That was my thought too. Or, put a 1/2” stainless bolt through it and cut a piece of UV resistant PVC pipe to slide ice the bolt to act as a bushing for the rope and chain.
If I had been taking apart my dipstick while holding it over the engine bay, I would have dropped my allen wrench, the set screw and who knows what else and they would disappear never to be seen again. Glad you don't have as many thumbs as I do Stu.
If you look closely at the side of those MC4 connectors you should see a plus mark on the male showing it's positive from the panel. Looking good now you're able to twiddle thumbs!
I love the sound every time you hit the start button, the engine sounds amazing. Good to see you gave yourself plenty of thinking time to cut the dipstick the right length. Loving the content.
Hi Stu, Thank you for getting back. Spent two days putting the fix all WD40 a quick spray every two hours. Then a large wide flat blade screw driver, the screw driver that belonged to my Grand Father it must be close to 100 years old but as it’s a proper cabinet screw driver, the good old fashioned sort with a large wooden handle plus a flat section just under the handle. Slip an adjustable spanner on the flat and with the extra leverage the screw gave way and started to move again. And people ask me why do you keep all this old junk.( junk being old workshop tools)
Stu. A trick I have seen, for getting individual wires out of a conduit is to chuck the ends into a cordless drill and twist them together. This make the bundle essentially one wire (will be stronger) and helps to shrink and break the bundle from the sides of the conduit. You can also do this to wires you want to run through a conduit too. A car stereo guy, showed me this one. I've used it to run wire (works great) but never tried removing wire this way but I've heard it works.
Those wondering 20:21 he says RCD which is a residual current device. Basically the same thing as a GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) used to immediately disconnect power for kitchen and bathroom plugs. For example if you dropped a hairdryer in your bathtub you wouldn't die. They react very quickly and often have a test switch on it.
I'd put the shore power inlet in the wheel house, then run the wires in the same type of flex tubing you used for the solar power wires. This will allow you top keep the hatch closed, where the open hatch may chafe the cord, as well as protect the wires from the power inlet running through out the boat. If it was me, I'd also rip out all the lose wires and run then through flex tubing, or use the hard PVC type tubing. I do a lot of electrical work one Vehicles, and this is how I normally do it, and I've never had any issues. I'd also run the ground wire from the Inverter to the same ground bolt you have all the other power running to - if you have multiple ground points then your can get a "ground loop" and your electronics can start having random issues.
You need the marine power socket as it locks the plug into the fitting. If it comes out and goes overboard, 240 v in the water. If you stay with the caravan type, work out a way to tie off the power cable to keep the plug on board.
Good thought, that is an important situation to avoid. Maybe I will go with the marine type and just have a lead onboard that lets be connect to a regular socket on a wharf.
awesome as always,, Stu. One thing I always did at sea was always put it a spare "pull Thru" in place when I ran new wiring that way you always had one in place for the future.take care.
I read a lot of replies regarding the anchor receiver/sprit. A different possibility might be to simply raise the forward end of the sprit to adjust the angle until the rode no longer contacts the aft edge when paying out. It might take too much of an angle to be effective, but it might be worth a look. Thanks for the continued top notch content.
@@DangarMarine of course, I'm just going to go stick my head in the toilet. Wasn't thinking it through. Definitely need to avoid abrasion situations if you can with the high modulus polymers like Dyneema.
WhatI have used previously to clean out transoms was a very long extension with the boring bit on it .You can actually chew the wood out and then use a vacuum with an extension on to suck it all out.
Seen the video was up this morning before I went to work, been saving it for tonight when the kids all in bed. Always a great start to Sunday evenings viewing thanks Stu👍👍
I would not be worried about about mounting the Power Inlet on the wheelhouse, Stu. The supply that the lead will be connected to will also have some sort of protection on the shore end.
Don't know if you have any bridge clearance issues, but if you are cutting off the mast, it would be simple to reinstall it on a hinge base to allow it to be lowered for low clearance bridges.
Thanks for showing the repair or Lorenzo’s transom. I have been putting off doing the same job on my boat, but now knowing that it can be a successful operation,I am confident of doing the same to my boat.
Awesome project you’ve got going on. That dyneema is ridiculously strong, and will def do the trick, something to look out for would be when you are anchoring, try pay out excess line and make this fast onto the bollard just forward of the storage drum. If you and anchor and the weather gets up the line may bury itself into the storage drum when the tension comes on. This will be an absolute nightmare to get out. It may well be that you were just testing the system, just something to look out for.
2:35, D-Squad in the background keeping things safe for the film crew, patrolling the grounds!!!! Nice work girls. Ok, on the shore power outlet, addressing the safety aspect of running from the wheel house or mounting under the hatch. All shore power in marinas up here in the US have GFCI protection on them, which would ensure that even a small short (to ground or phase to phase) would trip the circuit feeding the boat. I don't see that as a safety issue to be honest. I see bigger problems with that heavy lid crushing a wire. But that's just one mans opinion. Good luck.
@busgreasemonkey said in one of his videos - "It's a Detroit, if there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it. If you hang a picture of one on the wall, in the morning there'll be a little puddle of oil on the floor under it."
Instead of making the awning detachable it might an option to mount the awning to the roof with some heavy duty hinges and attach the steel wires to a vinch on the roof that way you can lift the awning up and out of the way at the press of a button or adjust the height whenever is needed
Thanks for another interesting video. On the anchor rode: I take your point about the dyneema- cored double-braid being stronger and allowing more rode to be wound on to the winch, BUT nylon stretches a lot more so acts as a shockabsorber, protecting your winch. If you are going to anchor in a big sea and use the double-braid , you could protect your winch by cleating the double braid to a horn cleat or find another way to snub the line so the strain doesn't damage that lovely winch.
Stu, re the inboard end of the bow-roller, I'd advise not to just cut it off! If you put a vertical cut in the webs at the side, you could then bend the end downwards creating a 'lead in' for the chain/rope. Take it home weld the gap with some stainless mig/arc wire, to remove the chafing point on the side. You could even weld a small stainless loop over the top of the inboard end, to ensure the chain/rope never jumps out of the bow-roller channel.
Rather than cut the anchor tray shorter, how about put a 3rd roller right on the end. Even cut the bottom of the tray a bit, so you have 2 wings and the 3rd roller could be lower. So right at the boat end you had a roller to guide the chain/rope seeward.
Hi Stu: Use two outdoor sockets wired in parallel. One on the cabin exterior and the other on your panel. You will have the best of both worlds without having to leave the lazerette open.
One recommendation I'd make towards your power wall / inverter is to mount a single Co2 fire extinguisher next to it, such a shame the mast wiring was a fight, Another great video Stu
For the remaining hole under the power outlets maybe a bottle opener could go there? On the bow roller maybe slightly bend the extra bit down and put a roller on it to help more 'gently' guide the chain?
Nice progress Stu, you could add a roller on the end of the anchor guide so the anchor chain and line doesn't rub the guide. Looking good with the wiring enhancements, tell Eddie Hey, Jeff in LA USA
The dyneema anchor rode is great stuff because of its strength/diameter ratio. The weakness is it is not very abrasion resistant. I noticed your concern regarding the anchor chain rubbing the bow anchor bracket. It looks like the dyneema will also rub. Be careful there Mr. Dangar.
I would mount the power inlet on the boat cab and add, buy a Clipsal ip 56 - 3 module weather proof box adding the RCD in two of the modules and inlet in the third. It will look neat.
Hey Stu , great videos mate, lived in Manly 25 years ago and loving all stories and theamazing scenery!!!!!!, especially now as its bloody freezing here in the UK.Ha Ha
Affixing something dubiously and then proceeding to grab it and shake while saying "that's not going anywhere" is a sign of modern manhood, don't take that masculine sign of independence away from yourself
I really think a 3rd roller is the easy way to go. Just drill a hole in either side no cutting, no grinding, no metal splinters, and it saves the back 2 holes for adjustment should you acquire/require another anchor.
Mounting the 4G antenna further from the mast would improve propagation characteristics. Also, if you go with VHF antenna for the radio, top of mast will be most efficient. But you can still get by with an automotive magnetic mount on the cabin roof. Before you cut the bow roller feed, how about slotting the coners and bending it out or down a bit for feeding.
Just a thought to add a marker to anchor chain, so when it's just below or above surface of water you kind of know where it is if retrieve from pilot house.
I am with Peter, the addition of a roll on the inboard side of your anchor bow spirt will give a reliable feed that the chain won't fowl with the bracket even if it slops around a bit as they tend to do. I don't think that shortening it will resolve the possibility of the chain catching on the leading bracket edge, in particular if it goes a bit slack.
Well done we found the braid let us down the inner let go , and it stretched , the three strand no stretch and easy to splice and good on the hands and lasted longer , years in fact , we marked the last two mtrs and the ,ast meter with paint to indicate it nearly there when hauling up good luck
Hi Stu, Good video on the anchor and wiring. Bummer the old wires won't come out but like your plan cut and weld in upcoming video. I see the wiring laying on the batteries needs to be organized. Lots of opportunities still on cleanup. My workshop needs it too. Rain season now so will get the indoor stuff going👍
Stu, what about drilling an access port close to the bottom of the mast to help you guide cables through,then just cap it with a bolt on cap sealed with some Sicaflex. Instant access if you need to get to it in the future. Great work, by the way. Looking forward to the diving vids. 👌👌
You take away quite a bit of structural integrity of the mast by cutting a hole into it. Now, it might not be as important as with a sail boat but it still has to withstand winds.
i wouldn't cut that feed ramp off the stainless bowsprit. Better to cut each side wall where it meets the mounting base & angle it down so it acts as a ramp.
@@nou238 Should be able to chamfer the cut edges with the grinder Or Stu could move the anchor winch higher up the cabin wall or add a pipe for the chain & rope to feed through.
Yes agreed really need to make a feeder particularly with longer lengths of chain >600mm in horizontal- cut and miter the overhang inside of the stem mount. Definitely need some for of chain feeder -don't always have the perfect anchor launch and retrial particularly caught in a storm and heavy seas.
Went back and checked the video again possibly look at building the sides up on the aft end of the feeder- stainless steel pin across the top so the chain cannot jump off the aft end of the ramp.
@@tonyboats A length of stainless steel 3" or 4" exhaust pipe & have them slightly flare the entry & exit holes would work as a feeder to the bowsprit.
Instead of cutting the anchor holder, I would maybe look at getting a bit of HDPE or similar to put around the end so that it protects the steel and also protects the anchor line. From experience, dyneema starts fraying pretty easily when rubbing on anything really.
Just a thought instead of drilling/cutting a hole in your mast where it is worn thin from rust to try and pull the wires etc and patching it which honestly sound like a very temporary repair at best perhaps a better solution would be cut your mast off at the point below where it is rust damaged and weld a flange onto the stub of the mast and weld another flange onto the other section of the mast that was cut off and had the rust damaged section cut off and new pice of pipe/tubing sectioned onto it in its place.(mast extension if you will) then you will have a easy way to remove the mast should you ever pull Renko out of the water and transport it by truck and trailer as well as allowing for easy installation of wiring or serving of the mast (painting etc) in the future. additionally to ensure the where the flange is installed is waterproof and to provide additional reinforcement to the joint it would in my opinion be a good idea to install a section of tubing (preferably stainless steel or aluminum) as a sleeve that fits snugly inside the stub of the mast and into the vertical section of the mast (mast extension) . this could be done by welding it in place but an easier option that should work just as well and if not better is to 3M Panel Bond Adhesive applied to the section of the sleeve being installed in the mast stub. When you would be bolting the two sections of the mast together an O-ring could be installed on the sleeve which I would coat with a waterproof grease (Myself I would use silicone grease because it waterproof and should not damage the insulation of any wiring) additionally I would make a gasket using butyl rubber and install a heavy gauge ground strap between the upper and lower section of the mast and leave a large service loop of wiring (3/4 to 1 meter) in the ceiling area of the cabin. Not to be a nit picking nag but if Renko were my boat I would spend some time nesting up the wiring you have installed because there are some areas that it is getting a little ratty looking and now is the time dress that all up otherwise before you know it you will have a first class mess on your hands. Sorry again for sounding like a whiny nag but having worked 20 plus years in the telecommunications industry neat orderly wiring is a pet peeve of mine and probably most anyone else who works in the telecom industry. StaySafe, StayHealthy and keep the wind on your bow and the seas on your stern
Yes, was talking yesterday with a mate about adding a couple of flanges to the mast to make it easily removable. Seems like a worthwhile change for sure.
Renko is really starting to come along nicely Stu. Hopefully those rings start behaving themselves, its a shame to have to tear into a fresh rebuild like that.
I would add a second roller to the end to keep your ability to be able to move the whole bow sprit if you need to. Once you cut you make things more complicated if cutting does not wotk
DC and antenna coax will usually play nice (that said I have to chase an issue in the car where my new earth source for my 2ways is stirring the UHF on CB29 but amateur V and U is fine). The furthest practical distance from the mast you can get with antennas the better. I've seen a few of them antennas on other boat videos so they seem popular though not sure how good they are. When doing new DC cable in these sort of cases I think you're often better running 7+ core trailer wire for future extras since it's often not THAT much bigger than some other twin core cables and is double insulated. The earth thing there's a chance the Inverter will see some sort of feedback loop if there's voltage on the earth line, or that there's AC where there should only be DC and then kick out. I'd have left that neg bus bar as was ... looks more simple no bs no fuss. Used that fuse box for something later up top or down the back. I'd be more concerned about the positive terminals behind the switches in the hutch being able to be hit by a pole or something when working. Solars look clean like that!! Shore power SHOULD pickup a fault before it gets to your CPE if you could call it that. So you "should" be protected by shore power up to your isolation equipment. If the earth is hooked to the neg bus bar alongside the inverters then any case of the active opening up and hitting the hull will complete the circuit to earth blowing the shore breaker. In theory. I was unaware of the "too much" theory for anodes. TIL .... SMA connectors for your mobile phone antenna have that opposite in many cases ... you go from which has the pin in the centre. FME connectors used in phones often confused me for a bit with that until that was explained to me. SMA connectors etc have an "RP-plug" for reverse polarity ... can't that be fun when you get 2 females that can slide into each other and not make a connection of the centre pin. Ciglighter sockets are universal so always a good idea. That roller ... can you put 2 arms back toward the cab off it and squeeze and extra roller in? That would mean the farthest point each end is a roller with a mid for support as well.
In many places, the mains "neutral" and "ground" are normally tied together, at (or near) the distribution board. As you'd pointed out in the video, this helps the positive voltages find a safer route to ground than, say, through a human. It also facilitates detection of a ground fault -- the ground wire usually sidesteps the current sensing of your RCD, giving a positive bias (at the current sense) and breaking the circuit. Big Clive has a number of good videos on how that works if you're interested, including teardowns of RCD/GFI-type sockets and breakers.
I wouldn’t worry about oil discharge from the air box drains. Detroit diesels are known to “slobber” from the air box. Many installations have a catch can or tank that collects the oily discharge to keep it from making a mess or fouling the bilge water. With time, it may even taper off as the rings wear in a bit. That engine sounds just fine. The best thing you can do is run it. Sitting still in the marine environment destroys engines prematurely.
I was thinking about just going with a catch can, but it is more than it should be for a rebuild engine. Adrian is thinking that maybe the oil rings are damaged from loading the pistons in to the top of the liner instead of the bottom as they should. Easy mistake to make if you aren't familiar with Detroits.
You could try putting the old roller from the anchor mount on the end of the new anchor mount to stop it from whacking the edge? Great video as always! Much love from Washington State!
Leave the engine alone it looks much better now the oil level is down . Pistons all look cleaner have a look at the older video of the engine. Thanks for sharing
Definitely still pushing a lot of oil out the breather and exhaust unfortunately. Been talking to Adrian about making some improvements at the same time so worth giving it one last going over.
Stu, Others may have already suggested this...but if you're going to cut a hole in the side of the mast to pull new wires maybe you should consider adding some kind of waterproof box or cover instead of welding it shut for future access.
I watch these flicks for the fixes, findings, fidos, fun and yes fishing.
Admire your confidence with the wiring. My experience is 10% fixing and 90% figuring out what I did wrong.
@18:21 Fish and chips, killing it !
This comment section is gold. Everyone bouncing ideas off one another trying to help get best result.
For sure, the hive mind can come up with some great ideas.
For the anchor chain issue, try drilling in a third roller at the beginning of the bow roller to prevent the rubbing.
That was my thought too. Or, put a 1/2” stainless bolt through it and cut a piece of UV resistant PVC pipe to slide ice the bolt to act as a bushing for the rope and chain.
Yes, and you still have the old roller to use...
Or you could cut the sides and bend it down at an angle so it guides but doesn't chafe
For your anchor bow sprit you could cut it from the bottom and bend it so its angled toward the deck and just weld it back up!
If I had been taking apart my dipstick while holding it over the engine bay, I would have dropped my allen wrench, the set screw and who knows what else and they would disappear never to be seen again. Glad you don't have as many thumbs as I do Stu.
If you look closely at the side of those MC4 connectors you should see a plus mark on the male showing it's positive from the panel. Looking good now you're able to twiddle thumbs!
Renko is looking really cool. Just love it.
Thanks!
@@DangarMarine Love what you do bro.
I love the sound every time you hit the start button, the engine sounds amazing. Good to see you gave yourself plenty of thinking time to cut the dipstick the right length. Loving the content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's always nice, that after you get the circuits worked out, to neaten up the wiring.
Hi Stu, Thank you for getting back. Spent two days putting the fix all WD40 a quick spray every two hours. Then a large wide flat blade screw driver, the screw driver that belonged to my Grand Father it must be close to 100 years old but as it’s a proper cabinet screw driver, the good old fashioned sort with a large wooden handle plus a flat section just under the handle. Slip an adjustable spanner on the flat and with the extra leverage the screw gave way and started to move again. And people ask me why do you keep all this old junk.( junk being old workshop tools)
Great to hear you got it moving! :)
Stu. A trick I have seen, for getting individual wires out of a conduit is to chuck the ends into a cordless drill and twist them together. This make the bundle essentially one wire (will be stronger) and helps to shrink and break the bundle from the sides of the conduit. You can also do this to wires you want to run through a conduit too. A car stereo guy, showed me this one. I've used it to run wire (works great) but never tried removing wire this way but I've heard it works.
Nice tip!
Those wondering 20:21 he says RCD which is a residual current device. Basically the same thing as a GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) used to immediately disconnect power for kitchen and bathroom plugs. For example if you dropped a hairdryer in your bathtub you wouldn't die. They react very quickly and often have a test switch on it.
Yep, should have done a quick explanation on how they work. Will do soon!
Interesting, never knew you could have too many anodes, thanks!
Wow Stu a test for an over Zinced boat ! Never seen that before! Must try that when I get back I the water! Thanks a lot. Warren
I'd put the shore power inlet in the wheel house, then run the wires in the same type of flex tubing you used for the solar power wires. This will allow you top keep the hatch closed, where the open hatch may chafe the cord, as well as protect the wires from the power inlet running through out the boat. If it was me, I'd also rip out all the lose wires and run then through flex tubing, or use the hard PVC type tubing. I do a lot of electrical work one Vehicles, and this is how I normally do it, and I've never had any issues.
I'd also run the ground wire from the Inverter to the same ground bolt you have all the other power running to - if you have multiple ground points then your can get a "ground loop" and your electronics can start having random issues.
Yes, will definitely get move conduit soon to protect the existing wiring. Ground loops can be a big issue for sure.
You need the marine power socket as it locks the plug into the fitting. If it comes out and goes overboard, 240 v in the water. If you stay with the caravan type, work out a way to tie off the power cable to keep the plug on board.
Good thought, that is an important situation to avoid. Maybe I will go with the marine type and just have a lead onboard that lets be connect to a regular socket on a wharf.
@@DangarMarine We replaced the marine plug with a standard 15 amp plug and that saved having any other leads.
Adding another roller is better than trimming the bracket!
Things are really coming together, looking good!
Thanks mate.
awesome as always,, Stu. One thing I always did at sea was always put it a spare "pull Thru" in place when I ran new wiring that way you always had one in place for the future.take care.
Thanks David, and good tip. Always makes sense to do things like that at the time to get yourself future proof.
So good to see the old boat coming to life again 👌
Best video in ages, also good to see Eddie!
Thanks David.
Nice Job Ben , give him a beer.
Hello from Rotonda West Florida on the Gulf.
Will do!
I read a lot of replies regarding the anchor receiver/sprit. A different possibility might be to simply raise the forward end of the sprit to adjust the angle until the rode no longer contacts the aft edge when paying out. It might take too much of an angle to be effective, but it might be worth a look. Thanks for the continued top notch content.
Nice idea, but the trouble there is that the angle it is on is what allows the anchor to self launch without being given a push.
@@DangarMarine of course, I'm just going to go stick my head in the toilet. Wasn't thinking it through. Definitely need to avoid abrasion situations if you can with the high modulus polymers like Dyneema.
WhatI have used previously to clean out transoms was a very long extension with the boring bit on it .You can actually chew the wood out and then use a vacuum with an extension on to suck it all out.
Yes, we did buy exactly that for this jobs. Great minds think alike! ;)
I did mine with a chain saw and the vacuum out the junk
Seen the video was up this morning before I went to work, been saving it for tonight when the kids all in bed. Always a great start to Sunday evenings viewing thanks Stu👍👍
Enjoy!
I would not be worried about about mounting the Power Inlet on the wheelhouse, Stu. The supply that the lead will be connected to will also have some sort of protection on the shore end.
Great to see you making progress on Renko, but must say do miss the work you used to do on other boats and outbords.
All looks well.
Cut your mast off near the base, rip out the wires & whatever is blocking the mast, repaint the mast inside, weld the mast back on.
An opportunity to repaint the inside of the mast would be good.
@@DangarMarine It would prevent future rusting
Don't know if you have any bridge clearance issues, but if you are cutting off the mast, it would be simple to reinstall it on a hinge base to allow it to be lowered for low clearance bridges.
You tried pulling all 4 cables at once! You're an animal!
that's why I keep coming back...
Thanks! ;)
FINALLY! The bow anchor roller got replaced! I have been chewing off my fingernails waiting for this day.
Me too. It's nice to have the full functionality finally.
Thanks for showing the repair or Lorenzo’s transom. I have been putting off doing the same job on my boat, but now knowing that it can be a successful operation,I am confident of doing the same to my boat.
Awesome project you’ve got going on. That dyneema is ridiculously strong, and will def do the trick, something to look out for would be when you are anchoring, try pay out excess line and make this fast onto the bollard just forward of the storage drum. If you and anchor and the weather gets up the line may bury itself into the storage drum when the tension comes on. This will be an absolute nightmare to get out. It may well be that you were just testing the system, just something to look out for.
For sure, cleating it off would also take the strain off the winch itself while at anchor, definitely something I would do for an overnight stay.
Good progress mate. Cable ties are the classy answer in lieu of a bit of rusty wire! Ingat kuya
Very true! ;)
Sounds like it's running really well though
It is running well, the problem purely causes and oil leak that doesn't affect performance at all.
2:35, D-Squad in the background keeping things safe for the film crew, patrolling the grounds!!!! Nice work girls.
Ok, on the shore power outlet, addressing the safety aspect of running from the wheel house or mounting under the hatch. All shore power in marinas up here in the US have GFCI protection on them, which would ensure that even a small short (to ground or phase to phase) would trip the circuit feeding the boat. I don't see that as a safety issue to be honest. I see bigger problems with that heavy lid crushing a wire. But that's just one mans opinion. Good luck.
Finally some sanity! Thank you Stu!!
Enjoy!
@@DangarMarine USA social media has gone completely insane these last few days...
I would try adding another roller to the anchor holder BEFORE cutting anything. Ron W4BIN
Ron funny who would be looking at these videos 73s from sydney vk2mzz
@busgreasemonkey said in one of his videos - "It's a Detroit, if there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it. If you hang a picture of one on the wall, in the morning there'll be a little puddle of oil on the floor under it."
Great video. I’d go with another roller for the anchor line.
It’s snowing here this morning in eastern North Dakota, USA.
As fellow North Dakotan in the west we got 2in of snow over here
Instead of making the awning detachable it might an option to mount the awning to the roof with some heavy duty hinges and attach the steel wires to a vinch on the roof that way you can lift the awning up and out of the way at the press of a button or adjust the height whenever is needed
Yes, I was talking with Adrian about that a few days ago, would be a very neat feature for the awning to have.
Thanks for another interesting video. On the anchor rode: I take your point about the dyneema- cored double-braid being stronger and allowing more rode to be wound on to the winch, BUT nylon stretches a lot more so acts as a shockabsorber, protecting your winch. If you are going to anchor in a big sea and use the double-braid , you could protect your winch by cleating the double braid to a horn cleat or find another way to snub the line so the strain doesn't damage that lovely winch.
Yes, a snub line with more stretch would be a great thing to have rigged up for bad weather.
That old antenna was ancient GPS!!
Interesting. I was wondering what it was.
Stu, re the inboard end of the bow-roller, I'd advise not to just cut it off! If you put a vertical cut in the webs at the side, you could then bend the end downwards creating a 'lead in' for the chain/rope. Take it home weld the gap with some stainless mig/arc wire, to remove the chafing point on the side. You could even weld a small stainless loop over the top of the inboard end, to ensure the chain/rope never jumps out of the bow-roller channel.
Yes, opening it up does seem a good way to go.
Rather than cut the anchor tray shorter, how about put a 3rd roller right on the end. Even cut the bottom of the tray a bit, so you have 2 wings and the 3rd roller could be lower. So right at the boat end you had a roller to guide the chain/rope seeward.
To my ear that Detroit diesel just purrrs... Renko is nearing perfection, now for some charter work. Looking good Stu, nice to see eddie!
For sure, it runs really sweetly other than the oil ring problem.
Hi Stu: Use two outdoor sockets wired in parallel. One on the cabin exterior and the other on your panel. You will have the best of both worlds without having to leave the lazerette open.
One recommendation I'd make towards your power wall / inverter is to mount a single Co2 fire extinguisher next to it, such a shame the mast wiring was a fight, Another great video Stu
For the remaining hole under the power outlets maybe a bottle opener could go there? On the bow roller maybe slightly bend the extra bit down and put a roller on it to help more 'gently' guide the chain?
Bottle opener is a good idea. ;)
Nice progress Stu, you could add a roller on the end of the anchor guide so the anchor chain and line doesn't rub the guide. Looking good with the wiring enhancements, tell Eddie Hey, Jeff in LA USA
Hi Jeff. Yes, have been thinking about adding a third roller but I'll see how the trimming goes first.
The dyneema anchor rode is great stuff because of its strength/diameter ratio. The weakness is it is not very abrasion resistant. I noticed your concern regarding the anchor chain rubbing the bow anchor bracket. It looks like the dyneema will also rub. Be careful there Mr. Dangar.
I'd like to add another vote for putting in a third roller on the anchor bracket.
Miles and miles of wires .😜👍🏻🇺🇸
Alternative to cutting the bow sprint add another roller.
I would mount the power inlet on the boat cab and add, buy a Clipsal ip 56 - 3 module weather proof box adding the RCD in two of the modules and inlet in the third. It will look neat.
Nice idea, I like that.
Dangar Marine - Clipsal part 56e3 rw and 56sb4
Hey Stu , great videos mate, lived in Manly 25 years ago and loving all stories and theamazing scenery!!!!!!, especially now as its bloody freezing here in the UK.Ha Ha
Affixing something dubiously and then proceeding to grab it and shake while saying "that's not going anywhere"
is a sign of modern manhood, don't take that masculine sign of independence away from yourself
Handsome Unshaved Aussies Drinking Beer and Fixing Boats. Now there’s a TV series.
We'll have to audition. I can drink beer! ;)
I really think a 3rd roller is the easy way to go. Just drill a hole in either side no cutting, no grinding, no metal splinters, and it saves the back 2 holes for adjustment should you acquire/require another anchor.
G'day Stu good work mate.......John
Thanks John.
Mounting the 4G antenna further from the mast would improve propagation characteristics. Also, if you go with VHF antenna for the radio, top of mast will be most efficient. But you can still get by with an automotive magnetic mount on the cabin roof. Before you cut the bow roller feed, how about slotting the coners and bending it out or down a bit for feeding.
Yes, was also concerned about the proximity to the steel mast, might look at other options before I run the wires.
Just a thought to add a marker to anchor chain, so when it's just below or above surface of water you kind of know where it is if retrieve from pilot house.
Yes, that's what Pete and I were talking about at the end of the vid.
I am with Peter, the addition of a roll on the inboard side of your anchor bow spirt will give a reliable feed that the chain won't fowl with the bracket even if it slops around a bit as they tend to do. I don't think that shortening it will resolve the possibility of the chain catching on the leading bracket edge, in particular if it goes a bit slack.
Yes, it is true that no matter how short it is any slack will still catch.
Well done we found the braid let us down the inner let go , and it stretched , the three strand no stretch and easy to splice and good on the hands and lasted longer , years in fact , we marked the last two mtrs and the ,ast meter with paint to indicate it nearly there when hauling up good luck
Really enjoyed your vlog stay safe
This is what I'm looking for. I'm not gonna be around in 20 years I don't need a 20 yr fix either ;)
...good one, fine tuning is always a tedious job. nice work, stay safe and enjoy...
I like those self launch anchors but I am holding out for the self retrieving version to be made
Hi Stu, Good video on the anchor and wiring. Bummer the old wires won't come out but like your plan cut and weld in upcoming video. I see the wiring laying on the batteries needs to be organized. Lots of opportunities still on cleanup. My workshop needs it too. Rain season now so will get the indoor stuff going👍
Hey Tim, yes, it was frustrating with the old wiring, but we'll get there in the end.
Hey, great video as per your norm. Looking forward to the next one! Be well.
Thanks! You too!
Stu, what about drilling an access port close to the bottom of the mast to help you guide cables through,then just cap it with a bolt on cap sealed with some Sicaflex. Instant access if you need to get to it in the future. Great work, by the way. Looking forward to the diving vids. 👌👌
i was thinking the same thing-- just like a lamp post.
You take away quite a bit of structural integrity of the mast by cutting a hole into it. Now, it might not be as important as with a sail boat but it still has to withstand winds.
On the bow roller, why not cut the cheeks away forward and the tongue that remains just bend downwards to match the angle of the chain.
Eddie coming to check on progress and whether his deck kennel is in yet
i wouldn't cut that feed ramp off the stainless bowsprit. Better to cut each side wall where it meets the mounting base & angle it down so it acts as a ramp.
Good call as the chain will allways fall and hit as it pays out, but might leave a few sharp edges.
@@nou238 Should be able to chamfer the cut edges with the grinder Or Stu could move the anchor winch higher up the cabin wall or add a pipe for the chain & rope to feed through.
Yes agreed really need to make a feeder particularly with longer lengths of chain >600mm in horizontal- cut and miter the overhang inside of the stem mount. Definitely need some for of chain feeder -don't always have the perfect anchor launch and retrial particularly caught in a storm and heavy seas.
Went back and checked the video again possibly look at building the sides up on the aft end of the feeder- stainless steel pin across the top so the chain cannot jump off the aft end of the ramp.
@@tonyboats A length of stainless steel 3" or 4" exhaust pipe & have them slightly flare the entry & exit holes would work as a feeder to the bowsprit.
Hi Stu, don't cut it, put another roller there. stops it and it looks great.
Instead of cutting the anchor holder, I would maybe look at getting a bit of HDPE or similar to put around the end so that it protects the steel and also protects the anchor line. From experience, dyneema starts fraying pretty easily when rubbing on anything really.
That would be the least expensive. You could always drill and add another small roller.
Cutting the end off would also eliminate moving it to the utmost forward setting. Place an HDPE guide.
Hey Stu, great amount of work and projects done! Looking forward to see what is going to happen with the mast. Cheers!
Remember when Stu used to release a new video evry week?
Peppermint Farms remembers.
Still do!
Shorepower socket on the pilothouse, no problem if you run wires from there to the galvanic isolator on the engineroom panel.
Just a thought instead of drilling/cutting a hole in your mast where it is worn thin from rust to try and pull the wires etc and patching it which honestly sound like a very temporary repair at best perhaps a better solution would be cut your mast off at the point below where it is rust damaged and weld a flange onto the stub of the mast and weld another flange onto the other section of the mast that was cut off and had the rust damaged section cut off and new pice of pipe/tubing sectioned onto it in its place.(mast extension if you will) then you will have a easy way to remove the mast should you ever pull Renko out of the water and transport it by truck and trailer as well as allowing for easy installation of wiring or serving of the mast (painting etc) in the future. additionally to ensure the where the flange is installed is waterproof and to provide additional reinforcement to the joint it would in my opinion be a good idea to install a section of tubing (preferably stainless steel or aluminum) as a sleeve that fits snugly inside the stub of the mast and into the vertical section of the mast (mast extension) . this could be done by welding it in place but an easier option that should work just as well and if not better is to 3M Panel Bond Adhesive applied to the section of the sleeve being installed in the mast stub. When you would be bolting the two sections of the mast together an O-ring could be installed on the sleeve which I would coat with a waterproof grease (Myself I would use silicone grease because it waterproof and should not damage the insulation of any wiring) additionally I would make a gasket using butyl rubber and install a heavy gauge ground strap between the upper and lower section of the mast and leave a large service loop of wiring (3/4 to 1 meter) in the ceiling area of the cabin.
Not to be a nit picking nag but if Renko were my boat I would spend some time nesting up the wiring you have installed because there are some areas that it is getting a little ratty looking and now is the time dress that all up otherwise before you know it you will have a first class mess on your hands. Sorry again for sounding like a whiny nag but having worked 20 plus years in the telecommunications industry neat orderly wiring is a pet peeve of mine and probably most anyone else who works in the telecom industry.
StaySafe, StayHealthy and keep the wind on your bow and the seas on your stern
Yes, was talking yesterday with a mate about adding a couple of flanges to the mast to make it easily removable. Seems like a worthwhile change for sure.
Renko is really starting to come along nicely Stu. Hopefully those rings start behaving themselves, its a shame to have to tear into a fresh rebuild like that.
One for the algorithm Stu
Thanks Jared. ;)
I would add a second roller to the end to keep your ability to be able to move the whole bow sprit if you need to. Once you cut you make things more complicated if cutting does not wotk
Definitely add another roller
DC and antenna coax will usually play nice (that said I have to chase an issue in the car where my new earth source for my 2ways is stirring the UHF on CB29 but amateur V and U is fine).
The furthest practical distance from the mast you can get with antennas the better.
I've seen a few of them antennas on other boat videos so they seem popular though not sure how good they are. When doing new DC cable in these sort of cases I think you're often better running 7+ core trailer wire for future extras since it's often not THAT much bigger than some other twin core cables and is double insulated.
The earth thing there's a chance the Inverter will see some sort of feedback loop if there's voltage on the earth line, or that there's AC where there should only be DC and then kick out.
I'd have left that neg bus bar as was ... looks more simple no bs no fuss. Used that fuse box for something later up top or down the back. I'd be more concerned about the positive terminals behind the switches in the hutch being able to be hit by a pole or something when working.
Solars look clean like that!!
Shore power SHOULD pickup a fault before it gets to your CPE if you could call it that. So you "should" be protected by shore power up to your isolation equipment. If the earth is hooked to the neg bus bar alongside the inverters then any case of the active opening up and hitting the hull will complete the circuit to earth blowing the shore breaker. In theory.
I was unaware of the "too much" theory for anodes. TIL ....
SMA connectors for your mobile phone antenna have that opposite in many cases ... you go from which has the pin in the centre. FME connectors used in phones often confused me for a bit with that until that was explained to me. SMA connectors etc have an "RP-plug" for reverse polarity ... can't that be fun when you get 2 females that can slide into each other and not make a connection of the centre pin.
Ciglighter sockets are universal so always a good idea.
That roller ... can you put 2 arms back toward the cab off it and squeeze and extra roller in? That would mean the farthest point each end is a roller with a mid for support as well.
Thanks for all the info, definitely now thinking of trying to move that antenna further from the mast before wiring permanently.
The old tangerine Haines full of rotten timber. That brings back memories I would rather forget... LOL
Yes, it certainly is a common problem with these old glass boats.
Hi Stu just put another roller on end of braket the chain will run on it Easy fix. 🔔⚓😊😎 Love the chooks🐔🐔
In many places, the mains "neutral" and "ground" are normally tied together, at (or near) the distribution board. As you'd pointed out in the video, this helps the positive voltages find a safer route to ground than, say, through a human. It also facilitates detection of a ground fault -- the ground wire usually sidesteps the current sensing of your RCD, giving a positive bias (at the current sense) and breaking the circuit. Big Clive has a number of good videos on how that works if you're interested, including teardowns of RCD/GFI-type sockets and breakers.
I wouldn’t worry about oil discharge from the air box drains. Detroit diesels are known to “slobber” from the air box. Many installations have a catch can or tank that collects the oily discharge to keep it from making a mess or fouling the bilge water. With time, it may even taper off as the rings wear in a bit. That engine sounds just fine. The best thing you can do is run it. Sitting still in the marine environment destroys engines prematurely.
I was thinking about just going with a catch can, but it is more than it should be for a rebuild engine. Adrian is thinking that maybe the oil rings are damaged from loading the pistons in to the top of the liner instead of the bottom as they should. Easy mistake to make if you aren't familiar with Detroits.
Looking good Mate, enjoyed the video!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
You could try putting the old roller from the anchor mount on the end of the new anchor mount to stop it from whacking the edge? Great video as always! Much love from Washington State!
Thanks mate.
Leave the engine alone it looks much better now the oil level is down . Pistons all look cleaner have a look at the older video of the engine. Thanks for sharing
Definitely still pushing a lot of oil out the breather and exhaust unfortunately. Been talking to Adrian about making some improvements at the same time so worth giving it one last going over.
Got an idea for the chain hitting.
Use the old roller...would save time from cutting it with the angle grinder.
Argh...really wanted to see those wires out of there! Next week!!!
Me too!
Ah morning coffee sorted! G‘day Stu! Better news on the engine!!
Morning!
@@DangarMarine Looks like a stunning Spring day!! With his pride of place shot in the opening credits, I’ve only just realised Eddie isn’t your dog!!
Bowman heat exchangers?
I'd go with a third roller....just sounds right !
Stu,
Others may have already suggested this...but if you're going to cut a hole in the side of the mast to pull new wires maybe you should consider adding some kind of waterproof box or cover instead of welding it shut for future access.
Yes, future easy access would be a nice thing.
I would put the 240v inlet on the wheel house then run the 2.5 twin & earth to lazarette in 240v approved solid conduit.