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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- Resin coating a hand-painted skateboard, Learn with me, and find out what not to do and things to avoid.
Key lessons,
- Make sure surface is clean and dry before pouring resin.
- Don't use the blow torch for too long and overheat the resin.
- Peel off the tape around the 5-6 hour mark.
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You're incredibly brave for doing this, Epoxy resin is such a nice finish but so unpredictable to work with.
Thanks so much Kieran, It's soooo tricky, the curved surface of the skateboard is particularly challenging. I've just finished another one yesterday, better results but still not perfect! (video soon) Just got to keep trying, maybe keep the designs simple so that if I ruin it, its not so bad XD
You should torch for bubbles much sooner, every 10 minutes or so immediately after you’re done covering. 2-3 times typically does it
Nothing is ruined in art. If anything, you're learning. Sometimes, the mistakes are the best part of the process.
I watched this, and i have to say its nice to see where things go wrong! i find i learn a lot more from those than polished videos of finished pieces. Well done on this. and great lookin finish ^^
thanks so much, I think so too, it's important to share mistakes, and hopefully I might get even more insight from others who've had the same thing happen. I really appreciate your comment, thank you for watching! :)
So tru & sometimes the mistakes turn into making something custom even better,that makes it 1 of a kind.
🙌🙌 100%
Great video.. some good points to note. And can always learn from our mistakes 💯
Still incredible!
:)
Looks great and very helpful video.
The same has happened to me unfortunately but as you say, it’s all a learning.
Btw I use clear fishing line to hang them, very strong and almost invisible, either that or a small d ring bracket screwed to the back of the deck. 👍👍
Your videos are so inspiring. Thank you so much for sharing your creative process and all of your trial and error. I found you because I decided I want to paint a skateboard and needed help with the best materials to use. You’ve been very helpful and I’ll be subscribing for more amazing artwork!
Thanks so much, so so nice to hear that 🙏
My guess is the varnish. If it was an oil based or even an enamel based varnish sprayed on that especially would interfere with the resin. Oil and epoxy don't mix because the presence of oil messes with the exothermic process required for the resin to cure properly and evenly.
Thank you thank you thank you for this! This is so helpful and inspiring. Love your dedication to this project- it turned out well!!
You are so so welcome I’m glad it helped! Thanks so much for watching 🙏
I love that you left it as it was
Thank you for this video because I was making the same mistakes, unfortunately, I was working on a commission board and couldn't hang it up. Although I wanted to keep it because the custom paint came out better than I could have ever imagined. I'll pm a photo of the board.
I eventually worked out all the resin kinks, the owner was so impressed he gave me his drop through long deck to paint.
I think he kept the first deck as an art piece and has it hung up somewhere.
Thanks again, I couldn't have finished this epic project without this video.
Beth Curtis
Hot Artist Mess by beth
Do! I’d love to see! And thank you so much, that means a lot. I’m so glad you were able to fix and fill out all the kinks 🙏🙏
Still would love having it hanging on my wall! Epic work!
VERY INTERESTING 🙏🛹
especially for me who starts in the custom skate ^^
Great work! I probably shouldn't comment since I'm no professionnal and my theory might be rubbish but I think the solvent contained within the spray varnish didn't get enough time to evaporate in that specific area. I suggest you let it seat longer even if it looks dry. (I'm saying this because this happens with filler and paint in body repair car shops)
Definitely think this was the case 👌
Youve discovered a great moon effect
What a power move. Over coming your mistakes. A boomer could never. I love it.
Hi great vids. I make skateboards and resin them without taping under neath. I stick Q-tips in the holes and then pull them out after 35 min or so. Then after everything is cured. The next day I just sand the bottom with a sander and add my grip tape :)
You can sand that tape right off :)
Oooh thanks so much about the Q-Tip trick! That’s a big issue I have with the holes, the resin always separates around them, I was thinking plasticine could work but not sure how I would remove midway through!
I need to invest in a sander! Ahaha
Would you recommend resin for boards you intend to ride? I'm worried it might make the board too heavy or brittle
@@arax20 if you just want to cruise on it or if it’s a longboard it’s fine, i personally wouldn’t recommend it for boards you want to do tricks on, as it can affect the flexibility 👌
I’m keen to know what Rich recommends though as I don’t skate so could be wrong :)
I also like that you hung it with thread, I used shoe laces ! Also my tape was stuck to the back and some ripped the resin up, so I sanded it instead
Thanks for showing what went wrong!
Dang was expecting to see some trucks and wheels go on and how they fit with the resin
Next time you can check how to laminate a surfboard first. It'll help to avoid issues.
You can use a brush to spread the epoxy. No need for a think layer. Thin is better.
Also, chose a faster curing epoxy, it'll avoid all the imperfections as it'll be hard in about 30mins, avoiding all those things and avoid cold temperature, as it'll take longer to cure.
Alternatively, you can get a clear cote spray can from the local car repair shop. Easier to apply and great results, and less work with perfect results. You can apply multiple layers if needed.
Faster curing sounds a lot more appealing, I’ll look into it 👌👌
@@NicMac if it's too slow to cure, could be due to temperature, type of epoxy, wrong amount of A+B ratio and also expired epoxy
@@robertical no, The epoxy I used takes 24 hours to cure. But thanks for all the other info 🙏
@Unknown Soldier no you need to spray it with a varnish/sealant first....brushing across or over poscas will smudge
Well done, great video and great message
I use plastic combs for spreading,works good
Great work !
Don't stop :)
thank you for sharing your experience throughout this journey! I've also made the mistake of peeling the tape off too late after a full cure. but just curious, do you have any other tips aside from peeling the tape off in the 5-6 hour mark to assure clean edges? such as maybe sanding afterwards, or any other tips? much appreciated!
So hard working with a curved surface. Glad my fist experience with epoxy went better then this, it is a tricky thing to work with. Still is a nice project 👌
Hey I had the same thing happen to me. Do you think it might be the type of resin I’m using? Any new tips you’ve learned
Thanks for this video, very same thing happened to me!
Oh Lordy I’m sorry! Ahaha do you know for certain if it was a chemical reaction?
@Nic Mac I am unsure...I have done 2 boards...both had same issue. The only thing I had on them was a layer of spray varnish. I am going to try to sand them tomorrow and re-resin them. I have one more I haven't started yet...I had varnished it too though, so I am worried to start it.
@@jamielesniowski9602 how long had the spray varnish been on the board for before You resined it? I think the second time I did it, it was better though I had a little bit of an issue, though I think it was due to not having mixed it properly….man, ahaha it’s a tricky tricky thing but so worth it when it works!!! Do let me know more, all this info is useful 🙏🙏
Thank you for the video!! How did you keep the holes open with the resin?
Honestly I loved the GREEN TAPE ( *you should’ve left the thin line at the edge* )
Wouldn't a heat gun be more appropriate with much even heat coming out of it? You're doing great stuff! Keep up!
just keep the torch moving quickly and i use a headlamp to see as close as possible. never a bubble or burnt resin
Bahhh just had the same thing happen to me. I wish I would have seen your other video. Do you think if you varnished after you sanded it down then re poured it that it would have finished flat?
@@saskchauchtv7417 I wouldn’t “varnish” with normal varnish on resin, it also runs the risk of reacting badly when you do re-pour…. but as I did with this, repouring after sanding definitely fixes it, but of course for this board it needed a third go to make it flat cause the damage was pretty bad, but as I explain in the video I had my reasons for not doing it that third time, are you going to give it a second go? If you sand it down as much as you can, and if it’s a flat surface )unlike my curved board) it should work a treat for you 👌👌
@NicMac yeah I'm going to keep going untill she's nice and flat. I've put too many hrs into this project to stop now haha. Thanks for the reply!
@@saskchauchtv7417 good luck!!!
I think it looks cool kinda like ke abstract art
This is happening to my boards even withought the varnish on, i'm applying over acrylic paints with no added chemicals i.e silicone or varnish. Any ideas why this is happening?
Просто волшебно )) очень круто
The cratered bubbles could probably be done intentionally to create an effect with art that looks like a lunar or martian surface.
1-10, how did the final finish look to you?
Super still
3d art on the deck would be so cool cant skate it prob but still. From this mistake u can prob do water dropps it would look so realistic
You’re right! That would be really cool to experiment with!!! Maybe I’ll have to give it a go some time 👌
I added the first coat of resin and board looked exactly the same with large patches of no resin! Arhhhh!
Ohhh I'm sorry, It is really is frustrating but totally fixable! did you put anything on it before hand that you think reacted? I'll be interested to know if you have an idea why it happened.
Those mistakes are very common when starting to use epoxy resin, it's due to the curate time (24-48h) which is very long for a skateboard that has curves and color from the artwork. I highly suggest using epoxy resin that curates 80% in around 15min and all your "problems" will be completely gone. When is drying that fast, the resin does not have the time to leave part of the skateboard without it. The day after you will have an amazing skate with a thick and smooth epoxy layer and the tape will be super super easy to peel (I suggest masking tape that uses a non strong glue). Hope that helps!! any more questions just DM me on Ig @fabiaguilarsurf
@@fabiana.aguilarf Do you have a brand you can recommend? One that cures fast as you say.
🤘❤🤘
What happens if its still sticky after it sat for a week
It may not have been mixed thoroughly enough and isn’t able to cure properly
Nice!
Oh wow thanks so much for checking out my video, man!
I’m trying something like this. How do people polish or sand the resin?
Fine sand paper works, I have only sanded resin for the purposes of applying a second coat though, But I have heard people can polish it from sanding too but I never have as it’s shiney enough. ✊
When mine went rippled I sold it for more as a “ripple effect” with resin hahahaha 😅 fewww
Ahahaha smart! 😉
Keep adding layers till you sre certain that it has an all around coating as thick as you want and then sand the piss out of it till all the fish eyes are gone. Then use finer amd finer sand paper all the way to 5000 grit.....then polish it will come out bitchin i swear.
haha that does sound like the way! what are the "fish eyes"? the drips? or the holes?
@@NicMac the fish eyes are the voids that didnt fill in.
Same shit happened to me but I remade it😥
Oh no!!! It’s a massive bummer! I’m so sorry!
why not just ride it
It looks like a combo of fisheye and the heat didn't help
Oooo, What’s the fish eye?
@@NicMac when the surface has oils or a chemical that made a reaction with the resin, the best solution is to wait for it to cure and sand it down a little and apply the resin again.