Simple explanation of the process. I've read and seen videos that are more complicated than they need to be. I've used this for years but look for updates to keep me fresh. I would suggest that people pay particular attention to the days when the doors are arranged. Don't want the new queen going in the wrong door
Great video thanks, need to take into account of the age of the QC to apply the switching of the entrances otherwise the new queen could end up in the supper underneath .....
Day 1 - Open top Right gate Day 4 or 5 - CLOSE TOP RIGHT gate, Open BOTTOM RIGHT gate and TOP LEFT gate Day 9 or 10 - CLOSE the BOTTOM RIGHT GATE and BOTTOM, Open TOP BACK gate Day 14 - CLOSE the BOTTOM LEFT gate, leave the TOP BACK gate OPEN
Great tutorial on use but as someone else asked, what is the purpose of all the gate opening and closing in that time and pattern? is it to have bees slowly orient to new location and return to brood box on bottom with queen in it? I think the snelgrove board is pretty much a fancy bee escape board, correct?
@@Westernwilson ... I’m not sure of your explanation since the bees know the bottom entrance of the lower new box anyway as that is where they are oriented to begin with regardless of the doors on the Snelgrove board open or closed , when bees fly out they will go back to their original entrance obviously except the nurse bees above , foragers just will re home them selves back down the bottom so not sure all the opening and closing is all about , never used this method , if anyone can explain this better much appreciated.
@@fishmut As bees mature in the top box and become foragers, they are redirected to the boxes below by the door switching system. This is very helpful if you have an early nectar flow and wish to conserve all foragers to the mother hive so it achieves max foraging force. The other advantage is you essentially do a swarm control split on a single footprint so you don't need an extra setup or room. It works very well, and is an old and well-regarded technique.
No. The timing of the door use, not covered here, means you end with the rear upper door open in the Snelgrove board, just before the virgin(s) in the top box emerges. She flies, mates and returns via that final open door, when she is laying in the top box, you can remove it as a split.
WOW I'm confused whats the purpose someone drink to much mead. Just take a couple fresh frames out of old box without the queen put some bee's put them into new box add empty frames to fill out boxes (not to many empty) your done. Come back a month later new queen in new box same genetics no swarm. Or did I miss the point
Very confusing ! This colony may still swarm because the queen is in the original location, the bottom box will be full of field/foragers bees that are raring to swarm. I found out that even after removing the queen cells the colony swarmed.
You need to a) make the colony in the bottom box reasonably weak, and b) be verrrrrry sure you got ALL the queen cells. Best to do this procedure before they get to the stage they make queen cells.
That is also a way to guarantee the swarm goes out and finds a home, perhaps where they are not wanted, and will not have a beekeeper to control their mite loads. This dooms the colony to Varroasis. In this method, the bees think they have swarmed, and so remain happy and, with the beekeeper's help, healthy.
Simple explanation of the process. I've read and seen videos that are more complicated than they need to be.
I've used this for years but look for updates to keep me fresh. I would suggest that people pay particular attention to the days when the doors are arranged. Don't want the new queen going in the wrong door
Love the video, makes things easy to understand. The door switching tricks the foragers maturing in the top box into returning to the lower box.
Great video thanks, need to take into account of the age of the QC to apply the switching of the entrances otherwise the new queen could end up in the supper underneath .....
WOWWWW!!! Nice Animation! Thanks for sharing!
What animation software are you using. I love it and was thinking of doing tutorials.
Ex,cellent production thanks for posting
Is their a queen excluder on the bottom box or is the bottom box blocked?
Nice Gary you make this video...
Day 1 - Open top Right gate
Day 4 or 5 - CLOSE TOP RIGHT gate, Open BOTTOM RIGHT gate and TOP LEFT gate
Day 9 or 10 - CLOSE the BOTTOM RIGHT GATE and BOTTOM, Open TOP BACK gate
Day 14 - CLOSE the BOTTOM LEFT gate, leave the TOP BACK gate OPEN
brilliant!
Great tutorial on use but as someone else asked, what is the purpose of all the gate opening and closing in that time and pattern? is it to have bees slowly orient to new location and return to brood box on bottom with queen in it? I think the snelgrove board is pretty much a fancy bee escape board, correct?
The door switching fools the foragers maturing in the top box to come home to the colony in the bottom box.
@@Westernwilson ... I’m not sure of your explanation since the bees know the bottom entrance of the lower new box anyway as that is where they are oriented to begin with regardless of the doors on the Snelgrove board open or closed , when bees fly out they will go back to their original entrance obviously except the nurse bees above , foragers just will re home them selves back down the bottom so not sure all the opening and closing is all about , never used this method , if anyone can explain this better much appreciated.
@@fishmut As bees mature in the top box and become foragers, they are redirected to the boxes below by the door switching system. This is very helpful if you have an early nectar flow and wish to conserve all foragers to the mother hive so it achieves max foraging force. The other advantage is you essentially do a swarm control split on a single footprint so you don't need an extra setup or room. It works very well, and is an old and well-regarded technique.
But when you close and open different gates isnt possible to get a virgin queen in the suppers?
thats true, instead of using queen cell i think best way is to give upper colony a new queen.
No. The timing of the door use, not covered here, means you end with the rear upper door open in the Snelgrove board, just before the virgin(s) in the top box emerges. She flies, mates and returns via that final open door, when she is laying in the top box, you can remove it as a split.
hello can you give permit to me i can use this video for turkish beekeepers. may i translate and upload facebook and youtube
WOW I'm confused whats the purpose someone drink to much mead. Just take a couple fresh frames out of old box without the queen put some bee's put them into new box add empty frames to fill out boxes (not to many empty) your done. Come back a month later new queen in new box same genetics no swarm. Or did I miss the point
Hi Marta
Very confusing !
This colony may still swarm because the queen is in the original location, the bottom box will be full of field/foragers bees that are raring to swarm.
I found out that even after removing the queen cells the colony swarmed.
You need to a) make the colony in the bottom box reasonably weak, and b) be verrrrrry sure you got ALL the queen cells. Best to do this procedure before they get to the stage they make queen cells.
but I like swarms too much....I believe in natural swarms only this is original way to make helthy and harmony of bees colony.
That is also a way to guarantee the swarm goes out and finds a home, perhaps where they are not wanted, and will not have a beekeeper to control their mite loads. This dooms the colony to Varroasis. In this method, the bees think they have swarmed, and so remain happy and, with the beekeeper's help, healthy.