Here's two more cents worth from the comment gallery. I think you have a good idea connecting the two sub-frame rails to the convertible's support bracket and I also agree with @crashwrtr's thoughts regarding ride quality. So instead of welding brackets directly to the unibody include polyurethane (or rubber) body mount bushings. The first thing that comes to mind would be to mount two polyurethane bushing to convertible support plate using it's two center bolts/holes, then construct and attach a "removable cross brace" that connects to the sub-frame connectors and the convertible's support bracket via the new bushings. (very similar to the front torque arm bracket on JoDaddy's Brooklyn Pony project) Great video as always Wally! Thanks for sharing.
thank you, i appreciate the ideas. Once I get the two connectors temporarily in place I will better understand clearances and options. My honey-do list got in the way today so did not work on the car.
Those would have been great 44 years ago when I had my '65 Mustang Convertible. Lots of ten year old Mustang Convertibles in the "rust belt" of northeast USA quickly had trouble with the doors closing properly. It took very little rust on the inner rocker panels for the car to begin collapsing inward. The curse of a lack of a full frame. Lots of those early Mustangs, if you looked under the car, had angle iron welded to connect the front and rear subframes. (I discovered this weak link on mine, the first time I put the top down, loaded in four passengers, and went to McDonald's for a hamburger. Gee, the doors won't close!)
I remember my 68 fastback back in 1977 had no floors left and the carpet was the only thing between me and the road. we loaded up 5 people in it one night and drove to Wasaga Beach for the night. Amazed we all survived our youth. I am happy with these and hope it stops any deflection in the body.
Thank you guys, well built piece slipped right on to the frames. Simply adjust them to get them parallel to the body and weld in. I know it will greatly reduce any body flex that was so prevalent in these convertibles.
Glad to see you changed your mind on adding the extra bracing to the frame connectors. It seemed like overkill to me considering the vehicle is going to be used for driving pleasure and not road racing. Most people don't understand just how much an auto body can flex therefore requiring support to both front and rear suspension, on both sides, when replacing structural panels and rails. Of course, this is especially true when working on a convertible or long vehicles. Excellent point on drilling holes to insure hinges are reattached back to original position. This can save much door alignment time when a door has been removed. This isn't always possible to do with the fenders in place however. Very informative video.
Thank you , I appreciate the feedback and agree with simply welding them in the way they are. As far as drilling the hinges I did that specifically as I am going to paint in the "C" stripe and therefore the doors MUST be able to get back to the same position repeatedly as I remove and replace them probably 2 or 3 times during the painting process.
I slept on it and will reserve final judgment for when the bar is in. I know the bar is great at stopping compression/stretching which will hep with deflection of the sub frames but a bar can still bend. third contact point would reduce bar bend as well. Man this is tough, I hear horror stories about convertibles folding and door gaps and paint chips and you can see my dilemma...
@@68mustangrestoration34 This is the way I see your situation, you want the vehicle to be safe and dependable so you can relax as you are tooling around traveling to various sites of interest. Nowhere has it been mentioned that any serious drag or road racing are included in your plans. If my assumption is correct, why overbuild? The body is basically rust free and is as strong as it was when it was new and with the added frame connectors it will be even stronger. The horror stories probably relate to bodies due to weak rusted panels and vehicle abuse. Just my thoughts and I encourage you to do what you feel will be best for your peace of mind. Think it over and good luck!
@@crashwrtr6078 AS you can tell, I am still on fence and will pass final judgement once both are in place (not welded) and will see if there is any advantage to extra welds. Sometimes I think " might as well" while it is apart instead of later when it is all welded. Again once in place I will be about to tell if additional welds are even worth it.
It would be very easy to use a piece of 2"x2"x3/16" steel angle to attach the subframe connector to the cross brace. I would make it about 4 to 5" long and cut a U shaped slot for the subframe connector to slide into. You could start with a hole saw the same diameter as the connector, then cut the straight part of the slot with a cutting wheel or saw. Radius the corners to make it look professional and keep it from cutting your head. Fit it all together on the car and tack weld the angle to the subframe connector, then pull it back off and weld the angle to the subframe connector. Then put it back in place and weld the angle to the cross brace and weld the ends of the subframe connector.
Ah, I see your vision. I know I am flipping back and forth on this but if I can improve rigidity , why not. I understand the design of the bar is to stop compression / stretching therefore reduce deflection of the subframes but since it is a bar is will not have any horizontal resistance to movement. I believe tying the bar to the frame at a third point will help stop "bending" and increase rigidity. Lot to think about.. Thank you
@@68mustangrestoration34 glad to help. I noticed some of the Fox body subframe connectors have a crossbar that connects to two of the seat bolts. So, yours would be similar except that it would be welded.
@@Welder-4956 Yes, Barry at Jo Daddy's garage installed a subframe including cross member in Brookland pony, It ties the outer supports to the center plate as well as each other, we can use the under carriage to do the same thing. Thank you
I agree, first is to balance the springs and level the car. The subframe connectors were easy and absolutely reduce roll and sag especially with convertible
Thank you . It is always good to hear of another success. I had never purchased these before so no idea if I bought good or bad ones. I am happy with the fit and quality of their product
Here's two more cents worth from the comment gallery. I think you have a good idea connecting the two sub-frame rails to the convertible's support bracket and I also agree with @crashwrtr's thoughts regarding ride quality. So instead of welding brackets directly to the unibody include polyurethane (or rubber) body mount bushings. The first thing that comes to mind would be to mount two polyurethane bushing to convertible support plate using it's two center bolts/holes, then construct and attach a "removable cross brace" that connects to the sub-frame connectors and the convertible's support bracket via the new bushings. (very similar to the front torque arm bracket on JoDaddy's Brooklyn Pony project) Great video as always Wally! Thanks for sharing.
thank you, i appreciate the ideas. Once I get the two connectors temporarily in place I will better understand clearances and options. My honey-do list got in the way today so did not work on the car.
Those would have been great 44 years ago when I had my '65 Mustang Convertible. Lots of ten year old Mustang Convertibles in the "rust belt" of northeast USA quickly had trouble with the doors closing properly. It took very little rust on the inner rocker panels for the car to begin collapsing inward. The curse of a lack of a full frame. Lots of those early Mustangs, if you looked under the car, had angle iron welded to connect the front and rear subframes. (I discovered this weak link on mine, the first time I put the top down, loaded in four passengers, and went to McDonald's for a hamburger. Gee, the doors won't close!)
I remember my 68 fastback back in 1977 had no floors left and the carpet was the only thing between me and the road. we loaded up 5 people in it one night and drove to Wasaga Beach for the night. Amazed we all survived our youth. I am happy with these and hope it stops any deflection in the body.
Great Video! Love all the detail! Enjoy the all the features of the 911C. Excited for the build!
Thank you guys, well built piece slipped right on to the frames. Simply adjust them to get them parallel to the body and weld in. I know it will greatly reduce any body flex that was so prevalent in these convertibles.
Excellent suggestion. I'll do that for my doors. Thanks for the suggestion.
Glad to see you changed your mind on adding the extra bracing to the frame connectors. It seemed like overkill to me considering the vehicle is going to be used for driving pleasure and not road racing.
Most people don't understand just how much an auto body can flex therefore requiring support to both front and rear suspension, on both sides, when replacing structural panels and rails. Of course, this is especially true when working on a convertible or long vehicles.
Excellent point on drilling holes to insure hinges are reattached back to original position. This can save much door alignment time when a door has been removed. This isn't always possible to do with the fenders in place however.
Very informative video.
Thank you , I appreciate the feedback and agree with simply welding them in the way they are. As far as drilling the hinges I did that specifically as I am going to paint in the "C" stripe and therefore the doors MUST be able to get back to the same position repeatedly as I remove and replace them probably 2 or 3 times during the painting process.
I slept on it and will reserve final judgment for when the bar is in. I know the bar is great at stopping compression/stretching which will hep with deflection of the sub frames but a bar can still bend. third contact point would reduce bar bend as well. Man this is tough, I hear horror stories about convertibles folding and door gaps and paint chips and you can see my dilemma...
@@68mustangrestoration34 This is the way I see your situation, you want the vehicle to be safe and dependable so you can relax as you are tooling around traveling to various sites of interest. Nowhere has it been mentioned that any serious drag or road racing are included in your plans. If my assumption is correct, why overbuild? The body is basically rust free and is as strong as it was when it was new and with the added frame connectors it will be even stronger. The horror stories probably relate to bodies due to weak rusted panels and vehicle abuse. Just my thoughts and I encourage you to do what you feel will be best for your peace of mind. Think it over and good luck!
@@crashwrtr6078 AS you can tell, I am still on fence and will pass final judgement once both are in place (not welded) and will see if there is any advantage to extra welds. Sometimes I think " might as well" while it is apart instead of later when it is all welded. Again once in place I will be about to tell if additional welds are even worth it.
It would be very easy to use a piece of 2"x2"x3/16" steel angle to attach the subframe connector to the cross brace. I would make it about 4 to 5" long and cut a U shaped slot for the subframe connector to slide into. You could start with a hole saw the same diameter as the connector, then cut the straight part of the slot with a cutting wheel or saw. Radius the corners to make it look professional and keep it from cutting your head. Fit it all together on the car and tack weld the angle to the subframe connector, then pull it back off and weld the angle to the subframe connector. Then put it back in place and weld the angle to the cross brace and weld the ends of the subframe connector.
Ah, I see your vision. I know I am flipping back and forth on this but if I can improve rigidity , why not. I understand the design of the bar is to stop compression / stretching therefore reduce deflection of the subframes but since it is a bar is will not have any horizontal resistance to movement. I believe tying the bar to the frame at a third point will help stop "bending" and increase rigidity. Lot to think about.. Thank you
@@68mustangrestoration34 glad to help. I noticed some of the Fox body subframe connectors have a crossbar that connects to two of the seat bolts. So, yours would be similar except that it would be welded.
@@Welder-4956 Yes, Barry at Jo Daddy's garage installed a subframe including cross member in Brookland pony, It ties the outer supports to the center plate as well as each other, we can use the under carriage to do the same thing. Thank you
Good stuff.
$200 now as I am strongly leaning towards doing this to my car. I just did the leaf springs car was high on passenger side sitting even again.
I agree, first is to balance the springs and level the car. The subframe connectors were easy and absolutely reduce roll and sag especially with convertible
Why not add a piece of support between the frame support rails?
might be an option, I will be test fitting both connectors and take a look as to what is the best option to tie them to the car. thank you
Put the global west on my Fastback. Nice set up.
Thank you . It is always good to hear of another success. I had never purchased these before so no idea if I bought good or bad ones. I am happy with the fit and quality of their product