Thanks for pointing out looking at the manual extrusion! I've watched a number of videos about troubleshooting extrusion problems and none of them mentioned this.
You can use a blow torch and hold the nozzle with some needle nose pliers. I think that is the best way, when you burn everything out then you just run it under cold water.
You don't even need a blow torch or some other brutal tools. I successfully cleaned my fully clogged nozzle using a lighter and the accupuncture needle that came with the Ender-4.
Exactly that with the pliers and the butane torch. It eventually gets hot enough that the stuck residue falls out in a single burning clump. I thought that was what everyone did. I'm going to give some of this filament I try though
I've been subscribed to you for a while and just now I noticed you've only got 20k subs! wtf I thought, by the quality of your videos, that you'd be at least an order of magnitude bigger! I love how you approach your videos.
Googled for this problem and of course the best solution can be found here, as usual. Ordered some; but in the meanwhile I decided to run some marble-filled filament through it as a light abrasive, and that also seems to do the trick for the particular clog I was facing right now.
I use cleaning filament when going from a hotter filament (PETG) to a colder filament (PLA). It's worked great for me. With Bowden, you are better to use a small 5-10cm length of Bowden tube to constrain the filament path. You can also do cold pulls with the cleaning filament.
The Best Stooge me neither and the machine is doing 120mm/s no problem so even if it doesn come straight, it doesnt seem to cause any problem and the surface finish is ok
The Best Stooge Same. Even after running cleaning filament through, I rarely ever get those kind of results, whether it's a cheap eBayzzle for pushing abrasives through a nozzle I shouldn't, or a brand new E3D nozzle. It doesn't seem to make any difference, though.
I used this guide to create a Klipper macro to perform this for me. 1. Heat the nozzle to 200C while homing the axes 2. Once up to 200C, slowly extrude 100mm of filament to replace whatever was already in there. 3. At the same time, start heating to 250C. Once it reaches 250C, it starts the cleaning process: 4. Very slowly extrude 25mm of filament 5. Sit in that state for 5 minutes (or however long you set) to cook the filament 6. Repeat 4 and 5 as many times as you set (3 by default) 7. Unload the filament 8. Brush the head 9. Cool off
Just ordered some. If this works I owe a drink ... I love the Formfutura StoneFill, but ... holy crap, my precious hardened steel nozzle ... (print ended 3 AM, didn't want to stand up). It didn't clog up right away, but it's a great primer for other filament residues ...
never had an issue just blasting the nozzle with a torch til red hot, then cooling and doing a cold pull or two. Always results in like new performance, with the side effect of an excuse to play with fire.
Yet another interesting watch,thanks. I saw you switched your nozzle on the prusa. Somehow I am a little bit hesitant to replace it myself,scared to break some wires. Perhaps its an idea for a video, show us how its done and the things to watch out for.
You are very right, but then again, it will not be a Stefan video :) I will dare and start this endeavor, as soon as my Mk3 arrives. Want to sell my mk2s and dont want to break things, haha. btw you video about vibrations really helped, I placed a big stone tile, ordered some anti-vibration pads and all is pretty silent now
This video would have helped me 3 month ago - I just bought a new nozzle and hotend for the mini. But the symptoms on my printer were the same as for you - even the same reason.
About your cold-pull technique: I've found that it's easier to do a pull after loosening the idler. At least with the eSun cleaning filament and the PLAs I've had to pull, leaving the idler engaged tends to scrape off too much crap in the hobbed gear, leaving me another maintenance task to deal with before I'm done.
CNC Kitchen Understandable. It is a bit of a chore to pull out the calipers and make sure the spacing is just right after putting it back. I've thought about installing a Titan in mine, just to get a lever to push when doing cold pulls.
@@CNCKitchen One of the many things Prusa engineers overlooked that could improve their printers. This is a minor example, but the glaring major omissions make me wonder why their printers with premium prices are so disappointing in so many ways.
So why wouldn't Acetone or Ethyl Alcohols or similar thinners not dissolve the blockage? If the filaments baked on, then wouldn't carbonizing the residue be simpler?
Hi Stephen, I was wondering if using a small blow torch on the nozzle after you remove it from the extruder is damaging the nozzle at all? as it seem to extrude any plastic residue stuck at the nozzle.
Not Stephen, but I have a hardened steel nozzle and use a small blowtorch to do just this. Works fine, but be careful not to touch with non-metallic tools or put on a surface not built to withstand heat.
@@hazoish7670 I always get the cheap chinese nozzles for cents a piece and they work just fine. They are for the most part within tolerance and if not I just use a nozzle cleaning bit to bore them to the correct size.
It's something to pay attention to though. Not neccessarily the frame so much, as to avoid yanking down hard on your hotend/print head when the filament breaks loose.
or just change the nozzle. even printing PLA will eventually wear the inside of the orfice and cause it to enlarge or wear down the external angles, resulting in impossible to control extrusion width nozzles are cheap. i usually change mine on my normal plastic printers every 3rd or 4th roll of PLA.
That's an interesting thought. A friend of mine swears by low volume fiber filled nylon, like Cf5/Cf10, for cleaning and maintenance. He keeps it out in the open and I think it's usually PA6 types, therefore that could actually be a factor why it works well for him. He uses only HSS or carbide nozzles though.
Nylon is usually a good choice for cold pulls due t it's low friction coefficient. I don't know if the bubbles from a wet filament would help, this cleaning material is definitely a "special composition".
CNC Kitchen .. P.S just want to say, I just discover your video and they are great 👍, thanks for the awesome content. Love the engineering bent on 3D printing.
Viele Kommentatoren scheinen die Unterschiede nicht verstanden zu haben zwischen Düsenwechsel und Reinigung. Wer schon ein Hotend zerbrochen hat, weil er die Düse kalt abschrauben wollte oder weil er sich die Finger verbrannt hat, weil er das nicht tat, der muss nur noch die Kalibrierung versaut haben. Alles vermeidbar mit diesem Reinigungsfilament !
Nozzles are sooo cheap right now, I could buy a pack of 10 for $9 and save $7 from buying Tylenol. I always try the melt and pull method, but after a couple of try’s and it’s still clogged, I toss the old one and replace it with a new one.
CNC Kitchen True, but it would've been perfect in the example you used here. I've also found that some acryllic solvent cements work well on PLA. I'm still a huge fan of doing a cold pull with cleaning filament in those cases, unless heat creep sent a glob into the upper throat, though. It's just usually the easiest route.
Liangshi Xu that's what I wonder are the nozzles cheaper to replace than this 3D clean filament :-) how much is the stuff that's probably a link in the description but I'm on mobile it's a pain I'll check when I get home :-)
Kann man nur so an dich zurückgeben. Während es völlig typisch bei Markennamen ist, manche Buchstaben durch phonetisch gleichartige zu ersetzen bist du wiederum so naiv, zu glauben, der Hersteller wüsste es lediglich nicht besser ;-)
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![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 61 | คู่เอก "เพชรสุขุมวิท vs ดวงสมพงษ์"](/img/tr.png)
Thanks for pointing out looking at the manual extrusion! I've watched a number of videos about troubleshooting extrusion problems and none of them mentioned this.
You can use a blow torch and hold the nozzle with some needle nose pliers. I think that is the best way, when you burn everything out then you just run it under cold water.
You don't even need a blow torch or some other brutal tools. I successfully cleaned my fully clogged nozzle using a lighter and the accupuncture needle that came with the Ender-4.
Exactly that with the pliers and the butane torch. It eventually gets hot enough that the stuck residue falls out in a single burning clump. I thought that was what everyone did. I'm going to give some of this filament I try though
I've been subscribed to you for a while and just now I noticed you've only got 20k subs!
wtf I thought, by the quality of your videos, that you'd be at least an order of magnitude bigger!
I love how you approach your videos.
2 years later he has grown an order bigger
Googled for this problem and of course the best solution can be found here, as usual. Ordered some; but in the meanwhile I decided to run some marble-filled filament through it as a light abrasive, and that also seems to do the trick for the particular clog I was facing right now.
I use cleaning filament when going from a hotter filament (PETG) to a colder filament (PLA). It's worked great for me. With Bowden, you are better to use a small 5-10cm length of Bowden tube to constrain the filament path. You can also do cold pulls with the cleaning filament.
I just heat the removed nozzle with a heat gun then apply compressed air. All metal air nozzle required.
I have never had a nozzle extrude the filament straight down. They always looked like yours did and these are old, and brand new, brass nozzles.
The Best Stooge
me neither and the machine is doing 120mm/s no problem so even if it doesn come straight, it doesnt seem to cause any problem and the surface finish is ok
Precisely Laharl.
The Best Stooge Same. Even after running cleaning filament through, I rarely ever get those kind of results, whether it's a cheap eBayzzle for pushing abrasives through a nozzle I shouldn't, or a brand new E3D nozzle. It doesn't seem to make any difference, though.
William Sjreckengost Yeah, so not sure why though.
I have had a mix of straight, and curled. I'd assumed it was to do with print temperature or something.
I used this guide to create a Klipper macro to perform this for me.
1. Heat the nozzle to 200C while homing the axes
2. Once up to 200C, slowly extrude 100mm of filament to replace whatever was already in there.
3. At the same time, start heating to 250C.
Once it reaches 250C, it starts the cleaning process:
4. Very slowly extrude 25mm of filament
5. Sit in that state for 5 minutes (or however long you set) to cook the filament
6. Repeat 4 and 5 as many times as you set (3 by default)
7. Unload the filament
8. Brush the head
9. Cool off
Just ordered some. If this works I owe a drink ... I love the Formfutura StoneFill, but ... holy crap, my precious hardened steel nozzle ... (print ended 3 AM, didn't want to stand up). It didn't clog up right away, but it's a great primer for other filament residues ...
Thank you for filming the filament extruding at an angle / bend. I'm experiencing the same issue. I'll try to source some cleaning filament :-)
never had an issue just blasting the nozzle with a torch til red hot, then cooling and doing a cold pull or two. Always results in like new performance, with the side effect of an excuse to play with fire.
Yet another interesting watch,thanks. I saw you switched your nozzle on the prusa. Somehow I am a little bit hesitant to replace it myself,scared to break some wires. Perhaps its an idea for a video, show us how its done and the things to watch out for.
There are plenty of videos around. Just pay some attention and don't be scared of breaking the wires, the heatbreak is way more delicate 😉
You are very right, but then again, it will not be a Stefan video :) I will dare and start this endeavor, as soon as my Mk3 arrives. Want to sell my mk2s and dont want to break things, haha. btw you video about vibrations really helped, I placed a big stone tile, ordered some anti-vibration pads and all is pretty silent now
I always learn so much from your video, thanks a lot for your simple and professional videos.
This video would have helped me 3 month ago - I just bought a new nozzle and hotend for the mini. But the symptoms on my printer were the same as for you - even the same reason.
About your cold-pull technique: I've found that it's easier to do a pull after loosening the idler. At least with the eSun cleaning filament and the PLAs I've had to pull, leaving the idler engaged tends to scrape off too much crap in the hobbed gear, leaving me another maintenance task to deal with before I'm done.
That's a good tip. Unfortunately for the Prusa it's quite some work to remove the idler, so I usually don't do it 😬
CNC Kitchen Understandable. It is a bit of a chore to pull out the calipers and make sure the spacing is just right after putting it back. I've thought about installing a Titan in mine, just to get a lever to push when doing cold pulls.
@@CNCKitchen One of the many things Prusa engineers overlooked that could improve their printers. This is a minor example, but the glaring major omissions make me wonder why their printers with premium prices are so disappointing in so many ways.
@@kevinpezzi6777 bro in the new printer this isn't an issue...
Thank you very much :)
I've tried cleaning filament before with no success. Manual cleaning works far better than any other process ive tried.
+POVadventure What's your preferred way of cleaning out manually?
Thanks for the cool review :)
Auf Wiedersehen!
How often should you change your nozzle?....or at what point should you change it?
Wow great
Have uou done a vid on how to know when to CHANGE a nozzle??
So why wouldn't Acetone or Ethyl Alcohols or similar thinners not dissolve the blockage?
If the filaments baked on, then wouldn't carbonizing the residue be simpler?
Hi Stephen, I was wondering if using a small blow torch on the nozzle after you remove it from the extruder is damaging the nozzle at all? as it seem to extrude any plastic residue stuck at the nozzle.
Not Stephen, but I have a hardened steel nozzle and use a small blowtorch to do just this. Works fine, but be careful not to touch with non-metallic tools or put on a surface not built to withstand heat.
I prefer to buy a 20 pack of 0.4mm nozzles for like 5 bucks and just toss away the old ones.
yep. time is money
davidtriune A nozzle is like 4 bucks
aliexpress sells them for a dime
@@hazoish7670 I always get the cheap chinese nozzles for cents a piece and they work just fine. They are for the most part within tolerance and if not I just use a nozzle cleaning bit to bore them to the correct size.
Carson W234 interesting
Das Filament müsste ich mir auch mal kaufen die haben ihren Standort ja genau bei mir um die ecke XD
Video of factory tour?
2:35 - Bend the frame of the printer at the same time?
Nah, already did that a hundered of times. Everything still fine.
Fred Blogs hi
It's something to pay attention to though. Not neccessarily the frame so much, as to avoid yanking down hard on your hotend/print head when the filament breaks loose.
or just change the nozzle. even printing PLA will eventually wear the inside of the orfice and cause it to enlarge or wear down the external angles, resulting in impossible to control extrusion width nozzles are cheap. i usually change mine on my normal plastic printers every 3rd or 4th roll of PLA.
So what is the advantage of cold-pulling this cleaning material then cold pulling any other material?
You don't cold pull the cleaning filament. You extrude it and it's working on its melted state.
Do you think , There is a difference of quality between an cheap chineese nozzle and a good nozzle (10$) ?
You could use wet nylon to SteamClean your nozzle
That's an interesting thought.
A friend of mine swears by low volume fiber filled nylon, like Cf5/Cf10, for cleaning and maintenance.
He keeps it out in the open and I think it's usually PA6 types, therefore that could actually be a factor why it works well for him.
He uses only HSS or carbide nozzles though.
But since the nozzle was contaminated by ABS residue, why would you not just soak it in acetone?
What's the temperature for ABS cold pull?
+cthulpiss I'd try around 110c.
Not sure but maybe soaking the nozzle in acetone would clean it up, idk if the degeneration changed the chemical properties of the ABS though.
nylon, extrude a bit, cool down to 100-150, pull, repeat
Would some wet nylon do the same trick ?
Nylon is usually a good choice for cold pulls due t it's low friction coefficient. I don't know if the bubbles from a wet filament would help, this cleaning material is definitely a "special composition".
CNC Kitchen .. P.S just want to say, I just discover your video and they are great 👍, thanks for the awesome content. Love the engineering bent on 3D printing.
3dklean - Reinigungsfilament ist auf der Herstellerseite (link oben) nicht mehr lieferbar.
Viele Kommentatoren scheinen die Unterschiede nicht verstanden zu haben zwischen Düsenwechsel und Reinigung. Wer schon ein Hotend zerbrochen hat, weil er die Düse kalt abschrauben wollte oder weil er sich die Finger verbrannt hat, weil er das nicht tat, der muss nur noch die Kalibrierung versaut haben.
Alles vermeidbar mit diesem Reinigungsfilament !
Only 3mm available on eBay
Nozzles are sooo cheap right now, I could buy a pack of 10 for $9 and save $7 from buying Tylenol.
I always try the melt and pull method, but after a couple of try’s and it’s still clogged, I toss the old one and replace it with a new one.
Siema Stefan!
Ich hab bisher zumindest für oberflächliche Verschmutzung nen Feuerzeug und zewa genutzt😂
just soak it in acetone for a day. Works great.
Only works for ABS though?
CNC Kitchen True, but it would've been perfect in the example you used here. I've also found that some acryllic solvent cements work well on PLA. I'm still a huge fan of doing a cold pull with cleaning filament in those cases, unless heat creep sent a glob into the upper throat, though. It's just usually the easiest route.
For PLA use ethyl acetate
@@CNCKitchen Dichloromethane works for all I have tried yet
Just a little bit dangerous though.
Why not just clean it with acetone?
No unless you've got a expensive ass nozzle you spent a ton on you can get bronze nozzles cheap on Amazon for less than a dollar easy
Probably better and cheaper to just replace the nozzle with a new one.
i wear my nozzle out before it needs to be cleaned.
nozzle are dirty cheap...alone with heatbreak.... got like 20 for 4 bucks...
Where'd you get yours from?
any chinese website. banggood, gearbest, aliexpress all do.
Liangshi Xu that's what I wonder are the nozzles cheaper to replace than this 3D clean filament :-) how much is the stuff that's probably a link in the description but I'm on mobile it's a pain I'll check when I get home :-)
Yes, low quality chinese nozzles and heatbreaks are cheap.
Try original E3D nozzles and heatbreak, much better extrusion.
The filament costs more than a bunch of new nozzles. Lol.
acetone plus ultrasonic bath imhoi
At $1.00/nozzle not worth it, just discard after 100hrs of use. Larger nozzles will last longer.
did u ever try to actually clean the nozzle with a needle? cleaning filament is really waste of money if you use pla/abs and use extruders as intended
or you just buy new ones. www.ebay.com/itm/192401502119 20 cents a pop.
There are solvents capable of liquifying ABS without harming brass, steel or tungsten. Why not just soak a badly clogged tip in a solution.
?But for the price of cleaning filament you could get 20+ nozzles
True, if you use stock/brass nozzles. If you use hardened steel nozzles, or speciality nozzles that cost more than what your brass nozzles cost.
bitte mach auch Videos in deutsch
I never cleaned my nossle and works fine But Looks ugly
How about a nozzle for each color you print. Problem solved.
just burn it with a butane torch
Clean Wird Mit "C" geschrieben 😉
Die sind so dumm 😂
Kann man nur so an dich zurückgeben. Während es völlig typisch bei Markennamen ist, manche Buchstaben durch phonetisch gleichartige zu ersetzen bist du wiederum so naiv, zu glauben, der Hersteller wüsste es lediglich nicht besser ;-)
Paul Hamacher Schnauze
Spacer: Volldepp
Spacer Junge blue schreibt man auch mit e und nicht wie in Bluray hat auch was mit geschützten Wörten etc. zu tun
Können wir künstliche Intelligenz dafür nutzten. Ich meine Vorhersagen wie viel und wann wir dieses filament nützen müssen?
Cleaning nozzles is fake, just get them for 20 cents off aliexpress. They are just as good and switch out every 100 hours