Words can't express the gratitude people like myself (I'm 84 just starting up withe the sax and clarinet) feel when we need to know something about re-padding, rebuilding or just fixing a mouthpiece plate. You go into such detail that virtually anyone can duplicate what you're showing. We bought a great 1950's uglier than ugly Brilhart #5 Ebolin on E-Bay for 99 cents.It was so badly chewed we had concerns about the bites going through to the Chamber. We were able to clean out the remainder of the plate and fill it with the nail powder compound you use in your video. Needless to say, you wouldn't recognize the mouthpiece. For a really badly beat up 65 year old mouthpiece it looks brand new. On top of that, what a player. It turns out to be my best Brilhart. What a sound. Thank you so very much for sharing. Grampa Joe Pero
Thanx for this amazing and very detailed explanation. One question though: I am currently working on my first bite plate repair (using the sassi liquid you advised), and after drying for around 16 hours now, I can't help but notice that my teeth (or nails) dig a mark in the new material, which is quite softer than expected. Does it require more time to get a better hardness ?
Sébastien Jacquet Not in my experience. Maybe your powder choice is significant. Some no name Asian powders and liquid set gummy for me. They are better with using Sassi but the powder might still be an issue. You can try some mild heat to set it faster.
If using 3M DP-810, it does set with a wet film on the surface. After a few hours you can wipe off the top film and there should be a hard layer underneath it you can shape.
I have been a painter for 55 years. Trust me, that's a danged filbert. I will go out on a limb and venture that it is a Loew -Cornell Golden Taklon filbert. www.loew-cornell.com/product-page-pages-43.php?cid=195&pid=614
Keith, use paper-based masking tape to control the spread of the wet acrylic paste. I've used correction tape (this one: www.beiz.de/zweckform-korrekturband-85-mm-x-15-m-weiss-1-rolle-3514.html) several times with no problems. You may need to be careful that it doesn't get too moist, in which case it may come unstuck.
Words can't express the gratitude people like myself (I'm 84 just starting up withe the sax and clarinet) feel when we need to know something about re-padding, rebuilding or just fixing a mouthpiece plate. You go into such detail that virtually anyone can duplicate what you're showing. We bought a great 1950's uglier than ugly Brilhart #5 Ebolin on E-Bay for 99 cents.It was so badly chewed we had concerns about the bites going through to the Chamber. We were able to clean out the remainder of the plate and fill it with the nail powder compound you use in your video. Needless to say, you wouldn't recognize the mouthpiece. For a really badly beat up 65 year old mouthpiece it looks brand new. On top of that, what a player. It turns out to be my best Brilhart. What a sound. Thank you so very much for sharing. Grampa Joe Pero
Great to see how you do it. Enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to post them for all of us to learn from and enjoy.
I love watching these video's and i enjoy seeing your work.
Thanks for posting this video. I am a repair tech with a client who asked if Icould do this for him. I believe I can now!
Interesting ! I had no idea how replacing a bite plate is done.
Thanks for showing us and explaining everything.
I really enjoy your work
Thanks for your videos..I admire your work
How much do you charge for this service and how do I find your contact info? Thanks.
Thanx for this amazing and very detailed explanation.
One question though: I am currently working on my first bite plate repair (using the sassi liquid you advised), and after drying for around 16 hours now, I can't help but notice that my teeth (or nails) dig a mark in the new material, which is quite softer than expected. Does it require more time to get a better hardness ?
Sébastien Jacquet Not in my experience. Maybe your powder choice is significant. Some no name Asian powders and liquid set gummy for me. They are better with using Sassi but the powder might still be an issue. You can try some mild heat to set it faster.
If using 3M DP-810, it does set with a wet film on the surface. After a few hours you can wipe off the top film and there should be a hard layer underneath it you can shape.
The brush shape is called filbert.
It was not called that on the brush packaging.
I have been a painter for 55 years. Trust me, that's a danged filbert.
I will go out on a limb and venture that it is a Loew -Cornell Golden Taklon filbert. www.loew-cornell.com/product-page-pages-43.php?cid=195&pid=614
Your knowledge is better than my memory. I checked my last order and you are correct on all counts.
Keith Bradbury It can happen.
Keith, use paper-based masking tape to control the spread of the wet acrylic paste. I've used correction tape (this one: www.beiz.de/zweckform-korrekturband-85-mm-x-15-m-weiss-1-rolle-3514.html) several times with no problems. You may need to be careful that it doesn't get too moist, in which case it may come unstuck.
Thank for the tip!