How To Service A Motorcycle Hydraulic Clutch | MC Garage
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2019
- Hydraulic motorcycle clutches are great compared to a traditional cable-actuated setup. They have a light pull, you don’t have to adjust them, and they are more consistent feeling than some cable versions. With all that awesomeness comes a little bit of care beyond the lubing and slack adjustment required from a cable setup. This time on MC Garage we talk about changing the fluid in your hydraulic clutch.
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How Does A Hydraulic Motorcycle Clutch Work?
Just like the braking components on a modern motorcycle, a hydraulic clutch uses pressure applied by a lever through a piston in the master cylinder to transfer that force to the slave cylinder. It pushes its piston out (just like on your brake calipers) to actuate the pushrod. That moves the pressure plate, releasing the force holding the fiber and steel plates together, thereby uncoupling the transmission from the crankshaft.
Over time, you may notice that the actuation of the clutch may feel less consistent or notchy. The fluid could get an air bubble trapped somewhere in the line, but also hydraulic fluid will absorb water from the air, which will eventually lead to corrosion. When this happens the fluid becomes murky or discolored. Or it may be the time for a refresh according to your manual. Either way, we are going to change it.
If you’ve ever flushed brake fluid, then you are well equipped to do this. The method is very much the same.
What Do I Need To Flush A Hydraulic Clutch?
To complete this job you’re going to need the proper fluid. Most systems use the same fluid as the brakes: DOT 4, 5, or 5.1. But some use straight mineral oil, usually Magura systems. Once you have your oil, you just need a clear tube, a catch bottle, an 8mm wrench for the bleed nipple, a syringe or another method to suck the fluid out of the reservoir, and whatever tools it may take to remove the cover or cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
How To Bleed The Hydraulic Clutch?
Pop the top on the reservoir, making sure you lay out rags to protect the paint if you have any drips. Check out the rubber diaphragm. Check it over for any tears, pinholes, or cracks. Give it a good wipe-down with a paper towel; rags leave fiber and fuzz. Do not use brake cleaner or contact cleaner on this; those chemicals will make the rubber swell or distort and it won’t seal properly when you install it.
Next, suck the majority of the oil fluid from the reservoir. Then fill it up with the new fluid that you will be pushing through the system to flush out the old. You want to use a new bottle, as hydraulic fluid can absorb water over time, whether that’s in the system on your bike or in the bottle on the shelf. Fresh is best. As we move the old fluid down and out through the lines, you want to make sure the level of the fluid in the reservoir doesn’t drop so low you suck air. Or you’ll be back to square one.
At the slave cylinder, put your wrench over the nipple and attach the clear hose. The tube should reach the bottle of the catch bottle; I like to make a hole in the cap to hold the tube and keep it in place. Having some fluid at the bottom and covering the tube helps to keep air from traveling up and back into the system.
Just like bleeding your brakes, squeeze the lever and then loosen the nipple just enough for the fluid to come out. Do not release the lever until you close the nipple. You won’t have the firm and then soft lever like on a brake system to remind you that you are pushing fluid through the system, so it’s easier to forget to keep the lever in until the bleeder is closed. Repeat the squeeze, crack, close, and release until the fluid runs clean. And keep your eye on that fluid level!
After the fluid is clear, replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap. Clean up. Give the lever a few squeezes, fire up the bike, and check the operation. That’s it!
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Thanks to Maxima Racing Oils
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Videography: Ryan Schutlz
Edit: Bert Beltran
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Big fan of MC Garage. Encouraging people to do their own maintenance is a good thing!
No its not good for the economy
@@ntrhopi Maybe for you. Great mind can easily do it, unlike your mind. Are you eat the food with someone else hand?🗿🗿
Great vid! You all should pick up a project bike and make videos of all the tasks you have to do in order to get it back on the road. I would watch every second of that
Ask and you shall receive 😂
Thank you MC Garage. I was having real trouble getting any pressure in my clutch. The advice to put the end of the bleed hose into the waste fluid fixed me up.
Simple, clean and clear. Great video guys !!
Very well explained and demonstrated
Thank you for a quick and basic explanation.
Thanks for the video, simple and right!
Thanks for another helpful video
Hey thanks for the help! :D
My 650 vstrom doesn't have this but good to learn!
Thanks mate you just Made my day!
Thank you so much! Very informative video 👍
MC garage always comes in handy
I use a brake bleeder system bought at Harbor Freight to keep from having to pump fluid with my hand both for the clutch system and brake system fluid flush. A lot faster and a lot less tiring on the hands.
Worked a dream on my VFR1200..thanks
Nice thank you!!!!
I have a silly question would you say the procedure is the same for a 2013 RC8R? I only ask b/c most of the KTM hydraulic clutch bleeding videos I’ve seen (none were RC8’s) the people are using a syringe and pushing fluid into the reservoir instead of allowing it to flow down and out.
Ok thanks for the video.
Can you use dot 3 instead of dot 4 on the hydraulic clutch
I had a tough time with the clear plastic tube, wouldn't stay on the bleeder nipple. Where do you get yours?
Just wondering is that possible to use hydraulic clutch master cylinder as a hand brake connecting properly to the brake caliper? if not, could you please explain why? For example I built a custom electric tricycle and looking for the front and rear hand brakes master cylinders.
Does it goes the same for the hydraulic brakes?
Sir iam from Philippines can we use hydraulic oil in our hydraulic clutch or just a break fluid ?
Hi I’m in need of some help got a hydraulic clutch on a gas gas 280 and it’s been bleeded up but the pressure in the lever is solid and clutch doesn’t dis engage
Hey I have a Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic that won't shift I ut need fluid a bleed it and still go when it it in gear I reav it up and has no push it my only ride to work please help
I put new plates in my zg1200 (hydraulic clutch) now my lever throw is nearly gone. Still trying to figure it out.
Hello MC Garage, could you explain why some brake or clutch master cylinder had remote fluid reservoir and some integrated, and why typically high end racing bike such as GP bike had integrated reservoir for the rear master cylinder.
Ehh you're talking about radial and axial master cylinder. th-cam.com/video/fWb0B6NYnK0/w-d-xo.html
@@RiloElton no, I know the radial and axial, I saw the video ari was explaing about it, im asking about the brake fluid reservoir
In the spirit of at home maintenance how about doing a series on scan tools for the home mechanic and enthusiast.
The manual on my SMT, which uses a Magura system and therefore mineral oil, says that the system should be reverse bled, i.e. with the fluid introduced down at the slave cylinder. I presume because this would keep the fluid fresher at the bottom.
No. Its because that way makes the air bubbkes you introduce in the system naturally go up with the old fluid...and thus avoid getting sponge feeling due to air trapped
One thing I'm a bit slow to understand, if pulling the lever, holding it, loosen the bleed nipple, let fluid and air out, then crack it back up so no air gets in, why is it necessary to make sure the tube goes to the bottom of a bottle with fluid in it?
Could you not just have the tube running to an empty bottle or bucket?
I was thinking as long as you have the lever still pressed, no air can get back up in the cylinder?
I changed mine now the clutch has no tension and the bike won’t turn over any help ?
May be, this is funny question I am asking you. 'IS IT POSSIBLE TO HAVE BOTH, LIQUID AND OIL COOLED AT SAME BIKE?' And is this a long and durable for long time?
I'm on 6 months with my first hydraulic clutch (dirt) - not sure why cables even exist anymore, hydro=game changer
Agreed. I went back to a cable after years of hydraulic, couldn't stand it. Got rid of the bike.
You can adjust your friction zone with cables, it also easier to modulate or ride your clutch with cables.
Just as an FYI KTM recommends in their service manual to back bleed the system with a syringe.
One question why does magura use mineral oil? Is dot 4 bad for ut and why.. Do i HAVE to get that mineral oil? Or can i just go whit that dot 4?
No! Only Mineral oil. Dot 4 will ruin the system.
@@disekjoumoer Hi, i own a KTM 1290 SA S and this has a Magura system. It says on the cover, use only DOT 4 or 5.1 only. Magura wouldn't put this on the cover if it would damage the system further down. I am aware in some countries you can only use mineral oil. Maybe the restriction is because of this.
A quick update after calling a KTM dealer in the UK. If it says DOT4 you can use it, as at some point the seals etc were changed in the design. Mine is a 2018 model. Regards, Terry
@@terryploppypants2792 Different models have different Magura clutch systems. Some use oil, others brake fluid.
Love the videos but i always back bleed my brakes and clutch, find it much easier
So, if older brake fluid is closed tight, how does it go bad? Or could bottles be built better as to not let air in? My thinking is the bottle is open as long as the brake res is, Thoughts
That is the reason there is a foil seal on brake fluid bottles to guarantee no air can get in. Otherwise the bottles would be built like oil bottles. Once it's open, there is a chance, no matter how slight, that water can be absorbed.
Hi Justin Dawes, but ktm bike is that?
Superduke r
Why is the audio on this video so quiet? Right click on this video and select 'Stats for nerds'. You'll see that TH-cam measures this video as 12 dB too quiet.
Just yesterday I learned that the BMW R1200RT uses mineral oil in the clutch.
Suzuki Intruder 1400 clutches are particularly vexatious to bleed!
Who is this guy?
Joe Rogan's brother.
Forgot about the slave cylinder....
Would arry ever come back? I miss him.
Get over it
@@abelruiz1996 i feel like arry built this channel
@Justin Dawes Haha justin i enjoy you too. You're great 😅 but I'm soooooo used to arry on mc garage.
" light pull " You haven't rode a 90's Ducati 600 ss, or a 2005 Ducati multistrada 1000ds, holy shit those bikes are heavy as shit when it comes to clutch pull
Now imagine them with a cable
@@somedudeona6367 My friends Z800e is pretty much on par with the extreme heavy cluitch pull, it uses a cable, and when its not been lubed for 2-3 months its like you're getting a proper full arm work out haha.
@@ErmaTheKitteh lmao. I decided to watch this video after I got my 82 magna which has a hydraulic clutch lol. I actually just rebuilt it Saturday
In other words, same as brake bleed.
You'll get busted by the PC police for calling it a "slave" cylinder. : )
"motivationally challenged" perhaps?
Put your hands in your pockets !
“I don’t know what to do with my hands” -Ricky Bobby
It's called gesturing, you should look it up.
... said no one ever
He tried once. Couldn't say a word.
I have been supporting this channel since day one, I even embraced the hosts change...but that shirt man... don’t do it again