Fantastic that should help a lot of people, one thing I suggest to beginners is practice. Get a small battery like an AA and practice measuring voltage across the terminals + & - Red from meter to + Black from meter to - Your volts if battery full will be around 1.5v ( 1.5 ) when you meter is set to DC Volts (Symbol looks like a Straight line with dashes UNDER it), AC is ~ batteries are DC so this is what you need the meter to be set to. If you have the meter connections reversed on the battery you will get a negative value ( -1.5 ). Also play with resistance by turning the meter to Ohms ( Ω ) and hold the Red and Black wires from the meter on the metal ends, you will see the meter change from nothing (0.0000) to a value, this is resistance (You are now the resistance). Low numbers = No connectivity or resistance, Hgh number = some resistance or a good path connection. Now try doing this across all kinds of materials and you will see metals giving a value normally high while most other materials that are dry or non conductive giving nothing, this is continuity. Volts and Ohms are the basics you need to start with the rest will follow. I had an old Avo meter as a kid was easy to understand, digital is a lot better and safer but takes away from a visual representation of what is going on. Oscilloscopes now we are getting into the fun stuff, logic analyzers is where your head goes on melt down LOL.
Thanks Lee.. ive had and used my multi meter for quite a few years now, ive always tested shorts using the ohms setting. After watching this i learned my meter had the beeper for shorts, i just never selected it in the multi function setting..
Hey painless360 I got a frsky qx7 from banggood cause the UK stores were out of stock and I ordered the CN direct international version which is the FCC version will it work in the UK ?
Depends on where it is. I always check the resistance across the battery input terminals on the build before plugging in the battery for the first time. See all of my builds where I show this. I also covered this in the latest 'Community Build' series.. I hope that helps.
Painless360 have the latest ardupulot rover firmware. I though i would have to use the s1 and s3 pins but when i connect a servo they are just putting out a constant signal causing the servo to go full deflection
ardupilot.org/rover/docs/common-matekf405.html covers it but you can see what is output to where in the output mixer now - see my PixHawk 2020 series for more..
Fantastic that should help a lot of people, one thing I suggest to beginners is practice. Get a small battery like an AA and practice measuring voltage across the terminals + & - Red from meter to + Black from meter to - Your volts if battery full will be around 1.5v ( 1.5 ) when you meter is set to DC Volts (Symbol looks like a Straight line with dashes UNDER it), AC is ~ batteries are DC so this is what you need the meter to be set to. If you have the meter connections reversed on the battery you will get a negative value ( -1.5 ). Also play with resistance by turning the meter to Ohms ( Ω ) and hold the Red and Black wires from the meter on the metal ends, you will see the meter change from nothing (0.0000) to a value, this is resistance (You are now the resistance). Low numbers = No connectivity or resistance, Hgh number = some resistance or a good path connection. Now try doing this across all kinds of materials and you will see metals giving a value normally high while most other materials that are dry or non conductive giving nothing, this is continuity. Volts and Ohms are the basics you need to start with the rest will follow. I had an old Avo meter as a kid was easy to understand, digital is a lot better and safer but takes away from a visual representation of what is going on. Oscilloscopes now we are getting into the fun stuff, logic analyzers is where your head goes on melt down LOL.
Thanks Lee.. ive had and used my multi meter for quite a few years now, ive always tested shorts using the ohms setting. After watching this i learned my meter had the beeper for shorts, i just never selected it in the multi function setting..
As usual, great video. Thank you!
Excellent video!
💯Another very very helpful video! Thank you! 🖖
Thanks Mate !! My remote controlled sailboat suddenly stopped working !! I am doing my best to trouble shoot it.
Best of luck sorting it out...
As a complete beginner, I'm still a bit confused, but this is a great crash course to start off!
Watch those other videos mentioned first... ;)
I have learned new things today)
Hey painless360 I got a frsky qx7 from banggood cause the UK stores were out of stock and I ordered the CN direct international version which is the FCC version will it work in the UK ?
It will but only with FCC flashed receivers. You'll need to flash it with LBT firmware to be legal in the EU...
@@Painless360 is it easy to flash LBT
Yep, same as a receiver but select 'internal' instead..
Sir, how do we use the multimeter to understand if there is a short in our build?
Depends on where it is. I always check the resistance across the battery input terminals on the build before plugging in the battery for the first time. See all of my builds where I show this. I also covered this in the latest 'Community Build' series.. I hope that helps.
@@Painless360 thanks
I’m missing the link to the multi meter..
bit.ly/2z4Wxfa Thanks
im trying to use the f405 to control a rover. anyone tell me how to configure and connet the throttle and steering servo
It depends on what firmware you're using... Which one is it?
Painless360 have the latest ardupulot rover firmware. I though i would have to use the s1 and s3 pins but when i connect a servo they are just putting out a constant signal causing the servo to go full deflection
ardupilot.org/rover/docs/common-matekf405.html covers it but you can see what is output to where in the output mixer now - see my PixHawk 2020 series for more..