DIY Assembly of Composite Panels and Aluminum Angle for a Homebuilt Camper
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Boreas Composite Panels sells composite wall systems for DIY camper builders. Watch this video for an overview on setting up the panel wall system for a camper using aluminum angle and Sikaflex-255.
This exoskeleton style allows for flex when off roading while using a simple build process that creates a strong, water-proof shell.
The panel is an XPS foam core with a FRP woven mat skin which makes the material highly durable, well insulated and lightweight at approximately 1.6 lbs per square foot.
Remove wood from your home camper build to eliminate rot or warping.
Panels are available in sizes up to 13' long, and 60" tall with custom sizes as well. Panels are available in raw format or CNC-cut to your design.
Reach out today to learn more about how we can help you bring your camper to life with Boreas Composite Panels!
phone: 720-515-3775
email: sales@boreascp.com
website: www.boreascomp...
facebook: / boreascompositepanels
Instagram: / boreascompositepanels
#diycamper #diybuilders #customcamper - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Make sure to check out our newest video on how to cut composite panels - th-cam.com/video/mYdatjOi5AY/w-d-xo.html
It looks like you have riveted aluminium to steel. Is there not an issue if galvanic corrosion?
Also, you mention elsewhere the foam is porous, is it open or closed cell? If water contacts the foam directly, is it absorbed or unable to penetrate?
is there any reason not to 45 cut the floor and the bottom of the wall panels?
I did not see any adhesive being applied to the joint of the two wall panels. Did I miss it?
Good call
None
@alsnyder1660 look again. SikaFlex was used
@@kevinrusso6849wrong
@@michaelcagle4662you blind? Sikaflex was applied
It's all crepe money.
I love your guys trailers and am happy you’re selling these panels now. I gotta ask though, if you had to panels each with a 45 miter and a 90, hey in the world would you choose the butt joint? I’m guessing the person that cut them for you is facepalming after watching the video.
I was thinking the same thing. The mitered corner would place the rivets much further inboard from the edge of the fiberglass and give the Sika an actual surface to bond to rather than just being pressed onto foam (which has no strength).
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. The Boreas Campers product uses butt joints in its construction process. This requires a larger peice of alum angle to cover the corners. We just posted up another video using a lap joint. The lap joint process will be used in our pre cut and/or pre assebled camper kits. Here is a link th-cam.com/video/mYdatjOi5AY/w-d-xo.html
Doesn’t the adhesive need a standoff of about a mm or so to allow the adhesive to flex and ensure there’s enough left in the joint?
You do not want to fully compress the bonding surfaces and squeeze out your adhesive. With the XPS foam core being porous you are able to keep a tight bond line.
It doesn’t seem there is much bearing surface of the floor panel on the aluminum angle. I’d put the wall panels in first.
Glue and pray....that the sun stays away. Between road wear and heat/UV, what is the expected lifespan of a build when done to top spec?
SO happy to find this product state side. You will be hearing from me.
Great, thank you!
Adhesive is Sikaflex-255. Panels are XPS glassed with woven mat.
Nailed it.
Concerned about de-lamination whether from when I cut out openings, corners, etc or just over time. What do you recommend to re-glue the frp to the foam and do you sell it?
Thats correct you do not want to have exposed edges on the panels. However, the water intrusion needed to cause any type of delamination is infintiley greater than a traditional plywood (stick and tin) camper. When you cut a hole for a door or a window the FRP and XPS foam core will stay bonded together and you won't need to glue any exposed edges. Just make sure the final installation of the door/window is well sealed.
@@boreascompositepanels What sealant do you use/recommend?
Helpful, thanks. Will it be structurally strong enough to support the roof piece resting on the wall panels, or is a wood or metal frame needed to support it?
I saw a video from Australia showing i think 15 people standing on the roof of a similar construction trailer. No frame required is why this construction is so awesome. I build mine with moulded rounded corner construction and no caps, still plenty strong but not for offroad. Great to see a company selling product for the DIY crowd.
@@steveogilvie5203 I would love to see that! I'm trying to figure out how to assemble the roof transition, I wish this video explained it...
@@hellogoodwin i have built 3 so far. I use a removable wooden mold. I won't post a link but I have made lots of videos, just do a search.
@@hellogoodwin Styromax has posted lots of videos too. You might find your answer there .
Thanks Steve!
Cool demo of how your product is built!!
thank you!
So quick rough math with pricing from your site puts a roughly 13’ x 5’ uncut panel over $1100.00?
Yes, that is correct at the $17 per square foot. We do have a select panels sizes available at $10 per square foot
What is the adhesive?
Can you paint your panels?
Curious here, are you saying that can be used as/or in place of a floor? Is it really that strong & has anyone ever seen/heard of
this being used in a "House-Boat"? I'm looking into some things & this caught my eyes so I stopped in to see how good it is?
I know that many pontoon boat manufactures are going to composite decking/floors as opposed to marine plywood, however, I'm not sure what their exact specs are. Using our panels as a floor is not an issue. You do need to have support members at a minium of 18 inches. I also recommend using a secondary finish, such as LVL in high traffic areas.
I like the material & it looks like it's easy to handle. Tough -n- light weight is all good. I'm still researching but I wouldn't
use plywood anyway, not marine or any other b/c it's too heavy. This stuff has some good attributes but do know if can
be covered w/ fiberglass? I'm real new to all of this & I thank you for sharing the info here. I do like it, thanks a lot.
How is the roof attached? Just glue and rivets? Doesn’t sit on the walls?
This is excdlent.
Thank you!
Is the ceiling panel the same?
Yes sir, that is correct.
Where is the thickness listed on the site?
The overall thickness of the panel is 1.78 inches
man thats some heavy duty good stuff!!
Thank you!
awesome....great job!!
Thanks a lot!
Great video!
thanks!
Looks messy with those corner caps
Yeah, I’d have just done a full length piece nice and strong and not visually abrasive. On all four corners, may add 5 lbs and $75.
As efficient as these panels may be, you’d have the ugliest camper out there. Or can this be made with an inner skeleton and capped corners? Cannot make curves, I assume? How do you run wires?
You are able to bend the panels up 20 degrees for a sloped roof or you can cut multiple pieces to add angles. No interior struture is necessary, but yes you can cap the corners if desired for asthetics or additional strength. Small conduit on the exteior of the walls works great for running wire. Check out @boreascampers for an example of this composite panel and aluminum exoskeleton system