David, impressive job on setting up precision machining in a home garage environment. It looks like you got the desired result, that being the ultimate test. Well done!
David … I’m a Ghia owner too and was excited to see the thought, humility and ingenuity you showed! Amazing work and an encouragement to not give up! Real quick … what measurement were you using to know it was “overheating”?? Just curious what to keep an eye on. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching. When I would drive at freeway speeds for 10 miles or so, after I exited I would notice the engine oil light would flicker. I attributed that to thin oil due to overheating. Also, when I would begin moving again, I heard some "pinging". However, the most telling is the "dipstick" test. That is, if you can hold the dipstick while you pass it slowly from hand to hand right after you turn it off, then the engine is running OK. My dipstick was much hotter than that. I, by habit, run the dipstick test every time I run the Ghia for more than a few miles (since I have to open up the engine bonnet anyway to disconnect the battery when I put it to bed for a few weeks). So I have a good idea how my Ghia is "feeling".
David, great video. I need to do the same thing to my engine. I will have to watch many more times before I can figure out how you made your drilling jig. A list of parts/measurements would help.
I had the components for the drilling fixture. If I had to buy them, I don't know if I would have done it that way. I might have made a drilling guide that holds the drill at a perfect right angle. Maybe a 3D printed part with steel drill bushings. Good luck!
I have case savers on my 1600cc. But unfortunately after installing the engine I realise my torque wrench was out of torque, so I checked the bottom nuts behind the rocker arm and found out they are torque at 24 ft lb on 8mm studs, so over torque, however I had been test driving the beetle for about 3 miles and they haven't pulled out of the cases, do you think I may just get away with it. As I am a bit concerned. ? Thanks in advance.
Ehhh... 8mm studs are supposed to be tightened to 18 ft. lb. John Muir is pretty firm on only being off 1 ft. lb. on 10mm studs; he says 22 or 23, not 25. Man, this is hard; but I would remove the engine and re-torque to 18 ft.lb. I'm so sorry; , maybe check the other forums. Good luck
The top is a milling attachment for an Atlas 10" lathe. The bottom is from a 7" x 7" Atlas Cross Slide X Y table. They are circa late 60s. Here are a couple eBay links. What's cool is the milling attachment fits on the bottom of the X Y table. www.ebay.com/itm/284496690200?hash=item423d52fc18:g:BWMAAOSwLMthcGid www.ebay.com/itm/284376363954?hash=item423626f3b2:g:5t4AAOSwJNBg9LXW
I did a video on the self tapping studs ( th-cam.com/video/uJ4xNOff4zs/w-d-xo.html ). If you have one or two that are bad and you REALLY don't want to pull the engine, then they will work for a while. They were a lot of work to install properly. However, case savers, IMHO, are the way to go for a permanent solution.
It often is; but my bottom end was really solid and doesn't leak (how many times can you say that about a VW crankcase). Every time you open something up you cause more problems; so this was the right choice for me. The engine has been running great for almost 2 years and still doesn't leak.
well done sir im in the middle of my vw stripped case saver repair your video has helped me my many thanks keep the old vw alive !
Thank you. I love to keep the VW's as stock as possible. Thanks for watching.
David, impressive job on setting up precision machining in a home garage environment. It looks like you got the desired result, that being the ultimate test. Well done!
Thanks Jim. Drove 300 miles on Saturday and the dipstick was very cool, just a little over ambient.
Omg what a great video loved the way you adapted the drilling jig, please keep these vids coming. Keep safe David and huge thanks mate
Thanks, will do!
Nice Work Bloke ,Very Impressive problem solving
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Very interesting David. I like to home precision set up for drilling the holes, very imaginative. Thank you for taking so much trouble with the video.
Glad you enjoyed it, Thanks for watching!
Caught me out with this video. A long way from RPi Pico :) very interesting all the same. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. I've got a lot of interests and I'll have a Pico video soon (I hope).
Nicely done! Encountered this video as I had to deal with spark repair on a different car, thanks!
Thank you very much!
Thank you for the detailed process video.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
David … I’m a Ghia owner too and was excited to see the thought, humility and ingenuity you showed! Amazing work and an encouragement to not give up! Real quick … what measurement were you using to know it was “overheating”?? Just curious what to keep an eye on. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching. When I would drive at freeway speeds for 10 miles or so, after I exited I would notice the engine oil light would flicker. I attributed that to thin oil due to overheating. Also, when I would begin moving again, I heard some "pinging". However, the most telling is the "dipstick" test. That is, if you can hold the dipstick while you pass it slowly from hand to hand right after you turn it off, then the engine is running OK. My dipstick was much hotter than that. I, by habit, run the dipstick test every time I run the Ghia for more than a few miles (since I have to open up the engine bonnet anyway to disconnect the battery when I put it to bed for a few weeks). So I have a good idea how my Ghia is "feeling".
David, great video. I need to do the same thing to my engine. I will have to watch many more times before I can figure out how you made your drilling jig. A list of parts/measurements would help.
I had the components for the drilling fixture. If I had to buy them, I don't know if I would have done it that way. I might have made a drilling guide that holds the drill at a perfect right angle. Maybe a 3D printed part with steel drill bushings. Good luck!
Great job sir. Well made video. I may just have to come up with some kind of way to duplicate that drill fixture.
Thank you! Good luck.
I have case savers on my 1600cc.
But unfortunately after installing the engine I realise my torque wrench was out of torque, so I checked the bottom nuts behind the rocker arm and found out they are torque at 24 ft lb on 8mm studs, so over torque, however I had been test driving the beetle for about 3 miles and they haven't pulled out of the cases, do you think I may just get away with it. As I am a bit concerned. ?
Thanks in advance.
Ehhh... 8mm studs are supposed to be tightened to 18 ft. lb. John Muir is pretty firm on only being off 1 ft. lb. on 10mm studs; he says 22 or 23, not 25. Man, this is hard; but I would remove the engine and re-torque to 18 ft.lb. I'm so sorry; , maybe check the other forums. Good luck
David, what brand/model is your mini milling stand? Link available?
The top is a milling attachment for an Atlas 10" lathe. The bottom is from a 7" x 7" Atlas Cross Slide X Y table. They are circa late 60s. Here are a couple eBay links. What's cool is the milling attachment fits on the bottom of the X Y table.
www.ebay.com/itm/284496690200?hash=item423d52fc18:g:BWMAAOSwLMthcGid
www.ebay.com/itm/284376363954?hash=item423626f3b2:g:5t4AAOSwJNBg9LXW
Hello mr. What is your opinion of th self tappings studs?
I did a video on the self tapping studs ( th-cam.com/video/uJ4xNOff4zs/w-d-xo.html ). If you have one or two that are bad and you REALLY don't want to pull the engine, then they will work for a while. They were a lot of work to install properly. However, case savers, IMHO, are the way to go for a permanent solution.
Very Cool!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir
You're most welcome. Thanks for watching!
That's the most "MacGyver" milling machine I've ever seen
I consider that a great compliment. Thank you!
“H” on those blocks stand for Horrible 😂
Yeah, I know. But you run what you brung. Besides, it isn't bad for being 54 years old. Thanks for watching!
Easier to just split the engine
It often is; but my bottom end was really solid and doesn't leak (how many times can you say that about a VW crankcase). Every time you open something up you cause more problems; so this was the right choice for me. The engine has been running great for almost 2 years and still doesn't leak.