeds are stuck to the towel, then yes, you can carefully tear around a seed and plant that (paper towel and all). Personally I would try to get several individual seeds per pot.
Separating seedlings is always an option, but the less you need to untangle the roots, the better. Every time you separate seedlings carries a risk of killing one of the plants - just sneezing while you are pulling two apart could be an issue!
And thank you for the kind words! I love hearing that my videos are appreciated!
@@growitbuildit Thank you! Sharing your knowledge is helping to change the world for good :)
Great video, thanks.
You are very welcome Carol. I'm happy you found it helpful.
Great video Joe! I have a few questions. First, what do you do with the left over soil from the germination milk jug or 6 pack inserts? Second, I see that you've used 4" square pots as well as round pots for transplanting. Is there any significance to this or was it just what you had on hand?
Hi Lesley - I will try to answer your questions in order.
1 - I reuse that soil for potting up larger plants.
2 - No significance. I go with what I've got on-hand. There are a large number of native plants that can grow to quite a healthy size in just a simple 4" pot. I've even over-wintered them, totally exposed (zone 6) and they have survived. Not all species, but many.
Thank you so much. If you are using milk jugs to start your seeds. How many holes should you use ? Did you tape the jug together? I also have trouble getting seeds off the paper towel when doing inside cold stratification. Joe do you have a video to help with that?
Hi Jeanie - I have a detailed video guide on Winter Sowing, which is where I use the milk-jugs. I think it will answer most of your questions. It is here - th-cam.com/video/SKXY6dl-5Tk/w-d-xo.html
In regards to getting the seeds off the paper towel, you can just carefully tear/cut around an individual seed that is stuck and plant it. But if the seed hasn't germinated, then I have held the towel over a plate or even gently raked the seed with my hand, then transfer to a plate before sowing.
@@growitbuildit thanks Joe. I will check out video
Thanks for this! For winter-sowing, when the seedlings get 2-3 true leaves, you move them... if it's "before frost" I guess into 4" pots, or if it's "closer to your last frost" then you can put them in the ground?
Hi Keri - I generally separate/transplant around the last frost date. With winter sowing, the seedlings are usually a decent size by then, so it is a bit safer to move them. For planting into the ground, I would just wait until last frost date to be safe.
When it comes to veggies or tender annuals, they generally won't start growing rapidly until the ground begins to warm up. I would just wait until the 'sow' date on the seed pack when it comes to veggies.
after a transplant, is it better to water less? Assuming moist soil …
Hi - if the soil is moist, than there is no need to water.
When you separate and up-pot native plants, what soil do you use, and does it have fertilizer in it?
At some point the plants need to have nutrients, so when and how do you feed them?
Hi - the main soil I like to use is ProMix, which is mostly sphagnum peat moss. I've used other name brands like Miracle grow too, but this isn't always the case. My main concern with potting soil (for seedlings) is not having a lot of twigs and the like. But I never fertilize anything specifically, as the seedlings tend to do just fine without.
@@growitbuildit But when you up-pot them to a container, don't they need to be fed?
I guess maybe the real question is "Do you ever add any fertilizer (or any other form of nutrition) to your native plants, and if so when do you do that?"
@@vintagemotorcyclerepair4052 For native plants, I never add supplemental fertilizer in containers, nor anywhere else. When you transplant to a final location, you can toss in a handful of compost if you like, but it still isn't necessary.
Once you start growing some for a couple years - you'll see what I mean. Just match the plant to the conditions (sun/moist/soil texture or drainage), they will do the rest.
This is a great video! Do you have any advice on separating cucumber seedlings? I started my first veggie garden this past Sunday. I have a small raised garden bed with a greenhouse attached to the top. I put the seeds straight into the soil, and multiple cucumber seedlings have sprouted up in the same spots. I’d like to try and save as many as I can and spread them out when they are strong enough to withstand it!
Hi Makaela - personally I would just thin the cucumber seedlings if they are grouped within 1-2" (2.5-5cm). Once they are in the ground, they are off to the races in terms of establishing roots, etc.
But if you wish to try, you should probably get a pencil or chopstick, then carefully poke near the plant, move the pencil around, and then use a spoon or fork to try to scoop out the plant. Then, transfer it to a new spot, and put something over it that will keep it shaded (but still let air through) for a few days to reduce transplant shock.
Creating plastic egg containers, carefully separate.
Hi, I sowed a bunch of veggies in gallon water jugs and now I want to transplant into my larger containers. Problem is, I can’t tell how many stems for each plant. Particularly with my kale. I started trying to separate before I found your video. The root system is pretty mature but I had trouble trying to determine how much to separate to make one plant. 🙄 I’m planting them into bus boxes”, 6 per box. Help!!!🥴
Hi Latonya, I've never grown Kale. But just googling Kale seedlings I found images showing that an individual seedling has a single stem emerging from the dirt that quickly branches into several stems.
So, focus on a single stem out of the dirt. If it is still too difficult, you can run water over the soil to remove dirt. Then roots should untangle. But this can be a bit traumatic too...
Also, don't forget what italjed about in the beginning of the video. Try to determine how many plants you *want* to have. Don't try to save every seedling.
what is your transplant mix?
Hi Bob - for smaller pots (4-6") I generally use a higher-end potting mix. ProMix is wonderful stuff. I can usually get a bale or two really cheap in Autumn from some local Ace Hardware. It is primarily Sphagnum Peat Moss (75% or more) and then some pearlite/vermiculite.
The higher-end potting mix generally has no or few twigs, and is just nicer to work with. But for potting up into larger pots (1-3 gallon) I will use cheaper potting mix, or even mix it with top-soil 50/50. It will still drain well enough, and the trees don't seem to mind.
Hello, thanks for the video...when you plant in your lawn, how well does that work and there are specific plants that work better there?
Hi Eileen - there are some native plants that can grow in turf grass, survive the never-ending mowing and still bloom. Self-heal is one of those. Another example would be violets. I like that I can use more of my 'turf' for pollinators that way.
I have no videos on either of these, but did write some short articles a couple years ago -
growitbuildit.com/self-heal-plant-prunella-vulgaris/
growitbuildit.com/wild-violet-facts-identification-grow-care-control/
Thank you, very helpful 🇦🇺
You are very welcome - good luck!
Hey Joe - what size pots do you recommend using? I will eventually be separating from milk jugs. Thanks!
Hi Jason - at least 3.5" square/deep. The larger the pot, the faster and bigger it will grow.
great info TY
You are very welcome - good luck!
Excellent information for me , I’m new to gardening . If I may ask , can the cold stratification process be applied to potatoes ? And what kind of soil did you use for seedlings , do seed potatoes use the same soil ?
Hi Hanz, I've not heard of people planting potatoes in pots. But more so just planting direct into the ground.
@@growitbuildit thank you very much , I’m looking forward to watching more of your shows .
What type of soil did you use to separate? Same as to germinate?
Hi - pretty much. I just use regular potting soil. Cheaper potting soil will have more twigs and such, so the more money you spend, the better. Twigs and stuff can make it easier to damage roots, etc.
Hey Joe. I thinned my Mexican Sunflower & Zinnia seedlings two weeks ago and now they are thriving. It's going almost too well, lol. They are growing out of their 6" pots now and I still have two more weeks until I put them in the garden. I intend to pot them up as the roots are starting to grow out of the bottoms of my smaller pots. But, would I need to keep them under my grow light after this next step? If I pot them up, they won't fit under the grow light with my other seedlings still growing (butterfly milkweed, tropical milkweed).
Sorry - need to correct. Seedlings are in 3" round containers and I want to pot up to a 4.5" square container.
Hi Michelle - I'm not sure where you are located, but you could start taking them outside during the day and bringing them into a garage at night. That way they would get sun/airflow. This is assuming it is getting above freezing during the day. Then you could pot them up.
Hey Joe, I am wondering if you have any advice on overall growing setup issues. I ended up with many stunted seedlings this year that were too small to transplant. For example, I had a giant sunflower seedling in a milk jug on my deck all summer that never seemed to grow. Secondly, I was using some cell trays (indoors and outdoors) and seemed to have stunted seedlings that never got big and filled out their trays like the seedlings you show (cardinal flower and wild bergamot). The growing medium was just regular potting soil for everything. I don't have grow lights but when indoors I use a fairly sunny southeast facing window. The cell trays are only 1.5in by 1.5in and about 2 inches deep. I was thinking this should be big enough to get flowers big enough to transplant outside and it was good enough for black-eyed susans. The cells are clear so I can see that some of the stunted plants roots did go fairly deep but did not really fill out the cell. Just for clarification this was over a timelime of months since spring. Do you just keep your seedling trays full of potting soil outside most of the year or do you do something more elaborate? I also assume you are not fertilizing the seedlings at all. Just wondering you have any thoughts on improving results for next year.
Hi Trotsky - I can tell you exactly what is wrong based on your comment. You are using too small of pots. The size of plants will be in proportion to the available space for their root mass (up to a point). The root mass needs to support everything above ground so to speak.
There are several things that can cause stunted seedlings in my experience. The first being too small of a pot, second being too many seedlings (hence thinning or separating), and then finally not enough sun, etc. The only other major risk to watch out for is damp-off disease, which is a fungus that can occur if the soil is very wet, with no sunlight for prolonged periods of time. Hence I always say to keep pots in morning sun/afternoon shade, and water in the morning only!
But as you suspect, I do not fertilize seedlings. I just use potting soil. My favorite is ProMix, which is expensive but lasts approximately two years. For transferring to larger containers, I will use whatever I can get that is of decent quality (Miracle grow if cheap, otherwise anything with limited numbers of twigs).
And finally, I start my seedlings in jugs or these six-packs (the one with 8 six packs per sheet) www.greenhousemegastore.com/collections/trays-flats/products/deep-inserts?variant=43266378891463
And I pot up to 3.5" or 4" pots eventually (for most plants). For the Cardinal Flowers they were four-packs that were roughly 2.5x2.5x3" deep.
@@growitbuildit Thank you very much Joe. I went ahead and bought some new containers. It is definitely time to upgrade. Hopefully that will help with propagation for the next year.
Self heal in the lawn, hows that working out? just adding some plant diversity to an existing lawn or plotting some sort of hostile takeover?
The self-heal hasn't done that well. I believe I have it in too sunny a location, and it needs a bit of afternoon shade or at least more moisture. But I'm just adding diversity to the lawn. The violets are doing great though!
Is there a natural way to mend the soil from basic to neutral? I live in the Texas hill country and the soil here in most places is terrible
Hi - I'm not aware of any natural ways to do this, as the pH is set more by the base rocks that formed your soil. I've not had to do this myself, but have read about it researching growing blueberries. You need to mix up sulfur or some other amendment into your soil. Here is a good reference on this that I would trust- hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/changing-the-ph-of-your-soil/
Thankyou!
You are very welcome!
I separate the store bought vegetables. I always have a problem with the squash/ cucumbers surviving the shock. I buy one cucumber that has 3-5 starts in it. I think I’m just better off just cutting the less lively ones after planted. The problem is , if it fails they may be no longer available to be purchased . They get bought up quick
You've got to try seeds. The cucumber plants you buy in the store sometimes were germinated just a few days before. See the paper towel method here - it works! growitbuildit.com/how-to-germinate-seeds-on-paper-towels-a-total-guide/
New sub. Thank you
Thank you very much!
Were u growing avocado in this vid ?
Hi - no Avocados in this video. The only Avocado seeds that have germinated at my house were in my compost pile!
After a couple disasters, my "separation technique" is to never plant seeds together. But sometimes it happens, and it's nice to know that it's possible to get good at separating.
Hi Jason - that is too bad, but I can certainly understand. I've killed my fair-share of plants. Some species are just sensitive to transplanting or any invasive handling. I've observed (don't know how universal it is) that plants with tap-roots are more sensitive to handling. But - should the need arise, hopefully you will be more successful in the future.
Has anyone just gone for it, gently ripped apart taller established vegetable seedlings roots 2-3 per pot? And had any luck with them thriving in the garden?
I spent 3 hours doing just that yesterday😅
Hi Candace - in my experience tall established veggies (especially tomatoes) handle separation really, really well. You can be quite rough with them.
Great info
Thank you Chris. I'm glad you found it helpful