It's fine to experiment with cheap stuff when you're younger, and you'll probably look good in cheaper clothes, but there's comes a point when it's time to upgrade. Being a bit more disciplined about exercise and diet is necessary also. When you're older you want people to look at the clothes not you!
I picked up a black Pea Coat in charity shop yesterday for £8. Fits perfect. I also saw a lovely Harris Tweed jacket for £5! Still had labels on. Sadly too small for me but a bargain for someone. Years ago I never looked in charity shops. Since retiring it become almost a hobby.
I done the same, (i'm a bit colour blind for dark colours, I swear its black but everyone tells me its dark blue lol) I was in Norfolk about 8 years back and I stumbled into a second hand shop, as I'm always on the look out for Tweed jackets, gloves and scarves on the cheap, tucked in with the jackets was the peacoat in large in pristine condition, tried it on, perfect fit. I asked how much expecting £50+ and the lady said £15. I gave her £20, it's been my goto winter coat since, it was even worn this morning for the dog walk. Amazing coats that always gets compliments.
I agree 100% in relation to quality footwear, not only from a visual perspective but if you wear quality footwear your feet will definitely thank you later in life.
Exactly how I started at about 35 (Changing from ultra casual like wearing trainers everyday to the sartorial smart casual basics, brown shoes, navy sports jacket, tucked in shirts etc) The clothing I first got were Cheap and they simply didn't last long at all. I didn't learn my lesson with suits, I bought 3 cheap suits in the space of nearly 7 years that were ill fitting, massive on the shoulders and arms making me look not too sharp at all, buying a tailored suit is one of the best purchases made. Makes me feel a million bucks.
I like the look of overcoats. But it doesn't really get that cold here in the Southern California Valleys. Sometimes you just need a long sleeve shirt in the wintertime.
In fairness gents, even in the UK, you only need them if you live in a city and walk a bit. I live in the Midlands and you go from heated house, to climate controlled car and finally air conditioned offices. I have a trench coat for if it's bucketing it down, but rarely need a thick outer layer over a suit jacket.
A tip on dress shirts. When buying, ask yourself “Will this shirt go well with a pair of jeans as well as a suit?” You’ll find that a smallish number of well-chosen colors and patterns will go a long way!
After much experimentation (and paying significant school dues), I can confidently state that it is better to invest in quality. It is all part of the style journey. I would rather have one incredibly beautiful and functional garment that will endure the test of time than several inferior-grade pieces that will wither, fray, and disintegrate after a few wearings. But, hey, that's just me.
I am so glad that you mentioned the price. I agree with you. eBay, outlet malls and thrift shops are the well dressed man's friend. I do the same and avoid to pay the full retail price. Over the years I came up with the motto: Do not go cheap on quality, go cheap on the price instead and look for the best possible price.
Very well done. This applies to about everything. I have high quality tools that are well over 40 years old that I still use. The difference with high quality is it can be repaired, serviced and rebuilt to like new. Low quality usually ends up in the garbage. Buy once…cry once.
Me being me, I'd add a watch. I think a quality watch ( coyld be 2nd hand or inherited) is worth the sacrifice. Some say a dive watch goes with a tuxedo ( should one wear a watch with this?) - not sure ; a date just or cartier tank ( even by Seiko) , I think works well with a suit.
Almost everything i wear is 2nd hand. I make exception for clothes that are in close contact like shirts. A used, high quality silk tie, will ooze so much class. I think a suit looks better distressed and used. My advice would be go new for socks, shirt and underwear. The rest can be 2 hand. I have just bought a Saville Row 3 pieces suit , cut in the 60´s for 125£. It’s more a matter of teaching yourself what man style is.. love your channel Ash
Recently discovered your channel, and I just wanted to thank you for all the good tips and useful knowledge you give out. I really enjoy watching your videos and learning about style!
This was superb! I have Herno overcoat, the baracuta harrington and a gloverall duffle coat as my jackets 💙 Also a tailord Ralph lauren suit, white and blue quality shirts, and a lot of oxfords shirts, for pants chinos and courderoys 😊😊 And only wool/cashmere cardigan and sweaters
For the younger chap who’s not yet got to much to spend or more the frugal gent wanting a nice formal gold watch take a look at the older Garrard watches. Good Swiss movements and comparatively affordable. Garrard have an impressive client list too!
Great video Ash. I am a big thrift store fan and have purchased quite a few great items at them. I bought a Barbour back in the 80s when not many people here knew what they were. I still wear it hunting and it could use some patching but it still does the job. I found the wife a Barbour international motorcycle jacket for $40 brand new at the thrift shop. It can be done just be persistent. Best regards Ron
Another brilliant video, Ash - however, you surely made a slip-of-the-tongue when you said, at 08:02 "...they don't have that awful, worn-out look that natural materials do over time". I'm sure you meant to say, "...that ARTIFICIAL materials [e.g. polyester, terylene, etc.] do..."
Although I totally agree with you that you should not buy cheap. Quality does not need to be expensive. The key is KNOW YOUR SIZE. Especially in shoes. I have purchased barker shoes off eBay for almost a quarter of the price of new, and there are many many videos on TH-cam that will show you how you can breath new life into them. This allows you to customise your shoes too.
I think it’s horses for courses….a gradual generation transition….fashion and youth has always been a fickle combination…if I told my son to buy a tailored suit, leather brogues , trilby hat and an overcoat instead of the jeans and trainers ( not so ruddy cheap either!)that he and all his mates wear , then he’d just laugh!….I think if I transported myself by Time Machine back to face the 20 yr old me I would probably do the same!…..I agree about quality…but style and social acceptance within the age groups you move in at the time of your life are a powerful force…..Great vid Ash….as a man in my late 50’s I agree wholeheartedly with your recommendations! 😉👍
Not on the same subject, but wish you would do some reviews on books your reading. I’ve read some that you have shown briefly. Would like to know your thoughts?😊
Many years ago, I bought some shoes at Nordstrom’s (a US department store that sold high end stuff, and started out as a shoe shop). The shoes are (still have them) Goodyear welted. The shoe salesman emphasized that and told me that Goodyear tires last 50,000 miles or more, so Goodyear welted shoes would last a long time, too. I am still laughing about that. The shoes are good, The salesman was a moron.
Expensive clothes wear out just as fast as inexpensive ones: Gant designer wear and especially Barbour jackets: The jackets are around £250 and I have about 5 I have been wearing and 5 I have not worn or use for best. The 5 in uses look like rags with holes and tears in: They have been repaired a couple of times before. Holes appear in the sleeves and other high friction areas within a couple of months because of the natures of waxed cotton forming ridges which accelerates the wear from friction. The same with Gant wear: I liked the pants and multicoloured shirts: Pants are about £120 and shorts £60. They wear out really quickly. I tend to buy jeans from supermarkets now. You need to buy affordable clothes that are evidently well made from good material. That’s how Lance Stroll’s Dad, Lawrence made his money in fashion wear: Tommy Hillfigger and Ralph Lauren as well, I think: They reduced the quality and reduced the price slightly. He owns Aston Martin F1 and his son, Lance Stroll is a driver with the Spanish F1 ex-champion Fernando Alonso.
It's a slippery slope, one they reduce the quality they effectively enter a different category of quality and many of us, myself included, chase the quality and not the label.
So just what CAN one go cheap on? The only item item I can think of that you haven't mentioned as something a chap can't go cheap on is a chap's unmentionables.
Back in the day, it was the done thing to have suits & sports jackets & slacks to be made to measure at a proper tailors shop ,even for the working class . People made the effort back then , not like now men & women in scruffy sports or casual gear . I found it is always better to purchase a few quality items ,than go cheap & purchase a multitude of lesser quality items . The problem was in some of the places I found anyone wearing a suit ,was automatically assumed to be the accused on the way to the local magistrates for sentence , on the way to a funeral wedding or christening . Unless you are in the financial area of a city ,or at a function ,wearing suits & classic chaps attire, unfortunately these days ,one is treated & looked on ,as if they just arrived from a different planet . Also one is likely to get accosted by ruffians ,& is left with no choice but to resort to dealing out a lesson ,Marquis of Queensbury style . This sustaining damage to one’s wardrobe collection . Standards are definitely lacking in some areas ,these days, I am glad we have chaps, like you about ,to show & remind us that good chaps standards can still be achieved ,with a little savvy & an eye for quality .👍
You are correct sir. A suit these days suggests the wearer is out of the ordinary and this causes interest from the wider proletariat. But this is perhaps why we chose to dress with passion - so we do stand out.
My grandpa only had 7 pairs of shoes.But each pair was handcrafted and made specially for him.The same with suits , I remember that he had 9.But each one tailored , that he could even use when he was very old.He used to say (in Spanish) : lo barato sale caro. (Cheap things end up being more expensive because you have to replace them more often than quality items). Excellent video as always , Ash.
I own two Barbours , an original Beaufort and an original Cowan Commando ( * original = made in South Shields ) Both are well over 24 years old now and stand the rest of time , live in the car boot and can dress down in the field in boots or dress up with a suit in winter . I bought them years ago before they became fashion pieces and had a phase of never wearing them but now well into my 50’s find they feel and look natural now , compared to trying to pull off looking like a teenager again . Pound for pound the best investment I made for sure .
You are absolutely correct in what you are stating here. When I got my 1st ever job my Father took me to a Taylor to get me measured up for a suit (which I remember thinking was surely over the top for a junior staff member). The actual Manager came up to me the week in which I started to privately compliment me on how I looked, which did exactly what you said it would do…filled me full of self confidence.
Yes Ash. Wool, wool and only wool will do for Autumn/Winter. I must say, man made materials make me sweaty and uncomfortable because they are not as breathable. Whether it's jumpers, overcoats or siuts, wool, though expensive, is, to my mind, the only option. BTW, isn't that photograph of Cary Grant the epitome of the stylish chap?
I bought a 100% lambswool scarf once. After wearing it 10 minutes it looked (and felt) like I had poison ivy on my neck. Lesson learned...if it's going to touch my skin then it's got to be cashmere. For suits, sport coats etc. then wool is fantastic.
@@deusvult7559 yeh cashmere or merino for direct skin contact. I always was my wool jumpers on a delicate cold water only cycle. Just to rinse any chemicals or foreign substances picked up during production.
I put together a "starter" basket out of curiosity on Hawes & Curtis and it was very reasonable. 6 shirts (2 white, 2 light blue, 2 pink), a wool trouser, two chinos (mocha/forest green), 1 good shoes/boots. Less than £450 if memory serves. This is an excellent starter basket for sartorial beginners, good brand and they offer spread cost payment options.
My sartorial journey is certainly on a budget at the moment. But I agree with this whole video, buy quality and buy once. I have upgraded all of my shirts to Charles Tywhitt over the past few months, you can feel the quality compared to the budget shirts. But I picked them all up on Vinted, used but great quality and a lot better for the wallet. Plus feel like doing a small bit for the planet by reusing
All true Ash. Fast fashion, inexpensive clothing simply will not stand the test of time. The number of times the garments can be worn is a season or two before they wear out. High quality clothing lasts for years. Cost per wear demonstrates that, although expensive, high quality items end up costing much less money in the long run. Cheers.
Excellent video and sound advice (as usual). Just one thing: Ash, you really look scary walking in that beautiful overcoat, you look like a hitman from a classic 1940s gangster movie! 😁😁😁 You were truly "dressed to kill" (pun intended!) 😆😆😆 All the best and thank you for all your wonderful videos and tips.
Concerning shoes in particular, cheap shoes look cheap even when they are new! To add a bit of subtle patina to black shoes try using a navy blue cream to imbue the black with hidden depth, it works!
I know many, many viewers will disagree with me and I’m sure they’ll rally to the contrary. However, even though I enjoy the content, personal commentary and information,; The BACKGROUND ? I feel that every time I watch a video or segment I’m watching the most well-spoken and best dressed homeless person. The cognitive dissonance is somehow lost on me. Exclusivity vs. raw nature or bush is perplexing.
bought a few things very recently. one was a big purchase on a Edward Sexton greatnavy coat, and one was D'avenza camel cashmere double breasted coat. More on the edward sexton coat, it was very cool meeting the new owner, who I didn't recognise. Since i've never shopped there before. I did hear about the news leading up to the brand, just didn't think I'd meet someone who is positioned highly in the tailoring world so to speak. Anyways, I got the coat and love it. Perfect fit. Literally no alterations and flattering lengths and fit. Perfect against my shoulders and traps which I hardly see. I'm a 42 for my suits. and coats. If I do get more money in the future and my own goals are in line, then yeah, probably will get some more items with them considering my build fits their garments. the people in the edward sexton shop were very friendly, I even had a chance to go to their toilet! lol. i had a preview of all their clothes before they get shipped out or whatever, made? who knows. I told my dad about my purchase and he laughed calling me a 'crazy b'. as long as you cut your cloth to your own needs I don't see the problem, eventually something must give. I thought why delay my purchase 10 years from now, when I could just get it out of my system and not buy anymore coats. I got a really cool edward sexton hanger and suit bag too. The coat had very nice imposing shoulders, and a very cool button stance and a very nice back belt. I'm currently in the process of maybe getting a raincoat with them in the same style but different fabric. I may have to back off though since the prices, corr. What was interesting, at least in my case, they can do very personalised details for the same RTW price as long as the product hasn't been manufactured, but is planned to do so. They may change it, who knows, but based on this I'm considering getting a raincoat with them in the style I like the most. Was going to go with Burberry but then I couldn't find a size 42 and the staff weren't available to help, and thought screw it, let's go with a similar priced but better quality one. I like the fit, and that's what matters most. I'd prefer something a little bit more edgy anyways which is what Edward Sexton is all about.
Hi Ash, I’m a new sub and would like to thank you for your efforts. Please though could you do something on writing with a fountain pen or possibly recommend a brand that has a nice wet flow and a broader type nib. Writing is a lost art but not to me. Best wishes…Cameron
1. Buying the very best quality footwear. 2. Buying the very best quality footwear. 3. Buying the very best quality footwear. Master these 3 steps. Then onto no. 4 a quality well fitting blazer. 5. Well tailored trousers. 6. A quality well fitting shirt. The latter I am just starting to appreciate. A cheap crap shirt makes a chap look slovenly. I can now appreciate the differences between a cheap shirt from a better quality one. That last epiphany only happened recently for me sadly.😂
@@TheChapsGuide The epiphony happened in a recent work photograph. I nailed everything, but the white shirt I was wearing. Whilst neatly ironed, it was poorly cut and ill fitting. Why sink the ship for a hapeth of tar!
Former regulars in the per ardua mob sporting Territorial Army lapel badges ? Joking aside, there's lots of them on the bay these days, and the Tudor Crown coming back in could have a relevance again. Originally issued (numbered) in the last war so that blokes in the TA would not fall victim to potential white feather bearing Harpy's.
I really enjoy all of your videos! I have used your video on arbitrage to sell Allen Edmonds here in the states…I have been able to complete and refine (practically) my shoe collection and obtain a seiko level watch collection for every occasion through reselling shoes…I am a school teacher with a family and money is very tight. But thanks to your channel and others like it I have started my journey to quality menswear at only 24 years old. I look forward to refining my wardrobe the rest of my life! Thank you for all that you do.
I am absolutely delighted that you have found some success in my arbitrage system. It has worked for me too and continues to do so thanks to the wonders of Ebay. Good luck in your future endeavours - keep me posted sir!
Excellent advice, Ash. Investing in a few high-quality items is actually quite economical in the long run. (I've got a vintage Burberry trench coat -which I bought second-hand- that looks as good today as it did when I purchased it...almost forty years ago.) Another tip, which I'm certain you've discussed elsewhere: if you buy classic menswear items and stay away from flash-in-the-pan trends, you can build a wardrobe that will never go out of style.
It’s mostly about the material and construction of the items you buy. You can buy a YSL boot with the quality of a cheap shoe for the price of 2-3 Goodyear welted shoes. Know what brand your buying from are crap or not. You don’t have to buy full price, I recently look more into the sales section when shopping, either it’s out of season or discontinued it’s better then buying full price.
Those who buy cheap, buy twice. Even before switching from casual/sporty to a more sartorial style, I knew the importance of the quality. Change a few decades of motorbike jackets to good quality woolen coats is still not cheap, no matter what 😅. I love the feeling of natural fibers however, when I go for a hike or a ride, I still prefer modern garments
I came from the wrong side of the tracks, but I've educated myself and I have found buying quality always pays dividends. People that laughed at me when I was a teenager don't laugh so loud these days. And the very first thing my now Wife noticed when she first saw me were my shoes, I got married at 62 years old. I've had a great life considering where I came from. Kind regards
I personally favour the Saphir brand, but I am conscious that they are considered a bit pricey. But the Renovateur conditioning cream is very good quality and lasts a long time for the reasonable investment in my opinion.
I live i calgary alberta Canada, i have given up with the traditional dress shoe and have gone towards more of a dress boot. As an example the Thursday Captains. Amoung other styles they also have a wingtip boot as well. My reasoning is we will have all four seasons anytime of the year within a 24hr period. Boots like Thursdays offers a little more protection at the same time look very nice. I will not lie if my employer would shift the dress code to allow western boots id be wearing them as well. 😉 For my over coat since im on a budget ive choosen an Outback oil-slick. It offers amazing protection from the elements, takes next to no effort to clean and maintain and in my eyes with a nice fedora/flat cap/western hat, looks myles above most of the sky coats and other synthetic coats most around here buy. Another advantage to the outback oil-slick is it works great in rain and snow, working in the fields, mountaineering or at work. Like you said if you buy quality materials/products they will last and in the long run save you money.
Absolutely. My grandad taught me.. quality remains long after the price is forgotten. So true
It's fine to experiment with cheap stuff when you're younger, and you'll probably look good in cheaper clothes, but there's comes a point when it's time to upgrade. Being a bit more disciplined about exercise and diet is necessary also. When you're older you want people to look at the clothes not you!
I picked up a black Pea Coat in charity shop yesterday for £8. Fits perfect. I also saw a lovely Harris Tweed jacket for £5! Still had labels on. Sadly too small for me but a bargain for someone. Years ago I never looked in charity shops. Since retiring it become almost a hobby.
I done the same, (i'm a bit colour blind for dark colours, I swear its black but everyone tells me its dark blue lol) I was in Norfolk about 8 years back and I stumbled into a second hand shop, as I'm always on the look out for Tweed jackets, gloves and scarves on the cheap, tucked in with the jackets was the peacoat in large in pristine condition, tried it on, perfect fit. I asked how much expecting £50+ and the lady said £15. I gave her £20, it's been my goto winter coat since, it was even worn this morning for the dog walk. Amazing coats that always gets compliments.
I have purchased a number of Tweed jackets at thrift for $7 to $10. I also found a couple of Gieves & Hawkes jackets from eBay for around $35 .
Ash, it would be lovely to see a video about just how we all can espouse your wonderful accent. This is the only way to sartorial perfection.
I agree 100% in relation to quality footwear, not only from a visual perspective but if you wear quality footwear your feet will definitely thank you later in life.
Well said!
Another excellent video, sir.
Happy Birthday to His Majesty today!
Exactly how I started at about 35 (Changing from ultra casual like wearing trainers everyday to the sartorial smart casual basics, brown shoes, navy sports jacket, tucked in shirts etc) The clothing I first got were Cheap and they simply didn't last long at all.
I didn't learn my lesson with suits, I bought 3 cheap suits in the space of nearly 7 years that were ill fitting, massive on the shoulders and arms making me look not too sharp at all, buying a tailored suit is one of the best purchases made. Makes me feel a million bucks.
I like the look of overcoats. But it doesn't really get that cold here in the Southern California Valleys. Sometimes you just need a long sleeve shirt in the wintertime.
I really want an overcoat too, but here in Australia it's never cold enough to wear one.
In fairness gents, even in the UK, you only need them if you live in a city and walk a bit.
I live in the Midlands and you go from heated house, to climate controlled car and finally air conditioned offices.
I have a trench coat for if it's bucketing it down, but rarely need a thick outer layer over a suit jacket.
A tip on dress shirts. When buying, ask yourself “Will this shirt go well with a pair of jeans as well as a suit?” You’ll find that a smallish number of well-chosen colors and patterns will go a long way!
I agree
A good quality pair of shoes well worth the investment 👌
Again Ash
Sage advice.
I had a Black wool overcoat. I now have a black Pea coat and a Harris Tweed overcoat. I may give them runs out this Winter.
You are absolutely right!!!
After much experimentation (and paying significant school dues), I can confidently state that it is better to invest in quality. It is all part of the style journey. I would rather have one incredibly beautiful and functional garment that will endure the test of time than several inferior-grade pieces that will wither, fray, and disintegrate after a few wearings. But, hey, that's just me.
eBay is great for shirts Ash. I’ve picked up Eton shirts someone’s probably worn once for a wedding for less than the price of a new shirt in Tesco.
Love that Carl Friedrik briefcase. ❤️
I am so glad that you mentioned the price. I agree with you. eBay, outlet malls and thrift shops are the well dressed man's friend. I do the same and avoid to pay the full retail price. Over the years I came up with the motto: Do not go cheap on quality, go cheap on the price instead and look for the best possible price.
Very well done. This applies to about everything. I have high quality tools that are well over 40 years old that I still use. The difference with high quality is it can be repaired, serviced and rebuilt to like new. Low quality usually ends up in the garbage. Buy once…cry once.
@4:24
Wow that is a beautiful shoe!
Me being me, I'd add a watch.
I think a quality watch ( coyld be 2nd hand or inherited) is worth the sacrifice.
Some say a dive watch goes with a tuxedo ( should one wear a watch with this?) - not sure ; a date just or cartier tank ( even by Seiko) , I think works well with a suit.
Almost everything i wear is 2nd hand. I make exception for clothes that are in close contact like shirts. A used, high quality silk tie, will ooze so much class. I think a suit looks better distressed and used. My advice would be go new for socks, shirt and underwear. The rest can be 2 hand. I have just bought a Saville Row 3 pieces suit , cut in the 60´s for 125£. It’s more a matter of teaching yourself what man style is.. love your channel Ash
Recently discovered your channel, and I just wanted to thank you for all the good tips and useful knowledge you give out. I really enjoy watching your videos and learning about style!
Welcome aboard!
This was superb! I have Herno overcoat, the baracuta harrington and a gloverall duffle coat as my jackets 💙 Also a tailord Ralph lauren suit, white and blue quality shirts, and a lot of oxfords shirts, for pants chinos and courderoys 😊😊 And only wool/cashmere cardigan and sweaters
Forgot to say loake 1880 Oxford and roehamton boots , and sperry boatshoes
For the younger chap who’s not yet got to much to spend or more the frugal gent wanting a nice formal gold watch take a look at the older Garrard watches. Good Swiss movements and comparatively affordable. Garrard have an impressive client list too!
Yes gads Was that you in a pair of jeans and trainers?
Thanks for another informative, interesting video
Great video Ash. I am a big thrift store fan and have purchased quite a few great items at them. I bought a Barbour back in the 80s when not many people here knew what they were. I still wear it hunting and it could use some patching but it still does the job. I found the wife a Barbour international motorcycle jacket for $40 brand new at the thrift shop. It can be done just be persistent. Best regards Ron
Knowledge is the key. If you know what you are looking for and no one else recognises it, you can find some amazing bargains.
Another brilliant video, Ash - however, you surely made a slip-of-the-tongue when you said, at 08:02 "...they don't have that awful, worn-out look that natural materials do over time". I'm sure you meant to say, "...that ARTIFICIAL materials [e.g. polyester, terylene, etc.] do..."
Thanks for the advice
Although I totally agree with you that you should not buy cheap. Quality does not need to be expensive. The key is KNOW YOUR SIZE. Especially in shoes. I have purchased barker shoes off eBay for almost a quarter of the price of new, and there are many many videos on TH-cam that will show you how you can breath new life into them. This allows you to customise your shoes too.
As one TH-camr always says: “But it nice or buy it twice.”
Very true.
Is there a chaps guide to wearing a polo too?
Not yet. Maybe next summer.l
I think it’s horses for courses….a gradual generation transition….fashion and youth has always been a fickle combination…if I told my son to buy a tailored suit, leather brogues , trilby hat and an overcoat instead of the jeans and trainers ( not so ruddy cheap either!)that he and all his mates wear , then he’d just laugh!….I think if I transported myself by Time Machine back to face the 20 yr old me I would probably do the same!…..I agree about quality…but style and social acceptance within the age groups you move in at the time of your life are a powerful force…..Great vid Ash….as a man in my late 50’s I agree wholeheartedly with your recommendations! 😉👍
Not on the same subject, but wish you would do some reviews on books your reading. I’ve read some that you have shown briefly. Would like to know your thoughts?😊
I have a video coming up on my favourite books.
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you.
Good topic
Many years ago, I bought some shoes at Nordstrom’s (a US department store that sold high end stuff, and started out as a shoe shop). The shoes are (still have them) Goodyear welted. The shoe salesman emphasized that and told me that Goodyear tires last 50,000 miles or more, so Goodyear welted shoes would last a long time, too. I am still laughing about that. The shoes are good, The salesman was a moron.
Hilarious!
Expensive clothes wear out just as fast as inexpensive ones: Gant designer wear and especially Barbour jackets:
The jackets are around £250 and I have about 5 I have been wearing and 5 I have not worn or use for best.
The 5 in uses look like rags with holes and tears in:
They have been repaired a couple of times before.
Holes appear in the sleeves and other high friction areas within a couple of months because of the natures of waxed cotton forming ridges which accelerates the wear from friction.
The same with Gant wear:
I liked the pants and multicoloured shirts:
Pants are about £120 and shorts £60.
They wear out really quickly.
I tend to buy jeans from supermarkets now.
You need to buy affordable clothes that are evidently well made from good material.
That’s how Lance Stroll’s Dad, Lawrence made his money in fashion wear:
Tommy Hillfigger and Ralph Lauren as well, I think:
They reduced the quality and reduced the price slightly.
He owns Aston Martin F1 and his son, Lance Stroll is a driver with the Spanish F1 ex-champion Fernando Alonso.
It depends on the brand, armani and hilfiger lowered quality the last few years
It's a slippery slope, one they reduce the quality they effectively enter a different category of quality and many of us, myself included, chase the quality and not the label.
Never buy anything that has another blokes name as a label, or worse still has the name emblazoned somewhere. :)
Thanks Ash. I am interested in your thoughts on the items that you can go cheap on. Is there another video here?
I think consumables, anything else that you want to last buy quality (materials and production not just cost).
Coming soon!
A polyester suit does not take "a while" to look shiny. They are shiny right off the rack. Their cheapness is obvious.
And dont go cheap on your fountain pens! No match your rolex😉
Buy less, buy quality, Buy Made in UK
I wish I was a chap. Being a crust punk hasn't worked out so well
Time to pivot?
This advice goes for most things in life. Just say no to Chinese plastic junk.
I'm too poor to buy cheap things!
So just what CAN one go cheap on? The only item item I can think of that you haven't mentioned as something a chap can't go cheap on is a chap's unmentionables.
Don’t mention those..
Actually I told a lie! You didn't mention ties! @@TheChapsGuide
Back in the day, it was the done thing to have suits & sports jackets & slacks to be made to measure at a proper tailors shop ,even for the working class . People made the effort back then , not like now men & women in scruffy sports or casual gear . I found it is always better to purchase a few quality items ,than go cheap & purchase a multitude of lesser quality items . The problem was in some of the places I found anyone wearing a suit ,was automatically assumed to be the accused on the way to the local magistrates for sentence , on the way to a funeral wedding or christening . Unless you are in the financial area of a city ,or at a function ,wearing suits & classic chaps attire, unfortunately these days ,one is treated & looked on ,as if they just arrived from a different planet . Also one is likely to get accosted by ruffians ,& is left with no choice but to resort to dealing out a lesson ,Marquis of Queensbury style . This sustaining damage to one’s wardrobe collection . Standards are definitely lacking in some areas ,these days, I am glad we have chaps, like you about ,to show & remind us that good chaps standards can still be achieved ,with a little savvy & an eye for quality .👍
You are correct sir. A suit these days suggests the wearer is out of the ordinary and this causes interest from the wider proletariat. But this is perhaps why we chose to dress with passion - so we do stand out.
I buy 90% of my stuff from Next , seems to fit me well and be of good quality.
99% of men dress like tramps so I win .
first
Agreed. I’d rather pay 3x as much for a quality item that’s going to last 10x longer than the cheaper alternative.
My grandpa only had 7 pairs of shoes.But each pair was handcrafted and made specially for him.The same with suits , I remember that he had 9.But each one tailored , that he could even use when he was very old.He used to say (in Spanish) : lo barato sale caro. (Cheap things end up being more expensive because you have to replace them more often than quality items).
Excellent video as always , Ash.
Sage advice from your grandfather indeed
your grandfather knew the price per wear - very wise, thanks for sharing.
Wise advice from your grandfather.
7 I his lifetime, you mean, right?
@@Chernochegger maybe more , 10 or 12 , but all tailored.9 were left when he passed away.
I own two Barbours , an original Beaufort and an original Cowan Commando ( * original = made in South Shields )
Both are well over 24 years old now and stand the rest of time , live in the car boot and can dress down in the field in boots or dress up with a suit in winter .
I bought them years ago before they became fashion pieces and had a phase of never wearing them but now well into my 50’s find they feel and look natural now , compared to trying to pull off looking like a teenager again .
Pound for pound the best investment I made for sure .
You are absolutely correct in what you are stating here. When I got my 1st ever job my Father took me to a Taylor to get me measured up for a suit (which I remember thinking was surely over the top for a junior staff member). The actual Manager came up to me the week in which I started to privately compliment me on how I looked, which did exactly what you said it would do…filled me full of self confidence.
Wear a quality long type overcoat to hide your sword like a Highlander. LOL
Don't worry about your dress, you are well clothed in your success. - APJ ABDUL KALAM
Yes Ash. Wool, wool and only wool will do for Autumn/Winter. I must say, man made materials make me sweaty and uncomfortable because they are not as breathable. Whether it's jumpers, overcoats or siuts, wool, though expensive, is, to my mind, the only option. BTW, isn't that photograph of Cary Grant the epitome of the stylish chap?
Mr Grant connected all the sartorial dots long before we were playing the game.
I agree 100%. Synthetic materials are horrible, I just sweat.
Give me natural materials anyday.
I bought a 100% lambswool scarf once. After wearing it 10 minutes it looked (and felt) like I had poison ivy on my neck. Lesson learned...if it's going to touch my skin then it's got to be cashmere. For suits, sport coats etc. then wool is fantastic.
@@deusvult7559 yeh cashmere or merino for direct skin contact.
I always was my wool jumpers on a delicate cold water only cycle. Just to rinse any chemicals or foreign substances picked up during production.
I put together a "starter" basket out of curiosity on Hawes & Curtis and it was very reasonable. 6 shirts (2 white, 2 light blue, 2 pink), a wool trouser, two chinos (mocha/forest green), 1 good shoes/boots. Less than £450 if memory serves. This is an excellent starter basket for sartorial beginners, good brand and they offer spread cost payment options.
My sartorial journey is certainly on a budget at the moment. But I agree with this whole video, buy quality and buy once.
I have upgraded all of my shirts to Charles Tywhitt over the past few months, you can feel the quality compared to the budget shirts. But I picked them all up on Vinted, used but great quality and a lot better for the wallet. Plus feel like doing a small bit for the planet by reusing
Bravo sir. You follow my own philosophy
All true Ash. Fast fashion, inexpensive clothing simply will not stand the test of time. The number of times the garments can be worn is a season or two before they wear out.
High quality clothing lasts for years. Cost per wear demonstrates that, although expensive, high quality items end up costing much less money in the long run.
Cheers.
Excellent video and sound advice (as usual). Just one thing: Ash, you really look scary walking in that beautiful overcoat, you look like a hitman from a classic 1940s gangster movie! 😁😁😁 You were truly "dressed to kill" (pun intended!) 😆😆😆 All the best and thank you for all your wonderful videos and tips.
Timely piece of advice for a young man like me who is transitioning to going more presentable
So pretty much everything. Suit, jacket, coat, shoes, shirt, accessories.
Do you really think most people care how 'perfect' you look?
Concerning shoes in particular, cheap shoes look cheap even when they are new! To add a bit of subtle patina to black shoes try using a navy blue cream to imbue the black with hidden depth, it works!
Buy quality and buy once. Great advice, Ash. I can not wait for your watches and wonders vid.
Regards,
Starlight
I know many, many viewers will disagree with me and I’m sure they’ll rally to the contrary. However, even though I enjoy the content, personal commentary and information,; The BACKGROUND ? I feel that every time I watch a video or segment I’m watching the most well-spoken and best dressed homeless person. The cognitive dissonance is somehow lost on me. Exclusivity vs. raw nature or bush is perplexing.
bought a few things very recently. one was a big purchase on a Edward Sexton greatnavy coat, and one was D'avenza camel cashmere double breasted coat. More on the edward sexton coat, it was very cool meeting the new owner, who I didn't recognise. Since i've never shopped there before. I did hear about the news leading up to the brand, just didn't think I'd meet someone who is positioned highly in the tailoring world so to speak. Anyways, I got the coat and love it. Perfect fit. Literally no alterations and flattering lengths and fit. Perfect against my shoulders and traps which I hardly see. I'm a 42 for my suits. and coats. If I do get more money in the future and my own goals are in line, then yeah, probably will get some more items with them considering my build fits their garments.
the people in the edward sexton shop were very friendly, I even had a chance to go to their toilet! lol. i had a preview of all their clothes before they get shipped out or whatever, made? who knows. I told my dad about my purchase and he laughed calling me a 'crazy b'. as long as you cut your cloth to your own needs I don't see the problem, eventually something must give. I thought why delay my purchase 10 years from now, when I could just get it out of my system and not buy anymore coats.
I got a really cool edward sexton hanger and suit bag too. The coat had very nice imposing shoulders, and a very cool button stance and a very nice back belt.
I'm currently in the process of maybe getting a raincoat with them in the same style but different fabric. I may have to back off though since the prices, corr. What was interesting, at least in my case, they can do very personalised details for the same RTW price as long as the product hasn't been manufactured, but is planned to do so. They may change it, who knows, but based on this I'm considering getting a raincoat with them in the style I like the most. Was going to go with Burberry but then I couldn't find a size 42 and the staff weren't available to help, and thought screw it, let's go with a similar priced but better quality one. I like the fit, and that's what matters most. I'd prefer something a little bit more edgy anyways which is what Edward Sexton is all about.
Hi Ash, I’m a new sub and would like to thank you for your efforts. Please though could you do something on writing with a fountain pen or possibly recommend a brand that has a nice wet flow and a broader type nib. Writing is a lost art but not to me. Best wishes…Cameron
thank you Ash 🙏
My pleasure!
Wool think Arming doublet and gambeson in regards to the history of the well known material
I see a lot a videos that encourage investing in high quality. I wish there were videos about which brands and items are high quality vs high price.
1. Buying the very best quality footwear. 2. Buying the very best quality footwear. 3. Buying the very best quality footwear.
Master these 3 steps. Then onto no. 4 a quality well fitting blazer. 5. Well tailored trousers. 6. A quality well fitting shirt. The latter I am just starting to appreciate. A cheap crap shirt makes a chap look slovenly. I can now appreciate the differences between a cheap shirt from a better quality one. That last epiphany only happened recently for me sadly.😂
But you got there.
@@TheChapsGuide The epiphony happened in a recent work photograph. I nailed everything, but the white shirt I was wearing. Whilst neatly ironed, it was poorly cut and ill fitting. Why sink the ship for a hapeth of tar!
Is that an old silver TA lapel badge you're sporting Ash? I've got one on (one of) my tweeds.
Former regulars in the per ardua mob sporting Territorial Army lapel badges ? Joking aside, there's lots of them on the bay these days, and the Tudor Crown coming back in could have a relevance again. Originally issued (numbered) in the last war so that blokes in the TA would not fall victim to potential white feather bearing Harpy's.
@@Fanakapan222 I'm former TA as well as an ex-Crab. I had to redeem myself in green.
Couldn't agree more.
Some good tips, however you forgot to mention the wrist watch
My mother had a saying buy cheap buy twice
Great advice but again it's pàtina not patìna
thank you . sadly i learnt this lesson in the hard way .
I really enjoy all of your videos! I have used your video on arbitrage to sell Allen Edmonds here in the states…I have been able to complete and refine (practically) my shoe collection and obtain a seiko level watch collection for every occasion through reselling shoes…I am a school teacher with a family and money is very tight. But thanks to your channel and others like it I have started my journey to quality menswear at only 24 years old. I look forward to refining my wardrobe the rest of my life! Thank you for all that you do.
I am absolutely delighted that you have found some success in my arbitrage system. It has worked for me too and continues to do so thanks to the wonders of Ebay.
Good luck in your future endeavours - keep me posted sir!
what about wrist watches ?
Buy fewer but better quality clothes rather than a wardrobe full of tat.
You are very dapper, indeed!
man one of the best guide
Excellent advice, Ash. Investing in a few high-quality items is actually quite economical in the long run. (I've got a vintage Burberry trench coat -which I bought second-hand- that looks as good today as it did when I purchased it...almost forty years ago.) Another tip, which I'm certain you've discussed elsewhere: if you buy classic menswear items and stay away from flash-in-the-pan trends, you can build a wardrobe that will never go out of style.
Well said sir
Ties
Looking forward to the next trip to moose lodge and the next “ am I a chap. “ vid
Am I a chap is out tomorrow
@@TheChapsGuide awesome 👏
Thanks Ash............
My pleasure 😊
It’s mostly about the material and construction of the items you buy. You can buy a YSL boot with the quality of a cheap shoe for the price of 2-3 Goodyear welted shoes. Know what brand your buying from are crap or not. You don’t have to buy full price, I recently look more into the sales section when shopping, either it’s out of season or discontinued it’s better then buying full price.
Those who buy cheap, buy twice.
Even before switching from casual/sporty to a more sartorial style, I knew the importance of the quality. Change a few decades of motorbike jackets to good quality woolen coats is still not cheap, no matter what 😅. I love the feeling of natural fibers however, when I go for a hike or a ride, I still prefer modern garments
I came from the wrong side of the tracks, but I've educated myself and I have found buying quality always pays dividends. People that laughed at me when I was a teenager don't laugh so loud these days. And the very first thing my now Wife noticed when she first saw me were my shoes, I got married at 62 years old. I've had a great life considering where I came from. Kind regards
I just sub-consciously returned your salute, Ash.
So what items can a chap go cheap on in his wardrobe? An interesting topic for another video?
Thanks Ash, agree wholeheartedly!
In other words don‘t go cheap on anything.
Brilliant advice. Cheers
You are always getting in “appearance in court “ makes me chuckle
Another fine testament Ash well delivered and positive comments deserved
Sorry, professional habit
Great video - are you able to advise what eBay sellers you would recommend for shirts please?
Follow the shirts and not the sellars!
Great video, thank you. What products do you suggest to help ensure leather accessories (and indeed shoes) look their best year on year?
I personally favour the Saphir brand, but I am conscious that they are considered a bit pricey. But the Renovateur conditioning cream is very good quality and lasts a long time for the reasonable investment in my opinion.
Great advice! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
I have a very similar Carl Friedrik wallet which I’ve had for almost 3 years and I loved it. Unfortunately I misplaced it last week and I am gutted 😞
Sorry to hear that
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you, luckily it’s that time of year for Black Friday so I managed to order it again at a discount
Love how you have your scarf, do you have a recommended scarf length? One that allows a few nice scarf ties?
That one is a standard length, about 4 feet.
What I often see is people wearing an expensive suit with cheap shoes - which were not even kept in good order.
Unforgivable. The shoes are the window into the man
I live i calgary alberta Canada, i have given up with the traditional dress shoe and have gone towards more of a dress boot.
As an example the Thursday Captains. Amoung other styles they also have a wingtip boot as well.
My reasoning is we will have all four seasons anytime of the year within a 24hr period.
Boots like Thursdays offers a little more protection at the same time look very nice.
I will not lie if my employer would shift the dress code to allow western boots id be wearing them as well. 😉
For my over coat since im on a budget ive choosen an Outback oil-slick. It offers amazing protection from the elements, takes next to no effort to clean and maintain and in my eyes with a nice fedora/flat cap/western hat, looks myles above most of the sky coats and other synthetic coats most around here buy.
Another advantage to the outback oil-slick is it works great in rain and snow, working in the fields, mountaineering or at work.
Like you said if you buy quality materials/products they will last and in the long run save you money.