We use that here in Japan. We use it mostly to fill the gas heaters for classrooms. They work wonderfully. If you spend a bit more money they have versions where there is a sensor on the hose to tell you whatever you're filling is full and it will stop the pump.
Just a suggestion, when I was growing up on the farm, we used a funnel to keep from spilling gas all over the tractor. When your fancy pump dies, try a $5. funnel
I use a 30 gallon plastic barrel with a $12 Harbor Freight hand crank transfer pump to fill my loader. I place the barrel in the back of my truck or trailer and take it to get filled. I have a hose long enough to reach the loader. When the barrel is on the ground I use a two wheeled dolly to move it around.
Jesse, Not sure what your fear of pumping gas is - when you consider your car and truck have electric pumps IN THE TANK that you drive everyday. If it helps make put you at ease, gasoline as a liquid - doesn't burn. it's the vapor that's dangerous. IT has to do with the amount of air required and such. Anyway, those pumps are cool, I've seen them used for Kerosene heaters all the time, but not as much for gas or diesel. My only caution would be pumping diesel - then pumping gas - and having a little residual mixing of the two. Enjoy your videos and waiting for the Timber frame finale!
I have a siphon but it's not electric it has a little ball on top that you squeeze and the fuel flows I use it I fill up I Kerosene heaters. Good job guys, you put a smile on my face this morning.
Price is right and the quality appears quite high; but I would keep a spare around for when the plastic discharge hose breaks or something else breaks. Made my own fuel transfer pump setup back in the late 70's using a non-name automotive12v electric fuel pump that I removed from a customers car when I fixed his car "right" by replacing the failed mechanical pump. That electric pump produced too much pressure (10 to 12 psi, where the car was spec'd for 3.5 psi) and was flooding the carburetor at low engine speeds. Tossed it into my "usable junk box" in case I might have a need for it in the future. Five or 6 years later I did have the need to remove the fuel from a full fuel tank where one of the straps holding the tank had broken due to rust. (Yeah, a rust-belt state that uses way too much road salt.) The trick to removing the full tank is to remove the fuel from the tank before going to remove the tank from the car; the hand primer pumps of the day usually worked once and died after sitting around for a few months after being used the first time. So I grabbed that electric pump and quickly extended the wires to go to that car's battery; and if a different battery is used, that battery needs to be grounded to the car to reduce the chance of a spark from static electricity especially in the winter (or any low humidity condition). Then I stuffed a 1/4" rubber fuel hose down the filler pipe and removed as much fuel as I could into 2 - 5 Gal "gerry cans". Did that outdoors to allow the fumes to disperse, before pushing the car inside to the lift to affect a proper repair. A few days later I mounted that pump on a scrap of plywood, used nails to wrap the cord around, and added a clear fuel filter to the inlet hose - for "future use". That was version 1 of my fuel "transfer rig". Version 2 involved a 4 point grounding system and on/off switch; pump, the car's frame or battery ground, the metal "gerry can" (with connections for 2 different cans) , and for an external 12 volt battery (after needing to use it in a vehicle was was being torn-down for restoration where all the electric's had already been removed). The switch was to "contain" the spark when connecting the clamps to the battery. New piece of plywood, painted this time and a dedicated HD card-board box; still "back-alley" or "ghetto-style" but it worked when needed. Version 3 was created when the old "junk" pump died due to the filter getting filled and pump kept trying to draw fuel thru the plugged filter and the impeller melted. You DON"T EVER want to run a fuel pump dry or you can kiss it off. The impeller needs fuel to be flowing to "lubricate" it. Hell, that pump lasted about 15 years anyways; being used at least 4 or 5 times a year around my shop. The new version involved switching to a Holley Hi-Performance 11 GPH pump, an Oberg NASCAR type flat-screen fuel filter with a "bypass switch" for an indicator light to show when the filter started to bypass the filter screen that ran into a "disposable, clear filter" that I would replace when the Oberg hit overflow. And I mounted the pump and filters to the lid of an old Craftsman hand-carry metal tool box which got a new hammered-metal gray coat of paint, to hold the various pieces of fuel hoses we used with it and to hold wiring and ground wires (5 point grounding using banana plugs and sockets; for grounding 3 fuel cans. Then came version 4 - in like 1995 or 96. New big-box purchased plastic / composite tool box to "class it up a bit" and to get all the parts inside the box. With v3 the pump and big-@ss filters setup on the outside of the lid, it was too heavy and the lid needed to be propped up; I got tired of that about v.3 real fast. (And the "aroma" was too strong for weeks after being used with v3.) Cord is wrapped inside the lid, pump and Oberg filter in the tool-box , along with all the hose pieces, on/off switch, "bypass light"& solid-state 12v "buzzer module" [I added] from Radio Shack, and banana-plug "ground" sockets mounted in a hobby-box screwed to the upper part of the tool-box below the lid making it self contained inside the tool-box, and the "aroma" of gasoline stays inside the box when it's in the storage cabinet in the garage with the other tool storage boxes I have - hammer drill, circular saw, etc. I'm retired now and still use v4 at least twice a year; end of grass cutting season and end of snow-blower season to "suck" the fuel out of their tanks and right into my car - done outdoors, of course. Using a gel-battery now for power, got a few that I pulled from a defunct computer UPS's that quit working. I use those batteries for providing 12v power to other devices, too; keeps work lights that came with rechargeable batteries going long after the old NiCad batteries "gave up the ghost". With the plugin rechargeable battery packs, I have few Ryobi's that I "re-populated" with new battery cells; $20 worth of better quality cells vs $50 for a new battery pack. A few hours of my time is worth the savings and I get longer lasting cells in the process. No need for the "battery clamps" for fuel transfer - added a two pin connector so I can just plug it in and let the internals provide a good solid ground connections for the battery and what I am re-fueling. (Hey, I learned safe fuel handling transfer procedures as an aviation technician in the Navy and had training in fighting AvGas and JP4 fuel fires. Naval Air Station fuel tanker truck AND the aircraft landing gear (on both port and starboard main gear) are connected together AND each to the grounding rods that are set in the center of each concrete refueling / parking pads, like 20 feet between grounding rods that go like 25 feet into the earth. Those that got caught not following the rules could end up standing a Captains Mast or in a DRB hearing. I still pop the hood of my car to get a good ground to the car. And after seeing this video I am going to start using v4 to fill the lawn mower and snow blower, too. No more cursing at the new "EPA approved" fuel can spouts or having to "fix them" to be used for their intended purpose and getting covered with the inevitable spilled fuel and then needing to leave my coat and gloves in the garage to air out for a few days during the winter.
Looks like that pump is similar to a windscreen washer pump, but the actual pump is at the bottom of the riser tube, with the motor at the top, so priming happens when you put it in the fuel, if you're worried about fuel remaining in the pump, give it a quick run when the pump is out of the fuel. I don't think there is a risk of explosion, the motor is in a sealed container, that's the only place where there would be sparks, even so it's much safer than fuel on a hot engine. You could get more fuel resistant hose, you would need a short length of hard pipe to make the join
A small amount of diesel in petrol/gas won't be a problem, it might even act as an upper cylinder lubricant. Likewise, a very small amount of petrol/gas in diesel won't hurt.
It's also gravity assist fed like a siphon. Once it's started it would go on without much help. You could probably turn it off once it started. If you'd have the container below the tank it would probably be slower.
We all know that the timber frame is up because there are no beams laying around. Those little pumps I have used for years to empty my deep fryer. The kind I have has a removal hose. Great video again.
You guys are so much fun to watch first thing in the morning! Y'all crack me up with your sense of humor. "If it catches fire...like...run really fast." LOL> Too funny. And...I do miss Mal. We have always had cats and dogs. My best buddy ever was a cat I had named Sox. He was a tabby mixed with bobcat. Very big, smart, and extremely fast. And very loving too. He would lay in the living room floor and see a fly mosying around and leap from a laying position and catch that sucker in mid air then let it go and do it again and again until the fly was dead. LOL. We had him and his little brother Rascal. Rascal was the best mouser I have ever seen. Rascal could be laying on the couch asleep and hear a mouse in the next room, disappear and a few minutes later come back with a dead mouse and drop it on the floor in front of you. The he would sit and meow at you until you petted him and told him he was a good boy. He was more like a dog than a cat. We had them for over 14 years before they passed. Bugaboo reminds me of those two brothers we had. They were so adorable and fun. Ya gotta love 'em.
Get a 4 inch PVC pipe to store it in. Glue a cap on one side and just place the other side on with no glue as a cap. On the side write FUEL PUMP. with a sharpie. Done!
What I use for this type of fuel transfer is a "Jiggler Siphon Pump." Very inexpensive, simple to use, requires no batteries, metal parts are brass (no sparking, for when transferring gasoline ) and they work about as fast as the pump your friend Roman recommended. I've used them for years! Simply go to eBay and search for "Jiggler Siphon Pump." The way it works is you insert the working, brass end, well into your 5 gallon tank of fuel (any liquid) that you want to transfer. Put the other end into you vehicle, or where ever your transferring it to. Make sure your 5 gallon tank with the fuel to be transferred is higher than the tank you're transferring to. Then you just jiggle the brass siphon working end until the gas starts to flow. Once the flow of fuel starts you stop jiggling and wait for the amount of fuel you want transferred is complete. Having done this many times I would guess it works about as fast as your "Roman" pump but without the worry of electricity, sparks, explosion, etc. Most are sold with a 6ft. transfer tube but if you need something longer just pull off the 6ft tube & go to Home Depo and buy any length you might need. I think it's about a half inch tube but just take the original 6ft tube with you so you get the right size tube. Really like your videos & am looking forward to seeing your Timber Frame go up!
We use gas cans for hurricane prep and what does not go into the generator we put in the car and truck. Always a mess, as far as I can tell man can not make a gas can and spout that does not leak. I will definitely be getting one of these, thanks for the info!
I have used these wand pumps for years but not for gas. I use them to drain all the water out of a toilet when one needs removed or replaced. No more waddle walk hoping it don't slosh and spill
My cousin has a similar pump and we have used it on off road motorcycle trips. Works great. Although his pump has an auto shut off at the hose end that prevents it from over filling.
Where I grew up, we had a gas tank on a low tower, about 5 feet off the ground. It held thousands of gallons and a tanker truck came by now and then to fill it. We gassed our tractors, etc. from that central tank. No trips to town for gas, at least.
II have gone thru 3 in the last 10 years at my cabin in Ky. They don't break but the motors do wear out, and I droped one. The motor is under the the battery but above the hose, a shaft runs to the bottom and has a an impeller at the inlet. I don't know how bad wasp and dirtdobbers are in your area but you should keep the ends covered just in case, the gas will evaporate and they build fast.I have been watching for about 6 months, LOVE YOUR VIDs. Keep up the GREAT WORK!!!
I think most of that transfer is by siphon. That is likely why moves the 5 gal faster than expected. I used a siphon on my boat for fuel transfer with the same effect. You don't have to have the can much higher for it to work and the diameter of the tubing is your speed limit.
I bought the one Wranglerstar showed and it is the greatest thing I've ever purchased. Being in a wheelchair it's made filling my quad and lawnmower soooo easy.
First video I rolled my eyes. I have been using these battery pumps for 15 years. I'm on my 3rd pump. The switch broke on the first pump and the bottom came off the second pump. At $20 why make a big deal out of using a cheap pump that does the job for you.? If you are hard up for money to buy a replacement pump, skip eating out for one dinner. LOL
I have a siphon tube with a hand pump that gets the siphon started, It's used for emptying the fish tank for cleaning. I think that would work almost as well as this pump but without the electricity.
the plastic bit is from a hand pump kerosene pump, seen them all the time in Japan when I was stationed there. They dont have natural gas lines ran underground so they use Kerosene and small Propane tanks. The battery powered part is just a light duty fuel pump for a car. You could make something like this with an external fuel pump for a car and put some real long wires from the + and - of the pump and on other end of wires put clamps like would be on a car battery charger then just clamp to the tractor battery or any other 12v source, and somewhere on the + wire put a switch.. But I would not run THAT pump or any other pump dry for very long, it will burn the pump up. It uses whatever your pumping to keep it cool.
Y’all must not watch Wranglerstar. He showed one of these that’s higher quality a while back. It can screw down in place of the gas can nozzle. Those little pumps sure are a life saver.
For a never fail siphon technique, get two fuel lines that will fit in your fuel can at the same time. One hose needs to be long enough to function as a siphon. The other hose only needs to be long enough to go into the gas can an inch or two (above the fuel level). Set both hoses in place, wad a rag around the hoses where they enter your 5 gallon fuel can and hold it tight with one hand. The idea is to stop air pressure from escaping as you blow through the short hose. The air pressure you create inside the fuel can will force fuel through the siphon hose. Once the siphon action begins, stop blowing and just watch the magic. Batteries not included.
Should toss a auxiliary tank in your truck for the diesel anyway,could always use it in the truck if needed,you can find them for good deals on Craigslist quit often,they even have a regular gas station style pump!
Been using one of these for years for kerosene, emptying stale gas, etc. etc. etc. Always worked great. Doubt it's exactly the same brand but I've had a couple over the years and all have functioned well.
I use a shaker siphon. No batteries.....only issue is you have to have he tank higher cause it's a siphon. With the the front end loader it would work. But thing would be great for the small stuff and cars.
Jesse once the pump starts the fuel running, try turning the pump off, I think siphon action will make it fill and it'll save on your battery. That should when ever your able to put the fuel can above the spout.
It depends on if it's a centrifugal pump (like a sump pump), for instance. In that instance of pump type, if you don't put a check valve on the output line the fluid that is still in the line, when the pump shuts off, will come right back into the sump bowl. And I suspect (from the sound of it running, and it would be a good use of that sort of design), the pump that Jesse has is that type...
I've used these before, some better than other but great product, Mine was used for Kerosene Heaters and one for Lawnmower. by the way, the hole on the back is to hold the end of the hose tip , and though mine was a bit different it still going strong after 4 years, I would say that's dependent on use level. keep up the great videos
Every farmer I know has a 12 volt pump on the tank behind the cab in the bed of their truck. They use them all the time and I don't know of any of them catching fire. If I were you I would get one of those and get a 50 gallon barrel and put it in the truck and tie it off or in a trailer. You can put a long hose on these things, farmers fuel up big tractors, combines and everything else when they are out in the field.
Jesse, that writing on the package is Japanese not Chinese. These are commonly used in Japanese households to fill the kerosene heaters. They are good quality and safe to use.
Oh! I see the problem, you’re using those new safety spouts with the spring activated lock - those are horrendous. I bailed on those and switched back to the old school yellow nozzle - haven’t spilled a drop since.
Electric fuel pumps in gasoline tanks cannot burn because there is no oxygen. Fuel vapor, no matter how little the amount of liquid present, displaces all other gasses and quickly. I have seen 12 volt wiring inside a 50 gallon gasoline tank melt through it's insulation and eventually disintegrate after the two leads got crossed at the pump. No fire. I have seen it more than once.
Jessie’s enthusiasm is just contagious. It was so cute. “Do you think we can do the generator” lol. Also think of all the money you will save with out spilling all that fuel.
I can only recommend A-TRFA01-001 by TeraPump. It is higher quality, has an auto-stop function preventing overspill. Runs on 4x AA batteries and displaces 3 gallons per minute.
A solution that might work for you would be an elevated fuel tank. You could have bulk fuel delivered, and with an elevated tank gravity makes a pump unnecessary. 300 gallon tanks are fairly inexpensive, and you can get divided tanks that can hold both diesel and gasoline. An added benefit (in our area) is being able to get marked fuel which does not have road taxes on it, the fuel being intended for farm use, I.e. for off road vehicles.
Maybe this has already been mentioned, Jesse, but... During the winter (generator season), I keep both fuel tanks in my pick-up full, which equates to just under 50 gallons, and pump it into the generator as needed. It has the same exact engine as your sawmill, Kohler CommandPro 25, which is mighty thirsty. Your new truck is diesel, not sure if she has dual tanks, but it seems to me you already have a transfer tank, for the backhoe, a really big transfer tank with a gas (throttle) pedal. Maybe extend the inlet and outlet of your new battery operated transfer pump, and voila ! Maybe want to add a little clip-on ground strap, but, whatever works for your safety comfort level. Keep warm, You Two ! =)~
Congratulations on the Timber Frame and it's great to see survival by all. I can't wait to see the results. A young couple who both earn respect and admiration of this senior.
You might want to wrap some elec. or duct tape around the base of the hose as a strain relief to keep it from cracking. I would also try to warm it up a little before using it since that hose looks like it could get very stiff and crack from the cold.
You two are amazing. Love the new fueling pump. ! My wifey here says she would like to have one for the lawn mowers. 100% agree. Guess what? Yes,! We are eager to see the framing completion. No complaints though. We are practicing patience with Alyssa cause we know that quality video work is on the way. Two days you say? ok then!
Those type of pumps have been around for years there is also gravity feed non-battery operated ones I thought just about everybody that used fuel like that would know about them.
I glued my bottom cap on. The top cap proved to be a bit of a pain to remove (especially with gloves, cold hands, etc) so I drilled a hole in the top of the cap and inserted a simple piece of nylon webbing (tag ends of a piece about 16" long) through and tied the tag ends together to form a "jam knot" on the underside of the cap. This leaves a large loop coming up out of the cap so you can just grab the loop and pull up to remove the cap. I applied some silicone around the underside and top of the hole. I don't have much trouble with my webbing wanting to slide down into the cap as I made the hole fairly small to make the webbing fit tightly. If you had a problem with that, you could just insert a small nail or cotter pin through the webbing on top of the cap to prevent it from sliding down. I wasn't too worried about mine leaking (and it hasn't) because I just leave it upright in the corner or hang it from a hook on the pegboard in my storage area or shop.
I purchased one similar (tractor supply) and really like it, mine though has a round rocker switch which I think is better, much quicker to shut off when you've discovered you've gone to far and close to spill-over, which is easy to do with small gas tanks. There's also a manual squeeze bulb type in the same similar configuration which also works well.
I just do not understand. What is so hard about finding two clean barrels and going to Home Depot or an of many numerous stores and getting a couple of barrel pumps and fill one up with gas and the other with diesel. Good fuel hand crank barrel pumps that really move some fuel can be had for under $60 each and a couple of good clean barrels for fuel can be had from free to $35 each. Drive the backhoe up to the barrel, fuel it up.
If you want an improved version look for TERAPUMP TRFA01 the pickup doesn't need to be held and the pump rate is higher 3gpm Also has overflow protection.
I bought a VERY similar model at Northern Tool because it specifically said it was safe for Gasoline! I was VERY nervous about it, but there are several key factors. 1 the pump motor is submerged in the gasoline. just like the fuel pump in your car. Fuel, needs 2 things to burn. 1 fuel obviously, 2- air and there is an exact ratio of fuel to air needed before ignition can occur. By putting the pump motor fully submerged, you eliminate the air. The FUMES that happen from the fuel being transferred are FAR more volatile! By using a low voltage motor and by enclosing the switch for the pump, sparks from the switch and fumes are less likely to happen and be exposed to one another. But....Gasoline is still something to be taken seriously. Mine has broken several times. they are VERY cheaply made. the hose breaks, they are not flexible at all (I use mine for draining oddly shaped motorcycle gas tanks) and you cannot fully empty some tanks. if you get below 1/4-1/2" if gas under the pump motor, it loses suction. I have been trying to find a better option under $100-150 for gasoline that is electrically powered, but have not found one yet.
don't put it near the fire but don't leave it out in the cold either. Keep it out of the sun when not in use, that will make it last longer. Sun degrades plastic.
There are 12 volt motors with filters built-in and you use battery clips on your car battery or a portable battery cart. I'm not sure the GPM but it's really nice. A lot of truckers use them The Pump Fuel from the reefer
And don't worry about using two pumps for diesel or gas. A few drops of gas in your diesel will just act like a fuel line cleaner and clean the injectors. In the winter trucker put in a half pint of gasoline in a hundred gallons of diesel to make the diesel burn a little hotter. And a couple ounces of diesel in 10 or 20 gallons of gasoline provides upper cylinder lubrication and helps clean the varnish out of the lines carburetor or fuel injectors. Many fuel additives from the auto parts store are just fuel oil based
We used those pumps in the steel mill I worked at for our kerosene heaters. They worked great as long as you don't drop them. They never burned up but can't take an impact.
We run a Honda generator at our hunting shack. We purchased an attachable fuel tank that holds 5 gallons of gas so we only have to fill a few times. We run the AC unit at times all night and never run out of gas. Think about looking into one, it makes of grid situations much nicer. It buys you a ton of time between fills and they are not very expensive. Love your videos! Keep up the great work!
Good idea in some situations for sure.. Probably better once the house is up to look at long term solutions instead of polishing a turd again. Something we've grown quite unfond of over time. Our Honda was meant to last a couple years and is by no means proper for the type of power we'll want in the house.
Wow totally forgot about them!...I remember that type of fuel transfer pumps from like 25+ years ago, a friend had Go-karts but the only fuel cans then were 20 liter/5 gal military type or round ones and a funnel and plenty of spillage until he bought a battery powered transfer pump
For those folks concerned about fuel and pumps, aircraft have electric pumps mounted in the bottom of the tanks. So when you are flying on those commercial jets, enjoy your flight.
If you drive a car or truck built after 1990 or so, you probably have an electric pump at the bottom of your gas tank. And gas is far more flammable than jet fuel (JP4, JP5).
I don't know the situation in the US but in the Netherlands, red diesel is banned for use in transport trucks/cars etc and only allowed in other (farm) engines. The red dye is used to check if people use the red diesel in normal cars or trucks. It can be detected even after you have fuelled a car 6 to 10 times after one time fueling with red diesel. So be carefull with cross use of the same pump to prevent contaminating your regular truck with red diesel.
Here in the US, red diesel is for off road use only as well. If you are caught using it in a vehicle that is registered for use on road, then you are in big trouble. Also here, the off road diesel is cheaper, and poorer quality because it goes through less of a refining process. I wouldn't put that in my truck even if it was legal.
I don't know where these urban myths come from. I own a farm and buy off road diesel in bulk. I sign a piece of paper it comes undyed, I don't they deliver the fuel and dye it right there in my tank. Save $.02 per gallon undyed (cost of dyeing) There is no difference in the fuel, no difference in the processing. Do you really think the refiner is going to make a different fuel and engine manufacturers are going to make different models of the same engine for fuel/use combinations? Cummins guy "Oh, this QSM is going on a farm tractor put the crappy fuel package on it".
I have worked as a lab technician at an Esso (exxon) reffinery and in the Netherlands we use the same quality standards for red or clear diesel, the only difference is that the dye is added at the reffinery. It is a recuirement from our goverment to give them a possibillity (and they do use it) to see if people use the cheaper (because of lower taxes) red diesel. The red dye is used, because it can be detected even after diluting it close to a thousand times with the clean, undyed diesel. I saw Jesse use red diesel so I assumed that was used for simular reasons, but I did mention that I did not know if its use in the US, or even the different states, is identical. At the moment the difference in price between red and clear diesel is about 20% with a price of clear diesel of about 5 dollar/gallon (because of taxes). So the government really does want to prevent fraude by means of unintended use of red diesel.
I've see similar pumps operated by hand - mostly to refill bigger generators. Those are spill proof as well and work every time you want to use them. Batteries are bad - but you could try rechargeable ones.
You guys could invest into purchasing a fuel storage tank which you can gas up your vehicles and equipment from. Seen other homesteading and off the grid channels on TH-cam who have them or an even cheaper option is a fuel tank pump that goes into the back of your pickup truck which you fill up at the gas station and then refuel your equipment from the bed of your pickup.
No fuels conduct electricity, so don't worry about electricity in fuel. A battery isn't going to make enough of a spark to ignite fuels in case of a short. Don't worry about fire hazards due to the pump. FYI your truck probably has an electric fuel pump within the gas tank itself.
Just an idea for your generator and power. I've been off grid 9 years, what I did for a start was buy 4 of walmart biggest rv batteries, around 75 each, and a 800 watt inverter. I only used the generator for high demands like power tools, laundry, and mainly charging batteries. At night I would only put a little gas in the generator and plug battery chargers into it, that way when the generator died I still had power for the night. I remember counting how many seconds of fuel to pour so I knew when it would shut off. 800 watts does not sound like much, but it lit a 4 bedroom house, small led lcd tv and laptop plus charged our phones all night. I gradually upgraded to more batteries, bigger invertors, and solar panels off craigslist. Now we have a huge upright fridge, and can do laundry without running a generator on a system that cost me 3000. I did a lot of barging hunting to build it, but we have normal power now without being on the grid or running a generator daily. Living off gtid turned from a hobby to a lifestyle that I don't ever want to give up.
If you're suprised by putting a electric motor next to petrol/diesel, then you should know that the auxilary fuel pump in your car sits inside the fuel tank. Petrol being the easier to ignite, it's not dangerous. It's the fumes that are highly flamable. About the thing being made in China, well the was majority of USA flags are made in China and all the uniforms your troops use are also made in China.
Cool deal I’m definitely getting one of these. If you use rechargeable lithium AA & AAA batteries get a some of the D and C battery adapters so you don’t have to pay the ridiculous prices fo the alkaline D and C batteries only to have them leak and destroy your pump or other electronics. We use AA lithium’s and D adaptors in our on demand propane water heater. It’s nice knowing it will not be ruined by the batteries leaking. Great channel, we’ve been watch since the beginning.
You don´t need much to pump fuel, if the gas can is higher than what you want to fill you need the pump just at the begining then gravity and pressure do the rest. If you get a hose on the spout and blow some air inside the can you can get it flowing just by increasing the pressure inside the can, no pump needed.
We use that here in Japan. We use it mostly to fill the gas heaters for classrooms. They work wonderfully. If you spend a bit more money they have versions where there is a sensor on the hose to tell you whatever you're filling is full and it will stop the pump.
Just a suggestion, when I was growing up on the farm, we used a funnel to keep from spilling gas all over the tractor. When your fancy pump dies, try a $5. funnel
I use a 30 gallon plastic barrel with a $12 Harbor Freight hand crank transfer pump to fill my loader. I place the barrel in the back of my truck or trailer and take it to get filled. I have a hose long enough to reach the loader. When the barrel is on the ground I use a two wheeled dolly to move it around.
You worry about Electricity and fuel mixing? Better never drive a car or truck again. The electric fuel pump is in the tank.
Jesse, Not sure what your fear of pumping gas is - when you consider your car and truck have electric pumps IN THE TANK that you drive everyday. If it helps make put you at ease, gasoline as a liquid - doesn't burn. it's the vapor that's dangerous. IT has to do with the amount of air required and such. Anyway, those pumps are cool, I've seen them used for Kerosene heaters all the time, but not as much for gas or diesel. My only caution would be pumping diesel - then pumping gas - and having a little residual mixing of the two. Enjoy your videos and waiting for the Timber frame finale!
I have a siphon but it's not electric it has a little ball on top that you squeeze and the fuel flows I use it I fill up I Kerosene heaters. Good job guys, you put a smile on my face this morning.
If talking became an Olympic sport, Jesse would be assured of a gold!
Price is right and the quality appears quite high; but I would keep a spare around for when the plastic discharge hose breaks or something else breaks.
Made my own fuel transfer pump setup back in the late 70's using a non-name automotive12v electric fuel pump that I removed from a customers car when I fixed his car "right" by replacing the failed mechanical pump. That electric pump produced too much pressure (10 to 12 psi, where the car was spec'd for 3.5 psi) and was flooding the carburetor at low engine speeds.
Tossed it into my "usable junk box" in case I might have a need for it in the future. Five or 6 years later I did have the need to remove the fuel from a full fuel tank where one of the straps holding the tank had broken due to rust. (Yeah, a rust-belt state that uses way too much road salt.) The trick to removing the full tank is to remove the fuel from the tank before going to remove the tank from the car; the hand primer pumps of the day usually worked once and died after sitting around for a few months after being used the first time. So I grabbed that electric pump and quickly extended the wires to go to that car's battery; and if a different battery is used, that battery needs to be grounded to the car to reduce the chance of a spark from static electricity especially in the winter (or any low humidity condition). Then I stuffed a 1/4" rubber fuel hose down the filler pipe and removed as much fuel as I could into 2 - 5 Gal "gerry cans". Did that outdoors to allow the fumes to disperse, before pushing the car inside to the lift to affect a proper repair.
A few days later I mounted that pump on a scrap of plywood, used nails to wrap the cord around, and added a clear fuel filter to the inlet hose - for "future use". That was version 1 of my fuel "transfer rig".
Version 2 involved a 4 point grounding system and on/off switch; pump, the car's frame or battery ground, the metal "gerry can" (with connections for 2 different cans) , and for an external 12 volt battery (after needing to use it in a vehicle was was being torn-down for restoration where all the electric's had already been removed). The switch was to "contain" the spark when connecting the clamps to the battery. New piece of plywood, painted this time and a dedicated HD card-board box; still "back-alley" or "ghetto-style" but it worked when needed.
Version 3 was created when the old "junk" pump died due to the filter getting filled and pump kept trying to draw fuel thru the plugged filter and the impeller melted. You DON"T EVER want to run a fuel pump dry or you can kiss it off. The impeller needs fuel to be flowing to "lubricate" it.
Hell, that pump lasted about 15 years anyways; being used at least 4 or 5 times a year around my shop. The new version involved switching to a Holley Hi-Performance 11 GPH pump, an Oberg NASCAR type flat-screen fuel filter with a "bypass switch" for an indicator light to show when the filter started to bypass the filter screen that ran into a "disposable, clear filter" that I would replace when the Oberg hit overflow. And I mounted the pump and filters to the lid of an old Craftsman hand-carry metal tool box which got a new hammered-metal gray coat of paint, to hold the various pieces of fuel hoses we used with it and to hold wiring and ground wires (5 point grounding using banana plugs and sockets; for grounding 3 fuel cans.
Then came version 4 - in like 1995 or 96. New big-box purchased plastic / composite tool box to "class it up a bit" and to get all the parts inside the box. With v3 the pump and big-@ss filters setup on the outside of the lid, it was too heavy and the lid needed to be propped up; I got tired of that about v.3 real fast. (And the "aroma" was too strong for weeks after being used with v3.)
Cord is wrapped inside the lid, pump and Oberg filter in the tool-box , along with all the hose pieces, on/off switch, "bypass light"& solid-state 12v "buzzer module" [I added] from Radio Shack, and banana-plug "ground" sockets mounted in a hobby-box screwed to the upper part of the tool-box below the lid making it self contained inside the tool-box, and the "aroma" of gasoline stays inside the box when it's in the storage cabinet in the garage with the other tool storage boxes I have - hammer drill, circular saw, etc.
I'm retired now and still use v4 at least twice a year; end of grass cutting season and end of snow-blower season to "suck" the fuel out of their tanks and right into my car - done outdoors, of course. Using a gel-battery now for power, got a few that I pulled from a defunct computer UPS's that quit working. I use those batteries for providing 12v power to other devices, too; keeps work lights that came with rechargeable batteries going long after the old NiCad batteries "gave up the ghost". With the plugin rechargeable battery packs, I have few Ryobi's that I "re-populated" with new battery cells; $20 worth of better quality cells vs $50 for a new battery pack. A few hours of my time is worth the savings and I get longer lasting cells in the process.
No need for the "battery clamps" for fuel transfer - added a two pin connector so I can just plug it in and let the internals provide a good solid ground connections for the battery and what I am re-fueling. (Hey, I learned safe fuel handling transfer procedures as an aviation technician in the Navy and had training in fighting AvGas and JP4 fuel fires. Naval Air Station fuel tanker truck AND the aircraft landing gear (on both port and starboard main gear) are connected together AND each to the grounding rods that are set in the center of each concrete refueling / parking pads, like 20 feet between grounding rods that go like 25 feet into the earth. Those that got caught not following the rules could end up standing a Captains Mast or in a DRB hearing.
I still pop the hood of my car to get a good ground to the car. And after seeing this video I am going to start using v4 to fill the lawn mower and snow blower, too. No more cursing at the new "EPA approved" fuel can spouts or having to "fix them" to be used for their intended purpose and getting covered with the inevitable spilled fuel and then needing to leave my coat and gloves in the garage to air out for a few days during the winter.
Damnit, hopefully we can get back to the real content... Part 2 of the framing square restore left a lot of us wanting for a part 3.
Looks like that pump is similar to a windscreen washer pump, but the actual pump is at the bottom of the riser tube, with the motor at the top, so priming happens when you put it in the fuel, if you're worried about fuel remaining in the pump, give it a quick run when the pump is out of the fuel.
I don't think there is a risk of explosion, the motor is in a sealed container, that's the only place where there would be sparks, even so it's much safer than fuel on a hot engine.
You could get more fuel resistant hose, you would need a short length of hard pipe to make the join
There is always so many haters on here. Don't let them get you down! Thanks for sharing your life with us!
A small amount of diesel in petrol/gas won't be a problem, it might even act as an upper cylinder lubricant. Likewise, a very small amount of petrol/gas in diesel won't hurt.
It's also gravity assist fed like a siphon. Once it's started it would go on without much help. You could probably turn it off once it started.
If you'd have the container below the tank it would probably be slower.
We all know that the timber frame is up because there are no beams laying around. Those little pumps I have used for years to empty my deep fryer. The kind I have has a removal hose. Great video again.
You guys are so much fun to watch first thing in the morning! Y'all crack me up with your sense of humor. "If it catches fire...like...run really fast." LOL> Too funny. And...I do miss Mal. We have always had cats and dogs. My best buddy ever was a cat I had named Sox. He was a tabby mixed with bobcat. Very big, smart, and extremely fast. And very loving too. He would lay in the living room floor and see a fly mosying around and leap from a laying position and catch that sucker in mid air then let it go and do it again and again until the fly was dead. LOL. We had him and his little brother Rascal. Rascal was the best mouser I have ever seen. Rascal could be laying on the couch asleep and hear a mouse in the next room, disappear and a few minutes later come back with a dead mouse and drop it on the floor in front of you. The he would sit and meow at you until you petted him and told him he was a good boy. He was more like a dog than a cat. We had them for over 14 years before they passed. Bugaboo reminds me of those two brothers we had. They were so adorable and fun. Ya gotta love 'em.
Get a 4 inch PVC pipe to store it in. Glue a cap on one side and just place the other side on with no glue as a cap. On the side write FUEL PUMP. with a sharpie. Done!
These pumps have been on the market, since the late 70s. We used them when I was young, to fill our kerosene heaters.
Where is the last Timber Frame day?????
What I use for this type of fuel transfer is a "Jiggler Siphon Pump." Very inexpensive, simple to use, requires no batteries, metal parts are brass (no sparking, for when transferring gasoline ) and they work about as fast as the pump your friend Roman recommended. I've used them for years! Simply go to eBay and search for "Jiggler Siphon Pump." The way it works is you insert the working, brass end, well into your 5 gallon tank of fuel (any liquid) that you want to transfer. Put the other end into you vehicle, or where ever your transferring it to. Make sure your 5 gallon tank with the fuel to be transferred is higher than the tank you're transferring to. Then you just jiggle the brass siphon working end until the gas starts to flow. Once the flow of fuel starts you stop jiggling and wait for the amount of fuel you want transferred is complete. Having done this many times I would guess it works about as fast as your "Roman" pump but without the worry of electricity, sparks, explosion, etc. Most are sold with a 6ft. transfer tube but if you need something longer just pull off the 6ft tube & go to Home Depo and buy any length you might need. I think it's about a half inch tube but just take the original 6ft tube with you so you get the right size tube.
Really like your videos & am looking forward to seeing your Timber Frame go up!
As you said, it needs to be higher.
That is one of the issues
I bought mine at Harbor Freight for $8.00 empties 5 gals in 3 minutes
Timber frame, timber frame, timber frame. Then you can do life hacks. Lol
There is a company called Tera Pump that makes several different electric gas can pumps including ones that have an auto stop feature.
We use gas cans for hurricane prep and what does not go into the generator we put in the car and truck. Always a mess, as far as I can tell man can not make a gas can and spout that does not leak. I will definitely be getting one of these, thanks for the info!
I have used these wand pumps for years but not for gas. I use them to drain all the water out of a toilet when one needs removed or replaced. No more waddle walk hoping it don't slosh and spill
My cousin has a similar pump and we have used it on off road motorcycle trips. Works great. Although his pump has an auto shut off at the hose end that prevents it from over filling.
Where I grew up, we had a gas tank on a low tower, about 5 feet off the ground. It held thousands of gallons and a tanker truck came by now and then to fill it. We gassed our tractors, etc. from that central tank. No trips to town for gas, at least.
II have gone thru 3 in the last 10 years at my cabin in Ky. They don't break but the motors do wear out, and I droped one. The motor is under the the battery but above the hose, a shaft runs to the bottom and has a an impeller at the inlet. I don't know how bad wasp and dirtdobbers are in your area but you should keep the ends covered just in case, the gas will evaporate and they build fast.I have been watching for about 6 months, LOVE YOUR VIDs. Keep up the GREAT WORK!!!
I think most of that transfer is by siphon. That is likely why moves the 5 gal faster than expected. I used a siphon on my boat for fuel transfer with the same effect. You don't have to have the can much higher for it to work and the diameter of the tubing is your speed limit.
I'm ordering that gas pump right now.
I bought the one Wranglerstar showed and it is the greatest thing I've ever purchased. Being in a wheelchair it's made filling my quad and lawnmower soooo easy.
why all the negative comments on a product made outside of the USA, I think its a very useful product doing an effective job.
First video I rolled my eyes. I have been using these battery pumps for 15 years. I'm on my 3rd pump. The switch broke on the first pump and the bottom came off the second pump. At $20 why make a big deal out of using a cheap pump that does the job for you.? If you are hard up for money to buy a replacement pump, skip eating out for one dinner. LOL
From what I've seen during the past few weeks, I'm sure Alyssa can carry more than just 5 galon gas cans :)
I have a siphon tube with a hand pump that gets the siphon started, It's used for emptying the fish tank for cleaning. I think that would work almost as well as this pump but without the electricity.
12 volt diesel fuel submersible transfer pump -- 12 L/M -- 15.50 on ebay -- I used one to pump fuel out of a 55 gallon drum. -- worked great
Your can't hide the timberframe from us (7:22)!!!
It looks great!!! Can't wait to see the official unveiling of the frame!
the plastic bit is from a hand pump kerosene pump, seen them all the time in Japan when I was stationed there. They dont have natural gas lines ran underground so they use Kerosene and small Propane tanks. The battery powered part is just a light duty fuel pump for a car. You could make something like this with an external fuel pump for a car and put some real long wires from the + and - of the pump and on other end of wires put clamps like would be on a car battery charger then just clamp to the tractor battery or any other 12v source, and somewhere on the + wire put a switch.. But I would not run THAT pump or any other pump dry for very long, it will burn the pump up. It uses whatever your pumping to keep it cool.
Y’all must not watch Wranglerstar. He showed one of these that’s higher quality a while back. It can screw down in place of the gas can nozzle. Those little pumps sure are a life saver.
Chris Is well I’m still in my right mind (as far as I know) and I do. Great channel.
The frame looks as good as the pump :)
For a never fail siphon technique, get two fuel lines that will fit in your fuel can at the same time. One hose needs to be long enough to function as a siphon. The other hose only needs to be long enough to go into the gas can an inch or two (above the fuel level). Set both hoses in place, wad a rag around the hoses where they enter your 5 gallon fuel can and hold it tight with one hand. The idea is to stop air pressure from escaping as you blow through the short hose. The air pressure you create inside the fuel can will force fuel through the siphon hose. Once the siphon action begins, stop blowing and just watch the magic. Batteries not included.
Never run a pump dry. It'll shorten it's lifespan. Same reason you shouldn't run your vehicle very low on fuel.
Should toss a auxiliary tank in your truck for the diesel anyway,could always use it in the truck if needed,you can find them for good deals on Craigslist quit often,they even have a regular gas station style pump!
Been using one of these for years for kerosene, emptying stale gas, etc. etc. etc. Always worked great. Doubt it's exactly the same brand but I've had a couple over the years and all have functioned well.
more on gas cans. crap!
I use a shaker siphon. No batteries.....only issue is you have to have he tank higher cause it's a siphon. With the the front end loader it would work. But thing would be great for the small stuff and cars.
That little ring on the side of the pump is for storing the end of the flexible hose so it doesn't whip all over the place.
Jesse was way to happy about this battery powered pump. Lol... Well, the little things in life, right!
Jesse once the pump starts the fuel running, try turning the pump off, I think siphon action will make it fill and it'll save on your battery. That should when ever your able to put the fuel can above the spout.
It depends on if it's a centrifugal pump (like a sump pump), for instance. In that instance of pump type, if you don't put a check valve on the output line the fluid that is still in the line, when the pump shuts off, will come right back into the sump bowl. And I suspect (from the sound of it running, and it would be a good use of that sort of design), the pump that Jesse has is that type...
I've used these before, some better than other but great product, Mine was used for Kerosene Heaters and one for Lawnmower. by the way, the hole on the back is to hold the end of the hose tip , and though mine was a bit different it still going strong after 4 years, I would say that's dependent on use level. keep up the great videos
The actual pump is at the bottom of the "Stick", therefore no priming is necessary. For storage, try a piece of 2 or 3" PVC.
A great find for $20? I'm sold.... Thanks for the update!
Every farmer I know has a 12 volt pump on the tank behind the cab in the bed of their truck. They use them all the time and I don't know of any of them catching fire. If I were you I would get one of those and get a 50 gallon barrel and put it in the truck and tie it off or in a trailer. You can put a long hose on these things, farmers fuel up big tractors, combines and everything else when they are out in the field.
Clicked and bought the pump! Thanks guys! Can't wait to pump fuel without wearing it.
Jesse, that writing on the package is Japanese not Chinese. These are commonly used in Japanese households to fill the kerosene heaters. They are good quality and safe to use.
Oh! I see the problem, you’re using those new safety spouts with the spring activated lock - those are horrendous.
I bailed on those and switched back to the old school yellow nozzle - haven’t spilled a drop since.
Electric fuel pumps in gasoline tanks cannot burn because there is no oxygen. Fuel vapor, no matter how little the amount of liquid present, displaces all other gasses and quickly. I have seen 12 volt wiring inside a 50 gallon gasoline tank melt through it's insulation and eventually disintegrate after the two leads got crossed at the pump. No fire. I have seen it more than once.
Jessie’s enthusiasm is just contagious. It was so cute. “Do you think we can do the generator” lol.
Also think of all the money you will save with out spilling all that fuel.
It's made out of Chinesium that's why it has that feel.
I can only recommend A-TRFA01-001 by TeraPump. It is higher quality, has an auto-stop function preventing overspill. Runs on 4x AA batteries and displaces 3 gallons per minute.
Thanks for the recommendation. I just bought my father-in-law one for Christmas from a local outdoors store.
A solution that might work for you would be an elevated fuel tank. You could have bulk fuel delivered, and with an elevated tank gravity makes a pump unnecessary. 300 gallon tanks are fairly inexpensive, and you can get divided tanks that can hold both diesel and gasoline. An added benefit (in our area) is being able to get marked fuel which does not have road taxes on it, the fuel being intended for farm use, I.e. for off road vehicles.
Maybe this has already been mentioned, Jesse, but... During the winter (generator season), I keep both fuel tanks in my pick-up full, which equates to just under 50 gallons, and pump it into the generator as needed. It has the same exact engine as your sawmill, Kohler CommandPro 25, which is mighty thirsty. Your new truck is diesel, not sure if she has dual tanks, but it seems to me you already have a transfer tank, for the backhoe, a really big transfer tank with a gas (throttle) pedal. Maybe extend the inlet and outlet of your new battery operated transfer pump, and voila ! Maybe want to add a little clip-on ground strap, but, whatever works for your safety comfort level. Keep warm, You Two ! =)~
Two hard working people, a loving couple, slowly but surely realising their dream. High Five you two!
gasoline like others hydrocarbons are perfect electrical insulators..every vehicle has a fuel pump submerged in gasoline or diesel..
Congratulations on the Timber Frame and it's great to see survival by all. I can't wait to see the results. A young couple who both earn respect and admiration of this senior.
If you cant wait check their instagram, they have lots of pictures there (for a long time)
You might want to wrap some elec. or duct tape around the base of the hose as a strain relief to keep it from cracking. I would also try to warm it up a little before using it since that hose looks like it could get very stiff and crack from the cold.
Anything will help. That hose will not survive repeated bending in cold temperatures.
You two are amazing. Love the new fueling pump. ! My wifey here says she would like to have one for the lawn mowers. 100% agree. Guess what? Yes,! We are eager to see the framing completion. No complaints though. We are practicing patience with Alyssa cause we know that quality video work is on the way. Two days you say? ok then!
To store that pump you could always use a short section of PVC pipe.
Those type of pumps have been around for years there is also gravity feed non-battery operated ones I thought just about everybody that used fuel like that would know about them.
all the youtubers are pushing for comments right now this is probably there way of pushing for comments to if you don't like it stop commenting
I've got an old piece of scrap pvc pipe (I think I used 4" maybe 3", don't remember) with caps for both ends that I store mine in. NO MESS!
Nice!
I glued my bottom cap on. The top cap proved to be a bit of a pain to remove (especially with gloves, cold hands, etc) so I drilled a hole in the top of the cap and inserted a simple piece of nylon webbing (tag ends of a piece about 16" long) through and tied the tag ends together to form a "jam knot" on the underside of the cap. This leaves a large loop coming up out of the cap so you can just grab the loop and pull up to remove the cap. I applied some silicone around the underside and top of the hole. I don't have much trouble with my webbing wanting to slide down into the cap as I made the hole fairly small to make the webbing fit tightly. If you had a problem with that, you could just insert a small nail or cotter pin through the webbing on top of the cap to prevent it from sliding down. I wasn't too worried about mine leaking (and it hasn't) because I just leave it upright in the corner or hang it from a hook on the pegboard in my storage area or shop.
I purchased one similar (tractor supply) and really like it, mine though has a round rocker switch which I think is better, much quicker to shut off when you've discovered you've gone to far and close to spill-over, which is easy to do with small gas tanks. There's also a manual squeeze bulb type in the same similar configuration which also works well.
P.S.- I use an empty milk/water plastic jug to set the pickup tube in to collect any slow draining fuel.
The battery power is mainly used to get the fuel flowing. Once it's going, it's mainly a siphon )for the backhoe).
Peter Young I doubt that merely siphoning would make the fuel run that fast.
If you still have a piece of pvc 5 inch diameter or so cut it long enough to put it in and glue one cap on to store it safely.
I just do not understand. What is so hard about finding two clean barrels and going to Home Depot or an of many numerous stores and getting a couple of barrel pumps and fill one up with gas and the other with diesel. Good fuel hand crank barrel pumps that really move some fuel can be had for under $60 each and a couple of good clean barrels for fuel can be had from free to $35 each. Drive the backhoe up to the barrel, fuel it up.
If you want an improved version look for TERAPUMP TRFA01 the pickup doesn't need to be held and the pump rate is higher 3gpm Also has overflow protection.
Do they not sell funnels in the USA?
We've never recovered from the Great Funnel Shortage of '74. It's hellish here. We have no way to pour liquids cleanly.
If you guys are still looking for gas cans go to your lows and buy a surecan we love them for our landscaping company.
I bought a VERY similar model at Northern Tool because it specifically said it was safe for Gasoline! I was VERY nervous about it, but there are several key factors. 1 the pump motor is submerged in the gasoline. just like the fuel pump in your car. Fuel, needs 2 things to burn. 1 fuel obviously, 2- air and there is an exact ratio of fuel to air needed before ignition can occur. By putting the pump motor fully submerged, you eliminate the air. The FUMES that happen from the fuel being transferred are FAR more volatile! By using a low voltage motor and by enclosing the switch for the pump, sparks from the switch and fumes are less likely to happen and be exposed to one another. But....Gasoline is still something to be taken seriously.
Mine has broken several times. they are VERY cheaply made. the hose breaks, they are not flexible at all (I use mine for draining oddly shaped motorcycle gas tanks) and you cannot fully empty some tanks. if you get below 1/4-1/2" if gas under the pump motor, it loses suction.
I have been trying to find a better option under $100-150 for gasoline that is electrically powered, but have not found one yet.
don't put it near the fire but don't leave it out in the cold either. Keep it out of the sun when not in use, that will make it last longer. Sun degrades plastic.
I need one of these for water changes in my aquarium.
There are 12 volt motors with filters built-in and you use battery clips on your car battery or a portable battery cart. I'm not sure the GPM but it's really nice. A lot of truckers use them The Pump Fuel from the reefer
And don't worry about using two pumps for diesel or gas. A few drops of gas in your diesel will just act like a fuel line cleaner and clean the injectors. In the winter trucker put in a half pint of gasoline in a hundred gallons of diesel to make the diesel burn a little hotter. And a couple ounces of diesel in 10 or 20 gallons of gasoline provides upper cylinder lubrication and helps clean the varnish out of the lines carburetor or fuel injectors. Many fuel additives from the auto parts store are just fuel oil based
You can extend it by putting a piece of garden hose on it, then you can leave the fuel can on the ground, that's what I did with mine
We used those pumps in the steel mill I worked at for our kerosene heaters. They worked great as long as you don't drop them. They never burned up but can't take an impact.
We run a Honda generator at our hunting shack. We purchased an attachable fuel tank that holds 5 gallons of gas so we only have to fill a few times. We run the AC unit at times all night and never run out of gas. Think about looking into one, it makes of grid situations much nicer. It buys you a ton of time between fills and they are not very expensive. Love your videos! Keep up the great work!
Good idea in some situations for sure.. Probably better once the house is up to look at long term solutions instead of polishing a turd again. Something we've grown quite unfond of over time. Our Honda was meant to last a couple years and is by no means proper for the type of power we'll want in the house.
Those darn turds! They always need polishing! Love watching you guys. Your both doing amazing!
Wow totally forgot about them!...I remember that type of fuel transfer pumps from like 25+ years ago, a friend had Go-karts but the only fuel cans then were 20 liter/5 gal military type or round ones and a funnel and plenty of spillage until he bought a battery powered transfer pump
For those folks concerned about fuel and pumps, aircraft have electric pumps mounted in the bottom of the tanks. So when you are flying on those commercial jets, enjoy your flight.
If you drive a car or truck built after 1990 or so, you probably have an electric pump at the bottom of your gas tank. And gas is far more flammable than jet fuel (JP4, JP5).
Dont start the pump dry you'll burn the seal.
Love this thanks for always showing us new stuff , love your attitude towards everything so positive
I don't know the situation in the US but in the Netherlands, red diesel is banned for use in transport trucks/cars etc and only allowed in other (farm) engines. The red dye is used to check if people use the red diesel in normal cars or trucks. It can be detected even after you have fuelled a car 6 to 10 times after one time fueling with red diesel. So be carefull with cross use of the same pump to prevent contaminating your regular truck with red diesel.
Here in the US, red diesel is for off road use only as well. If you are caught using it in a vehicle that is registered for use on road, then you are in big trouble. Also here, the off road diesel is cheaper, and poorer quality because it goes through less of a refining process. I wouldn't put that in my truck even if it was legal.
I don't know where these urban myths come from. I own a farm and buy off road diesel in bulk. I sign a piece of paper it comes undyed, I don't they deliver the fuel and dye it right there in my tank. Save $.02 per gallon undyed (cost of dyeing) There is no difference in the fuel, no difference in the processing. Do you really think the refiner is going to make a different fuel and engine manufacturers are going to make different models of the same engine for fuel/use combinations? Cummins guy "Oh, this QSM is going on a farm tractor put the crappy fuel package on it".
I have worked as a lab technician at an Esso (exxon) reffinery and in the Netherlands we use the same quality standards for red or clear diesel, the only difference is that the dye is added at the reffinery. It is a recuirement from our goverment to give them a possibillity (and they do use it) to see if people use the cheaper (because of lower taxes) red diesel. The red dye is used, because it can be detected even after diluting it close to a thousand times with the clean, undyed diesel.
I saw Jesse use red diesel so I assumed that was used for simular reasons, but I did mention that I did not know if its use in the US, or even the different states, is identical.
At the moment the difference in price between red and clear diesel is about 20% with a price of clear diesel of about 5 dollar/gallon (because of taxes). So the government really does want to prevent fraude by means of unintended use of red diesel.
I've see similar pumps operated by hand - mostly to refill bigger generators. Those are spill proof as well and work every time you want to use them. Batteries are bad - but you could try rechargeable ones.
I've been thinking of this video the entire day so far... So much so that I came back to see the fuel pump link. Thanks.
You guys could invest into purchasing a fuel storage tank which you can gas up your vehicles and equipment from. Seen other homesteading and off the grid channels on TH-cam who have them or an even cheaper option is a fuel tank pump that goes into the back of your pickup truck which you fill up at the gas station and then refuel your equipment from the bed of your pickup.
No fuels conduct electricity, so don't worry about electricity in fuel. A battery isn't going to make enough of a spark to ignite fuels in case of a short. Don't worry about fire hazards due to the pump. FYI your truck probably has an electric fuel pump within the gas tank itself.
Just an idea for your generator and power. I've been off grid 9 years, what I did for a start was buy 4 of walmart biggest rv batteries, around 75 each, and a 800 watt inverter. I only used the generator for high demands like power tools, laundry, and mainly charging batteries. At night I would only put a little gas in the generator and plug battery chargers into it, that way when the generator died I still had power for the night. I remember counting how many seconds of fuel to pour so I knew when it would shut off. 800 watts does not sound like much, but it lit a 4 bedroom house, small led lcd tv and laptop plus charged our phones all night. I gradually upgraded to more batteries, bigger invertors, and solar panels off craigslist. Now we have a huge upright fridge, and can do laundry without running a generator on a system that cost me 3000. I did a lot of barging hunting to build it, but we have normal power now without being on the grid or running a generator daily. Living off gtid turned from a hobby to a lifestyle that I don't ever want to give up.
Great video, great review, beautiful scenery at the end !
You can get two small batteries and your life instantly changes...
I will let that one go.
If you're suprised by putting a electric motor next to petrol/diesel, then you should know that the auxilary fuel pump in your car sits inside the fuel tank. Petrol being the easier to ignite, it's not dangerous. It's the fumes that are highly flamable.
About the thing being made in China, well the was majority of USA flags are made in China and all the uniforms your troops use are also made in China.
Cool deal I’m definitely getting one of these. If you use rechargeable lithium AA & AAA batteries get a some of the D and C battery adapters so you don’t have to pay the ridiculous prices fo the alkaline D and C batteries only to have them leak and destroy your pump or other electronics. We use AA lithium’s and D adaptors in our on demand propane water heater. It’s nice knowing it will not be ruined by the batteries leaking. Great channel, we’ve been watch since the beginning.
You don´t need much to pump fuel, if the gas can is higher than what you want to fill you need the pump just at the begining then gravity and pressure do the rest.
If you get a hose on the spout and blow some air inside the can you can get it flowing just by increasing the pressure inside the can, no pump needed.
These pumps have been around for years. I have used them on a kerosene heater back in the mid-90s.