ADJUSTABLE radius sanding block ~ GENIUS! (StewMac hasn't figured that out yet!) Fret tang filer ~ BRILLIANT! The genius is in their simplicity and effectiveness. You are a great problem solver and such a very good teacher. Thank you for sharing !
My observation with your fret board level is to make absolutely sure that the screws are the exact same length. The manufacture process might be a bit loose with the tolerances depending on the screw and manufacturer. The tiny difference may be hard to see but easily felt. Check the screw lengths with a good set of calipers and polish the ends down until they perfectly match each other in length. Great idea! Thank you!
Radius block is done. Will try it out when I return from holiday: I am building a "use what you got" 4 string baritone guitar. Not set up to do "as I build" videos, but maybe I will publish a video of the completed project. Cheers and happy holidays!
I was surprised that you did not make the top thirty. I thought, if nothing else, that Ben would love how many tools you invented to make your guitars with. I did enjoy your build, and good luck with the auctions.
Excellent Dave, some great ideas and you may have solved an issue for myself where I create short and shorter scale necks most of the time on my guitar builds.. I have one of the standard notched fret straightedges but as you pointed out these will not fit in between the frets on a shorter scale neck or a longer scale neck without purchasing different scale lengths. Thank you for sharing your ideas and problem solving.
All good ideas Dave. My first notched straight edge I made from 1/8” Masonite 2” high and straightened on the jointer. Made my own radius block as well it’s adjustable and to long to go into here.
Did you measure the bolts with a micrometer first? Fettle them to the exact same length? I think your solution is genius. But can be improved. Did you size the wood to machinist standards? All metal would be less likely to swell and move unpredictably. The base idea is absolute genius though. I’m genuinely impressed with your ideas. Thank you!
Yes now realise that the bolts need to be measured accurately if I want to use the technique of flipping the leveller over. Unfortunately I don’t have a micrometer and my digital calipers are not accurate to the precision needed. However, now I set the level of the bolt ends using a machined straight edge then place those on the neck to check for back bow after fretting and it works really well. Because I’m setting the straightness and testing the neck directly I don’t believe the hardwood bar moves in between. Thank you for watching. Cheers Dave
Loved your ideas and subscribed. Just a little suggestion, you could remove the tang on the frets, still using your jig, but with a dremel tool with a suitable cutter. I haven't tried this but think it might be easier than filing.
ADJUSTABLE radius sanding block ~ GENIUS! (StewMac hasn't figured that out yet!) Fret tang filer ~ BRILLIANT! The genius is in their simplicity and effectiveness. You are a great problem solver and such a very good teacher. Thank you for sharing !
Thank you!
My observation with your fret board level is to make absolutely sure that the screws are the exact same length. The manufacture process might be a bit loose with the tolerances depending on the screw and manufacturer. The tiny difference may be hard to see but easily felt. Check the screw lengths with a good set of calipers and polish the ends down until they perfectly match each other in length. Great idea! Thank you!
Yes you are absolutely right, unfortunately my digital calipers are probably not accurate enough. Cheers Dave
The radius blocks are brilliant, thank you.
Thank you! Cheers Dave
The fretboard flatness tool is inspired!! Excellent idea.
Cheers Dave
Great Idea. Its like checking a bubble level or finding a center with a marking gauge.
Thank you! Cheers Dave
I loved the radius block, great idea, thanks
Cheers!
Some great ideas! Thanks for sharing! I will definitely be giving it a go with the radius blocks and leveling fixture.
Cheers!
Well even if it’s not a 100% perfect method, it’s a whole lot better than sitting there and just praying it’s flat. Great idea
Yep, I agree, it’s close enough. Cheers Dave
I'd already forgotten your radiusing block idea! Thanks for the reminder...
Your radius beam is genius!
Not sure about genius but it does work well. Cheers Dave
DIY radius block is brilliant! I know what I am making tomorrow.
Cheers.
Easy to make and really useful. Cheers Dave
Radius block is done. Will try it out when I return from holiday: I am building a "use what you got" 4 string baritone guitar. Not set up to do "as I build" videos, but maybe I will publish a video of the completed project.
Cheers and happy holidays!
Thanks for sharing these ideas! Very helpful
Thank you! Cheers Dave
Well presented and very informative. Thank you .
Thank you, cheers Dave
I really love that radius sanding block, brilliant idea!
Cheers Dave
I was surprised that you did not make the top thirty. I thought, if nothing else, that Ben would love how many tools you invented to make your guitars with. I did enjoy your build, and good luck with the auctions.
Thank you! Cheers Dave
great idea ! thx
Thank you!
Excellent Dave, some great ideas and you may have solved an issue for myself where I create short and shorter scale necks most of the time on my guitar builds.. I have one of the standard notched fret straightedges but as you pointed out these will not fit in between the frets on a shorter scale neck or a longer scale neck without purchasing different scale lengths. Thank you for sharing your ideas and problem solving.
Great! Cheers Dave
brilliant!
Cheers Dave
All good ideas Dave. My first notched straight edge I made from 1/8” Masonite 2” high and straightened on the jointer. Made my own radius block as well it’s adjustable and to long to go into here.
Sounds good, do you have a video of the radius block. Cheers Dave
@@DaveDickens, no that was 20 plus years ago.
Did you measure the bolts with a micrometer first? Fettle them to the exact same length? I think your solution is genius. But can be improved. Did you size the wood to machinist standards? All metal would be less likely to swell and move unpredictably. The base idea is absolute genius though. I’m genuinely impressed with your ideas. Thank you!
Yes now realise that the bolts need to be measured accurately if I want to use the technique of flipping the leveller over. Unfortunately I don’t have a micrometer and my digital calipers are not accurate to the precision needed. However, now I set the level of the bolt ends using a machined straight edge then place those on the neck to check for back bow after fretting and it works really well. Because I’m setting the straightness and testing the neck directly I don’t believe the hardwood bar moves in between. Thank you for watching. Cheers Dave
thanks for sharing your tips dave...love your videos and their presentation style.
Thank you! Cheers Dave
Loved your ideas and subscribed. Just a little suggestion, you could remove the tang on the frets, still using your jig, but with a dremel tool with a suitable cutter. I haven't tried this but think it might be easier than filing.
It really doesn't take long with the file and to be honest I'm not very good with the dremel. Cheers Dave
Crimson guitars is less then adequate
Cheers!