How To Monocouche Render A Wall - Rendering Tutorial - Monocouche Render Scratch Stone Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- In todays rendering tutorial, we will show you How To Monocouche render a wall correctly from start to finish. Not only will we show you how to apply monocouche render, and how to use monocouche render but we will even go into the process of how to scratch monocouche render to get a perfect finish.
Monocouche is a modern through coloured one coat render system that is scratched to achieve a stone effect finish.
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First I would say nice clean tiny job well done it's all a learning curve personally I'll put a tight coat on for my first of the two top coats and then put a thicker coat on this is why you've got some slumping and also put your mesh into your rendaid coat so you don't see the mesh come through when scratching back if you had ruled off your first rend aid you wouldn't have any hollows in the wall just saying
Try putting the mesh in base coat mate, can go thinner with top coat, and also saves you if you do scratch a bit to far etc👍, good clean work lad.
I keep hearing that, I'll try it out. Thanks mate 👍
I scratched an area too thin, is there a tip for touching in those sort of problems.cheers
@@tobyharris2889 do you mean the base coat he had already done the day before? I know they call this one coat render but that seems confusing since there is a base coat over the substrate (scratch coat) and the monocouche is built up in two thin layers.
Any tips welcome!
Hello Ryan, from all Level 2 C&G Plastering Diploma students at Kirklees college. We enjoyed your short Weber monocouche demonstration, hope to see you soon...Malcolm
You are very welcome Malcolm. I hope your learners all got something out of it. I look forward to seeing you again soon. Ryan
Hello mate, I've been in the trade for a long time. Your clean, tidy, very thorough and a brilliant attitude. Don't listen to any haters your a private customers dream. Take care and I hope all goes well
Hi Ben, I appreciate that.
I know that lots of plasterers can be defensive and I understand, it probably frustrating to see someone who is probably less experienced than them putting out videos on what they do everyday.
Thanks 👍
That’s a very poor comment mate.
You have to understand that people will have a different and even “better” way of doing it but that doesn’t mean they are hating. We learn from critics.
@@efmplastering9258 He's a young lad who's just starting out he's slow and abit green but has good attention to detail. He doesn't need macho wankers who can talk the talk but not walk it...constructive criticism is fine but slating the blokes work is bullshit. We've all been there (young) and most of the time we learn by are mistakes.
Nice work old sport. I’ve been internally skimming for a long time but only occasionally externally. I watched this because it just appeared while I was researching white renders, I learnt a lot from it and some of the other comments. My customer wants me to white render the Mediterranean style seating area in her garden. Thanks for posting and your honest minimal commentary. Smashing 🤙🏽
Thanks allot! Yeah there's some wisdom in these comments probably more than in the video! Good luck with your project 👍
I had to turn the sound off halfway through, that background music was doing my head in.
Good video , I have a DEWALT that k rend killed the battery , were under warranty so I got a replacement, the rend over works the batteries the same as drywall would only advise for skim
Nice finish!
I enjoy doing mono but also have the same frustrations with it with regards to sagging when putting it on by hand. I now just do the final render coat in just one pass but knock it up thick, it cuts the risk of sagging and less chance of air bubbles behind. Also good for speeding up setting times on colder days.
Harder on the arms but worth it every time 👍
Thanks, yeah it's a bit of a pain at times. Do you use 10mm or 15mm beads? Since this video I've started rendaiding first then 10mm beads. It seem to eliminate sagging. The first pass is really thin to!
@@ryanseeley i use 10mm angle beads and stop beads but use 15mm bellcasts. And yea doing the base coat first is the best especially for rough backgrounds. I like watching your videos, keep them up!
So good ☺️☺️☺️☺️ love you ❣️❣️❣️
Great bit of rendering though there is hardly any overhang drip detail on the window sill, so expect the render in the area underneath to become discoloured and require more maintenance than would otherwise be required. Not the renderer’s fault as the window was already in situ.
So if doing a new build would it be best to have the windows extruding from the blockwork?
@@TheDaztheraz No, these will more than likely have a set back of at least 20mm-30mm depending on the architect’s requirements. But the sill overhang would need to be sufficient. At least a 40mm overhang is best. I am in the trade and work on both new and existing builds.
Can anyone tell me best way to get air bubbles out of it please he's on the 3rd coat started bubbling in places
I find personally that on the first coat of the monocouche not to put on alot but to trowel a thin ish coat quite firmly to ensure no air pockets are created.. then I find I can load up without sagging or air bubbles.. I also put the mesh in the rend aid coat after first putting up the beads.. I wouldn't like to be putting it in the finish layer seems like extra work when concentrating on the top coat.. each to their own..hes got a nice finish anyway so respect for that.. hope this helps?
Try pulling your mesh up from the floor to the top then bed it in to the wall to hold it then run your blade along the bottom beads to get a pukka fit of mesh an the lines on the side of the mesh are you over lap lines
can you use monocouche as a base coat then put the mesh and scratch then put on your top coat?
Hi is the darker grey the primer , the lighter grey the Webber monocoque thank you
hi there, done the 2 coat render on an outside wall, but have seen once scratch coat done, the mesh has come through in areas. any tips to patch up please would be appreciated.....
great video, love that info the comes with it
nice mate. any pointers on monoing over painted sand cement render? do i need to base coat and mesh? prime? mono and mesh? etc. also im going to be doing it in cold weather. would i leave it till next day to i bar?
Brilliant video mate , saved to favourites , could you please tell me is that weberpral M your using i am assuming the normal weber cannot be scraped and has a more cement smooth texture .
Yes Weberpral M, that's what I'm using, Weber OCR is what leaves a smooth sand and cement style finish.
Hi pal, is this as easy to use as sand and cement for a beginner? I like the quick turn around with the applications brian👍
Excellent job ! thank you for the tutorial
No worries, thanks!
I'm struggling with using the I beam in smaller areas, i.e small brick quoin corners and a small section of blockwork then another brick quoin corner. Can I use a float to flatter/take high spots out?
You video has been my tutor lately, loved it! Looks so effortless when you do it.
Felt confident to do a small project for myself and decided to render my porch.
I just done one wall today and applied too mutch of render at the bottom and it went sagging could not touch it as i was afraid it will fall off. Im not too sure if it Is going to be ok when I scratch it tomorrow. Would appreciate advise on that issue if you get to red this.
I imagine it will be fine, just scratch as normal. It may require a fair bit of effort to scratch it back if it's dry, but just keep working it and it should be fine. 👍
@@ryanseeley
Thanks for reply mate! Scratched it down and few cracks appeared where render had sagged, however put some scraped off render on it and it looks just fine, hope it will stay there. Took me about about 3 hours to scrape it🙂
Looking forward learning some more skils from you. Stuff you do helps a lot, keep it up.
Very nice finish.
Thanks 👍
Top finish
Did you put the beads over the base coat or put the beads on first?
Beautiful, very nice and a great finish. Thank you
Hi did you add the beads before or after base coat? 👍
If you have rough brick work what would you use to dub it out forward??
I just used rendaid but that only goes on quite thin. I suppose you could just use s & c or a coat of OCR first.
Is this ok for the scratcher? Refina Render Scraper with 8mm Sharp Teeth 10" - 281310. Thanks
Those ear protectors do all plasterers have to wear them to stop you getting plaster in your ears , I heard if you get it in your ears it can block them up is it true
They are actually headphones that keep me entertained and able to answer the phone without stopping working. Also doubles up to keep my ears safe because yes if plaster gets in your ears you can end up with blockage that requires a tiny pick axe to relieve!
@@ryanseeley I was only asking a question no need to be sarcastic
Just a joke ✌️I never got plaster in my ears but I guess it could happen
Well you might so keep your protection on them bad boys
You need something to stop the plaster falling in your nose
See have this in Spain called monacapa it comes in 57 different colours they also do a fine one for internal use
if it starts slumping or you get a really wet patch you can cast a little of the dry powder over that area. it'll suck out the excess water and the excess muck just gets scraped off on the finishing.
What is the name of the tool he is using to finish the wall?
What length serated edge straight edge you using mate ?
And isit a 8mm scratcher ?
Hi, the scratcher is an 8mm refina scratcher. And the straight edge is 1200 i think. 👍
How long do you get to put it on before it starts setting.
Usually about 90 mins I would estimate 👍
Thanks mate
Mesh was done very badly l will not slow it to be cut in small bits. Not a good way to do it.
Can you use Webber as your scratch coat ?
Lovely work!
Did you prime brick work before rendaid
What under coat/ scratch coat would you recommend when using this Product on external concrete blocks?
Thanks
You can use sand and cement undercoat or Weber basecoat
I don’t get why you need a serrated straight edge to highlight any low or dipped areas because a normal straight edge shows those issues?
While that is true, a serrated straight edge also allows any trapped air pockets to be released from behind the render
@@ryanseeley ahh i see so it is best practice to use one with these through colour renders?
Nice job bud
Thanks 👍
Didn’t think mesh was needed for the Weber OCR.
can you render on to Knauf Windliner ?
you are obviously putting on too much render if its sagging. I think this is because you put the beads on top of the first coat rather than first thing which leaves you with a substantial amount of material to bring out. But thats the process for k rend and ive not used Monocouche
Good job bud 👌
Thanks mate
I thought the point of monocuche, was you only needed to apply one coat? But you did two layers?
Yeah it's technically 1 coat in 2 passes
looks perfect, I noticed a lot of European homes have this finish
Thanks, yes it comes from Europe I believe
yeah man, mint work. its all about 10mm beads for me though.
Thanks mate. I've never used the 10mm beads for mono as I hear you can get the bricks/blocks ghosting through. Have you not had this issues?
@@ryanseeley I just use k-rend scratch back at 10mm and thin coat render at 6mm. Ive seen ghosting before, I think that only happens when ppl don't use a base coat and try one coat it. Never had it myself.
Good to see someone else grafting like a mo fo!! chase that money pal!!!
Put your mesh into the rendaid coat buddy as it’s a risk of showing through if you scratch a little far back on the top coat 👍nice work for hand application though 👊
Thanks mate, I've heard of that before but was worried that it might void the warranty. I'll gigve that a go
@@ryanseeley it’s just less risky with the mesh being pink ! I do this every day with a machine and still scratch too much every now and then ! We are only human! Nice work again though 👊
Thanks for the advice!
what colour did you use?
This colour is Chalk
How do you achieve a plain face finish with this material or is it not adaptable enough
Is that a sand and cement undercoat?
No, it's actually a product called rendaid, it's made by Weber and it's a really good base for Monocouche.
Holy crap what an ordeal to install but that looks amazing. All the plaster here in the states looks pretty marginal and most textures just seem to be used for hiding mistakes and laziness.
Thanks! Yeah it can be a right pain but it does look pretty great when it's done!
Do you work in South Wales UK
Technical we would be it would be quite a way out of our usual area, so it would really depend on the job.
Nice work but hallow ring in left corner always fucks a nice job 👍
Would love to know a rough price on something this size as have something of similar size that needs doing, If I can find someone who is actually interested in a small job.. looks really good 👍
Thanks, if you let me know roughly where you live (be vague) I can let you know if you are within our area. Thanks
@@ryanseeley I'm in Gloucester
@@waynejones5039 prob about £600 all in, days work
Back between the 70's / 80's I went to college for 5 years to learn plastering, advanced plastering and floor laying (when collage wasn't a crash course lol :) also, my late father (god rest him), had one of (if not Thee), biggest plastering and granolithic floor companies in the midlands. It's really interesting seeing all the new methods and new materials used today. I have to say though and Please don't worry, I'm honestly 'NOT' criticising, some of the methods seem very long winded. One in particular, No modern day plasterers seem to use a 'Spot & Stand' ? I'm pretty sure, back in the day, all that bending down scraping stuff out of a bucket would have drove me absolutely *_'NUTS' !_* But hey, it's a European influence I guess. If I told you how fast me & my old mate (with no Labourer), used to do 4 bedroomed houses + a double garage ceiling, using all the old methods you probably wouldn't believe me (Never got called back 'Once' for rough work either :) Anyhow, you made a *Cracking Job* of that. VERY Impressive work :)
Thanks 👍 to be honest the modern plasters and renders are very durable and lightweight and that seems to be their main benefit. However you are correct about spot boards. Most site plasterers do use spot boards but when it's just a single guy doing smaller areas the effort to empty the tub is more than its worth. Thanks for your comment
@@ryanseeley What did make me smile was when you used that "I~Bar" I used a 5ft length of that *"Over 30 years ago"* lol Not that it was a Plastering tool. In fact it wasn't Any form of 'Tool' I simply found it laying around at the back of an engineering factory and I thought, eye eye, that'll come in handy as a straight edge... I used it like it was a 5ft Darby :) then I lost it on a job... Now I find myself wondering : _'Did someone find it then patented it as a 'Plastering tool'... :)_ I may have missed the boat there...
hacerlo bien en el mankoush
What colour rendor is this pal
It's chalk mate. Weberpral M chalk
Is the base coat from Webber too?
Yes it's Weber rendaid
@@ryanseeley thanks. Nice job😀
Nice but you need to put it on in bands across. Otherwise you will get ghost lines. Do t put more on top of somewhere where u may of missed. You’ve gotta do it in one shot really
How long can you leave the base coat before applying the topcoat. Or is there no rush.
The base coat that is already on at the start of this video needs at least 2 days to dry. The first coat of render I applied needs to be topped within about an hour of application
Nice job mate , this type of render has really taken off in the uk , looks so much better than the old methods and will stand the test of time and the great British weather lol 👍
Also can I mention that serrated rule for me just creates more work you can use a speed skim save you a lot more time because you're creating more lines in the wall that you have to then flatten in with your spatula when if you was using a speed skiM you wouldn't need the spatula or the straight edge only would save you a lot of time remember you're scratching it back anyway so so you're gonna have to leave it slightly proud
Thanks for the advice 👍 mono isn't our speciality obviously but we can achieve a reasonable finish while we learn. We do price accordingly to.
Thanks also for helping out with the less generous comments. appreciated
@@ryanseeley I think the serrated rule helps to see where you have low spots better. A speed skim (god bless them) will just show flat on flat if you know what I mean 👍
You cannot replace the serrated straight edge with a flat speed skim definitely not.
@@charlesthornborrow9550 I disagree I use a speed skim 600 mil on plenty of monor proof walls and you get a really good finish you're scratching this back remember so you're leaving it slightly proud anyway.. And your scratch back is kind of like floating a wall.. I must admit when I first started I did make one mistake by putting two coats on and one coat came through and it looked patchy best to put a thick coat on and use that that's why it's called mono which means one I think lol.. never used a serrated edge I just don't see the point in making loads of lines then just a flat them in
I like to give my customers the option of outdoor lighting and like to be able to drive past a job at night and not be embarrassed. All I can say is you must be very very good to get walls flat and I mean flat right across full panels with anything 600mm long. Fair play to you
I helped a friend do some monocouche, only familiar with s+c,and after about 5mins of applying it wouldn't blend into its self ,so where you applied the top part of wall,as you then applied bottom section wouldn't blend into top part properly, and couldn't rule off.Not sure if it could of been mixed wrong. Any ideas?
Possible mixing was a little stiff, or maybe the 2 mixes were mixed at a different consistency? I alway measure the water out with Monocouche and make sure each mix is the same ratio (water to powder). You can add a retarder to it to give it more time also if it was drying to fast
@@ryanseeley thanks for reply, I marked out gauging buckets for labourer so it was easy for him.i was told but someone who does it all the time that you get about 20 minutes before it pricks up and won't blend in properly, but this was more like 5 minutes so you couldn't tidy it up and rule it , like you did,as it would pull and kind of tear a bit.
The wall was sucking the moisture out of the Mono too quickly. Wet your wall or use pva
@@Miguel.Garcia thanks for your reply, it wasn't because of suction, we used Rendaid on the substrate.
I'm positive the guy talking is jon richardson of 8out of 10 cats 🤣
I only do traditional render but have had a go at pral-m and k-rend.. Whilst i was happy with the results i found the gear awful to use compared to sand amd cement... Its has no body and doesn't support his own weight..
Most of these modern renders are very lightweight don't feel anyway near as substantial. That said the maintenance is much lower than S&C, but I think if you can work with S&C you are probably much better off.
get some bigger buckets ,mix 4 at a time
Cheers for the tip!
Salam
love your work but hated that music 😫...... nice job👍
👍🤝♥️🥰
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 2 coats??????? you know what MONOCOOSHE actually stands for right..?????? single cost render
Why do you keep saying so at the start of your sentences ?
Why copy Americans ?
We have our own identity , it’s such a bad habit
Had to turn the sound off
Nice job though
Wow I didn't actually notice that. It's c tad annoying now you've pointed it out.
That said it's not an Americanism. It's old English, origin information below.
Old English swa, swæ (adv., conj., pron.) ... As a word confirming a previous statement, late Old English; also from late Old English as an intensive in an affirmative clause (such as so very "exceedingly, extremely"). As an "introductory particle" [OED] from 1590s. Used to add emphasis or contradict a negative from 1913.
Get a grip gary he can say what the fuck he wants
Such a weird comment lol
Perfect example of an internal skimmer trying external renders. Rough as a badgers arse with no experience of using a rule. Why was it slumping your basecoat shouldn't have hollows. Feel bad for paying customers thinking they're getting pros when they're getting have a go's.
That was a bit harsh we all put it on for the first time... It's a little bit of a learning curve and I'm sure the outcome is really good why don't you keep your mouth shut and your fingers in your pocket before you come out with a pratty comment
Bellend
Get a life.
Bet you're from Yorkshire
Is Webber easyer than k rend?
I don't know to be honest, I've never actually used k rend but from what I heard they are almost identical products. I like Weber simply because it's what I was taught to use.
@@ryanseeley fair dooz
How did you scratch the base coat? With the Weberend Aid that you used, you should stipple the render using a burn hole roller?
Decent work keep going...
Thanks John 👍
Thanks Bud. There's a few snots to the window and to the soffit. How easy is this stuff to remove from these places after you walk away with your arms burning from a hard day scraping, etc.?? thanks in advance.
Excellent job
Well done
Hello my friend, it is a good job. I also work in this field. I am from Morocco. I hope to find a job like this in your country.
See you do a 100 mtr gable