Ah, I notice it was the tongue position that allowed everything to slide up together again. I have found, whenever I do small engine repairs, that the odd word or two helps. The words do not have any mechanical benefit but they do help to relieve the frustration I feel when things just do not quite go right. I pick my moments. When no-one is within earshot. Very helpful advice & tips for anyone contemplating DIY motor maintenance. I notice your subscriptions are creeping up. Good to see.
I like to mention some of the smaller details as they are what often can cause frustration after watching or reading a straight forward guide. The channel is getting solid steady growth so its all good.
Good video thanks man, I pulled my 9.9 apart months ago and was waiting on parts forever, was nice to see everything go back together before I re- assembled mine. -Cheers and fish on!
No boat or outboard here, but anything mechanical - count me in! Workshop, Spanners, and Troy taking things apart = excellent video! Well done mate! ;-)
Eyup Troj. Thanks for the advice fella and after a quick check I find that my nuts are in fact the same size. My word the internet is a fine thing - I learn something new every day. Sithi after, Dave
great infornative video,I have always done everything myself as you know its done properly,i am buying the sane engine this year so was great to see,on to the next video oil change lol.
This is a really good video. A fantastic tutorial. The narration along the way was very well done. I’m going to do this job on my 15 over the next few weeks. Should I replace the green plate gasket when I’m in there? How about the black rubber O-ring? And one final question, how much torque would you estimate that you apply reassembling? A big thanks in advance and if you don’t mind answering the 3 questions assuming you have the time…. Thanks and a big shout out from Canada!
You wont need to tighten to much just past hand tight as your tightening into alloy you dont want to overtighten them, they wont undo. Its best to replace the gasket and O-ring even if its just for peace of mind
@@Trojwaterman I got it all apart - very straightforward. But One of the rubber impeller fins had broken off. And cannot find it anywhere. So I’m thinking it got sucked up into the engine water channeling. What do you recommend?
@@Trojwaterman I also removed the green flat mating gasket. I assumed that needed to be replaced but I guess not. It’s off now, I guess its not too much trouble to put a new one on? Will it seal ok…? Big thanks for answering the questions and your time!
This was a very good educational video Troy, very well done. You know when you said it could go another year, I think in your case it is a good idea to replace it every other year. I was a kid when our impeller crapped out on a brand new motor and we had to paddle a 16' glass boat in through the tide. Anytime you have the leg open consider when you had done the impeller. With that initial corrosion on the housing, is your sacrificial anode in place? Is it worn? That could allow more corrosion if it is gone and it could have corroded away in which case you need another or a larger one in your boat? Obviously you know this but I thought I would mention it here. You did a beautiful job of demonstrating the job. Nice to see you didn't use any words that might since Fish Cat's hair! 😂
I always keep a check on the water pumping plus I have never had one fail instantly I also carry the spare engine . Yes it has the anodes in place but I will replace them this year its probably due to all the wind we have had this year causing the engine to dip in the water all the time when moored
Does it matter which way the little impeller 'paddles' face inside its housing? And, is it worth painting some kind of anti corrosion paint onto the corrosion you pointed at inside around the impeller 'block'?
I always just put them the way they came out but soon as you turn the engine over they will go the right way. No its not worth painting the corrosion it looks a lot worse than it is. A bit of grease smeared over it will slow it down.
Great instructional video ! I noticed that after removing the impeller housing that you removed an O ring but did not see you replace it during re-assembly. Did I miss something?
Thanks for this. I was having cooling water flow issues on my 2016 Suzuki 6hp o/b, just changed the impeller with no noticeable improvement. I feel steady pulse of air at the outflow hole, but that's it. No obstruction at the intake grate or the pipe from the water pump up to the head, so I suppose that means I have to crack the head (& cylinder?) and look for and clear obstruction somewhere in the casting? Any tips?
Hello mate i have water in my lower unit oil and want to change the seals but the Honda BF15A is very old and the frame serial number and model number has been painted over and is illegible - i need to change the seals but cannot order the parts without knowing the above info - can you tell me before i pull it all apart if the parts inside will have numbers on them to enable me to order replacements - thanks
How critical is the o ring around the impeller itself? When I took my BF8D apart the O ring was awol (disintegrated or missing) and I have seen another video where he doesn't have a gasket, or replace it either. I replaced everything without putting one in...
I would have a gasket for sure. As for the o ring I believe its so you don't loose water pressure, weather that happens or not depends on the engine and how tight the parts fit.
Great video! Love a bit of home maintenance. I’m no expert on marine engineering, but would a small amount of gasket sealer be worth applying to limit the corrosion/ crystalline build up? 👍
I don't think that would help as water is always around that area plus you would not want any coming off and possibly blocking where the water pumps around
It should but I have not used muffs for years. I just use a bin or bucket of water. If muffs dont fit tight or you have low water pressure or even with modern thermostats you may not see water come out.
A bucket or bin is best to really get it flushed but I've found that if I use the muffs get them situated and use an Irwin hand clam on them to really keep them in place. You dont wanna crank the bajesus outta the clamp but enough so you can see a nice tight seal around the suction cup deals on the muffs
I would imagine using a torque rench would be an idea with those nuts and bolts, especially because it’s an engine, on car work I torque most not all the work I do. Bearings etc always are torqued 😀
Ah, I notice it was the tongue position that allowed everything to slide up together again. I have found, whenever I do small engine repairs, that the odd word or two helps. The words do not have any mechanical benefit but they do help to relieve the frustration I feel when things just do not quite go right. I pick my moments. When no-one is within earshot. Very helpful advice & tips for anyone contemplating DIY motor maintenance. I notice your subscriptions are creeping up. Good to see.
I like to mention some of the smaller details as they are what often can cause frustration after watching or reading a straight forward guide. The channel is getting solid steady growth so its all good.
Trojs Fishing ,
It's not all fishing with rods is it, its all the other things connected that makes great fishermen like you Troy, very interesting video. 👍
Correct fishing with the rods is the easy bit.
Thank you for this detailed breakdown!
Good video thanks man, I pulled my 9.9 apart months ago and was waiting on parts forever, was nice to see everything go back together before I re- assembled mine.
-Cheers and fish on!
No boat or outboard here, but anything mechanical - count me in! Workshop, Spanners, and Troy taking things apart = excellent video! Well done mate! ;-)
Great video time taken to small details keep up the good work
Great video. Helps us out on our lake vacation in Upstate NY
Eyup Troj. Thanks for the advice fella and after a quick check I find that my nuts are in fact the same size. My word the internet is a fine thing - I learn something new every day. Sithi after, Dave
Good job! Well edited within each step.
great infornative video,I have always done everything myself as you know its done properly,i am buying the sane engine this year so was great to see,on to the next video oil change lol.
Nice Outboards and the high thrust prop helps against any current or tide
This is a really good video. A fantastic tutorial. The narration along the way was very well done. I’m going to do this job on my 15 over the next few weeks. Should I replace the green plate gasket when I’m in there? How about the black rubber O-ring? And one final question, how much torque would you estimate that you apply reassembling? A big thanks in advance and if you don’t mind answering the 3 questions assuming you have the time…. Thanks and a big shout out from Canada!
You wont need to tighten to much just past hand tight as your tightening into alloy you dont want to overtighten them, they wont undo. Its best to replace the gasket and O-ring even if its just for peace of mind
@@Trojwaterman Thank you.
@@Trojwaterman I got it all apart - very straightforward. But One of the rubber impeller fins had broken off. And cannot find it anywhere. So I’m thinking it got sucked up into the engine water channeling. What do you recommend?
@@Trojwaterman I also removed the green flat mating gasket. I assumed that needed to be replaced but I guess not. It’s off now, I guess its not too much trouble to put a new one on? Will it seal ok…? Big thanks for answering the questions and your time!
An excellent video, thank you very much.
This was a very good educational video Troy, very well done. You know when you said it could go another year, I think in your case it is a good idea to replace it every other year. I was a kid when our impeller crapped out on a brand new motor and we had to paddle a 16' glass boat in through the tide. Anytime you have the leg open consider when you had done the impeller.
With that initial corrosion on the housing, is your sacrificial anode in place? Is it worn? That could allow more corrosion if it is gone and it could have corroded away in which case you need another or a larger one in your boat? Obviously you know this but I thought I would mention it here. You did a beautiful job of demonstrating the job. Nice to see you didn't use any words that might since Fish Cat's hair! 😂
I always keep a check on the water pumping plus I have never had one fail instantly I also carry the spare engine . Yes it has the anodes in place but I will replace them this year its probably due to all the wind we have had this year causing the engine to dip in the water all the time when moored
@@Trojwaterman ahhh I didn't think of that! You have a lot of wind there for sure!
Does it matter which way the little impeller 'paddles' face inside its housing? And, is it worth painting some kind of anti corrosion paint onto the corrosion you pointed at inside around the impeller 'block'?
I always just put them the way they came out but soon as you turn the engine over they will go the right way. No its not worth painting the corrosion it looks a lot worse than it is. A bit of grease smeared over it will slow it down.
Great instructional video ! I noticed that after removing the impeller housing that you removed an O ring but did not see you replace it during re-assembly. Did I miss something?
Probably my editing I noticed later there was a clip which did not make it into the video.
@@Trojwaterman Thank you for your quick reply. Thanks to your instructional video I successfully changed out the impeller on my Honda 9.9 today.
Torj does engineering! Nice :-)
Thanks for this. I was having cooling water flow issues on my 2016 Suzuki 6hp o/b, just changed the impeller with no noticeable improvement. I feel steady pulse of air at the outflow hole, but that's it. No obstruction at the intake grate or the pipe from the water pump up to the head, so I suppose that means I have to crack the head (& cylinder?) and look for and clear obstruction somewhere in the casting? Any tips?
I had cooling issues with my 20hp Suzuki it was the thermostat sticking.
@@Trojwaterman That's what it turned out to be with mine as well. Glad I didn't have to dig any deeper in the engine to find the issue.
no gasket between the2 parts??
Yes there is a gasket
Hello mate i have water in my lower unit oil and want to change the seals but the Honda BF15A is very old and the frame serial number and model number has been painted over and is illegible - i need to change the seals but cannot order the parts without knowing the above info - can you tell me before i pull it all apart if the parts inside will have numbers on them to enable me to order replacements - thanks
How critical is the o ring around the impeller itself? When I took my BF8D apart the O ring was awol (disintegrated or missing) and I have seen another video where he doesn't have a gasket, or replace it either. I replaced everything without putting one in...
I would have a gasket for sure. As for the o ring I believe its so you don't loose water pressure, weather that happens or not depends on the engine and how tight the parts fit.
Great video! Love a bit of home maintenance. I’m no expert on marine engineering, but would a small amount of gasket sealer be worth applying to limit the corrosion/ crystalline build up? 👍
I don't think that would help as water is always around that area plus you would not want any coming off and possibly blocking where the water pumps around
Good content but to make the most of your hard work filming it you should invest in some decent lighting. Keep up the good work.
A copper or nickel based anti seize works better on bolts then grease to prevent seizing bolts and corrosion.
Should water come out of hole when hose muff is used?
It should but I have not used muffs for years. I just use a bin or bucket of water. If muffs dont fit tight or you have low water pressure or even with modern thermostats you may not see water come out.
A bucket or bin is best to really get it flushed but I've found that if I use the muffs get them situated and use an Irwin hand clam on them to really keep them in place. You dont wanna crank the bajesus outta the clamp but enough so you can see a nice tight seal around the suction cup deals on the muffs
@@oregon-castnblaster6664 Thks!!
Alat impeler mesin honda 20 peka 4 tak itu barapa?
Saya mau pesan alat mesin,impeker merek bondah 20 peka 4 tak itu barapa?
Mengapa oli keluar dari bagian kipas
Its just water
I personally would never hit the cavitation plate - rubber hammer to the bulge on the gearbox will suffice. Seen too many broken cavitation plates.
I would imagine using a torque rench would be an idea with those nuts and bolts, especially because it’s an engine, on car work I torque most not all the work I do. Bearings etc always are torqued 😀
You could do but all the torque wrenches I have wont fit because of the fin
Like 30# from me 👑💥👑
I think your doing it wrong>