Thanks for mentioning that you can add a bit paint to the clear wax to make your own tinted wax. I’m thinking maybe I could do this with white wax as well, to make the waxed effect «beachy» but not as light as with white wax. Or maybe I’m on the wrong track here. I’ve painted my cupboard with a mix of 2 blue/green tones, and am happy with the color, but some places we’ve been unfortunate with some uneaven coating. I think using a colored wax might camouflage this issue.
If budgetary issues present. Regular furniture wax works a treat. Furniture wax can be tinted with the myriad of artists oils. Reduction (thinning) can be done two ways. Warming the wax and or adding few drops of paint thinner. Raw or stripped wood can also be waxed with furniture wax that has been tinted. One enhancement to waxes over raw wood is a drop or two of turpentine. This also works as does the paint thinner on beeswax finishes. Clear wax or more specifically, Microcrystalline wax can be purchsed by the pound. The wax is used by museums across the country. Any wax can also be bulked up with additions of the same fillers and fractions of paints and coatings including calcium carbonate and titanium Oxide all available by weight. A well known method of using unused shoe wax is still a viable "finish" Any of the waxes save the liquid and aerosols if a waxed look is to be a final finish over "chalk paint" especially if no prime coat has been applied and most especially if the prep is inadequate of not done at all. Chalk paint is at best even though charming due to it's non reflective look, it is a fragile finish for any substrate that will be subjected to wear, handling or misuse.
So after using the clear wax on a painted project I then used the dark wax. Do I need to seal that again with clear wax? Also, if after waxing with the dark wax I want it even darker. Can I re-apply the dark wax or will it just be a waste of time and wax, will the colour just be what it is?
2 ปีที่แล้ว
Hi Laura, no need to seal the dark wax again. also, the more dark wax you add, the darker it will get ;-)
I never knew that you dont need to add clear wax before dark wax. I could not understand why the effect was so dissapointing. I absolutely love the dark waxes, especially with Annie Sloan chalk paint (Versailes - it changes the colour to a deep antique olive colour)
2 ปีที่แล้ว
Hi Karen, you must use clear wax first, then dark wax ;-)
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Come back! I’ve just found your channel. Your videos are so good!
Thanks for mentioning that you can add a bit paint to the clear wax to make your own tinted wax. I’m thinking maybe I could do this with white wax as well, to make the waxed effect «beachy» but not as light as with white wax. Or maybe I’m on the wrong track here. I’ve painted my cupboard with a mix of 2 blue/green tones, and am happy with the color, but some places we’ve been unfortunate with some uneaven coating. I think using a colored wax might camouflage this issue.
If budgetary issues present. Regular furniture wax works a treat. Furniture wax can be tinted with the myriad of artists oils. Reduction (thinning) can be done two ways. Warming the wax and or adding few drops of paint thinner. Raw or stripped wood can also be waxed with furniture wax that has been tinted. One enhancement to waxes over raw wood is a drop or two of turpentine. This also works as does the paint thinner on beeswax finishes. Clear wax or more specifically, Microcrystalline wax can be purchsed by the pound. The wax is used by museums across the country. Any wax can also be bulked up with additions of the same fillers and fractions of paints and coatings including calcium carbonate and titanium Oxide all available by weight. A well known method of using unused shoe wax is still a viable "finish" Any of the waxes save the liquid and aerosols if a waxed look is to be a final finish over "chalk paint" especially if no prime coat has been applied and most especially if the prep is inadequate of not done at all. Chalk paint is at best even though charming due to it's non reflective look, it is a fragile finish for any substrate that will be subjected to wear, handling or misuse.
What if you forgot the cleat wax before the black
If you are painting your piece with black chalk paint do you still need to use clear wax first or can you just put black wax on?
Does the wax have any UV properties - to prevent bleaching?
So after using the clear wax on a painted project I then used the dark wax. Do I need to seal that again with clear wax? Also, if after waxing with the dark wax I want it even darker. Can I re-apply the dark wax or will it just be a waste of time and wax, will the colour just be what it is?
Hi Laura, no need to seal the dark wax again. also, the more dark wax you add, the darker it will get ;-)
🌞🌞🌞
I never knew that you dont need to add clear wax before dark wax. I could not understand why the effect was so dissapointing. I absolutely love the dark waxes, especially with Annie Sloan chalk paint (Versailes - it changes the colour to a deep antique olive colour)
Hi Karen, you must use clear wax first, then dark wax ;-)
Not true! Optional
Hate when questions don't get answered. Why bother commenting or asking a question, when the poster never comes back to answer or help.