Thank you for such an informative demonstration. I really appreciate your "side" comments as well! I bought a Jackery earlier this year, before the smart switch. We installed a manual switch, which is what was available. We haven't yet used it, but are glad we got it at the time.
Thank you for the informative video! I recently received my Jackery 5000 Plus with the smart transfer switch (and 1 extra battery). I have a question about only using 6 gauge wire to connect to your main breaker box. Don't you want to be able to deliver 100 amps to the 12 circuits you have moved to the smart transfer switch? If you only allowed 60 amps, then that is 40 amps of power that you could be drawing from the Grid for those 12 circuits that you no longer have (now instead of allowing five 20 amp circuits to be maxed out when running from grid, you can only use three of them). I have 2 AWG wire and a 100 amp breaker, as well as 6 AWG wire and a 60 amp breaker at the ready for when I get an answer. Thanks!
What’s the failure state of the Jackery smart panel like? So if the electronics on the panel fail, the are my critical circuits all dead too? Can I revert this panel to “dumb” panel if there’s an issue?
It has passthrough functionality when connected to grid power, so I would assume it would keep operating. Of course, I'm sure there's a threshold of punishment where it would stop functioning 😅
One more thing I design smart homes, and nothing is wifi, as any body outside can break the password. Even with a real firewall I don't have any wifi crap in my home.The problem with wifi it's never localized on its own little restricted network.. ~~ Cris H 😊😊😊😊
Great video! What happens when it’s AC charging from the smart home panel? Does the 240V gets disabled and it switches to grid only? Asking as the standalone behavior seems to disable 240V output while AC charging at 120V.
Sounds right? I know the Anker F3800 does this because it has to use one of it's 120V inverters to charge. Couldn't answer with certainty though, sorry!
Are we allowed to strip NM and use it in a raceway with no outer sheathing remaining? There are no markings on the individual conductors, so they are technically not listed when not in the outer sheathing. Other than a few MC types/brands, and SER/SEU,(cause they’re marked internally) no cable assembly can be completely stripped and used in a raceway.
Does the smart transfer switch allow for smart consumption? Charging when there's excess solar energy and powering the house off the battery when costs are high?
I'm curious about the Time of Use (TOU, Charging-Discharging Plan option on the Jackery App) function of the 5000 Plus. Is the 5000 Plus so designed to daily participate in charging from the grid when kWh's are inexpensive (overnite) and automatically (thru App/software settings) to discharge when kWh's are expensive? What do the connections look like in this scenario? Is the transfer switch utilized? If so, are specific circuits in the transfer switch active to receive the energy from the Jackery? If the transfer switch's load circuits are used in the TOU scenario, this suggests that the output is governed by the actual load on only those transfer switch circuits that are 'on'; the whole house load is not be served by both grid & Jackery power at the same time, concurrently? I imagine the Powerwall, Sonnen, Enphase backup storage systems don't deliver their energy output to specific circuits, rather whole house/facility load, concurrent with grid power. Thanks in advance!
great video! My son will start his electricians apprenticeship next month. What multimeter would you recommend? I subscribe to "buy nice or buy twice". Thank you!
I have an existing 350v solar array. If I go with the dual 5000's with the STS will both power stations charge using one high pv solar array or mayby take power from the charged unit and give it to the second 5000 to equalize the battery? I have not see very much on dual station usage.
Well, assuming the electrical loads you plan to run into Smart Transfer Switch (STS) are probably currently landed in your panel, just know that you're multiplying the cost of wire across the #3 running to the main breaker in the STS + all the 12# & 14# (& maybe others?) from the loads that will be extended over from the main panel into the STS. From an electrical perspective, there's no difference between mounting it close to panel or further away (unless you're talking about hundreds of yards, which would require bigger wire due to voltage drop). In fact, given the STS-to-5000+ Jackery cord is only ~6', you may need to position the STS strategically to ensure floor space for the 5000+.
I don't think the Jackery Smart Transfer Switch is compatible with the 1000v2. You're probably better served by an interlock kit to a generator inlet port, but you'll need to be mindful of your loads with only 1kWh of storage.
Ok, me think you messed up. You forgot the plastic insert into the flex 90 deg connector. And if you are worried about al shavings in the cpu thing. Take the switch apart. And blow it with caned air...~~ Cris H 😊😊😊
Yay! I just saw this yesterday and was hoping someone would do a review. Are you a fan of the Jackery transfer switch or the Anker transfer switch? Thanks!
We like Jackery better because it's got higher capacity and more smarts, but we know there are people out there who would actually prefer LESS smarts in the home power infrastructure. Another interesting difference is that the Jackery STS lands the critical loads inside itself where the Anker ATS connects to an external sub-panel. We general prefer fewer metal boxes on the wall (Jackery) UNLESS you already have a critical loads subpanel ready to go (from a gas generator or service expansion or something) and you could just splice in the Anker ATS and you're off and running!
Look at article 334.80. Doesn’t it say, the ampacity shall not exceed that of a 60 degree.C rated conductor. Where does it say you can use the next higher ampacity? Just curious.
The way you ran the 6 awg wire across the panel and hooked it back to terminate looks sad 😢. I used to install all kinds of cables into the terminals. Like copper, fiber optic cables, and electrical. The proper routing is to bring down then across and vertical.
Yeah, it's not uncommon in the industry, but it's usually accompanied by a higher NEMA rating. Little bit of a pain to have to drill, and a little dicey to be drilling into the electronic components, but not unheard of.
No reports that we've heard of. I suppose, given the feed-through nature of the grid power, if certain electronics fail it could? If that happens Jackery will be sued to the moon and back, so I expect they have fail-safes for their fail-safes!
I just got this same panel and I just got it mounted. Since it's a subpanel, I'm assuming that the neutral and ground bars are not bonded. Since they put 1 ground and 1 neutral bar on one side of the panel and 1 ground and 1 neutral bar on the other side of the panel, it seems like it will be very difficult to keep all of my bar ground conductors from touching the main Neutral lug or either of the 2 neutral bars. Do I need to be worried about this, or am I overthinking it?
I wish you didn't say a price point for the installation of Transfer Smart Panel. Now, electricians who view this video will use that 1,000 dollars as a starting point. 😢
The issue with that is that you wouldn't be supplying grid power to the critical loads contained in the STS. Why the interlock? Do you not want the automatic power transfer?
@I want to hang a sub panel off the STS and use the power station to power a pool pump, 240v pool heater and outdoor areas. But I also want to use it as power source to my main panel in a grid down condition. Obviously I’d turn off the breaker to the pool sub panel in that situation, but still have the backup option. That’s why I asked
It looks like Jackery might be giving Ecoflow a run for its money. Just all the connection options alone make me shift from Ecoflow toward Jackery. I would hope that there is no "APP" malarkey required, and no Internet connection required. Really bad idea to have things that control your home connected to the Internet. Also a cellular telephone isn't always handy nor convenient and those "apps" really drain a battery.
Hi PV input and Low PV input with a breaker is OLD news as the EcoFlow Ultra has that so your statement about it being "unique" in the market either shows you do not know about other solar generators, and thus are not a reliable source of information, or you have been paid by Jackery to make an infomercial disguised as a "review"
You're totally right, sorry! It's hard for me to keep all these battery specs top-of-mind while we're filming 😅. The EcoFlow DPU advertises 5.6kW input for a single unit, compared to Jackery 6.75kW for ~$1,000 less. That said, I do greatly appreciate the XT60 low-V solar inputs on the DPU. All this said, we had started writing Jackery off because they hadn't developed a 240V home backup system as quickly as Anker & EcoFlow, but we feel this quickly puts them back on the map.
I like how clean their panel looks
Thank you for such an informative demonstration. I really appreciate your "side" comments as well! I bought a Jackery earlier this year, before the smart switch. We installed a manual switch, which is what was available. We haven't yet used it, but are glad we got it at the time.
Thanks for going into details on the app. Have not seen much of that from other reviews
Great information, great how-to, just a great video...thank you.
Learned something new.
300.18 Raceway Installations
Exception: short sections are not required to be installed complete.
That is a very slick system
Really great video!
Thank you for the informative video! I recently received my Jackery 5000 Plus with the smart transfer switch (and 1 extra battery). I have a question about only using 6 gauge wire to connect to your main breaker box. Don't you want to be able to deliver 100 amps to the 12 circuits you have moved to the smart transfer switch? If you only allowed 60 amps, then that is 40 amps of power that you could be drawing from the Grid for those 12 circuits that you no longer have (now instead of allowing five 20 amp circuits to be maxed out when running from grid, you can only use three of them). I have 2 AWG wire and a 100 amp breaker, as well as 6 AWG wire and a 60 amp breaker at the ready for when I get an answer. Thanks!
What’s the failure state of the Jackery smart panel like? So if the electronics on the panel fail, the are my critical circuits all dead too? Can I revert this panel to “dumb” panel if there’s an issue?
It has passthrough functionality when connected to grid power, so I would assume it would keep operating. Of course, I'm sure there's a threshold of punishment where it would stop functioning 😅
@ Thank you, I appreciate the response!
Did I miss the option to charge the Jackery via a gas generator while off grid? If so, will it supply 240v at the same time?
One more thing I design smart homes, and nothing is wifi, as any body outside can break the password. Even with a real firewall I don't have any wifi crap in my home.The problem with wifi it's never localized on its own little restricted network.. ~~ Cris H 😊😊😊😊
Great video! What happens when it’s AC charging from the smart home panel? Does the 240V gets disabled and it switches to grid only? Asking as the standalone behavior seems to disable 240V output while AC charging at 120V.
Sounds right? I know the Anker F3800 does this because it has to use one of it's 120V inverters to charge. Couldn't answer with certainty though, sorry!
Are we allowed to strip NM and use it in a raceway with no outer sheathing remaining?
There are no markings on the individual conductors, so they are technically not listed when not in the outer sheathing. Other than a few MC types/brands, and SER/SEU,(cause they’re marked internally) no cable assembly can be completely stripped and used in a raceway.
You are correct, if the inspector sees it, it would be a fail. I'm sure he's only pulling wire out of NM cable just for this demonstration though
Number 2 square drive...it's a game changer.
Does the smart transfer switch allow for smart consumption? Charging when there's excess solar energy and powering the house off the battery when costs are high?
Yes, check out 25:30! Self-consumption, as well as an "auto" mode & Time-of-Use if your utility has varying daily rates!
Doesn't it call for a 100amp breaker in the instructions?
Another question, do the 5000 and the smart panel have any UL or CSA listings?
I'm curious about the Time of Use (TOU, Charging-Discharging Plan option on the Jackery App) function of the 5000 Plus. Is the 5000 Plus so designed to daily participate in charging from the grid when kWh's are inexpensive (overnite) and automatically (thru App/software settings) to discharge when kWh's are expensive? What do the connections look like in this scenario? Is the transfer switch utilized? If so, are specific circuits in the transfer switch active to receive the energy from the Jackery?
If the transfer switch's load circuits are used in the TOU scenario, this suggests that the output is governed by the actual load on only those transfer switch circuits that are 'on'; the whole house load is not be served by both grid & Jackery power at the same time, concurrently?
I imagine the Powerwall, Sonnen, Enphase backup storage systems don't deliver their energy output to specific circuits, rather whole house/facility load, concurrent with grid power.
Thanks in advance!
great video! My son will start his electricians apprenticeship next month. What multimeter would you recommend? I subscribe to "buy nice or buy twice". Thank you!
Forgive my ignorance, why wouldn’t the load be terminated in the transfer switch/breakers instead the of having a harness in the load panel beside?
I have an existing 350v solar array. If I go with the dual 5000's with the STS will both power stations charge using one high pv solar array or mayby take power from the charged unit and give it to the second 5000 to equalize the battery? I have not see very much on dual station usage.
Does the smart switch has to be install right next to the main panel? Can it be place like 10-20 feet away? Thanks.
Well, assuming the electrical loads you plan to run into Smart Transfer Switch (STS) are probably currently landed in your panel, just know that you're multiplying the cost of wire across the #3 running to the main breaker in the STS + all the 12# & 14# (& maybe others?) from the loads that will be extended over from the main panel into the STS.
From an electrical perspective, there's no difference between mounting it close to panel or further away (unless you're talking about hundreds of yards, which would require bigger wire due to voltage drop). In fact, given the STS-to-5000+ Jackery cord is only ~6', you may need to position the STS strategically to ensure floor space for the 5000+.
I just got a Jackery 1000 ver2 - do I need a charge controller between the panel & the jackery input? thanks
I don't think the Jackery Smart Transfer Switch is compatible with the 1000v2. You're probably better served by an interlock kit to a generator inlet port, but you'll need to be mindful of your loads with only 1kWh of storage.
Ok, me think you messed up. You forgot the plastic insert into the flex 90 deg connector. And if you are worried about al shavings in the cpu thing. Take the switch apart. And blow it with caned air...~~ Cris H 😊😊😊
Yay! I just saw this yesterday and was hoping someone would do a review. Are you a fan of the Jackery transfer switch or the Anker transfer switch? Thanks!
We like Jackery better because it's got higher capacity and more smarts, but we know there are people out there who would actually prefer LESS smarts in the home power infrastructure. Another interesting difference is that the Jackery STS lands the critical loads inside itself where the Anker ATS connects to an external sub-panel. We general prefer fewer metal boxes on the wall (Jackery) UNLESS you already have a critical loads subpanel ready to go (from a gas generator or service expansion or something) and you could just splice in the Anker ATS and you're off and running!
Look at article 334.80. Doesn’t it say, the ampacity shall not exceed that of a 60 degree.C rated conductor. Where does it say you can use the next higher ampacity? Just curious.
Square drive is a Roberts (Canadian invention) ;)
Ecoflow has high and low. Bluetti has dual mpts. Everyone uses mc4. Are they finally lithium phosphate like everyone else has been for years?
Yes, we felt they were lagging for a while, too. The Explorer 5000 Plus definitely puts them back on the map.
Where are you guys located? I'd love to hire you for an install.
Indianapolis, but we do work in the surrounding states. Email Hello@ElectricProAcademy.com and we'll get you connected!
The way you ran the 6 awg wire across the panel and hooked it back to terminate looks sad 😢.
I used to install all kinds of cables into the terminals. Like copper, fiber optic cables, and electrical.
The proper routing is to bring down then across and vertical.
don't forget to wear a mask to reduce inhaling metal shavings
😆
what a design you have to cut holes by yourself
Yeah, it's not uncommon in the industry, but it's usually accompanied by a higher NEMA rating. Little bit of a pain to have to drill, and a little dicey to be drilling into the electronic components, but not unheard of.
is there a chance the Jackery 5000 can accidentally feed back to the grid?
No reports that we've heard of. I suppose, given the feed-through nature of the grid power, if certain electronics fail it could? If that happens Jackery will be sued to the moon and back, so I expect they have fail-safes for their fail-safes!
I just got this same panel and I just got it mounted. Since it's a subpanel, I'm assuming that the neutral and ground bars are not bonded. Since they put 1 ground and 1 neutral bar on one side of the panel and 1 ground and 1 neutral bar on the other side of the panel, it seems like it will be very difficult to keep all of my bar ground conductors from touching the main Neutral lug or either of the 2 neutral bars. Do I need to be worried about this, or am I overthinking it?
I wish you didn't say a price point for the installation of Transfer Smart Panel. Now, electricians who view this video will use that 1,000 dollars as a starting point. 😢
Can I route a 100a 240v breaker from the smart transfer switch back to a 100a 240v interlocked breaker in my main panel ?
The issue with that is that you wouldn't be supplying grid power to the critical loads contained in the STS. Why the interlock? Do you not want the automatic power transfer?
@I want to hang a sub panel off the STS and use the power station to power a pool pump, 240v pool heater and outdoor areas. But I also want to use it as power source to my main panel in a grid down condition. Obviously I’d turn off the breaker to the pool sub panel in that situation, but still have the backup option. That’s why I asked
You could send me one too try with my solar system
It looks like Jackery might be giving Ecoflow a run for its money. Just all the connection options alone make me shift from Ecoflow toward Jackery. I would hope that there is no "APP" malarkey required, and no Internet connection required. Really bad idea to have things that control your home connected to the Internet. Also a cellular telephone isn't always handy nor convenient and those "apps" really drain a battery.
Why do you need an account on their sever!!! NEVER!!!!~~Cris H 😢😢😢😢
😅
Hi PV input and Low PV input with a breaker is OLD news as the EcoFlow Ultra has that so your statement about it being "unique" in the market either shows you do not know about other solar generators, and thus are not a reliable source of information, or you have been paid by Jackery to make an infomercial disguised as a "review"
You're totally right, sorry! It's hard for me to keep all these battery specs top-of-mind while we're filming 😅. The EcoFlow DPU advertises 5.6kW input for a single unit, compared to Jackery 6.75kW for ~$1,000 less. That said, I do greatly appreciate the XT60 low-V solar inputs on the DPU. All this said, we had started writing Jackery off because they hadn't developed a 240V home backup system as quickly as Anker & EcoFlow, but we feel this quickly puts them back on the map.
Another classic