You shouldn't get 600psi and 45 degrees subcooling on any system even with the metering device 100% closed. That indicates such a gross overcharge that the entire liquid line and condenser is full. People think high head pressure=restriction. No, it doesn't. With a normal, clean charge, a restriction will result in *low head pressure and low suction pressure.* Head pressure climbing out of control means the internal volume of the high side is largely noncompressible, ie full of liquid (and/or noncondensables). Anyone who doesn't believe that, ask yourself what happens to head pressure on a recovery machine when you're pumping into a *100% restricted, closed vessel* with no outlet or return... It just condenses and head pressure matches temperature of the recovery cylinder.
Scheduled this wednesday for a oil additive call on a trane package, will be bringing a replacement txv incase the oil doesn't do the job. Thanks for uploading this! 2 years green in residential, you have a new subscriber sir
Did an oil treatment Thursday and had similar results with mine, couldn’t get out of high 20’s with superheat. Plan on follow up this week to see if the valve will ultimately have to be replaced. Bottom line I did get them cooling in the mean time. Love watching you work on them when I’m not. 🤣.
Un load the charge charge nitrogen 350 psi for 1 day and then pull vacume 300 microns and make damn sure it doesn’t move or you have a leak and then add Freon to system and see where you sit I almost guarantee u will be down at 15 with a 9 sub coolin
I keep NuCalgon AcRenew aka Zerol Ice on tap. Works 75% of the time on TXVs and Rev Valves. I always recommend an injection on even Piston Systems because (and I've seen it every time) it lowers amp draw, compressor temp, and lowers head pressure while widening Deltas a bit.
You can learn a lot from watching any of the HVAC videos on TH-cam. They all demonstrate ways to do things but the question is, are they good or bad things? Most of this stuff is fluff and bull. Few channels actually show you how things really work. There are purists that think every service call should include reading duct pressures to others that are just pure hacks, (and I don't use that term loosely), Once running calls on your own, you'll discover the bottom line is learning how to cut the fat out of what you do, Hopefully you'll become capable of simple logical thinking to save yourself time on each call so you can do more calls and make more money while still being able to be reasonable, develop a following and realize it's not about hitting home runs every time but creating long term customers for decades to come. That's what building an honest business or following is about. If I sold every one of my customers a new unit tomorrow, I wouldn't make much over the next 10 years and I'd have to look for fresh meat constantly. Give people options they can deal with. Repair or replace. Eventually you'll get the replacement if you hang on to the customer. Having to constantly find fresh meat drives up advertising costs, etc., where as I spend very little now and have a great following and customer loyalty percentage. A lot of these guys are doom and gloom salesmen who really don't understand how much of this works and only want to install new equipment because they don't have it in them to be able to make a 20 year old unit work like it was new, or pretty close. To some it's wiser to install new equipment than it is to actually understand how the equipment works and be able to problem solve even the oldest units. They think that's too much work for their brains but don't have a problem exerting that brain power on how to rip people off. So take any of this with a grain of sale but learn something from all of them. BTW, I'm not implying anything about this particular video. I didn't bother watching it. I don't agree with additives of any kind such as zerol ice or any of that so don't get your neck up Mr. Anti DIY guy. Just trolling the comments to try and save a few new guys and show them how they can make a good living without having to become whores to the industry and sell their integrity for a few hundred or thousands of dollars.
Iv'e had good luck with the treatment. Cleans that wax out of the txv. Once I get the injector connected and the manifold valves closed. I purge the air out of it at the low side fitting at manifold. That injector can hold a lot of air. Nice work and let us know what happens.
Good Job Ted!!! ....... Did quite a few oil additive jobs myself. I also found this works when you have a TXV issue in general. A lot of TXV issues not related to the rust inhibitor problem but more related to installation issues brazing without nitrogen also causes the valve to stick. Clogged up the inlet screen on the valve doing the exact same thing when the rust inhibitor does.. I tried to warn my installers but they didnt care. Service department would have to go behind them and fix it.
Great videos. I'm primarily a boiler mechanic up here in the North East. Otherwise, I have tested amp draw on hydronic circulators, and found after oiling the bearings, in many instances the amp draw returns to normal readings.
I had this problem a few years ago with a 11 month old unit I installed. It also was a American Standard unit. I just went ahead and replaced the TXV. No problems since but I know the system was installed right proper vacuum, leak check, no dust or dirt.
A/C Nenew worked good for my Trane system. It was making more noise than it should have, especially in first stage and cooling too well in second stage and not well enough in first stage. After a couple of days of using it my system got much quieter and cooled properly in both stages.
I like ur videos it’s nice to see a honest man at work I live in n c and I just got ripped off last month my heat pump was marking noise he replaced the fan blade say it goes bad all the time it is a train xl 14
Used to work for Lyon Conklin Ferguson. The TXV valve was sticking and getting clogged up was due to a rust inhibitor added to the compressors. That was a nightmare.
nice find!! I don't do residental but commercial industrial and refrigeration work but heard about the tx problems... I'd like to se a update on it it does interest me...
This might sound a little 😜 but usually I can unstick a stuck TXV with the additive and also getting the sensing bulb hot and cold as quickly as I can. Torch - ice water over and over. I don’t cook it, just a few licks of the flame from map gas. I’ll also tap on it with the back of screwdriver.
Zerol works 50-60% of the time(in my experience)if installed/applied correctly. We took a bunch of warranty valves and installed on test equipment with treatment in oil and about half freed up. When uninstalled you could see the color difference in the interior of txv. Wish I would have recorded some of it on video. PS- this was on beer time not company.
The coating in compressor leached out and clogs the valve. Go to Trane, they have a list of model and serial numbers of the effected units. If caught sooner, Trane would of paid for it. This one just looks over charged to me.
Vacuum it from the top and close the valves, or possibly feed gas in from the bottom of the canister and close it after purging. Depending on how many valves you got available
Am I crazy or did you not purge the air out of the injector? Maybe it was pre purged. Just an observation Just watched more where you explained, nevermind
Quick question, when you were bypassing the TXV/Lines/Evap by opening both valves on your manifold, didn't you risk slugging the compressor? Not criticizing. Just trying to learn.
It's possible to do that but there was probably enough restriction in all the ball valves and manifold to flash the liquid off enough to prevent that. The heat of the compressor will take care of the rest.
The other co. must of been super high cuz if the txv does have to be replaced, you are gonna charge them for what you did already, Service call,additional labor + material and then add for Replacing the txv on another day. That other company must of been trying to hit a grand slam .
I’ve used that oil additive for awhile and it seems about 1 or 2 years later it starts sticking again, and that stuff isn’t cheap, best thing is replace it with an piston
I don't think he can really tell from the readings if there was extra charge. Only real way to tell is to recover and weigh it or if he had no/ low super heat. I think its the other way around, maybe not enough charge. He's going back Monday to check. But don't take my word for it because I'm new to the field. I hope he updates us. I'm learning a lot from his videos.
Lol. I just watched the whole video and you suggested doing the same. I thought that it could be done with a small torch and an upside down can of air duster
Great vid Ted, been there done that many times and u did it spot on . There was a time ... over a few year period were I hated TXVs cause of the rustinhibtor issues we had going on.
Timothy Salomon I got a question. When the sensing bulb loses its charge does it completely shut and not let any refrigerant through? To the point where the unit doesn’t even run, because the low pressure switch kicks it off a few seconds after it kicks on.
So I just had a issue with my Trane unit started acting up last year my dealer tech told me today I need additive in my oil and that valve was needing to be replaced 1000.00 dollar repair job but told me there is a bulliten from Trane telling them some models needed it and my model is on the list it is only 5.5 yrs old and they installed the heating and cooling together in late 2014 why would they not contact me when bulliten ws released to recommend I put in additive and last summer there tech told me my system was low on refrigerant confused sounds like a recall from Trane I should have been notified by dealer I think
Never mind you said the other guy said it was the meter. Yeah so let's see the other video lol. Also what's that additive? Never heard of it. Guess it's something to do before replacing the valve
I did a call on Sunday morning where the customer had the compressor in his outdoor unit replaced and it still wasn’t cooling the pressure on the high side was 620 when I pulled the disconnect the previous company had way over charged the unit
Do to a rust inhibitor additive in the compressors which several different brands did this that rust inhibitor cost a very black tar-like sticky substance to destroy the system's make TXV stick clogged up Pistons compressor is coils this is used to fix that problem which we are still facing today even though this was done years ago if the added does not work you have to replace the TXV know I'm more likely replace the coil faster and easier as long as it's under warranty also you should replace a filter drier every time you open the system especially when it's got that crap in there another thing is it's hard to pull vacuum once you put the additive into the system it takes forever to pull that crap out if you're a new technician suggest a customer to watch the AC renew video on TH-cam it's usually a seller every time they watch a video the atom can be used for R22 410A does it matter the system is old or new
How does the compressor know what type of refrigerant it is compressing the you can only tell by pressure and temp by comparison with a refrigerant slider like the app danfloss puts out.
Why would you add an additive to a 5 year old American Standard unit with a txv failing and getting stuck. Just Replace the txv under manufacture warranty, if not they are 100 bucks. Pull charge, reclaim refrigerant, throw in a new filter dryer, pull vac, and weight in new charge. That’s God’s way. By the way might want to let the customer know about that condenser motor and that it’s leaking oil from the bearings, that way if it goes out in a week you at least let them know it’s leaking oil. Don’t try adding fully synthetic to a condenser motor next.
Yes and be at risk of the same issue happening again... The treatment is mainly to protect the new valve. However, it looks like the existing valve will be fine after all. Follow up video coming soon.
Well let me ask you this. Do you guarantee this repair for 1 year? When you install equipment you are not recommended to add any additives from any manufacture on a hermetic system. I guess I would always try to steer away from additives. I love watching your videos. Just wanted to pick your brain.
Also no need for a follow up video if you did it Gods way. If you gave them the option to change out the txv which obviously would be the correct thing to do vs. Mobil 1 option, and then the customer decides to go the Mobil 1 route then that’s on them. Probably why they went with you vs the other company cause obviously the correct way would cost more than 200 bucks. Not to mention the customer could have a much more expensive energy bill if that txv is a tad bit off and not working properly..
@@derekameduri3272 The oil additive is provided to us by Trane (the label says "Trane" on the bottle) at no cost to us or the customer.... we are also paid 200.00 by Trane to inject the treatment and also the TXV is under a parts warranty... you're obviously not a Trane dealer and have made incorrect assumptions. Thank you very much for watching !!
Who the hell installs a Heatjunk when you have a gas supply?? And the valve and labor should be under warranty.. All these "Modern" issues like constant TXV Failures, Evap leaks, Condenser leaks, Ruptured coils, explosive filter driers etc etc etc seemed to pop up with the introduction of 410a. Regardless of the manufacture.
It all comes down to in the beginning if there is no moisture or air in the system NO sludge could be built up no rust could form on metal part. The technician or manufacturer sloppy assembly are the cause of most-problems. Just like a technician who says all his expansion valves are defective he’s always coming back and replacing them it’s not the expansion valve that’s defective the technician needs to look in the mirror to find the problem. Just like small system cap to plug up with wax deposits caused by the installation technician who did not thoroughly evacuate and dry the system out and keeps blaming the system for the problem.
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You shouldn't get 600psi and 45 degrees subcooling on any system even with the metering device 100% closed. That indicates such a gross overcharge that the entire liquid line and condenser is full. People think high head pressure=restriction. No, it doesn't. With a normal, clean charge, a restriction will result in *low head pressure and low suction pressure.* Head pressure climbing out of control means the internal volume of the high side is largely noncompressible, ie full of liquid (and/or noncondensables). Anyone who doesn't believe that, ask yourself what happens to head pressure on a recovery machine when you're pumping into a *100% restricted, closed vessel* with no outlet or return... It just condenses and head pressure matches temperature of the recovery cylinder.
I'm sure the previous technician added refrigerant thinking the charge was low. You are correct though.
Scheduled this wednesday for a oil additive call on a trane package, will be bringing a replacement txv incase the oil doesn't do the job. Thanks for uploading this! 2 years green in residential, you have a new subscriber sir
Need to trim those bushes off the unit. Let some more airflow in there.
I was going to mention that as well.
You talking about what you are/were doing, which is why people watch, is why I subscribed…🙏
You need an apprentice riding with you everyday. Your attitude and knowledge would make you a great teacher.
Did an oil treatment Thursday and had similar results with mine, couldn’t get out of high 20’s with superheat. Plan on follow up this week to see if the valve will ultimately have to be replaced. Bottom line I did get them cooling in the mean time. Love watching you work on them when I’m not. 🤣.
Un load the charge charge nitrogen 350 psi for 1 day and then pull vacume 300 microns and make damn sure it doesn’t move or you have a leak and then add Freon to system and see where you sit I almost guarantee u will be down at 15 with a 9 sub coolin
I keep NuCalgon AcRenew aka Zerol Ice on tap. Works 75% of the time on TXVs and Rev Valves. I always recommend an injection on even Piston Systems because (and I've seen it every time) it lowers amp draw, compressor temp, and lowers head pressure while widening Deltas a bit.
Dwayne Hancock I’ve been thinking about trying this in my unit, so it actually works it’s not just snake oil ?
thanks for uploads man, learning a lot from your videos. I just started out in the trade for service.
You can learn a lot from watching any of the HVAC videos on TH-cam. They all demonstrate ways to do things but the question is, are they good or bad things? Most of this stuff is fluff and bull. Few channels actually show you how things really work. There are purists that think every service call should include reading duct pressures to others that are just pure hacks, (and I don't use that term loosely), Once running calls on your own, you'll discover the bottom line is learning how to cut the fat out of what you do, Hopefully you'll become capable of simple logical thinking to save yourself time on each call so you can do more calls and make more money while still being able to be reasonable, develop a following and realize it's not about hitting home runs every time but creating long term customers for decades to come. That's what building an honest business or following is about. If I sold every one of my customers a new unit tomorrow, I wouldn't make much over the next 10 years and I'd have to look for fresh meat constantly. Give people options they can deal with. Repair or replace. Eventually you'll get the replacement if you hang on to the customer. Having to constantly find fresh meat drives up advertising costs, etc., where as I spend very little now and have a great following and customer loyalty percentage. A lot of these guys are doom and gloom salesmen who really don't understand how much of this works and only want to install new equipment because they don't have it in them to be able to make a 20 year old unit work like it was new, or pretty close. To some it's wiser to install new equipment than it is to actually understand how the equipment works and be able to problem solve even the oldest units. They think that's too much work for their brains but don't have a problem exerting that brain power on how to rip people off. So take any of this with a grain of sale but learn something from all of them. BTW, I'm not implying anything about this particular video. I didn't bother watching it. I don't agree with additives of any kind such as zerol ice or any of that so don't get your neck up Mr. Anti DIY guy. Just trolling the comments to try and save a few new guys and show them how they can make a good living without having to become whores to the industry and sell their integrity for a few hundred or thousands of dollars.
Iv'e had good luck with the treatment. Cleans that wax out of the txv. Once I get the injector connected and the manifold valves closed. I purge the air out of it at the low side fitting at manifold. That injector can hold a lot of air. Nice work and let us know what happens.
Good Job Ted!!! .......
Did quite a few oil additive jobs myself. I also found this works when you have a TXV issue in general. A lot of TXV issues not related to the rust inhibitor problem but more related to installation issues brazing without nitrogen also causes the valve to stick. Clogged up the inlet screen on the valve doing the exact same thing when the rust inhibitor does.. I tried to warn my installers but they didnt care. Service department would have to go behind them and fix it.
Great videos. I'm primarily a boiler mechanic up here in the North East. Otherwise, I have tested amp draw on hydronic circulators, and found after oiling the bearings, in many instances the amp draw returns to normal readings.
Sometimes I feel like the only person that cleans the lines before attaching temperature clamps
devious dom You’re not the only one but you are one of few. Consider yourself one of the opera lead of the 1% 😂
I do it too but mostly because the fieldpiece wireless clamps need clean copper to read correctly.
@@bflugan That's what they're referring to. Why else would you clean them? Just to make them look pretty? Jesus...
I had this problem a few years ago with a 11 month old unit I installed. It also was a American Standard unit. I just went ahead and replaced the TXV. No problems since but I know the system was installed right proper vacuum, leak check, no dust or dirt.
A/C Nenew worked good for my Trane system. It was making more noise than it should have, especially in first stage and cooling too well in second stage and not well enough in first stage. After a couple of days of using it my system got much quieter and cooled properly in both stages.
I like ur videos it’s nice to see a honest man at work I live in n c and I just got ripped off last month my heat pump was marking noise he replaced the fan blade say it goes bad all the time it is a train xl 14
Nice work Ted she's well on her way back to good shape
Two things that should only be in a refridgeration system is refrigerant and refrigerant oil reclaim and change the txv
Used to work for Lyon Conklin Ferguson. The TXV valve was sticking and getting clogged up was due to a rust inhibitor added to the compressors. That was a nightmare.
Nice job. You obviously drained some refrigerant bud but you gonna change that txv on Monday no doubt.
nice find!! I don't do residental but commercial industrial and refrigeration work but heard about the tx problems... I'd like to se a update on it it does interest me...
This might sound a little 😜 but usually I can unstick a stuck TXV with the additive and also getting the sensing bulb hot and cold as quickly as I can. Torch - ice water over and over. I don’t cook it, just a few licks of the flame from map gas. I’ll also tap on it with the back of screwdriver.
Dr. Cook administers an IV to an ailing condensing unit, and achieves good results.
Zerol works 50-60% of the time(in my experience)if installed/applied correctly. We took a bunch of warranty valves and installed on test equipment with treatment in oil and about half freed up. When uninstalled you could see the color difference in the interior of txv. Wish I would have recorded some of it on video. PS- this was on beer time not company.
The coating in compressor leached out and clogs the valve. Go to Trane, they have a list of model and serial numbers of the effected units. If caught sooner, Trane would of paid for it. This one just looks over charged to me.
Amazing what the oil treatment can do.
I was told 410a will clean oil from txv so additive helps txv it coats it a little
Is there anyway to purge the canister in order to eliminate the chance of non-condensibles?
Vacuum it from the top and close the valves, or possibly feed gas in from the bottom of the canister and close it after purging. Depending on how many valves you got available
If you ever come across a Movincool spot cooler unit, please film it. I'd like to know what you think about them.
Am I crazy or did you not purge the air out of the injector? Maybe it was pre purged. Just an observation
Just watched more where you explained, nevermind
Quick question, when you were bypassing the TXV/Lines/Evap by opening both valves on your manifold, didn't you risk slugging the compressor? Not criticizing. Just trying to learn.
It's possible to do that but there was probably enough restriction in all the ball valves and manifold to flash the liquid off enough to prevent that. The heat of the compressor will take care of the rest.
No... especially not for the short periods of time I was doing it.
James Washer s
The screen on txv is plugged. Or drier blew up inside
Good video Gunslinger
Can't wait for the follow up video
What was the target superheat on that particular day? Or ideally?
10-12 degrees on a txv system, use a superheat chart for fixed orifice
This system was overcharged
What where the months and years of the rust inhibitor problems? I thought it was 2014 and 2015 Copelands
The other co. must of been super high cuz if the txv does have to be replaced,
you are gonna charge them for what you did already, Service call,additional labor + material and then add for Replacing the txv on another day.
That other company must of been trying to hit a grand slam .
Would that have the same effect for a heat pump / reversing valve?
What if you recover some of the freon?
How did you purge that tank
I’ve used that oil additive for awhile and it seems about 1 or 2 years later it starts sticking again, and that stuff isn’t cheap, best thing is replace it with an piston
Nice. What’s the model for the pump
what brand additive ?? ..like to stock it & use it as needed of cost effective Thanks
Did you have to change valve?
So what happened on Monday? The customer have to trim that bush back
Did you end up taking any refrigerant out or was the pressure change only from the additive? Very interested to see the update, great video.
I don't think he can really tell from the readings if there was extra charge. Only real way to tell is to recover and weigh it or if he had no/ low super heat. I think its the other way around, maybe not enough charge. He's going back Monday to check. But don't take my word for it because I'm new to the field. I hope he updates us. I'm learning a lot from his videos.
No, not yet.
What happened withe give away i didn’t received anything
Have you considered exercising the txv by cooling and heating the bulb after injecting the additive? Do you think that would help?
Lol. I just watched the whole video and you suggested doing the same. I thought that it could be done with a small torch and an upside down can of air duster
@@WTC7 I carry a few jugs of reclaimed R22 and alternate hitting the bulb with the small torch and then liquid from the jug.
@@birdwing98 lol
great job ted
Great vid Ted, been there done that many times and u did it spot on . There was a time ... over a few year period were I hated TXVs cause of the rustinhibtor issues we had going on.
We all did !!
Ted, why isn't the Trane oil used as a PM measure?
No.
I haven't heard of this oil interesting do you think it was overcharged a tad great video
Does the Trane additive smell as bad as the Supco 88?
It doesn't smell as bad, but it tastes a lot worse
Timothy Salomon I got a question. When the sensing bulb loses its charge does it completely shut and not let any refrigerant through? To the point where the unit doesn’t even run, because the low pressure switch kicks it off a few seconds after it kicks on.
American Standard is better from consumer reports.
same exact units...no difference at all!
Yep, same part numbers just different tag and paint, both good units.
@@kenthomas4668 i disagree, the unit badges have different letters lol
Thanks for the information!
So I just had a issue with my Trane unit started acting up last year my dealer tech told me today I need additive in my oil and that valve was needing to be replaced 1000.00 dollar repair job but told me there is a bulliten from Trane telling them some models needed it and my model is on the list it is only 5.5 yrs old and they installed the heating and cooling together in late 2014 why would they not contact me when bulliten ws released to recommend I put in additive and last summer there tech told me my system was low on refrigerant confused sounds like a recall from Trane I should have been notified by dealer I think
If you pull a vacuum on that injector before you open it, you'd get less contaminated refrigerant.
Good work
Over charged with freon?
Sure the sticker said 410a
Never mind you said the other guy said it was the meter. Yeah so let's see the other video lol. Also what's that additive? Never heard of it. Guess it's something to do before replacing the valve
That condenser was probably plugged, it can’t breathe
Great job
I didn’t know trane had this issue,though it was just rheem.
Rheem had a thick oil problem is this the same issue?
It was actually a problem with an additive Copeland was using in there compressors so it happened in many product lines.
I've never seen head pressure that high before
Yea no kidding I was expecting it to blow
I seen one condenser that was tripping the breaker from how neglected it was
I did a call on Sunday morning where the customer had the compressor in his outdoor unit replaced and it still wasn’t cooling the pressure on the high side was 620 when I pulled the disconnect the previous company had way over charged the unit
Try working on Co2. You'll have about 900 head @ 70 ambient.
Do to a rust inhibitor additive in the compressors which several different brands did this that rust inhibitor cost a very black tar-like sticky substance to destroy the system's make TXV stick clogged up Pistons compressor is coils this is used to fix that problem which we are still facing today even though this was done years ago if the added does not work you have to replace the TXV know I'm more likely replace the coil faster and easier as long as it's under warranty also you should replace a filter drier every time you open the system especially when it's got that crap in there another thing is it's hard to pull vacuum once you put the additive into the system it takes forever to pull that crap out if you're a new technician suggest a customer to watch the AC renew video on TH-cam it's usually a seller every time they watch a video the atom can be used for R22 410A does it matter the system is old or new
Those condensers look identical.
Wow those look exactly the same
Great video thank you
R410A compressors don’t like to compress anything except R410A.
That is all.
How does the compressor know what type of refrigerant it is compressing the you can only tell by pressure and temp by comparison with a refrigerant slider like the app danfloss puts out.
This works about 50% of the time other half replace all txv’s
TXV's always keeps the service calls coming. I like the piston, but like the money TXV makes me
Do you still recommend Trane even with all these sticking valves?
problem is Copeland.
we use Zerol ice
Does Trane recommend adding oil on new installs ?
Not after the issue was resolved with the rust inhibitor... it is no longer added to compressor oil.
I would have still changed TXV.. sticking valves always need replacing
Damn utube, 7 commercials in 17 minutes. It's getting to the point where utube isn't worth watching.
Bring ur hedge trimmers
Second time watching 7/16/2020
New utube channel.......fix it with fluid....
Good video 😜
👍
Why would you add an additive to a 5 year old American Standard unit with a txv failing and getting stuck. Just Replace the txv under manufacture warranty, if not they are 100 bucks. Pull charge, reclaim refrigerant, throw in a new filter dryer, pull vac, and weight in new charge. That’s God’s way. By the way might want to let the customer know about that condenser motor and that it’s leaking oil from the bearings, that way if it goes out in a week you at least let them know it’s leaking oil. Don’t try adding fully synthetic to a condenser motor next.
Yes and be at risk of the same issue happening again... The treatment is mainly to protect the new valve. However, it looks like the existing valve will be fine after all. Follow up video coming soon.
Well let me ask you this. Do you guarantee this repair for 1 year? When you install equipment you are not recommended to add any additives from any manufacture on a hermetic system. I guess I would always try to steer away from additives. I love watching your videos. Just wanted to pick your brain.
Also no need for a follow up video if you did it Gods way. If you gave them the option to change out the txv which obviously would be the correct thing to do vs. Mobil 1 option, and then the customer decides to go the Mobil 1 route then that’s on them. Probably why they went with you vs the other company cause obviously the correct way would cost more than 200 bucks. Not to mention the customer could have a much more expensive energy bill if that txv is a tad bit off and not working properly..
@@derekameduri3272 The oil additive is provided to us by Trane (the label says "Trane" on the bottle) at no cost to us or the customer.... we are also paid 200.00 by Trane to inject the treatment and also the TXV is under a parts warranty... you're obviously not a Trane dealer and have made incorrect assumptions. Thank you very much for watching !!
@@derekameduri3272 Yes the "Trane" additive is recommended for this situation.
Those oil treatments can be amazing. I'm not a fan of txvs.
Fit your gauges with some 18993's
And you'll have less air in the lines!
Just say'n.
Retired keyboard super tech.🥃🥃🍺🍺😜wear your safety glasses.
In the north here i sell 13 seer with piston coils, pistons never fail.
Trim the bushes back!
most likely, someone didn't flow nitrogen and cooked the living "pish" out of everything when brazing in......
Replace txv, replace freon filter, vacuum and recharge. Problem solved.
I’ve never scene this stuff work in my life, used it 10-15 times
Why waste all that time why not cut to the chase and replace the valve
The same thing will happen again, If the additive worked then the valve is possibly good
Probably because he said it was past 5 on a Friday. Get them cooling if you can after the supply house is closed.
Who the hell installs a Heatjunk when you have a gas supply?? And the valve and labor should be under warranty.. All these "Modern" issues like constant TXV Failures, Evap leaks, Condenser leaks, Ruptured coils, explosive filter driers etc etc etc seemed to pop up with the introduction of 410a. Regardless of the manufacture.
Too many butches , plants around outdoor unit
It all comes down to in the beginning if there is no moisture or air in the system NO sludge could be built up no rust could form on metal part. The technician or manufacturer sloppy assembly are the cause of most-problems. Just like a technician who says all his expansion valves are defective he’s always coming back and replacing them it’s not the expansion valve that’s defective the technician needs to look in the mirror to find the problem. Just like small system cap to plug up with wax deposits caused by the installation technician who did not thoroughly evacuate and dry the system out and keeps blaming the system for the problem.