LEI-8001DMX LED Light Engine Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Here's something different to repair, a LEI LED Engine. I've never seen one of these before but can I work out what is wrong with it?
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Richard
At first brief glance a Luminus CSM-360 LED. Usually attached with thermal paste (datasheet from Luminus), though there may also be a thermal pad underneath the copper backplate. There appears to be mounting or registration pins (in your video), they can also be screwed from the back so probably worth removing all screws, pillars etc.
Nice. What search terms did you use, I tried everything marked on the LED module
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Search what he said, comes right up..... CSM-360 LED 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Started with Phlatlight led which showed the Luminus modules. The Cree reference pointed (sort of) to which module, though there are (were) three available, the data plate may help to identify which one (3000K, 4000K, 6000K). Luminus datasheet for CSM-360 shows versions (some on AliExpress 30 Euros each). More luck than judgement (though I use Cree regularly in my designs) and more free time than you have, I suspect.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair "Discontinued product", not much option to buy. I would say don't get too hung up on the 55W rating, extract from the data sheet "PhlatLight CSM-360 devices are production tested at 3.15 A. The
values shown at 6.3 A are for additional reference at other possi-
ble drive conditions." Sounds to me like - tested and guaranteed at around 50W but can go up to about 100W at cost of heat/lifespan and we all know what chinese power claims are like when they want to sell something like this, claim 120W divide by 2 minus 10% LOL.
The Luminus CSM-360. Has quite a nice datasheet good catch by your viewers !....cheers.
Thanks Richard another great diagnosis. Hit it with a hammer 😂....or try unscrewing those standoffs? Idk you got nothing to lose
Like everyone else, I've found CSM-360.
Mouser says the drive current is variable from
What you have there between the L.E.D. and the heatsink on the back is likely a thermal transfer epoxy/thermal adhesive. There's an explanation of the make-up and use the material right here on TH-cam. As TH-cam will block my message for using a URL I'll tell you to seek out the Video "DID WE JUST MAKE THE WORLD'S BEST THERMAL PASTE!?" on the channel Tech Ingredients right here on TH-cam.
I suspect that were you to source an O.E.M. repair/replacement part you'd discover you receive the C.O.B. L.E.D. pre-mounted on a new heatsink. The only method of which I'm aware to loosen a resin epoxy is to heat the material, so...maybe in an SMD oven you could heat the heatsink/part hot enough to loosen the epoxy enough to release the bond. You might also attempt the chore with your hot-air desoldering machine, but I'm doubtful. Short of those I think you stuck heating the assembly sans secondary parts with a butane/mapp torch.
I’ve come across components glued on with heat transfer cement. You can break the bond by forcing an implement between. Clean up the debris left. Attach the new part using the 2part adhesive, it ain’t cheap, I paid over £60 for a small tube with activator, that was from RS components. I can’t remember the exact name as it was the company I worked for that bought it.
I've worked on a few of this type of unit most of the LED's are held on with screws but the odd one or were held on with high temp double sided tape same some TV backlight strips and they can be pain to remove.
I expect it’s glued on with thermal epoxy. I would try to knock it off with a sharp chisel to break the glue bond. You can make your own thermal epoxy by mixing thermal paste and epoxy (surprising but it works) but since this unit is fairly high power and expensive it might be worth buying the proper stuff.
Richard can you not phone / email Luminus who make the Phatlight and ask them about the LED you have ? I did search their website but they don't seem to list the exact LED you have (Maybe made for the company who made the light or discontinued eitherway they may suggest a replacement !!) cool vid as always !!
You could try acetone it may soften the glue . It works for superglue
Hi Richard, I made a screenshot and did an Android Google Lens Image search and it led me to the Luminus CSM-360.
Clever 😁
Found on ebay under "New Original Luminus phlatlight CSM-360 6500K / 3000K / blue LED high power"
Identical to yours!
What I don't understand is why there is a built in thermistor on that LED but they use one connected to the heatsink instead - why not just design with what the LED offers?
Maybe because it measures the temperature of the heat sink, especially during the cool-down period.
try soaking it with acetone for long enough, also i think the model of led is Luminus Big Chip LEDs CBM-360, there exist datasheet in the internet
There is a video
How to remove Heatsink glued with thermal adhesive -
put it in the freezer for 12 hours and twist it off.
Heya, hope I'll find you parts and show use itt's workking
Yes, it look like CBM-360, mouser have datasheet for it... Vf is 15V thats good, but current is 6A on that Beast
(edited after see another comments, maybe CSM-360, is also to be consider, it looks that difference is the lens)
For some reasons I cannot add here link to the data sheet 😢
What search terms did you use to find that, I tried everything marked on the LED module
Samsung AI from picture.... but if you want to search it try this: luminus big chip cbm-360
the number on that led is unfortunately the serial number, not product code
That LED power cable looked very pinched?
Sequentially, on large lighting systems, there’s a tendency to skip one in between light fittings by installers. Any idea why?
Thanks! It's not possible to know if the led is not working with the multimeter?
In this particular case, no. That LED requires at least 11V at 1A. Most multimeters will output considerably lower voltages / currents than that.
Bonded using thermal epoxy? Pry it off.
Sorry i missed it but did you have the power supply voltage? Check in the item description for whic wattages use which voltages. Does anyone know of any good led replacements for 250W projector lamps, the ones with the reflector (and two round push pins 24V?) Was thinking to try some car led headlamps.
15V
Richard Digi-key has them CBM-360 LUMINUS company
How did you work out that is the part number? I tried everything marked on it and got nowhere. You obviously found something I missed, where did I go wrong?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I just searched it on Digi-Key and there it was
Dif topic but this is your latest video.. All so where the heck do I get Asus laptop board components? Looking for a 12022-00133300 hdmi connector. I can see listed on official Asus part website but it's almost $80 just for shipping Alone to Australia. Ive spent days scouring the Web and crawlers and eBay etc. Even tried to find cheap donor boards. help 😊
For things like HDMI connector I tend to do a generic search and them look at the pictures. Someone on this video comments about the LED I couldn't find
'I made a screenshot and did an Android Google Lens Image search and it led me to the Luminus CSM-360'
Maybe that would help you?
To remove the led I would try heat and a long craft knife or cold and a twist or knife. If it still refuses, it's hammer time.. To refit Thermal Glue on ali express.
Seeing as this thing gets very hot in use, I'm not sure how heating it would help to un-glue it....
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I just ment the same way heat sinks on xbox's cpu and gpu. they also get very hot , but it works on them..
👌👌👍👍
3m had a epoxy type of thermal paste we used for industrial non fan computer systems. Industrial automation. Data sheet. I used Digi key and avnet was local and 24/7/365 international airport. I'm going to say contact mfgr and see if they just swap out the heatsink as a module and no headaches.n. 4th of July and Independence celebration so 🎉