When I put my export brace on last year, I used dental floss to pull the bolt up threw the hole. Took some time and frustration but got it done. When I replace the springs this year, I think I will use this trick instead. Thanks Andy! Love the channel!
Hi Andy, awesome content. I must have missed the video when you changed shocks. You used to have OEM caps on there as you told me the NACAR trick of two washer under the bolts. I will go back an watch that one. Love the shocks and springs you put on there.
Yeah, I installed some QA1 coilovers in the front and I love them. You should probably start at the beginning and rewatch all the videos, it's good content. :)
My 66 is to low to get my floor jack under in the right place. So when I do work I drive it up on a chunk of 2 x 6 scrap. This gives room for the jack, remove to do the work and put them back when I lower it. Thanks!!
On my first 65 I had a shock tower cap brake. I was driving on Highway 101 in Northern California and I noticed the car was not settling after dips in the road. It would just kinda bounce slightly until it settled. I get out and I'm thinking it's the tires but everything looks fine. I go to pop the hood and realize there's a new dent popping up on my hood. You guessed it the shock tower cap broke and the shock came up and was bouncing against my hood.
Great video as always Andy. - Exellent teaching . Absolute yes; You have it in you Andy. - I love your highly profwssional videos. - Peace and love from Norway. 👍👍👍🕊☮☮☮
Great content, the only thing is that I would also use the best grade bolts that are available like a grade 8 for safety reasons. Best Wishes 🇺🇲 🇵🇷 🦊 👍
My Ace hardware on the stainless bolts is grade 5. Did not have the anodized grade 8 carriage bolts. Actually the Ace hardware (longer length) stainless carriage bolts would not fit and slide in because of the rounded head, not like the Ford ones. Grinding the head down did not work. I had to buy OEM replacements at NPD so I am worried If I can get enough thread when I put on my new export brace. There is a metal base plate under my carriage bolts, so no falling through or down. slide em in and line em up etc etc. Don't know if they will be long enough yet. But this is a 67 Mustang I am working on. Never a problem but always an adventure.
I recall a carriage bolt falling down into hole when doing my export brace. Stuck between the coil and strut, I could not get at it from above or below. Had to fish it out with some chewing gum stuck to a coat hanger. Not fun.
What grade were those carriages? Did I miss that? I would be hesitant to use anything but grade 8 (maybe 5) on those particular bolts. Stock they absorbed all the force the shocks imported to the tower. With the coil overs they now support the entire weight of the car, plus when the suspension compresses and rebounds it focuses the entire force of the car’s mass decelerating downward onto the springs and shocks right into that tower cap. I’d double check with qa1 that the bolts you used are of sufficient tensile strength to handle that force. I tried to see the grade markings on the bolt head but couldn’t make them out. Sorry not trying to be negative, just wanna be safe
I just realized qa1 coil overs still use the spring perch in the tower. So that would just be the shock forces, not the entire car weight. So maybe I’m over reacting.
Andy, any concerns about using what looked like grade 3 hardware? I’m definitely not as well versed as you and trust your judgement/knowledge, but I’ve been told repeatedly by folks to use nothing less than grade 5 or 8 hardware. When I installed my export brace I kept thinking I wanted more ‘thread’ on the bolt as well - should have replaced the bolts! Will save this for a rainy day along with the firewall support that I need to pick up from your online shop. Thanks Andy!
Hi Andy, where did you get those montecarlo bar top mounting bolts? I have hood clearance issue with normal bolts and like to change those like you have. Thanks !
When I put my export brace on last year, I used dental floss to pull the bolt up threw the hole. Took some time and frustration but got it done. When I replace the springs this year, I think I will use this trick instead. Thanks Andy! Love the channel!
That dental floss ideas sounds good! 👍🏻
Nice tip!! Andy.. Love those shocks and springs..... Keep'em coming !!!
Thanks, will do!
Hi Andy, awesome content. I must have missed the video when you changed shocks. You used to have OEM caps on there as you told me the NACAR trick of two washer under the bolts. I will go back an watch that one. Love the shocks and springs you put on there.
Yeah, I installed some QA1 coilovers in the front and I love them.
You should probably start at the beginning and rewatch all the videos, it's good content. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Will do!
Lots of great tips when replacing those carriage bolts. Probably something I'll need to do shortly!
Free video ideas. 😉
Thanks for the update on the shock tower.
No problem 👍
My 66 is to low to get my floor jack under in the right place. So when I do work I drive it up on a chunk of 2 x 6 scrap. This gives room for the jack, remove to do the work and put them back when I lower it. Thanks!!
Yeah, I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that with my car. So far so good. :)
On my first 65 I had a shock tower cap brake. I was driving on Highway 101 in Northern California and I noticed the car was not settling after dips in the road. It would just kinda bounce slightly until it settled. I get out and I'm thinking it's the tires but everything looks fine. I go to pop the hood and realize there's a new dent popping up on my hood. You guessed it the shock tower cap broke and the shock came up and was bouncing against my hood.
That could have been very bad, I guess you cashed in your chips that day. :)
Glad I'm not the only one that goes to the hardware store and buys somewhere between 2 & 5 different length/size bolts to see which fits. 😅
Guaranteed figment, sort of. 😁
Did the same on mine w/ the same bolts from ace hardware. I used butyl rubber in the slots for the carriage bolt, but I like the quick nuts.
That sounds like a good idea. 😁
Great video as always Andy. - Exellent teaching . Absolute yes; You have it in you Andy. - I love your highly profwssional videos. - Peace and love from Norway. 👍👍👍🕊☮☮☮
Thanks!!
Great content, the only thing is that I would also use the best grade bolts that are available like a grade 8 for safety reasons. Best Wishes 🇺🇲 🇵🇷 🦊 👍
Sounds good.
My Ace hardware on the stainless bolts is grade 5. Did not have the anodized grade 8 carriage bolts. Actually the Ace hardware (longer length) stainless carriage bolts would not fit and slide in because of the rounded head, not like the Ford ones. Grinding the head down did not work. I had to buy OEM replacements at NPD so I am worried If I can get enough thread when I put on my new export brace. There is a metal base plate under my carriage bolts, so no falling through or down. slide em in and line em up etc etc. Don't know if they will be long enough yet. But this is a 67 Mustang I am working on. Never a problem but always an adventure.
Hi Mate, -Yes absolute, I agree with, but Andy is doing an exellent job. I guess you love these videos as I do 👍👍☮☮☮
@@oleandreasjensen5263 I know Andy has shown and taught me many things!
@@robertclymer6948 Hi mate, Me to, He is very clever : )
Nice vid. I think those washers are called either a push nut or push washer depending on the mfg.
Yeah, I think they’re something like that. 🙂
I recall a carriage bolt falling down into hole when doing my export brace. Stuck between the coil and strut, I could not get at it from above or below. Had to fish it out with some chewing gum stuck to a coat hanger. Not fun.
Wow, sometimes we have to get creative when working in these cars. 😁
@@AndyKruseChannelYes Sir sometimes You have to think outside of the box! 🇺🇲 🇵🇷 🦊 👍
Great looking mustang. Where did you get the adjustable export brace, I would love to have one?
I made it, you can buy one on my website, KruseBuilt.com
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks Andy, I will check your website out.
What grade were those carriages? Did I miss that? I would be hesitant to use anything but grade 8 (maybe 5) on those particular bolts. Stock they absorbed all the force the shocks imported to the tower. With the coil overs they now support the entire weight of the car, plus when the suspension compresses and rebounds it focuses the entire force of the car’s mass decelerating downward onto the springs and shocks right into that tower cap. I’d double check with qa1 that the bolts you used are of sufficient tensile strength to handle that force.
I tried to see the grade markings on the bolt head but couldn’t make them out.
Sorry not trying to be negative, just wanna be safe
I just realized qa1 coil overs still use the spring perch in the tower. So that would just be the shock forces, not the entire car weight. So maybe I’m over reacting.
Andy, any concerns about using what looked like grade 3 hardware? I’m definitely not as well versed as you and trust your judgement/knowledge, but I’ve been told repeatedly by folks to use nothing less than grade 5 or 8 hardware. When I installed my export brace I kept thinking I wanted more ‘thread’ on the bolt as well - should have replaced the bolts! Will save this for a rainy day along with the firewall support that I need to pick up from your online shop. Thanks Andy!
:)
Minimum tensile strength for grade 2 is 60,000 psi, and there's 3 bolts per shock. We're good. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel fair enough :)
Hi Andy, where did you get those montecarlo bar top mounting bolts? I have hood clearance issue with normal bolts and like to change those like you have. Thanks !
I sell them as part of the kit for my Monte Carlo bar on my website. But they’re just your standard button head cap screws. 🙂
Greetings!, please tell me what is the operating temperature of the v8 engine large block Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 with a volume of 7 liters.
Sorry, I don't know that. :)