I have a Behringer XENYX 802 mixer and put my acoustic/electric guitar through one channel and my vocal mic through the other. I am seriously looking to downsize the current powered speakers I have. Which one's here would you recommend for a solo artist that plays small venues using guitar and vocals, the B210D or the B110D?
Hi! Are these a lot louder than the 108 and 208? Which of these four (108, 208, 110 and 210) would you suggest I buy for busking? (Considering I need a lot of volume but minimum weight). Thank you in advance, I loved this review!
Hi nice review I noticed, you are a guitarist. I plan to use this as an FRFR HX Stomp floor monitor. how do these compare as FRFR monitors for a guitar modeler ?
Great video. This was, by far, the most explanatory video I’ve ever watched trying to get some information on the B110 D and B210D by Behringer. My question is what would you recommend for me for a closed venue for up to 300 people. Will a pair of Behringer b110 work? Or would you recommend a pair of b112d speakers better? Thanks for the advise and say hi to Logan for me from Mexico. The main use for the speakers will be voice output, not music. They’ll be used for lecturing and speakers talking to an audience. Thanks again. Looking forward to hearing from you.
For just voice, either will work fine for that size, and the 10" version is obviously smaller and lighter. The 12" will give a bit more bass capability to the voice (or whatever signal you send through), but you likely won't notice that unless the person speaking has a very deep "radio" type voice. Even then, the 10" will not sound tinny.
Didn't notice if you mentioned the 210 can lay down as a stage wedge. Doesn't look like the 110 can. I have a 210 for rare keyboard or drum monitoring (I think I needed it once) and I use their 12" stage wedges which do the job running off an x32 through turbosound iq foh. I was curious what the difference was. thanks.
The 210s don't really have an angle to lay down like a wedge. I'm not sure I understand what differences you're trying to figure out, though. Between the 12" stage wedges and these 210/110s?
I've heard the 8" models, and they sound fine, but I can't recommend them in comparison to the 10" and 12" versions, mostly due to the price. They definitely need a sub with them, though. The only way I can see anybody needing the 8" model is if they NEED it to be small and lightweight and the 10/12" is just too big... The price is not much less than the 10" model, so it doesn't make sense to buy the 8" over the 10". Personally, I only use the B112D anymore in this BXXXD line. I don't do any DJing, but I use them for my studio to test out my music with various speakers that people may have, and also if I want to use them outside for a party or something. I don't use them for mixing, they are not acoustically discernible enough for that. If you want to project for a party scene, then you'll want a bigger driver than an 8" in my opinion. If you want an 8" speaker for general listening, then I have other speakers I can recommend for use in a studio, theater, bedroom, etc... IF you can get the B208D for like 120$ each or something, then I guess it would be worth it. If you don't mind the size, and you have money, get the B112Ds... they are pretty awesome and a great value.
JET studios - scott jaster thx for the reply. I had,the 115 before but weren't loud enough. I want a small system like the 8 or the 10 to Match up with the behringer b1200d for low end. I have a big system for bigger partys. I know stand alone any of those 2 won't be good. but with the 12 inch behringer sub it should sound good.
djizzynyc I think either the 8 or 10 inch will be perfectly fine with that sub. Just make sure that you get the 200 series, not The 100 series. For some reason the older speakers sound a bit more balanced than the new ones except for the 12-inch model. that was my impression anyways.
Everything you're describing sounds EXACTLY like the difference between a broken in Speaker and a not broken in speaker. How many hours are on your 110D?
Well, I've never compared to the Yorkville YX10P in person, so I can only compare the specs. And even the specs don't always tell the truth. Direct comparison shows both the B110 and B210 as having more "wattage" overhead than the YX10P, but that can be misleading depending on how it's measured and how clean the input/output signals are. The Yorkville has a two-channel mixer built-in, and the B110 is single-channel, but the B110 has standard inputs, while the Yorkville will need an adapter for Ch1. The benefit of having the two input channels is that you can mix a stereo signal into one speaker. If you don't have a mixer then you can only use the left or right stereo signal per speaker, or left AND right if the signal is mono. However, the B112 has a two-channel mixer, and I recommend that over the 10" series as a better value. Most of the time you would have two of the speakers anyways, so a mixer may be irrelevant to you. The Yorkville is almost 2x the price, and I seriously doubt it would have 2x the sound quality. Also, Amazon sells the Behringers directly and fulfills the order as well, which means you can return easily within their grace period. That's a huge plus. The Yorkville only seems to be sold from specific vendors and I doubt it will be easy to return in case of a problem. My recommendation would be take the safe route and get the B110d or B210d, unless you have an opportunity to compare them in person with your own ears and you are able to determine justification for the increased expense. Hope that helps a bit at least! : /
Pretty much, because the newer "100" lines all use the new interface boards and newer amps. I've since had an opportunity to test the 15s, and my conclusion was to stay with the 12" models for myself and use an dedicated subwoofer (mostly studio reference and house parties). The 15s didn't have as much bass as I would like and they are quite large. They were missing that punch that you get from a 12" PA driver, and didn't deliver the powerful bass of a dedicated 15-18". That is what you might expect, though... you can't really have the best of both worlds with a loud speaker. You can get close with near-field studio speakers, but again, that's only when you sit very close to them because they won't project. The benefit of a 15" PA driver is that it simply pushes more air and will project out more. The answer lies in your intended venue. Never expect huge thumping bass from a 15" PA (or any PA), but expect the larger drivers to project farther. You will "hear" the bass from a 15" PA driver from farther away, in general. But how far do you want to project? How many will you need? It's all about distance and coverage. For like 300-500 people, I would think that four 12" PAs and two 15" subs would be fine (barring different listening preferences). If you want to fill a 50 person bar, then two 12" PAs and sub will be fine. For a school auditorium (500-800? )you may want to use a couple 15s, a couple 12s, and a couple subs. For 1000-2000 people concerts you may want to have eight 15" PAs along with four 18-21" subs. If you are using the PAs as reference in your studio for that sort of speaker, or for your personal house/basement, two 12s and a sub will be plenty. etc... For a family room or house party, two 12" PAs may be fine by themselves, and you can always add a single sub later if needed.
Hey dude, my speaker came early and the cable works fine, thanks dude, a few more questions, what will happen if I keep clipping it?, what will happen if I turn level up to the mic bit, and I put my hand next to the tweeter and it was warm, is that a bad thing?
Trucker Josh well, clipping is hard to explain unless you understand how a speaker works. Simply put, the back-and-forth movement of the speaker is supposed to coincide with the frequency of the signal. The higher you turn the amplitude/gain, the deeper the speaker moves back and forth, this is called the Excursion. Clipping is when the speaker is not able to cleanly move back and forth in its full cycle. In other words, the signal will be moving faster than the speaker is able to move at that amplitude. What this means is that the speaker may move out, and then move back in, but the signal may tell it to move back out again before it has moved in all the way. So the Speaker movement (output) gets out of alignment with the (input) signal and starts moving in weird ways to try to keep up. This creates an uneven sound, and also does not allow the speaker to cool like it is supposed to while it's moving appropriately. The output signal of this looks like the peaks of the sound waves are cut off flat, which is one way to understand what clipping is. When clipping, a speaker can get too hot, and this can burn out the voice coils or circuits. Speakers can get a bit warm because that is a conversion of energy into the form of heat, which does not always do damage if kept to reasonable level. You don't want it to get so hot that it actually burns the wires or the circuits, though. If your speakers are clipping, that means that either you have a damaged circuit or voice coil, that the speaker cannot handle that frequency at that amplitude (your gain or volume is too loud), or the signal is very dirty and the speaker has a hard time representing the dirty signal and that makes it go into clipping as well. One way to fix this is to adjust crossover on your Sub signals to send less of a frequency range to your sub, or turn the gain down on the sub frequencies. Typically, the lower frequency signals will clip first, so you can simply turn down the bass. There are a lot of troubleshooting techniques, and a lot of variables, though. Hopefully that helps a little?
Sir, i am planning to buy this pa I just want to know if they are 220v and 60hz(you can see them on the back panel). We goin to use this pa for our church. God Bless
My dad purchased a pair of b210ds when I was 6 years old I’m 13 now and they still do the jobs at small gigs and foldbacks I plan to upgrade so I defenetly would go for the b210d
I was playing it for about an hour and it just cut, I took it home and it won't turn on. But when you bash on the back it comes on for a sec then goes back off
Trucker Josh that sounds like a loose connection inside. Like a solder that came loose or something? Does it go into clip protection? Does it do that at all volume levels?
So I'm getting the 210 and I'm planning on playing it directly from my phone to the speaker, I'm planning on using the 1/4 port since it might be easier, I use the speaker for a fitness class and need it for every day of the week, I need to transport it around and that's why I don't want a mixer, so will this cable work if I only plug in the black connection, thanks dude., www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Trucker Josh that cable will work, however you will only be getting one side of the stereo signal. If the original signal is mono, then it makes no difference. If the stereo signal is different for L/R then you will be missing some of the song. Some songs have tracks panned to one side or the other such as certain vocals or guitars, so you are risking missing out on significant portions of the song, again, only if the original source is in stereo. If you want to make sure that you don't miss anything, then the easiest thing is to get a small combiner and mount it onto your speaker so you don't have extra things to carry around. Such as this: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GJCA6M?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
Trucker Josh remember that it will sound fine if the signal is mono or if the stereo signal is not very different between the left and right pans. For example, there is some techno music or metal music that fades and pans 70-100 % left to right sometimes. Like if there's some song that you are very familiar with that has certain effects that come out of one side only, you may notice it is missing like an entire guitar section or something, or some background vocals that you were expecting, etc... For new songs, you will likely not notice anything because you are not yet familiar with that song. Just a warning so that you can be aware if you ever notice that sort of thing. Most of the time it should be fine. The real problem comes into play when you try to put a stereo signal into a single pa input. You will definitely hear weird sounds because the left and right waveforms will create constructive and deconstructive patterns. The simple thing is to just change the song if it sounds weird if you don't want to have a combiner/summer/mixer inline in some formf, lol. : )
Trucker Josh lol, the simple answer is to use the 110 if you only want to use a single speaker. But if you already have a 210, then just use that left and right splitter cable and plug one of your cables into the speaker. If it sounds weird, change the song. Haha. : )
The Behringer B110D has a frequency range of 45hz-20k The Behringer B210D has a frequency range of 65hz-20k how is it possible that B210D has a better bass response?
@@maurizioandreataverna8844 I would recommend the b210d, because that's what I would get if I had to choose one over the other. Power ratings and frequency ranges are just specifications. The real life performance is something different. I didn't run output responses through analysis tools, but listening critically to them with different signal inputs, different volume levels, different types of sounds, using a frequency sweep signal, etc.. the b210d just plain sounded better. People usually want the newer models of whatever to be better, and it usually is, but it's not always the case. 😁
B 210d is just a sh!t. I got the b110d. The high freq driver on the 210, just does everything. The mid speaker in the 210 is just nothing. It makes sound, but way worse, than the b110d. Like as i said, b110d does not need a sub. It sounds real good outside, and it has a lot of bass. I use two of them, with an italian stage s112a sub. But the behringer 110s dont need a sub really much.
Why would I use a sound sample that you can't hear from those speakers? LOL. Any sounds that you hear from this video would be coming from your own speakers. Think about it... : )
thank you SO MUCH for this. It really helped me out!
This is exactly what I needed to watch thanks.
thank you so much for your review!!! MOst helpful
I have a Behringer XENYX 802 mixer and put my acoustic/electric guitar through one channel and my vocal mic through the other. I am seriously looking to downsize the current powered speakers I have. Which one's here would you recommend for a solo artist that plays small venues using guitar and vocals, the B210D or the B110D?
Hi! Are these a lot louder than the 108 and 208? Which of these four (108, 208, 110 and 210) would you suggest I buy for busking? (Considering I need a lot of volume but minimum weight). Thank you in advance, I loved this review!
Hi
nice review
I noticed, you are a guitarist.
I plan to use this as an FRFR HX Stomp floor monitor.
how do these compare as FRFR monitors for a guitar modeler ?
Great video. This was, by far, the most explanatory video I’ve ever watched trying to get some information on the B110 D and B210D by Behringer. My question is what would you recommend for me for a closed venue for up to 300 people. Will a pair of Behringer b110 work? Or would you recommend a pair of b112d speakers better?
Thanks for the advise and say hi to Logan for me from Mexico. The main use for the speakers will be voice output, not music. They’ll be used for lecturing and speakers talking to an audience. Thanks again. Looking forward to hearing from you.
For just voice, either will work fine for that size, and the 10" version is obviously smaller and lighter. The 12" will give a bit more bass capability to the voice (or whatever signal you send through), but you likely won't notice that unless the person speaking has a very deep "radio" type voice. Even then, the 10" will not sound tinny.
chingon saludos a logan desde sonora., gracias por compartir
What's the difference with the watts? 210 is 200 and 110 is 300, is that even a consideration?
Didn't notice if you mentioned the 210 can lay down as a stage wedge. Doesn't look like the 110 can. I have a 210 for rare keyboard or drum monitoring (I think I needed it once) and I use their 12" stage wedges which do the job running off an x32 through turbosound iq foh. I was curious what the difference was. thanks.
The 210s don't really have an angle to lay down like a wedge. I'm not sure I understand what differences you're trying to figure out, though. Between the 12" stage wedges and these 210/110s?
Super!
Is the 210 loud enough for gigs? they look cool I want to run them thru some line level multi guitar effects..
Davit Lucas R it really depends on the size of your gig and how much bass you need, right? Not sure how to answer. ☺️
awesome breakdown and comparison. whats your take on the 8 inch models of these 2?
I've heard the 8" models, and they sound fine, but I can't recommend them in comparison to the 10" and 12" versions, mostly due to the price. They definitely need a sub with them, though. The only way I can see anybody needing the 8" model is if they NEED it to be small and lightweight and the 10/12" is just too big... The price is not much less than the 10" model, so it doesn't make sense to buy the 8" over the 10". Personally, I only use the B112D anymore in this BXXXD line. I don't do any DJing, but I use them for my studio to test out my music with various speakers that people may have, and also if I want to use them outside for a party or something. I don't use them for mixing, they are not acoustically discernible enough for that. If you want to project for a party scene, then you'll want a bigger driver than an 8" in my opinion. If you want an 8" speaker for general listening, then I have other speakers I can recommend for use in a studio, theater, bedroom, etc... IF you can get the B208D for like 120$ each or something, then I guess it would be worth it. If you don't mind the size, and you have money, get the B112Ds... they are pretty awesome and a great value.
JET studios - scott jaster thx for the reply. I had,the 115 before but weren't loud enough. I want a small system like the 8 or the 10 to Match up with the behringer b1200d for low end. I have a big system for bigger partys. I know stand alone any of those 2 won't be good. but with the 12 inch behringer sub it should sound good.
djizzynyc I think either the 8 or 10 inch will be perfectly fine with that sub. Just make sure that you get the 200 series, not The 100 series. For some reason the older speakers sound a bit more balanced than the new ones except for the 12-inch model. that was my impression anyways.
Everything you're describing sounds EXACTLY like the difference between a broken in Speaker and a not broken in speaker. How many hours are on your 110D?
Great review Scott how do they compare to the Yorkville YX10P ?
Well, I've never compared to the Yorkville YX10P in person, so I can only compare the specs. And even the specs don't always tell the truth. Direct comparison shows both the B110 and B210 as having more "wattage" overhead than the YX10P, but that can be misleading depending on how it's measured and how clean the input/output signals are. The Yorkville has a two-channel mixer built-in, and the B110 is single-channel, but the B110 has standard inputs, while the Yorkville will need an adapter for Ch1. The benefit of having the two input channels is that you can mix a stereo signal into one speaker. If you don't have a mixer then you can only use the left or right stereo signal per speaker, or left AND right if the signal is mono. However, the B112 has a two-channel mixer, and I recommend that over the 10" series as a better value. Most of the time you would have two of the speakers anyways, so a mixer may be irrelevant to you.
The Yorkville is almost 2x the price, and I seriously doubt it would have 2x the sound quality. Also, Amazon sells the Behringers directly and fulfills the order as well, which means you can return easily within their grace period. That's a huge plus. The Yorkville only seems to be sold from specific vendors and I doubt it will be easy to return in case of a problem. My recommendation would be take the safe route and get the B110d or B210d, unless you have an opportunity to compare them in person with your own ears and you are able to determine justification for the increased expense. Hope that helps a bit at least! : /
great, thank you so much, will go for the Behringer,
VERY USEFUL. I THINK WE COULD SAY THE SAME FOR B215D AND B115D OR NOT?
Pretty much, because the newer "100" lines all use the new interface boards and newer amps. I've since had an opportunity to test the 15s, and my conclusion was to stay with the 12" models for myself and use an dedicated subwoofer (mostly studio reference and house parties). The 15s didn't have as much bass as I would like and they are quite large. They were missing that punch that you get from a 12" PA driver, and didn't deliver the powerful bass of a dedicated 15-18". That is what you might expect, though... you can't really have the best of both worlds with a loud speaker. You can get close with near-field studio speakers, but again, that's only when you sit very close to them because they won't project.
The benefit of a 15" PA driver is that it simply pushes more air and will project out more. The answer lies in your intended venue. Never expect huge thumping bass from a 15" PA (or any PA), but expect the larger drivers to project farther. You will "hear" the bass from a 15" PA driver from farther away, in general. But how far do you want to project? How many will you need? It's all about distance and coverage. For like 300-500 people, I would think that four 12" PAs and two 15" subs would be fine (barring different listening preferences). If you want to fill a 50 person bar, then two 12" PAs and sub will be fine. For a school auditorium (500-800? )you may want to use a couple 15s, a couple 12s, and a couple subs. For 1000-2000 people concerts you may want to have eight 15" PAs along with four 18-21" subs. If you are using the PAs as reference in your studio for that sort of speaker, or for your personal house/basement, two 12s and a sub will be plenty. etc... For a family room or house party, two 12" PAs may be fine by themselves, and you can always add a single sub later if needed.
Hey dude, my speaker came early and the cable works fine, thanks dude, a few more questions, what will happen if I keep clipping it?, what will happen if I turn level up to the mic bit, and I put my hand next to the tweeter and it was warm, is that a bad thing?
Trucker Josh well, clipping is hard to explain unless you understand how a speaker works. Simply put, the back-and-forth movement of the speaker is supposed to coincide with the frequency of the signal. The higher you turn the amplitude/gain, the deeper the speaker moves back and forth, this is called the Excursion.
Clipping is when the speaker is not able to cleanly move back and forth in its full cycle. In other words, the signal will be moving faster than the speaker is able to move at that amplitude. What this means is that the speaker may move out, and then move back in, but the signal may tell it to move back out again before it has moved in all the way. So the Speaker movement (output) gets out of alignment with the (input) signal and starts moving in weird ways to try to keep up. This creates an uneven sound, and also does not allow the speaker to cool like it is supposed to while it's moving appropriately.
The output signal of this looks like the peaks of the sound waves are cut off flat, which is one way to understand what clipping is. When clipping, a speaker can get too hot, and this can burn out the voice coils or circuits. Speakers can get a bit warm because that is a conversion of energy into the form of heat, which does not always do damage if kept to reasonable level.
You don't want it to get so hot that it actually burns the wires or the circuits, though. If your speakers are clipping, that means that either you have a damaged circuit or voice coil, that the speaker cannot handle that frequency at that amplitude (your gain or volume is too loud), or the signal is very dirty and the speaker has a hard time representing the dirty signal and that makes it go into clipping as well.
One way to fix this is to adjust crossover on your Sub signals to send less of a frequency range to your sub, or turn the gain down on the sub frequencies. Typically, the lower frequency signals will clip first, so you can simply turn down the bass. There are a lot of troubleshooting techniques, and a lot of variables, though. Hopefully that helps a little?
JET studios - scott jaster, yea thanks dude
@@smonsterj Thats a good piece of explanation!! well done!
Sir, i am planning to buy this pa I just want to know if they are 220v and 60hz(you can see them on the back panel). We goin to use this pa for our church. God Bless
They are rated at 110V@60hz according to the back panel.
Take the top handle off and the 110 DOES have the screw hole for the bracket at the top.
My dad purchased a pair of b210ds when I was 6 years old I’m 13 now and they still do the jobs at small gigs and foldbacks I plan to upgrade so I defenetly would go for the b210d
13 AND A POT HEAD Nice but for large gigs you need a sub
Hello dude, remember when I messaged you when I was buying my b210d, it has already gave up
Trucker Josh Dang... what do you mean by that? Did it catch on fire or something? LOL. Do you have any idea what caused it to have issues?
I was playing it for about an hour and it just cut, I took it home and it won't turn on. But when you bash on the back it comes on for a sec then goes back off
Trucker Josh that sounds like a loose connection inside. Like a solder that came loose or something? Does it go into clip protection? Does it do that at all volume levels?
JET studios - scott jaster, what you mean?
So I'm getting the 210 and I'm planning on playing it directly from my phone to the speaker, I'm planning on using the 1/4 port since it might be easier, I use the speaker for a fitness class and need it for every day of the week, I need to transport it around and that's why I don't want a mixer, so will this cable work if I only plug in the black connection, thanks dude., www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Trucker Josh that cable will work, however you will only be getting one side of the stereo signal. If the original signal is mono, then it makes no difference. If the stereo signal is different for L/R then you will be missing some of the song. Some songs have tracks panned to one side or the other such as certain vocals or guitars, so you are risking missing out on significant portions of the song, again, only if the original source is in stereo. If you want to make sure that you don't miss anything, then the easiest thing is to get a small combiner and mount it onto your speaker so you don't have extra things to carry around. Such as this: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GJCA6M?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
JET studios - scott jaster, my friend has one and has the same cable and it sounds fine so I think it will be ok
Trucker Josh remember that it will sound fine if the signal is mono or if the stereo signal is not very different between the left and right pans. For example, there is some techno music or metal music that fades and pans 70-100 % left to right sometimes. Like if there's some song that you are very familiar with that has certain effects that come out of one side only, you may notice it is missing like an entire guitar section or something, or some background vocals that you were expecting, etc... For new songs, you will likely not notice anything because you are not yet familiar with that song. Just a warning so that you can be aware if you ever notice that sort of thing. Most of the time it should be fine. The real problem comes into play when you try to put a stereo signal into a single pa input. You will definitely hear weird sounds because the left and right waveforms will create constructive and deconstructive patterns. The simple thing is to just change the song if it sounds weird if you don't want to have a combiner/summer/mixer inline in some formf, lol. : )
I'm not really a a speaker master so I don't really understand lol
Trucker Josh lol, the simple answer is to use the 110 if you only want to use a single speaker. But if you already have a 210, then just use that left and right splitter cable and plug one of your cables into the speaker. If it sounds weird, change the song. Haha. : )
The Behringer B110D
has a frequency range of
45hz-20k
The Behringer B210D
has a frequency range of
65hz-20k
how is it possible that B210D has a better bass response?
It means that it simply reproduced bass sounds better in the low frequency ranges. Just sounded "better". To my ears anyways.
@@smonsterj
in theory therefore the b110d has many lower.
it also has more power having 300w. which do you recommend me?
@@maurizioandreataverna8844 I would recommend the b210d, because that's what I would get if I had to choose one over the other. Power ratings and frequency ranges are just specifications. The real life performance is something different. I didn't run output responses through analysis tools, but listening critically to them with different signal inputs, different volume levels, different types of sounds, using a frequency sweep signal, etc.. the b210d just plain sounded better. People usually want the newer models of whatever to be better, and it usually is, but it's not always the case. 😁
B 210d is just a sh!t. I got the b110d. The high freq driver on the 210, just does everything. The mid speaker in the 210 is just nothing. It makes sound, but way worse, than the b110d. Like as i said, b110d does not need a sub. It sounds real good outside, and it has a lot of bass. I use two of them, with an italian stage s112a sub. But the behringer 110s dont need a sub really much.
Everything needs more subz!!!! Lol. : )
@@smonsterj yes, i will get one more sub. But the b210d is crappy
I hate too much blah blah and no sound sample
Why would I use a sound sample that you can't hear from those speakers? LOL. Any sounds that you hear from this video would be coming from your own speakers. Think about it... : )