Recently replaced the original bar on my Husqvarna 350 with a 20" Oregon Versa Cut bar and chain combo. So far, WOW! It cuts like a new saw. The old bar is/was rather rough. It is worn unevenly and has heat marks on it where it got really hot from inadequate oiling (I guess). I have learned more about saws and maintenance in the last few weeks watching your videos than in the previous 40 years! It is a wonder any of the saws I have used are still alive. Keep up the great work and informative videos!
That was a timely video for me. I’ve been casually shopping for a lighter weight bar but haven’t pulled the trigger because I’m cheap and it’s not really “need.” But I’m fairly certain my ms362cm would handle a lot nicer with something other than the tough but heavy ES bar. I’ve looked at the Versacut, mostly because of your videos but a couple things have held me back: 1). Lack of user data - this video is the only meaningful info I’ve found on these bars performing over time under heavy use. And it’s a pretty nice data point. Daily use by an actual logger. 2). Price - the $60ish I’d spend on a 20” Stihl .063. For a few bucks more I could buy the Tsumura lightweight. For whatever reason the Husky mount Versacuts can be had way cheaper. If I could buy one of those for less than $50, I’d probably do it. That was a lot of words. Nice video.
Mr. Walt, I had the same thing happen on my 2095 with tygon line that pulses from the cylinder, I had to swap to the rubber fuel line from echo or Stihl. Doesn't have as low of a melt point.
As a product tester for Blount, I had a prototype of one of these bars awhile back. In a long ripping cut, it developed a crack just behind the rear-most rivet in the nose, from the edge of the rail in to the rivet itself, on only one side. I was not told what I was testing specifically, except that it had to do with the nose. It was interesting to me, with that small bit of information, that it was near the nose that the failure occurred. I believe it had ~25 hours on it when it developed the crack. I called for instructions, and they asked me to send it back in for autopsy. I will be curious to see how future bars behave, and if my testing experience helped any.
We've had five or six between Matt, another logger who tests for me and myself with the kind of time that bar has, no issues of any kind. Watch the video where he was bucking logs with the xpw build to understand he plunge cuts everything every time. Felling and bucking. Everything we have is hard wood. Maple, Ash, Oak, Cherry. I always caution folks about the sample of one concept painting a picture for all of a given class. We are into a sample of fifteen or even more with 5 approaching that point where they have been deburred a couple of times and the wear in the guide is becoming noticeable with excellent results. AND as compared to other bars lighter and cheaper with no discernable characteristic that says move to the more expensive option. Pretty close to saying I could endorse these, but will wait until early next year where the sample set is past ten before doing that officially. For me, I've made the change. All the Power Matches and Total ( Tsumara's) are going down the road either thru saw's being sold off or at the auction. Matt went off and bought 5 of them. All 24's. I run the 20's.
afleetcommand I run the Versa cut’s as well and have sold quite a few. Everyone says they are good bar and can’t beat the price. I wish they made a 28” and a 24” K095 mount as well. Good video
I just had a short 15" bar on a 550 de-laminate from the tail to just past the end of the bar slot in a week which surprised me as the 20" has done a fair amount of rough work and no problems. Didn't put me off as they are , for a laminate bar, good value and seem to last well.
Dumping out the gas from the tank will not get it out of the carb. You have to disassemble the carb to get the water out of it. It will always stay in the carb,otherwise.
Walt now that it's getting warmer have you had any cooling issues with your xt to oe using xt plastic? Just wanted to know if it's a viable option still in your mind.
@@afleetcommand i have stihl fs, for 8 yrs, i have used 50-1 and, if i use 40-1 it wount idle, with more oil i think it wount even start. Tnx for rpl, i love your videos. I have 038avs for rebuld wish me luck...
Recently replaced the original bar on my Husqvarna 350 with a 20" Oregon Versa Cut bar and chain combo. So far, WOW! It cuts like a new saw. The old bar is/was rather rough. It is worn unevenly and has heat marks on it where it got really hot from inadequate oiling (I guess). I have learned more about saws and maintenance in the last few weeks watching your videos than in the previous 40 years! It is a wonder any of the saws I have used are still alive. Keep up the great work and informative videos!
That was a timely video for me. I’ve been casually shopping for a lighter weight bar but haven’t pulled the trigger because I’m cheap and it’s not really “need.” But I’m fairly certain my ms362cm would handle a lot nicer with something other than the tough but heavy ES bar.
I’ve looked at the Versacut, mostly because of your videos but a couple things have held me back:
1). Lack of user data - this video is the only meaningful info I’ve found on these bars performing over time under heavy use. And it’s a pretty nice data point. Daily use by an actual logger.
2). Price - the $60ish I’d spend on a 20” Stihl .063. For a few bucks more I could buy the Tsumura lightweight. For whatever reason the Husky mount Versacuts can be had way cheaper. If I could buy one of those for less than $50, I’d probably do it.
That was a lot of words. Nice video.
My best saw is the one I use daily without failures for three years. Normal maintenance is the key. Brand is not a big deal to me its dependability
Mr. Walt, I had the same thing happen on my 2095 with tygon line that pulses from the cylinder, I had to swap to the rubber fuel line from echo or Stihl. Doesn't have as low of a melt point.
As a product tester for Blount, I had a prototype of one of these bars awhile back. In a long ripping cut, it developed a crack just behind the rear-most rivet in the nose, from the edge of the rail in to the rivet itself, on only one side. I was not told what I was testing specifically, except that it had to do with the nose. It was interesting to me, with that small bit of information, that it was near the nose that the failure occurred. I believe it had ~25 hours on it when it developed the crack. I called for instructions, and they asked me to send it back in for autopsy. I will be curious to see how future bars behave, and if my testing experience helped any.
We've had five or six between Matt, another logger who tests for me and myself with the kind of time that bar has, no issues of any kind. Watch the video where he was bucking logs with the xpw build to understand he plunge cuts everything every time. Felling and bucking. Everything we have is hard wood. Maple, Ash, Oak, Cherry. I always caution folks about the sample of one concept painting a picture for all of a given class. We are into a sample of fifteen or even more with 5 approaching that point where they have been deburred a couple of times and the wear in the guide is becoming noticeable with excellent results. AND as compared to other bars lighter and cheaper with no discernable characteristic that says move to the more expensive option. Pretty close to saying I could endorse these, but will wait until early next year where the sample set is past ten before doing that officially. For me, I've made the change. All the Power Matches and Total ( Tsumara's) are going down the road either thru saw's being sold off or at the auction. Matt went off and bought 5 of them. All 24's. I run the 20's.
afleetcommand
I run the Versa cut’s as well and have sold quite a few. Everyone says they are good bar and can’t beat the price. I wish they made a 28” and a 24” K095 mount as well.
Good video
I really do wonder what it was that I tested. I suspect bearing material.
I just had a short 15" bar on a 550 de-laminate from the tail to just past the end of the bar slot in a week which surprised me as the 20" has done a fair amount of rough work and no problems. Didn't put me off as they are , for a laminate bar, good value and seem to last well.
@@afleetcommand So have you made the endorsement yet?
I think the sprocket and or bearing are about done. The chain should not contact the rails at the nose.
Dumping out the gas from the tank will not get it out of the carb. You have to disassemble the carb to get the water out of it. It will always stay in the carb,otherwise.
I see you use the best brake cleaner out there (Macs 4700). I use the same stuff and it is the best.
Walt now that it's getting warmer have you had any cooling issues with your xt to oe using xt plastic? Just wanted to know if it's a viable option still in your mind.
Not to this point, but most of the ones I stuck together have OE covers.
What f/o mixture you are making for hyway cylinder?
I run 32:1 on everything I run. With the Husqvarna XP oil. 40:1 was used by the logger running that saw with Husqvarna XP
@@afleetcommand i have stihl fs, for 8 yrs, i have used 50-1 and, if i use 40-1 it wount idle, with more oil i think it wount even start. Tnx for rpl, i love your videos. I have 038avs for rebuld wish me luck...
That's not a problem with the mix :)
Mate!!!! Nice.😆