Hi Kiara, I happen to be a licensed german car mechanic and have been working as a motorcycle mechanic for some years. If you were to bring this bike to me right now, with the premise that you have to have this fixed without actually replacing the crankcase, I would attempt the following. First off, I cannot believe how unlucky I think you are. Breaking your chain, although it can happen, is extremely rare, and especially not on a bike that looked like yours. It looked like they took care of it, but then again, chain maintenance is something a lot of people neglect. You are one unlucky bird I have to say, but then again, you are lucky that the chain didn't lock your rear and made you crash. Keep in mind, once you are back up and running again, if you take good care of your chain, a good quality chain will last you thousands of miles with no worries whatsoever. Ok, here we go... 1. Threading a hole into the case under the broken stud piece. I would try to determine how much "meat" is still left in the crank/clutch case under the surface of the broken stud to possibly still drill and thread more thread into the case in order to get a longer bolt through the broken stud to hold the clutch actuator assembly in place. I am almost certain though, actually seeing it myself, that I would probably not attempt it just yet, as the risk of protruding into the case is high. This could be attempted as a last ditch effort with the clear acknowledgment that this might be the last task before having to replace the case anyway. 2. Riding it with only two screws attached. (Most likely what will happen anyway) Unfortunately the pressure of your clutch plates through your clutch rod will keep on putting bending forces on your two existing bolts, and the clutch will most likely feel pretty soft as the throw out assembly will flex. Make sure that you'll use at least blue Loctite thread locker, possibly red, on both of these bolts by filling the threads and covering the bolt threads fully. Gluing the aluminum stud will most likely not hold at all, as the throw out mechanism will put tension on the break surface which isn't even anymore either. You might be able to wing it for a while this way. The good news is that you won't "break" it more by trying it this way, unless your clutch simply wouldn't separate anymore properly and the gears changes are getting sticky and rough. That's your cue that it didn't work. 3. Aluminum welding the stud back onto the case. There is one other possible fix that doesn't require you to take the engine apart. Have a welder aluminum weld the stud back on. You might have to replace the clutch rod seal, as the heat might melt it. I have been riding for 40 years and have only had one chain snap on me. In the future, as a rule, when you buy a used bike, putting a new chain and sprocket set on it is highly recommended, as most people don't maintain their chains. Also, watch some youtube videos on how to evaluate chains and sprockets. th-cam.com/video/J2xAlkOf8MI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=syM_QmuMTQxotQ_p My chain broke where the chain link lock was. I recommend not using a chain link lock, but rivet it instead. There are good chain rivet kits out there, don't buy cheap chinese crap for that. The rivet kit allows you to break the chain as well. you'll need your dremel tool or a die grinder for that too. Also, don't buy cheap no brand chains, I see the one you had there (D.I.D) is a good brand chain. For daily street use o-ring chain or x-ring chains are better than high performance roller chains that require more maintenance and more often replacement. Last but not least: I highly recommend installing an electronic automatic chain oiler. www.scottoiler.com/de/ It automatically lubes your chain while riding and will make your chain last a LOT longer. If there is one thing that I would say I hated riding bikes for 40 years now is, lubing the chain. The Scott Oiler takes magically care of that. The V3.1 version is what I would invest money in, I have ridden it on my 2023 MT09 SP now for a while and will never go back to spray cans. Last option: One other way to fix it properly and hold up long term, maybe there are some affordable engines to swap out there. It might end up being cheaper than replacing the entire crank case due to the labor involved. Good luck with the repair. Keep on posting. Oliver
Hello Oliver! Thank you so much for your detailed comment and advice! It’s great to hear from someone with so much experience, especially with such an in-depth breakdown of options. You're absolutely right-breaking the chain was such a rare and unlucky event. I’ve been reflecting on how much worse it could’ve been if the chain had locked the rear wheel, so I definitely feel fortunate in that regard. As for your suggestions: I decided to use the clutch actuator assembly with just two bolts as it seems like the best option for me at the moment. I make a reference to your comment in the next episode! I'm going forward with the repair but keeping in mind that I might have to do an engine swap. All the current repairs are assuming the interior is in working order, but of course I can not know until I ride the bike. For now, I’m hopeful these fixes will get the bike running again. Thanks again for all your advice and recommendations, I truly appreciate it and take it very seriously!
Before you spend any more money on this bike rotate the counter shaft sprocket by hand and see if this thing will shift through the gears. Also the part that broke off is what disengages the clutch. If the transmission isn't broken and you get this to run you had better have a plan as what to do when it breaks off again and you're going down the road in 6th gear.
I have! It shifts into each gear easily so as far as I can tell the gearbox is okay. Luckily, clutchless shifting would still be possible if the piece breaks off again.
I only got this bike a few months ago and rode it for 1500km. Unfortunately I don't know the age of the chain but it may have snapped due to insufficient lubrication. Check out my previous video for the full explanation!
This is all patchwork.... maybe you should bite the bullet and replace the crankcase, I know it's so much more work, but the opoxy will not hold in that place. There is oil, heat, vibrations, and crankcase pressure....it's only going to hold for a very small time and give way, leaving you with even more lost time and money.
Long-term I will have to, yes! I'm just hoping to at least ride it for another season as the bike itself was such a big financial investment this year already. But you're right - it is not a full repair.
You can check out my previous video for details, but it snapped at I suspect the weakest link. It may have happened due to dryness, age or sinply because it was worn out.
Hi Kiara,
I happen to be a licensed german car mechanic and have been working as a motorcycle mechanic for some years.
If you were to bring this bike to me right now, with the premise that you have to have this fixed without actually replacing the crankcase, I would attempt the following.
First off, I cannot believe how unlucky I think you are. Breaking your chain, although it can happen, is extremely rare, and especially not on a bike that looked like yours.
It looked like they took care of it, but then again, chain maintenance is something a lot of people neglect.
You are one unlucky bird I have to say, but then again, you are lucky that the chain didn't lock your rear and made you crash.
Keep in mind, once you are back up and running again, if you take good care of your chain, a good quality chain will last you thousands of miles with no worries whatsoever.
Ok, here we go...
1. Threading a hole into the case under the broken stud piece.
I would try to determine how much "meat" is still left in the crank/clutch case under the surface of the broken stud to possibly still drill and thread more thread into the case in order to get a longer bolt through the broken stud to hold the clutch actuator assembly in place.
I am almost certain though, actually seeing it myself, that I would probably not attempt it just yet, as the risk of protruding into the case is high.
This could be attempted as a last ditch effort with the clear acknowledgment that this might be the last task before having to replace the case anyway.
2. Riding it with only two screws attached. (Most likely what will happen anyway)
Unfortunately the pressure of your clutch plates through your clutch rod will keep on putting bending forces on your two existing bolts, and the clutch will most likely feel pretty soft as the throw out assembly will flex.
Make sure that you'll use at least blue Loctite thread locker, possibly red, on both of these bolts by filling the threads and covering the bolt threads fully.
Gluing the aluminum stud will most likely not hold at all, as the throw out mechanism will put tension on the break surface which isn't even anymore either.
You might be able to wing it for a while this way.
The good news is that you won't "break" it more by trying it this way, unless your clutch simply wouldn't separate anymore properly and the gears changes are getting sticky and rough.
That's your cue that it didn't work.
3. Aluminum welding the stud back onto the case.
There is one other possible fix that doesn't require you to take the engine apart.
Have a welder aluminum weld the stud back on.
You might have to replace the clutch rod seal, as the heat might melt it.
I have been riding for 40 years and have only had one chain snap on me.
In the future, as a rule, when you buy a used bike, putting a new chain and sprocket set on it is highly recommended, as most people don't maintain their chains.
Also, watch some youtube videos on how to evaluate chains and sprockets.
th-cam.com/video/J2xAlkOf8MI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=syM_QmuMTQxotQ_p
My chain broke where the chain link lock was.
I recommend not using a chain link lock, but rivet it instead.
There are good chain rivet kits out there, don't buy cheap chinese crap for that.
The rivet kit allows you to break the chain as well. you'll need your dremel tool or a die grinder for that too.
Also, don't buy cheap no brand chains, I see the one you had there (D.I.D) is a good brand chain.
For daily street use o-ring chain or x-ring chains are better than high performance roller chains that require more maintenance and more often replacement.
Last but not least:
I highly recommend installing an electronic automatic chain oiler.
www.scottoiler.com/de/
It automatically lubes your chain while riding and will make your chain last a LOT longer.
If there is one thing that I would say I hated riding bikes for 40 years now is, lubing the chain. The Scott Oiler takes magically care of that. The V3.1 version is what I would invest money in, I have ridden it on my 2023 MT09 SP now for a while and will never go back to spray cans.
Last option:
One other way to fix it properly and hold up long term, maybe there are some affordable engines to swap out there.
It might end up being cheaper than replacing the entire crank case due to the labor involved.
Good luck with the repair.
Keep on posting.
Oliver
Hello Oliver! Thank you so much for your detailed comment and advice! It’s great to hear from someone with so much experience, especially with such an in-depth breakdown of options. You're absolutely right-breaking the chain was such a rare and unlucky event. I’ve been reflecting on how much worse it could’ve been if the chain had locked the rear wheel, so I definitely feel fortunate in that regard.
As for your suggestions:
I decided to use the clutch actuator assembly with just two bolts as it seems like the best option for me at the moment. I make a reference to your comment in the next episode!
I'm going forward with the repair but keeping in mind that I might have to do an engine swap. All the current repairs are assuming the interior is in working order, but of course I can not know until I ride the bike. For now, I’m hopeful these fixes will get the bike running again.
Thanks again for all your advice and recommendations, I truly appreciate it and take it very seriously!
Before you spend any more money on this bike rotate the counter shaft sprocket by hand and see if this thing will shift through the gears. Also the part that broke off is what disengages the clutch. If the transmission isn't broken and you get this to run you had better have a plan as what to do when it breaks off again and you're going down the road in 6th gear.
I have! It shifts into each gear easily so as far as I can tell the gearbox is okay. Luckily, clutchless shifting would still be possible if the piece breaks off again.
Hello, did you tighten your chain too much and ran for very long ?
I only got this bike a few months ago and rode it for 1500km. Unfortunately I don't know the age of the chain but it may have snapped due to insufficient lubrication. Check out my previous video for the full explanation!
This is all patchwork.... maybe you should bite the bullet and replace the crankcase, I know it's so much more work, but the opoxy will not hold in that place. There is oil, heat, vibrations, and crankcase pressure....it's only going to hold for a very small time and give way, leaving you with even more lost time and money.
Long-term I will have to, yes! I'm just hoping to at least ride it for another season as the bike itself was such a big financial investment this year already. But you're right - it is not a full repair.
How does a chain "rip?"
You can check out my previous video for details, but it snapped at I suspect the weakest link. It may have happened due to dryness, age or sinply because it was worn out.
Hope you can get your bike sorted and back on the road again 👍🏻