PLOWING VS TILLING PART 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 เม.ย. 2022
- We just finished running the Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow in prep for a seed bed, and now we're going to run the Ideal Farm Equipment 48" Tiller. It's our preferred Made in USA tiller for subcompact tractors like our 1025R. We know we won't be able to drive as fast, but we suspect we won't need as many passes as with the plow. Which is better or are these tools even trying to accomplish the same thing? Let's find out in today's video!
Products in video:
Dirt Dog All Purpose Plow: bit.ly/3E4c6Rz
Ideal 48" Tiller: bit.ly/3jiJGJT
Tillage Tools: bit.ly/3DT3mxr
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I think the combination of both plowing and telling is the best way to go
I guess I would consider a moldboard plow a better comparison here. It completely turns the ground over leaving “bare” soil on top. Your first tool is good for breaking up soil as indicated, but leaves the surface rough and not seedbed ready. It would be a good fall tillage implement. Also, the tiller leaves the soil ready for whatever you want to do next. It would be neat to see you try a one bottom plow behind your 1025R too! This is another good video too!
I just posted a video of this using my 2305 and a dearborn 1-14. I wanted a 12, but the 14 came up cheap. It's still not set up perfectly, but it worked. I'll plow now, and use m 60 tiller in the spring. th-cam.com/video/FAJFisXUgRI/w-d-xo.html
Yes!!!! I just bought a Tiller & One-Bottom Plow and trying to figure out how / in what order to use them! Looking to purchase a Middle Buster, as well as a Cultivator. Wish I knew their best practices . . . In which way they should be used & for what. I miss My Grandpa! Wish I could ask him all these questions now! He had a few thousand acre farm. It was miles by miles long. MASSIVE! Turkey & Chicken Farm as well, where he sold to TYSON, Circle S, & PURDUE . . . Mannnnnn I can’t help but think of him while I got my own little 5 acres going now! 😅 It’s all I need for self sufficiency! Doing a MASSIVE Perma-Culture Project! More to come. . .
plow first in late autumn and then till just before you want to plant or seed @@FrostyTheSnowman12321
Tilling has always been one of my Fav things to do. Gotta love instant results!
Perfect timing with this video,Thanks!
I've been using a 6ft woods tiller for years for my garden the only way to go another great video
I have a frontier tiller, 48". Got its use in and I'm glad I have it. Works great.
No doubt, the rototiller creates a phenomenal seedbed. It'd be interesting to see how a "disc harrow" works in your field testing. They are intended to dig in and flip over the top 2-4" inches of soil and residue and I'm sure you can go faster than with a rototiller. Yet another tool comparison for you to try out for the rest of us.
Plows are for breaking ground so you wont get a finish result. Plowing was a must back when the primary finishing tool was a disc. A disc wont cut through sod very easily. Not necessary with a tiller. Looks great. Love the channel
Yeah, I get a lot of requests from customers wanting plows to prep for seedbeds. Figured a series of videos comparing tillage tools would help! I've got a bunch more coming! Thanks as always!
Isn't it better for the ground in a field setting to do the traditional plowing and cultivating vs. a tiller? I thought that a tiller was better for gardening but was to aggressive to work a field up.
@@jacobcline4536 now days there are no plow tillers/seeders for field farming and many of the farmers are starting to use them or already using them, from what I have seen in my area. There are still farmers that will plow their fields in early April to break-up the hard ground and to turn under the previous years left over remnants then come back through again and either plow one more time to get a good seed bed or just plant their crop. I don't think there are large enough tillers for the big farm tractors and it would take too long to till the fields using a tiller, because they would have to drive 1/3 to 1/4 the speed they usually do using normal plows.
@@GoodWorksTractors The old traditional bottom plows actually turned the soil completely over where the sod was buried with the fresh soil on top. That implement you were using looks like a cross between a ripper and a springtooth. Would probably do a nice job to loosen bare soil in the fall for moisture penetration. No farmer would ever call that a plow. I think the manufacturer should consider another name for that. Looking forward to more of your toys. It would be so awesome to have them on hand. I would have to sell them all as used! Lol
@@GoodWorksTractors A moldboard plow would have done a better job breaking and rolling ground. Also, you can run a 60" tiller behind a 1025. I have done it for years with a 2305 and have a video up when I worked my garden last spring. Didn't get a video when I used it to break up a new garden plot in August.
Really like that tiller! It did a great job! You have a great property there too.
In my experience using the plow will break up the soil deeper than the tiller. Using the plow for the depth that it breaks up the dirt allows root growth to be deeper as the plants mature. Using the tiller after the plow allows you to have a very consistent seed bed to get the seeds germinated and started with a healthy root system. It will take longer but will make it much easier to have a very healthy growing root system which will give you a much better separation hedge.
Always enjoy your videos!
I use a combination of tools for tillage. I'm on heavy clay soil generally with large amounts of residue and organic matter to work in. So I either chisel plow or mouldboard plow first then disc then rotary till or power harrow prior to planting. Some of the tillage work is for vegetable and root vegetable production and other tillage I do is for hay crops and pasture. I find that if I just rotary till a hay field I'm left with a hard pan from the tiller blades
My preferred attack on old sod is to plow with a moldboard plow in the fall. Hit it once with tiller in the spring and you are ready to plant!
The tiller results were much more consistent and satisfying to watch. Every tool has its purpose though I guess.
I'm a farm boy here in northern Indiana, and we use a plow to get rid of compaction. Plus the uneven helps water get down into the ground and lets the top soil dry quicker. A tiller is a final pass tool, much like a disk. I would be interested to see what a disk would do over the already plowed ground on a small scale piece of equipment.
Very interesting video, that leads to some great thought regarding soil building. One might use the the Dirt Dog for a couple of deeper passes and then use the rototiller for the final pass. This would presumably lead to greater aeration below the seed bed all the while giving a finer tilth for the seed bed. An obvious point to most, that by just using the rototiller, would be the creation of hard pan, but in combination might create a better soil structure. Having and using both would be optimal.
I enjoy your channel just found your Channel today.
We always used to plow our garden with a moldboard plow and follow it up with a disc and harrow, otherwise we used a garden tiller after plowing. The only time we used a field cultivator, which was what you used, was when we were preparing a field that had soybeans in it, and then we disked it before planting.
You should use both. Every tool has it's purpose. The tiller will eventually cause a plow pan 6-7 inches deep. That chisel plow will remove that, but like we see it will not make a seed bed. Just giving some love to the chisel plow. 😀
Hey Courtney, I'm totally interested in the food plot stuff. Cool that you are getting into that. Here's an idea for an episode. Build a deer blind that will hold two people and put it in place with the 1025. My son and I are going to be doing that this spring for fall hunting. I want something with bow and gun shooting windows.
Looks great a beats the TroyBuilt 8HP push behind tiller I used to use time wise.
2 thumbs up for the tiller!
Very cool video
I have no practical experience in the matter. However I would think that the plow would be great at getting the soil broken up deeper, then using the tiller to prepare the seed bed. Biggest (theoretical) advantage would be a deeper seed bed for larger plants like corn, sunflower or the plant screen you are adding. BTW I still love that banjo tune you use 😃. -Dan from PA Country Cluckers
The tiller is definitely the best option here in my opinion. I honestly don’t know a good way to use the chisel plow lol. At least a 3 time one. Not trying to be rude but doesn’t seem like many uses for that on a small basis like on a subcompact tractor. Another great video.
You hit the nail on the head. You won’t get a good seed bed unless you disc the plowed area. Overall it will be a bit more level only because of the multiple disc passes.
Would have had to till many more times to get the finish you got by chiseling first. But the chisel assist with oxygen and compacted soil conditions for better seed bed. Also soil appears to pretty moist yet. Which chisel does less chunky dry then wet.
What, if any, difference was there between the tiller only passes and the tiller over the top of the chisel plowed section? Any differences in overall depth or fineness of the end result?
Couple questions, did you plant the same seed in the "just tilled" and "tilled and plowed" and if so , was there any difference between the two? Thanks. Again nice camera work
the "plow" is more like a chisel plow. It is better to use in the fall and let the freezing and thawing over the winter to break the clumps up. if you moved the shanks closer on the plow it might give you a better result, but its defiantly not a seedbed prep tool.
Agreed, thanks for sharing Cody!
On my old deere 420 the cost to find the gear unit for the rear and a tiller is out of site. I picked up a gas tiller to pull behind my smaller rider
I'm still writing. Big thump small target. If you plan to broadcast wait aweek before doing it. Lime and fertiliz same time. If making rows use general plow to make rows.
Six blade knife - Dire Straights. Good tilling music for 4 or 6. Random thought
Plowing in the fall to break up a shallow hardpan caused by constant tilling and letting the winter freeze-thaw cycle break up any hard clay. Till in the spring to prepare your seed bed.
bye fist side you dug up minerals below hardpan ?
The best plow I’ve had for years it had 4 or 5 feet on it did nice job on blowing. Sold it yrs. ago. I should have not sold it . Cause not I need one .
Thanks for watching Ron!
I have a Machio NC and a Kubota Japanese style tiller, the KUBOTA is on another planet in comparison to the US/Euro style of rotary tillers.
Like you show, enjoy the much needed info. 1 question please. Where can I get bolt on teeth for my bucket.?
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Nice. Not seeing any New England 'potatoes' which makes tilling easier.
Dad would use a moldboard plow followed by a disc harrow.
I've been working my small garden with a TroyBilt Horse - gives me more exercise both walking and fighting the 'potatoes.'
I can see advantages to the chisel plow when prepping a seedbed in a previous hay field, or after a few seasons of using just a tiller.
This year may bring a tiller on my BX2380 into the picture.
Is the Ideal tiller a forward, or reverse rotation?
Hi my advice will always be a good Stewart of your soil by practicing minimal tillage if not notill . Further more keep in mind rototillers destroy very valuable earthworms which are needed for ariation of the soil and decomposition of organic matter .
As good as the tiller results are, they get even better with a 2nd or 3rd pass. It's possible that no grass will show up after more passes.
Couple of things you over looked but your passes over the plowed area, you should have been able to till a lot faster considering you did all the hard work with the plow, for the tiller already. For guys with big gardens the ability to open ground or loosen up a compacted garden with the plow, than letting weeds or sod or whatever die off a bit than coming back a few days or weeks later before planting than smoothing all out is huge.
I’m very interested in the screening product you were talking about when will that be available?
Within the month!
Plow in fall, till in spring!
It's nice that it can go to 7" depth, most only go 3-4" You develop a hard pan then every 3 yrs You would take a chisel plow and bust that hard pan then roots get deeper
I agree that the chisel plow isn't ready for planting. Look at the big plows, chisels, disk, and baskets all in one. So the price of a tiller vs buying two or three implants to get the same result. Which way is cheaper in the long run. 🤔
Well I'm going to need that seed which grows ten foot tall... will look at your web site.
i think for 1 acre plot you probably just need hand tiller with maybe beds making attachment some type of irrigation so you can water your plants during dry times probably a good hard rake to put in seed small shovels to do some weeding maybe wheelbarrows during harvesting throw in some cow manure every few years and you'd be successful organic gardner
I use the all purpose plow, then go over the garden with a tiller.
Do those use a Maschio gearbox?
I would love to see a trench dug with the stump buster. Poor man’s backhoe. They all say it can but I would love to see it work before buying one. What ya say?
What about spaders? From what I read, spaders can go deeper and less damage to the soil.
You should have used a disc harrow for the last pass on the first half and compared that to the Tiller.
I ran a similar test on my leveling job I've been doing for our kids' playground. Started with a sub soiler to outline the perimeter, then did half of it with plow & half with a land pride 60" tiller. I'll prolly never hook that ancient, heavy plow up again lol. Next test will be the spring tooth vs the york rake to get the trash outta the tilled soil without destroying my leveling work
I did not understand the difference between plough and till, except that the soil still had hard chunks on the plough side and it had broken into finer soil on the tilling side.
Tilling vs plowing... ok... but what about disc harrows? How does discing and harrowing rate in this mix?
look at those geese
It's the simple things in life :)
Lol SQUIRREL!!! Dang geese
I'm way late on this so I'll say it anyways it depends on the size of garden or feld you are doing big areas plow in tje fall then cultivate or disc in the spring small areas rototiller fall and spring
After running the ripper three or four times you're gonna have to go over it with the tiller on top of that
Do you have any pictures of how much debris are in The blades
Unfortunately not
American british and europeans should buy openly from this group of we all buy each others stuff which helps workers from america to italy
Silly weather
What kind of warranty does that tiller have? Also, is it gear driven or chain driven? Thanks. Really like your channel.
He says in the video that it is gear-driven.
Just a thought...the chisel plow is way deeper than tilling and you are comparing apples to oranges
I don't see any way to adjust the depth on the tiller. It would take multiple passes to get a deeper seed bed. Also, a tiller will create a water drainage problem because of the horizontal troweling affect. Vertical tillage is required to break that layer.
The chisels dry it out and blend deeper.
1 dry day later it's tiller time.
The chisels will find granny's bed from 1932 instead of the tiller.
The tiller will last much much longer.
And honestly where i live a 1 pass tiller never gets good results.
Just for info you should overlap more with the tiller at least a wheel width it will give you better results sincerely ken k
I’ve never found the need. I only overlap enough to not leave gaps. Other than that, it’s like overlapping with your brush hog. Just making it less efficient. At least in my experience.
That plow looks like a ripper for breaking compaction underneath
For me, I've seen more weed growth come back from rotolling, vs plowing disc'ing.
4 blades vs 6 blades.. What is the rotor speed? Slightly increasing the rotor speed could easily make up the difference, and still be lighter and cheaper to make.
you need a tuning plow .
Now you need a no till drill. After you start using that you'll realize how much time you've been wasting. I actually bought a Tar River Saya 505. After a few tweaks it works really well. Now I spray the plot and come back in a couple weeks and plant (after a soaking rain). I bet I spend about half an hour per acre to prep and plant. Back when I was running a tiller and broadcasting seed then fertilizer by hand, that was closer to an hour and a half per acre and a bit harder work on me and much harder work on the tractor.
I'm running the no till with a B2650 so most folks could use it. The 3 point picks it up no problem. Anyone in the compact or up categories should be able to use it.
for that type of vegitation to prep it for actual crops you would need to use an actual plow not plow/cultivator thingy, in late october or mid november ,then in february use a disc harrow and you should be good to go if you want and can afford you could use a cultivator between the plowing and discing it if your discs dont do as a fine of a cutting , in contrast you could use the tiller only if the grass is for sure going to die by tilling and if your crop has shallow roots like cabbage or lettuce and other green crops
AP plows and subsoilers are meant to break the hardpan beneath. I tiller just wont do that.
Yes a tiller creates a smoother seed bed but overall drainage and soil conditioning isnt achieved.
Historically a disc or harrow would be used to break up the clumps.
Plowing is almost always followed by something else to further break up the ground before planting. Farmers have done that for hundreds (if not thousands) of years.
My neighbor will run deep chisels through his crop fields to break up the pan (caliche) prior to discing and planting. Every now and then he'll use a backhoe to dig down about 8 ft. and then mix the soil with the sand. Works pretty good, especially since he has converted most of his land from row crops to orchards (pecans)
You ever notice how geese fly in the v pattern and one side is longer than the other?
This is because there are more geese on that side.
I'm for tilling. Look at the results and fuel you will save and no more bucking bronk rides. You don't even have to use 4 wheel drive.
Have you looked Into giving Homestead Implements a try or researched them at all? I've ordered 3 implements from them so far and have been very pleased with their products. Should have their 55" tiller being delivered for my 2025r in another week. Excited to see the craftsmanship with it and performance. American made and military discount. Have talked several times with their staff and very friendly and helpful. Even received a separate FedEx package with shirts, hats, stickers and one giant decal of their logo a few weeks ago out of generosity on their part.
They are an online competitor. They sell direct to consumer. I’m not sure how this would work. Glad they’re treating you well :)
@@GoodWorksTractors understandable. Wasn't sure in your line of business if there was an opportunity or willingness on one side or other to help with sales, marketing, and profits. Have a good day!
The purpose of a plow has absolutely nothing to do with a final seed bed, it's to do a deep loosening of the soil. Your plowed area won't have anywhere near as much of a hard pan as your tilled area allowing better root production on the crops.
I make videos answering questions from customers, that’s what this video was made for 👍
@@GoodWorksTractors Watch what you plant in the area where you plowed, then tilled vs. where you only tilled. Might get some different results.🙂
@@GoodWorksTractors You could answer your customers with meaningful videos. For this video it would not have been hard to explain the tools are for two different purposes then show why they should not be directly compared.
How much dolar this traketor brother
Tilling and plowing have 2 different purposes you gotta do both
One thing I see and don't like, that horizontal cover going from the gear box to the side drive is shaking and bouncing.
I plow then till. Way easier on the tiller and tiller tractor.
Start with the plow than use a Power Harrow. Way faster and leaves the ground in better shape. A tiller really harms your soil structure.
Squirrel
Gaggle of geese
i wish i had tractor License
Tiller.
If you plan to barw
If you plan braoed
Ineedoneofthem
shouldnt the comparison be tiller vs disc? of course there is alot of difference between a plow and tiller....
The question people were asking me was between these two tools
would love to see comparison with tiller vs disc harrow. thanks.
get a disc, your wasteing your fuel or moldboard plow it
I feel that this 2 part video series was a extreamly un fair comparison. And that is why I gave it a dis like. Your using the wrong tool for the task, of course the right tool will give you a better result.
If you plan to bra
The "plow" your comparing the tiller to is not a plow in the real farm world we call that a cultivator either a shovel or a spike tip. A real plow will turn the earth over putting the surface organics to the bottom for break down. What you are doing is making a video to sell the tiller.
I love comments like this. Here's the google search results for the words "farm plow". Take a look at all of the images and all the tools that are called plows. Seldom is there an absolute. I do my best to remember that when making statements. www.google.com/search?q=farm+plow&sxsrf=APwXEdeVsnI4FmINawfftxeZQPx8HXYlJQ:1680192159845&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx4t3Gg4T-AhV_kYkEHdB4CtMQ0pQJegQIAhAC&biw=2560&bih=1289&dpr=1