Almost all of the steel I have used in a year and a half has been heavily rusty from the scrap yard, mine shafts and other places like that. Honestly, after I am done with a product, it seems that rusty steel has a little bit more scale build up from the get go so it's a lot harder to wire brush for a nice shine. It just seems altogether less clean and nice looking. New mild steel is not that expensive if you get it at the right place! Old steel is nice due to the story it tells.
I have forged some extremely rusty steel, so I already know that unless you want to forge weld rust really isn't a huge issue, it generally converts into scale and flakes off so long as the pitting isn't excessive resulting in a relatively minor reduction in finish quality.
Thanks for this vid. It answered some questions I had. I'm a missionary in Mexico and I've been wanting to do some blacksmithing in my spare time, these videos have been a big help. God bless and keep up the good work.
Thanks for this video, answered my questions! And your comparison on using rusted material and clean stock, and weather or not to use for customers or tools for myself.
Great video! I didn't really learn anything new, but it helped with a bit of perspective. Made me think about what I know, and what I sometimes mistakenly assume others "should" know. My understanding of this comes from chemistry before I even started working with metal. Both red rust and the black iron oxide(sometimes called black rust) are Iron Oxide. Sometimes its good to be reminded what you think is basic knowledge, someone else has never heard of simply because of a different background. Keep up the great stuff. Define Your Legacy!!
I use slightly rusted metal all the time, I'm working on an English styled dagger right now from a lawnmower blade with slight rust, never seen why not to use it
Hey there Roy. When I saw the title of your video here I suspected what you have now confirmed. So long as the rust isn't too severe then it pretty much looks like the clean steel can be forged very much similar to rusty steel. Good video!!
can you heat a few different alloys to see if they give different results? (like vanadium steel, 403 stainless, 416 stainless, steel with copper, steel with chromium, etc...)
Nah, making steel from scratch is basically impossible in the home shop, cast iron is doable, but still super hard to do right, and very energy intesive.
When making broom handles for fireplace brooms for the clubs auction, we find that the public prefers a rustic look versus handles made with new stock. to make our handles I take and wire brush the steel lightly to get the heavy rust off, then take and heat an 18" pc. and using the power hammer and lightly planish all 4 sides to blend in the rough surface without drawing material down then chamfer the 4 corners lightly which leaves a semi smooth pleasant looking texture then I draw out 4" to make my signature hook and then flatten an area for the broom to be tied on finish withe the shop finish rag. This rag is heavily crusted with beeswax, linseed oil and what not. when finish dries its not sticky or excessively waxy
I forgot to mention this is some of the cruddiest pitted 1/2" stock we have, it was donated to the club by someone and we only use it for decorative elements only! after refineing as above
Just curious... What type of coal do you use? (Size, source, etc.) Ever tried wood charcoal? I’ve always wanted to but haven’t got my hands on any yet.
I have used both coal and charcoal. Charcoal sparks more, burns cleaner, and creates more ash while costing a bit more especially once you factor in how much faster it burns. Both are good fuels so long as you are using good quality coal or lump charcoal.
Not to be a knit picker but from what I was told by a trade blacksmith is that the tapping of a hammer on the anvil is to both remove scale from the hammer surface and to reposition your hold on it. Also I KNOW that the sound of it has been over used in movies, t.v. shows of Wich has conjured in the mind of the stereotypical "Blacksmith's is supposed to sound like". Witch also makes me wonder if it is simply because of the Handel shape being incorrect due to orientation problems... Or as I was slightly eluding to thieatracity~ s.p. to attract attention? What my thougt of the matter thus far is if it is not any of the valid engineering aspect of it. or is just wasted where and tear on your beloved equipment? Your thoughts and points are quite welcome. Thank you.. Carl
Carl Manx black bear forge has a good video on this question. Forge enough you’ll find yourself doin it naturally to Rest and keep up the rhythm while you evaluate where to hit next. Also to reorient the hammer. You won’t see it much while they’re roughing something quick but you’ll see a lot more of it putting on the finishing touches
hey roy i have found an anvil of 180 kg or 400 pounds for 1700 dollars im thinking ots a great deal as this guy deals with recycling metals of all sorts what do you think
grayem pepper, maybe you could talk him down with this info. You can get a 400lb new TFS anvil for $1900, or a 300lb for $1500. At $4+ per pound the surface and shape be exactly what you want. Maybe you can talk him down or find yourself a nicer deal elsewhere.
+grayem pepper hey there bud I think I'm going to go with Mark s on this one. Unless the Anvil that you are looking at is in Supreme condition that price seems a little high. And then again I do not know what anvils go for usually in Australia or how easy they are to come by so you may be right this may be an excellent deal to get a hold of. Those are really the two key factors the quality of the Anvil and your accessibility to be able to get an anvil like it. 3rd possible thought process if you're doing it for a business how long will it take you to recoup the cost of this Anvil I.E. will it make you money. I feel very honored that you would ask me my opinion in my advice God bless you my friend
grayem.. I have to agree with the others here as well. I ended up buying a brand new anvil that is everything I wanted, and could not find anything used that wasn't beatenup and over priced.
Thats double what you should be paying, just be patient, gumtree is a good way to find a reasonably priced anvil in Aus, anvils on ebay seem very expensive lately keep your eyes open and something better will come along
If I'm using rusty metal I just get it hot and give it a good scrub before forging
Almost all of the steel I have used in a year and a half has been heavily rusty from the scrap yard, mine shafts and other places like that. Honestly, after I am done with a product, it seems that rusty steel has a little bit more scale build up from the get go so it's a lot harder to wire brush for a nice shine. It just seems altogether less clean and nice looking. New mild steel is not that expensive if you get it at the right place! Old steel is nice due to the story it tells.
I have forged some extremely rusty steel, so I already know that unless you want to forge weld rust really isn't a huge issue, it generally converts into scale and flakes off so long as the pitting isn't excessive resulting in a relatively minor reduction in finish quality.
Thanks for this vid. It answered some questions I had. I'm a missionary in Mexico and I've been wanting to do some blacksmithing in my spare time, these videos have been a big help. God bless and keep up the good work.
The first thing you should do is to clear up your head of the myth called Christianity... 😂 😂 😂
Don't know but by your experiment if you stick it all in the fire it looks the same to me at least.
Thank you Roy I didn't know this I really like the help in things your guys have helped, be blessed and thank you
Thanks for this video, answered my questions! And your comparison on using rusted material and clean stock, and weather or not to use for customers or tools for myself.
Great video! I didn't really learn anything new, but it helped with a bit of perspective. Made me think about what I know, and what I sometimes mistakenly assume others "should" know. My understanding of this comes from chemistry before I even started working with metal. Both red rust and the black iron oxide(sometimes called black rust) are Iron Oxide. Sometimes its good to be reminded what you think is basic knowledge, someone else has never heard of simply because of a different background. Keep up the great stuff. Define Your Legacy!!
I use slightly rusted metal all the time, I'm working on an English styled dagger right now from a lawnmower blade with slight rust, never seen why not to use it
Hey there Roy. When I saw the title of your video here I suspected what you have now confirmed. So long as the rust isn't too severe then it pretty much looks like the clean steel can be forged very much similar to rusty steel. Good video!!
In a word, yes. Just get it hot and give it a good scrub.
can you heat a few different alloys to see if they give different results? (like vanadium steel, 403 stainless, 416 stainless, steel with copper, steel with chromium, etc...)
If it's severely rusted can't you just remelt it to get rid of the oxygen from the iron?
Nah, making steel from scratch is basically impossible in the home shop, cast iron is doable, but still super hard to do right, and very energy intesive.
How hot does the furnace have to be to reuse old steel or iron as opposed to raw iron to make it into steel?
When making broom handles for fireplace brooms for the clubs auction, we find that the public prefers a rustic look versus handles made with new stock. to make our handles I take and wire brush the steel lightly to get the heavy rust off, then take and heat an 18" pc. and using the power hammer and lightly planish all 4 sides to blend in the rough surface without drawing material down then chamfer the 4 corners lightly which leaves a semi smooth pleasant looking texture then I draw out 4" to make my signature hook and then flatten an area for the broom to be tied on finish withe the shop finish rag. This rag is heavily crusted with beeswax, linseed oil and what not. when finish dries its not sticky or excessively waxy
I forgot to mention this is some of the cruddiest pitted 1/2" stock we have, it was donated to the club by someone and we only use it for decorative elements only! after refineing as above
Can rust be recycled in some way? Perhaps into a cheaper gunpowder or cheaper metal material that can be used for other things?
historically, repetitive folding could remove impurities, but that might also remove the carbon content
I Was Just Wondering This The Day Before You Posted This
Just curious... What type of coal do you use? (Size, source, etc.) Ever tried wood charcoal? I’ve always wanted to but haven’t got my hands on any yet.
I believe there are some Japanese forging videos where they use wood charcoal and theres a video about how to make the right kind at home too
I have used both coal and charcoal. Charcoal sparks more, burns cleaner, and creates more ash while costing a bit more especially once you factor in how much faster it burns. Both are good fuels so long as you are using good quality coal or lump charcoal.
Not to be a knit picker but from what I was told by a trade blacksmith is that the tapping of a hammer on the anvil is to both remove scale from the hammer surface and to reposition your hold on it. Also I KNOW that the sound of it has been over used in movies, t.v. shows of Wich has conjured in the mind of the stereotypical "Blacksmith's is supposed to sound like". Witch also makes me wonder if it is simply because of the Handel shape being incorrect due to orientation problems... Or as I was slightly eluding to thieatracity~ s.p. to attract attention? What my thougt of the matter thus far is if it is not any of the valid engineering aspect of it. or is just wasted where and tear on your beloved equipment? Your thoughts and points are quite welcome. Thank you.. Carl
Carl Manx black bear forge has a good video on this question. Forge enough you’ll find yourself doin it naturally to Rest and keep up the rhythm while you evaluate where to hit next. Also to reorient the hammer. You won’t see it much while they’re roughing something quick but you’ll see a lot more of it putting on the finishing touches
There’s also some use for directing a striker.
@@JacobvsRex
Cool bud thank you for your reply! 🙂
Actually here is the best video I’ve seen explaining it, especially the drumming part: th-cam.com/video/K8Mown8IY40/w-d-xo.html
What if I have a tool with rust on it, could I put it in the forge to remove the rust? And, of course, re-harden and re-temper the tool after the fact
Fire of Jagz beter use cleaning vinegar. Let it soak overnight.
Use a wire brush, or abrasive wool.
hey roy i have found an anvil of 180 kg or 400 pounds for 1700 dollars im thinking ots a great deal as this guy deals with recycling metals of all sorts what do you think
grayem pepper, maybe you could talk him down with this info. You can get a 400lb new TFS anvil for $1900, or a 300lb for $1500. At $4+ per pound the surface and shape be exactly what you want. Maybe you can talk him down or find yourself a nicer deal elsewhere.
+grayem pepper hey there bud I think I'm going to go with Mark s on this one. Unless the Anvil that you are looking at is in Supreme condition that price seems a little high. And then again I do not know what anvils go for usually in Australia or how easy they are to come by so you may be right this may be an excellent deal to get a hold of. Those are really the two key factors the quality of the Anvil and your accessibility to be able to get an anvil like it. 3rd possible thought process if you're doing it for a business how long will it take you to recoup the cost of this Anvil I.E. will it make you money. I feel very honored that you would ask me my opinion in my advice God bless you my friend
grayem.. I have to agree with the others here as well. I ended up buying a brand new anvil that is everything I wanted, and could not find anything used that wasn't beatenup and over priced.
shadowcastre in northern Ireland every anvil is listed for £300 no matter the size 😂
Thats double what you should be paying, just be patient, gumtree is a good way to find a reasonably priced anvil in Aus, anvils on ebay seem very expensive lately keep your eyes open and something better will come along
Thank you and God bless you for your help and hard work!📖✝
what if i melt the rusty metal first?
cooling it down..
and start to forging it again .
noobs question here..
im never seen anyone doing it so..
candilo melting to liquid? Would take a serious forge. If you could melt it to liquid it would work because the rust would come off as slag i assume
@@alba7509 But then youd just have grey or white iron, both of which are pretty useless.
Can you turn rust back into iron?
why dont you acid pickle the rusty metal first? use coca cola
Edward Vassell
Wastes time, takes a wile to do it. He has to make production work
👍
That’s a sweet hand crank for increasing oxygen!
I just worry about Pitts and getting inclusions
😂