Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!
Holy shit after watching this I expected you to have like 20k subs, I don’t even have a 110 I just watched this for fun and this is more entertaining than those bigger creators. Keep posting man🤙
Sorry for the "double tap" comment, it didn't seem like it was going to submit. Anyway, forgot to mention, as nice as the Mitas 90/100-12 tire is, that bad boy is expensive! At almost half the price you can run the Shinko Mobber 504 - 120/70-12 and the 505 - 130/70-12 scooter tire. The 505, IMO, has a better tread pattern because it is made for the rear of the scooter. You can run a 504 on the rear of your 110 but I feel it needs Knobby Knife work for dirt riding to open up the knob spacing.
Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!
Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!
Holy shit after watching this I expected you to have like 20k subs, I don’t even have a 110 I just watched this for fun and this is more entertaining than those bigger creators. Keep posting man🤙
Thanks man I saw you followed my TikTok to
Cool video dude. Loved your energy. Keep it up🤙🤙 hope my kids grow up to be like you, in the shed, figuring it all out. Thanks for sharing
Great video dude
Take choke butterfly outta carb will allow a smooth airflow which increases throttle response
Sorry for the "double tap" comment, it didn't seem like it was going to submit. Anyway, forgot to mention, as nice as the Mitas 90/100-12 tire is, that bad boy is expensive! At almost half the price you can run the Shinko Mobber 504 - 120/70-12 and the 505 - 130/70-12 scooter tire. The 505, IMO, has a better tread pattern because it is made for the rear of the scooter. You can run a 504 on the rear of your 110 but I feel it needs Knobby Knife work for dirt riding to open up the knob spacing.
What jets are running on your Klx with the exhaust and intake mod?
It really depends on what elevation you so I would go 1 or 2 sizes bigger from what you are supposed to have
Hey doesn’t it need the back pressure from the exhaust?
Yea I thought of that but it dose have another little screen where the muffler and the pipe meet
The tube stays there the jet is the little screw in the bottom the one piece jets are pilot jets.
I’ll have to look
Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!
I didn’t know you could switch so many parts from the 140 the the 110 thanks for letting me know