Wish I could find more videos like this. I love working on my own guns. I am learning as I go and this video helped me. I am working on a Whitneyville model 1. This video helped a lot even thought its not 100% the same. Thank you!
Hey there, I got myself one of these for a pretty great price, it's still got most of its nickel plating even got the paper box it sold in with the owners "manual" (more like a little postcard to teach you how to load it lol). It's got a name engraved aswell. I'm looking to resell the item for a profit, and I'm wondering where you'd recommend selling this item. It's a real beautiful piece so I'm hoping to get a good deal off it.
What a beautiful little revolver! Thanks for the reveal! What caliber is it? What tool is that which you used to tighten the extractor pin? Where can I find one?
32 S&W, this was the first handgun to use that cartridge. Also known later known as the 32 S&W Short to differentiate it from the 32 S&W Long which came out about 20 years after the short. The real testament to the caliber is that it's still widely produced today. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@twentyfifthdui4717 All true. These pliers as you can see have purpose made jaws to grip ejector/extractor rods, and are non marring. I've seen a number of methods, like you say leather, works great. I've also used neoprene, electrical tape (many, many wraps), and a padded vise. I've even built custom tools. See my S&W Model 10 video (th-cam.com/video/WqmlI3FBvLE/w-d-xo.html). But mostly for unscrewing really stuck ones, because as you say be careful not to over tighten. Thanks for commenting and watching!
That's going to be tough. My go to places are Numrich and Jack First. I checked online, both have parts for the 1 1/2 but no cylinders. You might try calling them. Hope that helps
@@jimhumphrey6806 I truly appreciate the response, i guess I’ll see what comes out of my search. M&P sent me 4 places throughout the US that they know of that could help with the firearms too old for m&p’s company to help repair
Wow, sorry I missed this when you posted it. I disconnected the spring from the hammer stirrup (flexed the spring with needle nose and pushed the stirrup out of the way) and then just forced to the side by flexing it and tapping it with a punch. Not exactly an elegant solution.
Yeah, I drove it out with a punch. Then to get it back in I flexed it with a smooth jawed pliers and tapped it back in with hammer, wasn't easy. I wouldn't recommend it :-)
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Wish I could find more videos like this. I love working on my own guns. I am learning as I go and this video helped me. I am working on a Whitneyville model 1. This video helped a lot even thought its not 100% the same. Thank you!
Be sure to subscribe, I've got 3 or 4 new videos in editing now. Thanks for watching!
nice work , no BS and good camera work .. I like your style .
I like your videos, well done, please do more.
This is very helpful, thank you
Excellent video! I’ll be stripping mine down soon, ty.
Very cool video, thanks for sharing
Hey there, I got myself one of these for a pretty great price, it's still got most of its nickel plating even got the paper box it sold in with the owners "manual" (more like a little postcard to teach you how to load it lol). It's got a name engraved aswell. I'm looking to resell the item for a profit, and I'm wondering where you'd recommend selling this item. It's a real beautiful piece so I'm hoping to get a good deal off it.
What a beautiful little revolver! Thanks for the reveal! What caliber is it? What tool is that which you used to tighten the extractor pin? Where can I find one?
32 S&W, this was the first handgun to use that cartridge. Also known later known as the 32 S&W Short to differentiate it from the 32 S&W Long which came out about 20 years after the short. The real testament to the caliber is that it's still widely produced today. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I got the pliers from Midway USA item number 778428
@@twentyfifthdui4717 All true. These pliers as you can see have purpose made jaws to grip ejector/extractor rods, and are non marring. I've seen a number of methods, like you say leather, works great. I've also used neoprene, electrical tape (many, many wraps), and a padded vise. I've even built custom tools. See my S&W Model 10 video (th-cam.com/video/WqmlI3FBvLE/w-d-xo.html). But mostly for unscrewing really stuck ones, because as you say be careful not to over tighten. Thanks for commenting and watching!
I'm looking for the left side pivot screw and the side plate screw. Would you know where I can locate parts? Thanks in advance
My go to sources are Jack First and Numrich. Doesn't look like Numrich has them in but it's probably worth calling them both.
Any idea where I could buy a new cylinder? Helping a family member fix one up and it’s got a cracked cylinder
That's going to be tough. My go to places are Numrich and Jack First. I checked online, both have parts for the 1 1/2 but no cylinders. You might try calling them. Hope that helps
@@jimhumphrey6806 I truly appreciate the response, i guess I’ll see what comes out of my search. M&P sent me 4 places throughout the US that they know of that could help with the firearms too old for m&p’s company to help repair
Jim
How did you remove the main spring without removing the screw, mine is frozen but still working on it. Any hint would be appreciated
John
Wow, sorry I missed this when you posted it. I disconnected the spring from the hammer stirrup (flexed the spring with needle nose and pushed the stirrup out of the way) and then just forced to the side by flexing it and tapping it with a punch. Not exactly an elegant solution.
Aah, video says " force the spring around it
Yeah, I drove it out with a punch. Then to get it back in I flexed it with a smooth jawed pliers and tapped it back in with hammer, wasn't easy. I wouldn't recommend it :-)