Looks great! Taking the design to the next level, doing the things I ran out of energy and time for D: Good job, really well done. Self righting is a great feature.
Hi Jotham B; i'm using your design with some small changes especially over the windshield where I have made similar to stepan muller design, also with your rollcage and pilots; right now at sanding to primer ready phase; because this is the first rc boat and I intend to use the 3d vectoring thrust, can you tell me what radio setup do you use for 3d vectoring? thank you
Great work on design and details. Looks like you're going to have a lot of fun taking to places that you can open it up for longer periods. Add a 5 8Ghz TX and camera for FPV goggles for a real challenging driving experience. Decrease steering throw may be needed though. Use RainX on camera housing to keep view distortion free of water blurring. 👍👍
I do love this boat . I really want a boat just like this , only smaller. 12" in overall length. I believe that 12" is the longest a pool boat should be . I think 11" would be perfect. I have a 9" sprint jet and it works great . But it has a brushed motor. And on a 2s 7.4v 1000mAh the boat runs for over 20 minutes. The problem is it is not water cooled and the motor got to 170°f the battery was about 87°f ... I would love to find a small brushless motor and water cool it . And run on 3s for just a bit more power . Your design and craftsmanship is awesome. I love the cover motor with the drivers too. And the way it the servo turn it without a wire is amazing.
If you want more efficient consider going to a single stage pump. Also explore using metal 3D printed impellers. If you talk to customer support at shapeways they'll let you trial their up and coming 316L stainless material - much smoother surface finish than their other metals and almost the same price. When I got it quoted it was around 35usd for a 35mm impeller?
Thanks. I know that a single stage pump might produce more thrust but I have never succeeded getting the priming good enough - and problems with priming is also what I see on most boats with single stage pumps. Also the realism is another thing.
@@mjetdevelopment interesting. I found the swept back leading edges of the blades + sharpening them very well makes all the difference. 2 stage is awesome from a realism perspective.
Wow. Really nice improvements. How did you solved the 3d printed boat hull to not get injured by the water? Did you apply something outside for better water resistance?
Thanks! So far it is just PLA and I did not do any sanding or coating. It leaks a little bit, I will probably apply a clear lacquer on the outside on the final version, and I might sand it as well.
Your leaks might not be coming from the shaft. With some filaments, the water can travel through the walls, therefore I recommend painting the hull if this is your case. Also, some people reported that the leaks are coming from where the watercooling channel is. Someone was able to fix this by drilling through the watercooling channel and inserting a brass tube, but that is a pretty heavy modification. Another source might be around the zip tie slots of the receiver and ESC mount. If you check these 3 areas specifically, then you migt be able to stop it.
@@mjetdevelopment but i can leave the boat on the water for 15min and no water comes in, not even a drop, but if i put the cover on and use it for real (3080 4s too, monster) then i get at least 1 soup spoon of water per 10sec. sill think its straight from the plastic ? yes its PLA, with 5-6 coats of paint, but no paint in the flip hole, the hull hole to flip, maybe only by there ? but still, i can leave it float freely for a long time and no water inside.. also i can see no water comes from any coolant tubes or o-rings cause i use at min or max power in my hand, in the water, to see if leaks, no leak at all.
@@shoyur That is strange, unfortunately I do not know any easy solution for that, given that you have already painted the hull, and the water does not leak when you hold the boat stationary. I estimate the flip hole is not the issue, because when running forward, the water runs ouf of it. Because the leaks only happen when the boat is running forward, I think the pump is the most likely source of leaks, because the pressure in the intake when it is running is higher than when stationary, which is why you dont get the leaks when just holding the boat. If you eventually decide to print the hull again, I have a mod for the rear hull (not in the folder, it was just for one person who asked) where the O-ring is replaced by a rotary shaft seal (sometimes called oil seal) which should seal better if this is the problem. So if you message me on CGTrader, I can send this file to you. Maybe you could also just try to drill the place where the O-ring sits from the inside of the boat and put a rotary shaft seal there. These are my best ideas but I dont know if they will help.
@@pommesfritz603 As a complete guess, I would say 2 months. But I do not know how much time I will have and if the next version works perfectly or not.The lockdown does not make things easier either
Hi, this boat is not sold physically. You can buy 3D printable computer files and 3D print your own. Check my video "M-Jet Sprint Release": th-cam.com/video/ft1p1KqpupI/w-d-xo.html
The final version is out. The boat you can see in this particular video is older than what is on CGTrader. You might be asking because of the drybox - it looked like a good idea, but then I tested it properly and realized it was leaking through it anyway, so later I decided to remove the drybox and rework the main seal instead. This decreased the amount of leaks significantly so the drybox is no longer included, also saving some space in the boat. Does this answer your question?
Looks great! Taking the design to the next level, doing the things I ran out of energy and time for D:
Good job, really well done. Self righting is a great feature.
Hi Jotham B; i'm using your design with some small changes especially over the windshield where I have made similar to stepan muller design, also with your rollcage and pilots; right now at sanding to primer ready phase; because this is the first rc boat and I intend to use the 3d vectoring thrust, can you tell me what radio setup do you use for 3d vectoring? thank you
Genius Design as always. Didn't expect anything else!
wow!!! i him so exiting... can t wait to get those stl.. keep up the good work!!
So much faster with the V8, awesome stuff!!
great design, I bought it and I am printing the last 4 parts. You did a great job.
Nice, thanks!
Great project 😍🤙 lg and ceya 🍀
Great work on design and details. Looks like you're going to have a lot of fun taking to places that you can open it up for longer periods.
Add a 5 8Ghz TX and camera for FPV goggles for a real challenging driving experience. Decrease steering throw may be needed though. Use RainX on camera housing to keep view distortion free of water blurring. 👍👍
I do love this boat . I really want a boat just like this , only smaller. 12" in overall length. I believe that 12" is the longest a pool boat should be . I think 11" would be perfect. I have a 9" sprint jet and it works great . But it has a brushed motor. And on a 2s 7.4v 1000mAh the boat runs for over 20 minutes. The problem is it is not water cooled and the motor got to 170°f the battery was about 87°f ... I would love to find a small brushless motor and water cool it . And run on 3s for just a bit more power . Your design and craftsmanship is awesome. I love the cover motor with the drivers too. And the way it the servo turn it without a wire is amazing.
Paráda! Už sa nám aj pocasicko rysuje na lode
I hope you can share the files soon. I love the jet design
sweeeet!!!!
If you want more efficient consider going to a single stage pump. Also explore using metal 3D printed impellers. If you talk to customer support at shapeways they'll let you trial their up and coming 316L stainless material - much smoother surface finish than their other metals and almost the same price. When I got it quoted it was around 35usd for a 35mm impeller?
Thanks. I know that a single stage pump might produce more thrust but I have never succeeded getting the priming good enough - and problems with priming is also what I see on most boats with single stage pumps. Also the realism is another thing.
@@mjetdevelopment interesting. I found the swept back leading edges of the blades + sharpening them very well makes all the difference. 2 stage is awesome from a realism perspective.
You actually inspired me to make a video about this :D thanks
Nice build. When you gun the motor it looks like the pump is submerging the boat presumably because your sucking the water UP so fast.
Thank you for noticing! I have already been thinking about enlarging the intake a little bit. The next version might get that.
Wow. Really nice improvements. How did you solved the 3d printed boat hull to not get injured by the water? Did you apply something outside for better water resistance?
Thanks! So far it is just PLA and I did not do any sanding or coating. It leaks a little bit, I will probably apply a clear lacquer on the outside on the final version, and I might sand it as well.
Nice with more power!
How much will it ca. cost?
Do you know that jet?
Thanks! I am not sure about the price of the STLs yet, but it will most likely not go over 30$.
@stepan how do you make it watertight, I changed the seal twice and put silicone grease and water still flood it fast
Your leaks might not be coming from the shaft. With some filaments, the water can travel through the walls, therefore I recommend painting the hull if this is your case. Also, some people reported that the leaks are coming from where the watercooling channel is. Someone was able to fix this by drilling through the watercooling channel and inserting a brass tube, but that is a pretty heavy modification. Another source might be around the zip tie slots of the receiver and ESC mount. If you check these 3 areas specifically, then you migt be able to stop it.
@@mjetdevelopment but i can leave the boat on the water for 15min and no water comes in, not even a drop, but if i put the cover on and use it for real (3080 4s too, monster) then i get at least 1 soup spoon of water per 10sec. sill think its straight from the plastic ? yes its PLA, with 5-6 coats of paint, but no paint in the flip hole, the hull hole to flip, maybe only by there ? but still, i can leave it float freely for a long time and no water inside.. also i can see no water comes from any coolant tubes or o-rings cause i use at min or max power in my hand, in the water, to see if leaks, no leak at all.
maybe i should reprint with the bulge pump version ??
@@shoyur That is strange, unfortunately I do not know any easy solution for that, given that you have already painted the hull, and the water does not leak when you hold the boat stationary. I estimate the flip hole is not the issue, because when running forward, the water runs ouf of it.
Because the leaks only happen when the boat is running forward, I think the pump is the most likely source of leaks, because the pressure in the intake when it is running is higher than when stationary, which is why you dont get the leaks when just holding the boat. If you eventually decide to print the hull again, I have a mod for the rear hull (not in the folder, it was just for one person who asked) where the O-ring is replaced by a rotary shaft seal (sometimes called oil seal) which should seal better if this is the problem. So if you message me on CGTrader, I can send this file to you.
Maybe you could also just try to drill the place where the O-ring sits from the inside of the boat and put a rotary shaft seal there.
These are my best ideas but I dont know if they will help.
Try it on a lake or a beach please. Thanks for sharing.
I did it in my newer videos:)
Will you realise this? i love this setup!
Yes I will! I love it too :D
@@mjetdevelopment Awesome, i will definitly buy/download it!
Btw do you know about when it is ready for release?
@@pommesfritz603 As a complete guess, I would say 2 months. But I do not know how much time I will have and if the next version works perfectly or not.The lockdown does not make things easier either
@@mjetdevelopment okey, sounds good, cant wait to try it myself! I was tinging about buying just your jet files and try to 3d print a boat😅
I want a boat like this How do I get to play? How much does it cost from Thailand?
Hi, this boat is not sold physically. You can buy 3D printable computer files and 3D print your own. Check my video "M-Jet Sprint Release": th-cam.com/video/ft1p1KqpupI/w-d-xo.html
@@mjetdevelopment thank you 😬
When will this version of the file come out?!?!
The final version is out. The boat you can see in this particular video is older than what is on CGTrader. You might be asking because of the drybox - it looked like a good idea, but then I tested it properly and realized it was leaking through it anyway, so later I decided to remove the drybox and rework the main seal instead. This decreased the amount of leaks significantly so the drybox is no longer included, also saving some space in the boat. Does this answer your question?
do you sell these??
I sell 3D printable STL files for it. www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-sprint-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat-model