Perfect ! I had the bung set from years ago, but had completely forgotten how to use them. The job of fitting a new rad plus new valves went perfectly. I would guess that the total amount of water lost from the 'system' once the rad was drained and gone, was about half a mug. It's a very clever way of doing jobs like this and I would absolutely recommend it - after you first carefully watch Mark's excellent video right through ... 😀
Great video Mark however when your bunging the f&e tank and removing excess primary water when swapping out a trv,how much inhibitor would need to be replenished in f&e tank?
Great video and now I know how to replace the faulty thermostatic valve I have! I would also like to do this with the main water tank feed as the stopcock for it has failed. Is this still possible?
Really useful to see this method thanks!, I changed a 3 way valve recently where I drained the system leaving the mains on...Thick brown water for around ten mins before it cleared, mains off and then I put in inhibitor fluid and refilled. So.... Question is, how do you not leave a customer with a dirty system if you don't drain off the fluid and spot it then? Or would it have been obvious when changing the valve? Thanks
Would this method off bunging work, to replace a seized gate valve, which I need to change before I can move my hot water pipes around in a bathroom refurb?
Is there any reason this method wouldn’t work to replace a seized 2-way Honeywell zone valve? I replaced the head and the new head works electrically from the programmer but it’s impossible to turn the valve (even with pliers when the head is removed) so I guess the rubber ball has disintegrated inside the valve. I don’t really want to drain down an 18 radiator system!
Nice video. Question: could you just turn of the cold water to the F&E tank at the ball valve, let the water level drop by sucking the water out the tank with a wet vac and cap the vent pipe? Is it just to save sucking so much water that you bung the feed pipe? I don’t have a bung (but have a wet vac) and wondered if I could just empty the tank with the water off. Thanks. 👍🏼
Thanks for the excellent video… now I have no excuse do I? What do you call the bungs you use? Is there a special name because I can’t find any on the internet.
Ihave seen two ephenee tanks in a loft, next to each other both plumbed in with open vent on each tank. I suppose they both serve the central heating system, because both were full of water and insulated nicely. Which tank do we plug, in this situation, if I need to replace a radiator valve, please?
It's actually "F & E" tank - I also made the same mistake when I first started investigating how to fix my plumbing issues. You'll find the larger tank probably supplies your shower and the smaller tank is for the central heating system
Hi Mark…I have a gravity fed system with f and e (no obvious overflow on the tank and a new build -as you mentioned there must be some protection at the boiler end so I only have the f and e to block up) . I am considering using this method to change a radiator and install new valves. Luckily I have plastic pipes so I can push them on quick! If I try this could air be drawn in from somewhere else as I have no overflow on the f and e?.. Oh and happy new year! Thanks Brian
Wow, great instructions, I did not know about leaving vent pipe bung on until the system has filled. Top class act you are Sir. Peace goodwill.
Great tutorial! Gonna do this today in order to remove a radiator before decorating.
Very simple language and wonderful explanation. I can do 3 jobs now!!. You are a star!!
Perfect ! I had the bung set from years ago, but had completely forgotten how to use them. The job of fitting a new rad plus new valves went perfectly. I would guess that the total amount of water lost from the 'system' once the rad was drained and gone, was about half a mug. It's a very clever way of doing jobs like this and I would absolutely recommend it - after you first carefully watch Mark's excellent video right through ... 😀
I’ve been bunging the tank outlet, but never the vent pipe. Thanks for this, really useful
Great video Mark, especially the last bit explaining how to un-bung without air rushing in!
Great video Mark, helped me immensely.
Very helpful mate. I was bound to do it in the wrong order lol
Really useful information.
Excellent explanation. Many thanks
Lucky me! There's a valve on the outlet from the tank which just needs closing, plus a speedfit on the vent pipe.
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Really helpful, thanks Mark
Now £25 for the two tapered bungs used. Crazy.
Love your videos… any reason you don’t use a bung on the radiator tails as opposed to the paper you stuff in?
Great video Mark however when your bunging the f&e tank and removing excess primary water when swapping out a trv,how much inhibitor would need to be replenished in f&e tank?
Wine bottle corks do the trick too.
Do you have a video o n how to drain and refill an unvented pressurised system please?
Great video and now I know how to replace the faulty thermostatic valve I have! I would also like to do this with the main water tank feed as the stopcock for it has failed. Is this still possible?
The feed should be fed via the cold water main and turning off the main stopcock to the house should stop the flow.
Really useful to see this method thanks!, I changed a 3 way valve recently where I drained the system leaving the mains on...Thick brown water for around ten mins before it cleared, mains off and then I put in inhibitor fluid and refilled.
So.... Question is, how do you not leave a customer with a dirty system if you don't drain off the fluid and spot it then? Or would it have been obvious when changing the valve?
Thanks
Where did you get the bung with the continuous taper from?
Would this method off bunging work, to replace a seized gate valve, which I need to change before I can move my hot water pipes around in a bathroom refurb?
Well made video, Mark, thanks.
Hi, do I need to clean my loft water tank yearly?
Saved me a cost of a call out
👍👍👍 Mark
Is there any reason this method wouldn’t work to replace a seized 2-way Honeywell zone valve? I replaced the head and the new head works electrically from the programmer but it’s impossible to turn the valve (even with pliers when the head is removed) so I guess the rubber ball has disintegrated inside the valve. I don’t really want to drain down an 18 radiator system!
Nice video.
Question: could you just turn of the cold water to the F&E tank at the ball valve, let the water level drop by sucking the water out the tank with a wet vac and cap the vent pipe? Is it just to save sucking so much water that you bung the feed pipe?
I don’t have a bung (but have a wet vac) and wondered if I could just empty the tank with the water off. Thanks. 👍🏼
Yes I believe you could do just that
Thanks for the excellent video… now I have no excuse do I? What do you call the bungs you use? Is there a special name because I can’t find any on the internet.
I struggled too but found them on Amazon under "Radiator Valve Change Kit"
Ihave seen two ephenee tanks in a loft, next to each other both plumbed in with open vent on each tank. I suppose they both serve the central heating system, because both were full of water and insulated nicely. Which tank do we plug, in this situation, if I need to replace a radiator valve, please?
It's actually "F & E" tank - I also made the same mistake when I first started investigating how to fix my plumbing issues.
You'll find the larger tank probably supplies your shower and the smaller tank is for the central heating system
Could you put an isolation valve on the outlet pipe instead of a bung.
@Trixie K
Okay thanks
would this work in a 3 storey town house?
You generally only fall through a ceiling once
Good,concise and helpful video.Thank you
How to replace a radiator valve.
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Great video mate, appreciated 👍
Hi Mark…I have a gravity fed system with f and e (no obvious overflow on the tank and a new build -as you mentioned there must be some protection at the boiler end so I only have the f and e to block up) . I am considering using this method to change a radiator and install new valves. Luckily I have plastic pipes so I can push them on quick! If I try this could air be drawn in from somewhere else as I have no overflow on the f and e?..
Oh and happy new year! Thanks Brian
👍