Liam buddy, I cannot thank you 🙏 enough for everything you do and you have done for all of us. Two months ago I started all the work on a 4x3m garden room, in my spare time, this afternoon I will glue the rubber to the OSB3. I’ve learned soooo much, thank you for the everything. I’ve also chosen to dig about 20cm so I can have normal headroom inside, it looks great already and the bifold doors are not even in yet. It’s hard work but it’s definitely worth it. We are expecting an another baby and the garden room will be a must, as I need to move with the office there. I’ve bought the build pack a while ago but in the meantime I’ve changed my mind on the size, yet I do not regret at all supporting your business, because what you have done for all of us is remarkable. As they say, the devil is in the details and those details you are more than happy to provide them. Thank you so much once again ! I hope to have the garden room completely finished before Christmas. Bless you
Cheers for showing us how to get the same outcome using different methods Liam . Great channel , can’t imagine how much time you are putting in on editing these vids . Appreciated
Id slap a load of timber preservative round all the cuts and wherever you drill a hole as well as paint the shoes and square plates with a metal primer/ preserver paint, belt and braces.
If you start by ripping down a sheet for the floor boards then you have a matching tung / groove you can use on the other side / end of the floor and you will have a continuous tung and groove on all joints on the floor boards. 👍
I can't get my head around this, we had a 6" rip missing, if I cut off a 6" rip at the beginning ill then have a 12" rip missing 🤷🏻♂️or am I missing something
@@thegardenroomguru If you rip say 12" off the starting board then you will have a 90° cut side to start off with and a tongue, the 12" you rip off will now also have a 90° side and a groove. You put the groove one of them aside and use the tongue one as a starter board. When you get to the other side you will now have a a tongue on the deck and the 12" strip with a grove to finish off the deck. You do the same with the ends. 🙂 If you want to be really fancy you work out how much wider the last board is and split that number in half and that's the width of your starter board. 👍
@@thegardenroomguru If each board is 2' wide and you need to cover 5' then you will end up with 1' left. Instead of having that 1' on the last side of the deck you split a board at say 6" and put that down as a starter with a cut edge and say a tongue. You then use another board to get you to 2'6", then another board to get you to 4'6" with a tongue. Bow you pick up that 18" you cut off the first board and use it's grove to match the tongue on the last full board and trim off the 12” you got too much as you only needed 5' and not 6'. If you start with a full board then you will have a groove on the outside, but if you shift everything over 6" you will have a cut edge as start and as end without having to fill in a cut edge against a tongue as you 'wasted' a matching groove at the starting side of the deck. You still need to have enough square footage obviously but you don't have to worry about unsupported edges as you use the starting offcut to match the last full board. It doesn't matter where the joins are as long as they are fully supported and you can make sure that happens by shifting the joins so you don't use a full board as a starter.
Liam on a personal note did you ever work for hearts Shopfitters in the 80s or clearbray or jaguar Shopfiters in the 90s as you seem familiar to me, hope you don’t mind me asking.
When you put the first sheet of flooring on do you start with the grooved edges of the board in the corner and also overhang the joists by a few mm to allow for the shoes?
Would it be easier to put the first pile 100mm in from corner to avoid clashing with the shoes and if there's room dropping the middle beam so the 4×2s go over the top of it
@@thegardenroomguru you nail them in the top of the joist, with no nails on the top and only on the side would it effect the efficiency of the hanger. Hope that explains my question better.
@gerard_3864 yeah I get what you mean, if it was a new build house they’d want every hole nailing mate, I get it can’t go no where once trapped under the floor though, but I still would always nail the top tbh
Hi Liam, sometime was asking about maximum heights on the rods of they were building on a slope, think they were looking at one bit being 600mm out of ground Thanks 👍
you can mate, but its not just a case of digging the area down, you'll want a min of 600 around the building and then the front would be lower than the existing ground, + there's a lot of earth and labour involved, don't get me wrong, we have done this on numerous occasions, cost and the fact I'm too old to be digging like that play a big factor now😬
@@thegardenroomguru I'm not exactly happy, just thought it was funny that's all. I love the concept and think it is a great idea to help the "less skilled" people out there build their own garden room and probably save them a fortune at the same time..... However, I think if you are giving advice to your 93k subscribers, "who all put their trust in these tutorials", your advice has to be 100% correct! (Not far off 100% by the way) 😉 People who decide to go for it and follow your lead will spend thousands of pounds building their garden room. If it's not designed and built right it will be a complete waste of time and a waste of money. I am not getting at you personally (I think your channel is great). I've just seen too many companies selling 10-20k, "luxurious" garden rooms, offices, gyms, etc, to customers who think they are Amazing..... When actually all they're getting for their 20k is a "Glorified Shed" that won't last them 5 Years!! As I said before, nothing personal here, just think it's a problem in general. Keep up the good work👍
passive aggressive comment and you know this. My garden rooms will out last anyone who builds them to my standard. It's not rocket science and what I think you need to accept is that maybe you don't actually know what you are talking about. Ive been building for around a decade now and guess what? they are still going strong. So although I appreciate that you say you like my channel, I think we both know thats not true. You keep liking, I'll keep giving sound advice and saving people money. It's so easy to sit there bitching about other peoples channels when you have no content your self to prove me wrong or contradict anything I do. A shed and a garden room are two completely different things, educate yourself before you type.
@@belayvisual6633 as long as the frame is square and PIR boards cut square and tight there is no need for foam !!? ... big gap then ye fill with foam... this just shows how well this base has been built (no gaps).
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Spending every spare minute I have building my own garden room and then watching Liam build another one 😅
I hope this guy makes it big time, He really does deserve it. I wish you all the best of luck in whatever you do 😀👍
Thank you
I must have watched you do this 20 times, but I still enjoy it, thanks!
Liam buddy, I cannot thank you 🙏 enough for everything you do and you have done for all of us.
Two months ago I started all the work on a 4x3m garden room, in my spare time, this afternoon I will glue the rubber to the OSB3.
I’ve learned soooo much, thank you for the everything.
I’ve also chosen to dig about 20cm so I can have normal headroom inside, it looks great already and the bifold doors are not even in yet.
It’s hard work but it’s definitely worth it. We are expecting an another baby and the garden room will be a must, as I need to move with the office there.
I’ve bought the build pack a while ago but in the meantime I’ve changed my mind on the size, yet I do not regret at all supporting your business, because what you have done for all of us is remarkable.
As they say, the devil is in the details and those details you are more than happy to provide them.
Thank you so much once again !
I hope to have the garden room completely finished before Christmas.
Bless you
Thank you for this mate, appreciate you taking the time out to write this , good luck with the baby and hope you all have a perfect Xmas
Ah this takes me back to last summer when I bungling through my build
Always get new handsaw for every job Liam. Or invest in electric chainsaw lol. Great to see you back at it.
Cheers for showing us how to get the same outcome using different methods Liam . Great channel , can’t imagine how much time you are putting in on editing these vids . Appreciated
its having my life mate, but its part of a new venture and we will be building the identical build in our unit out of completely different materials
Chinese, beer, and a build pack vid. 😊
Hard work Liam sawing that 4x3 had me in stitches watching you. 🤣
Good morning Liam good video see you on the walls in the next video
Legend, love your videos..👏👏
Fantastic video Liam, John and Davey. Appreciate the in depth information you provide to us all. Look forward to Day 3.
Top job solid floor. Great to see you back on a garden room build
Love this videos back on guys great work
Great vid as always Liam… enjoyed watching the process unfold 👍
Id slap a load of timber preservative round all the cuts and wherever you drill a hole as well as paint the shoes and square plates with a metal primer/ preserver paint, belt and braces.
Would be good for you to add the costs at the end of each video like you did on the first one so we know roughly how much to get to certain stages
If you start by ripping down a sheet for the floor boards then you have a matching tung / groove you can use on the other side / end of the floor and you will have a continuous tung and groove on all joints on the floor boards. 👍
I can't get my head around this, we had a 6" rip missing, if I cut off a 6" rip at the beginning ill then have a 12" rip missing 🤷🏻♂️or am I missing something
@@thegardenroomguru If you rip say 12" off the starting board then you will have a 90° cut side to start off with and a tongue, the 12" you rip off will now also have a 90° side and a groove. You put the groove one of them aside and use the tongue one as a starter board.
When you get to the other side you will now have a a tongue on the deck and the 12" strip with a grove to finish off the deck. You do the same with the ends. 🙂
If you want to be really fancy you work out how much wider the last board is and split that number in half and that's the width of your starter board. 👍
it still doesn't work
@@thegardenroomguru If each board is 2' wide and you need to cover 5' then you will end up with 1' left. Instead of having that 1' on the last side of the deck you split a board at say 6" and put that down as a starter with a cut edge and say a tongue. You then use another board to get you to 2'6", then another board to get you to 4'6" with a tongue. Bow you pick up that 18" you cut off the first board and use it's grove to match the tongue on the last full board and trim off the 12” you got too much as you only needed 5' and not 6'.
If you start with a full board then you will have a groove on the outside, but if you shift everything over 6" you will have a cut edge as start and as end without having to fill in a cut edge against a tongue as you 'wasted' a matching groove at the starting side of the deck.
You still need to have enough square footage obviously but you don't have to worry about unsupported edges as you use the starting offcut to match the last full board.
It doesn't matter where the joins are as long as they are fully supported and you can make sure that happens by shifting the joins so you don't use a full board as a starter.
Good Interesting informative content, keep it up guys. 👍
Is the sunshine in the buildpack😊
great thank you
16.30 mins , pencil behind your ear Liam 😂😂😂😂
told John today, I'm asking for a pencil with one behind my ear🤦🏻♂️
John has put some timber on 😂
Very nice too watch 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
nice vid keep it up
I seen someone else use a table saw to cut the insulation looked super fast.
@@ThomasJoe.. you’d need extraction and have to flip it as you wouldn’t get 100mm depth on a pass
Could you add a little soil in one area to raise the highest point? Gardens levels fluctuate a lot and only the latest high point makes sense.
@@stevenbelcher5658 you’d need to make it look like it was always that way as the building inspector would be on you mate
Would it not be easier putting 250 screws to hold joists in place instead of joist hangers? Or is this a cost / strength issue?
strength firstly mate, then cost, they are not cheap
Any plans to do a special offer on the build pack like the BH weekend a few weeks back?
not at the moment mate
Liam on a personal note did you ever work for hearts Shopfitters in the 80s or clearbray or jaguar Shopfiters in the 90s as you seem familiar to me, hope you don’t mind me asking.
no mate, 80's still at school
Nice tramp stamp Liam 😮😂
🤷🏻♂️eyes off the prize fella, I'm taken 😉
When you put the first sheet of flooring on do you start with the grooved edges of the board in the corner and also overhang the joists by a few mm to allow for the shoes?
yes and no mate, started with grooved edge but kept in line with base timbers, todays video will show it for you
@@thegardenroomguru thanks - I’ll take a look at today’s video. Keep up the good work!
Would it be easier to put the first pile 100mm in from corner to avoid clashing with the shoes and if there's room dropping the middle beam so the 4×2s go over the top of it
Corner piles want to be 200 away from corners mate, it’s no issue, just a notch and 2 screws
Question Liam why don't you cut the top off of the joist hangers instead off folding, would it make any difference to the strength ???
@@gerard_3864 effect strength mate
@@thegardenroomguru you nail them in the top of the joist, with no nails on the top and only on the side would it effect the efficiency of the hanger. Hope that explains my question better.
@gerard_3864 yeah I get what you mean, if it was a new build house they’d want every hole nailing mate, I get it can’t go no where once trapped under the floor though, but I still would always nail the top tbh
Hi Liam, sometime was asking about maximum heights on the rods of they were building on a slope, think they were looking at one bit being 600mm out of ground
Thanks 👍
A couple maybe as long as the others are well in
Can you not dig down level from high point to create higher ceiling?
you can mate, but its not just a case of digging the area down, you'll want a min of 600 around the building and then the front would be lower than the existing ground, + there's a lot of earth and labour involved, don't get me wrong, we have done this on numerous occasions, cost and the fact I'm too old to be digging like that play a big factor now😬
@@thegardenroomgurumy garden slopes down so I must have a big advantage for digging a little?
And would you build a small retaining wall?
@@thegardenroomguruwas wanting to build a golf sim room so require the extra height
He sounds like he's out of breath because he works hard
Better to use super glue on single nuts?
No 😂
I'd put epoxy on them
First comment 🎉
That’s my house
It certainly is 😊
Where is Jenny
@@theetheeyog9878 no idea
And that’s why Milwaukee is garbage. 😂
@@MrAidanfleming John wouldn’t agree 😂
COMEDY 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
@@timbramm4650 glad you’re happy
@@thegardenroomguru I'm not exactly happy, just thought it was funny that's all. I love the concept and think it is a great idea to help the "less skilled" people out there build their own garden room and probably save them a fortune at the same time..... However, I think if you are giving advice to your 93k subscribers, "who all put their trust in these tutorials", your advice has to be 100% correct! (Not far off 100% by the way) 😉
People who decide to go for it and follow your lead will spend thousands of pounds building their garden room. If it's not designed and built right it will be a complete waste of time and a waste of money.
I am not getting at you personally (I think your channel is great). I've just seen too many companies selling 10-20k, "luxurious" garden rooms, offices, gyms, etc, to customers who think they are Amazing..... When actually all they're getting for their 20k is a "Glorified Shed" that won't last them 5 Years!!
As I said before, nothing personal here, just think it's a problem in general. Keep up the good work👍
passive aggressive comment and you know this. My garden rooms will out last anyone who builds them to my standard. It's not rocket science and what I think you need to accept is that maybe you don't actually know what you are talking about. Ive been building for around a decade now and guess what? they are still going strong. So although I appreciate that you say you like my channel, I think we both know thats not true. You keep liking, I'll keep giving sound advice and saving people money. It's so easy to sit there bitching about other peoples channels when you have no content your self to prove me wrong or contradict anything I do. A shed and a garden room are two completely different things, educate yourself before you type.
I really feel sorry the customer thats paying you for this studio, You clearly haven't foamed the gaps in between the joist and pir board
Nor taped over the joist with silver foil tape.
@@belayvisual6633 built more than anyone, I know what needs foaming and what doesn’t
@@seanfuller2152 no need at all, built more than I can remember
@@belayvisual6633 as long as the frame is square and PIR boards cut square and tight there is no need for foam !!? ... big gap then ye fill with foam... this just shows how well this base has been built (no gaps).
Where’s he gunna put foam if theres no
gaps smart arse?