You know, I don't usually pay monthly for specific things... but if CNET made Cooley content more frequently behind a pay wall, I'd throw money so fast at it, it would cause hyperinflation.
Upgrading all of my lights (interior and exterior) to LEDs was the best thing mod I ever did to my car. I did have to get a LED flasher module to fix hyper flashing, but it was worth it. Getting an LED flasher module is definitely the easier option than getting resistors. The interior lights are so white and bright. My headlights are so white and clear now. LEDs should only by put in projector headlight housings.
I'd like to see some kind of regulations for LED's. When I am driving, even in the daylight, I am blinded by LED's, they are just plain too bright unless carefully aimed to prevent blinding oncoming traffic. They used to check headlight aim back when they did auto inspections, but now that they stopped do that it's terrible out there. I suppose a certain number of people will need to be killed in accidents before something is done about this problem.
LOAD RESISTORS get hotter, draw more power, which defeats the whole point of using LED... choices are 1. buy canbus(error-free) bulbs that have resistor built in 2. change your cars flasher relay....(best choice)
one 50 watt resistor equals 0.000001 worse MPG...the point is to be seen and never have to replace bulbs not saving energy, its not a house where they monitor every kilowatt and charge you 14 cents or so
Still the whole point of upgrading to LED was to reduce energy consumption and heat while emitting a brighter and faster reacting light. The heat coming from the bulbs contributes to the plastic lighting lenses fading and cracking and reducing any electrical load from your car is also reducing the load on your alternator making it work less harder and making it more reliable. That's why personally I only replaced my interior bulbs and reverse bulbs to LED's and left the turn signals and tail lights alone so it doesn't fast flash or throw the "brake light out" warning on my dash which actually disables my cruise control when that light goes on.
The reason that CANBUS throws an error is a low current. "ERROR-FREE" bulbs are also have a load resistor built in, so it is also not as efficient. The only way to get all the benefits, is to get a "NO LOAD FLASHER". www.amazon.com/dp/B00383ETS0
Marcus Anderson exactly,, flasher relays are not an option for all cars and resistors arent either especially some Germans and not all cars will accept the leds
I tried replacing the turn signal flasher in my car but it didnt work so i had to go back to using regular bulbs for turn signals all my other bulbs are led
junior5516 Are you sure you actually changed the right flasher module? And sometimes you have to buy one specifically made for hyper flash, and for your vehicle I had a hard time finding one for my 2011 Camry a while back but ended up finding one, I had to find the specific part number of the original flasher
Excellent video I have modified all of the Thomas Edison bulbs in my car one thing I wanna share with fellow tubers is that don’t buy led without any heat sink on them because these get very hot and need some kind of metal to dissipate the heat generated while running. The difference between the two is a life of 2 months without heat sink and 3 to 4 years with the heat sink. Good luck out there and most installations for your specific type of car are available right here on you tube.
I swapped out all of my bulbs in my 2004 Civic (turn signals, backup, parking and stop as well as interior lights) and definitely is a huge improvement. Most of the lights are Philips and one pair of Sylvania LED, the only thing is that I changed my flasher relay to avoiding hyperflashing.
Mr. Cooley, thanks again for another informative video. I've a 2016 Accord EX-L that I purchased new, I love the car with some slight exception and that being the stock reverse lights (back-up lights) in my opinion, are too dim; I discovered through some research that I could replace them with the same LED bulbs that are use in the Fog Lights on this car.... it works and I'm much more satisfied with the brighter LED reverse
*COOLEY,* one thing that you didn't mention is that MOST of the LED replacements are designed to handle *12v* and can operate for ever(very long time); *HOWEVER,* when the engine is running it produces over *14v* and slowly killing LED bulbs. I've purchased cheap and top rated LED bulbs and so far none of them lasted over a year. The only ones that still work are the ones that are not staying ON for long periods of time. Like, dome lights and turn signals. P.S. Plus for people currently living in the area with very high temperatures in the summer, expect a reduction of life in the LED bulbs especially if you run them during the day.
*COOLEY* also what do you think about vehicles with a very low mounted turn signals? Like *Prius* and *Sportage* in the rear bumper. 🤔 Some Utility Vehicles that have them in the rear bumper they also have them on the body, but only on the rear bumper????
My LEDs are going on ten months right now. I live in the heat of Arizona and the parking light circuit in my car is modified (By me) to run whenever the ignition is on, so these bad boys are on almost constantly. Haven't had a failure yet, I might follow up when I hit the 1-year mark.
Two years here on a couple cheap Amazon ones in my license plate lights. No issues. You had failed ones do to the brand you got. LEDs can handle 14v fine.
I tried LED turn signals on my 2010 Ford Edge and went back to incadescent bulbs a few months later due to hyperflash. Reverse LED bulbs look awesome and show more during night.
2:00 - The light is produced by the glowing filament. It takes time for the filament to heat-up and cool down, so the brightness can't change very fast. Brightness is determined by filament temperature. Filament temperature is determined by the specific heat of the filament, and the integral of (Power in - Power out). Power in is the electrical power V^2/R. The filament's resistance depends on temperature. Low resistance at low temperatures, higher when it is glowing white hot. Then you have the duty-cycle of the switching waveform. That's a complex interaction; "sine-wave" doesn't cut it.
This was a great explanation; really effectively simplifies the concepts while retaining accuracy. I agree about the resistor; I'd rather keep those energy savings than burn them off into the atmosphere...
4:15 most cars are probably using flashers, not fancy computers. A more elegant solution is to get a solid state flasher. That way you don't need to fumble around with load resistors and you don't negate the LED's power savings
Our 2016 Mazda CX-5 came full LED, had to pay for it via checking the grand touring option. Then the driver side DRL went out right after our warranty. Great big bucks now to fix it as the entire headlight unit must be changed. Thanks MAZDA.
Nich Pave-Low Landing lights are (extended) turned on below 10000' regardless of the time of day. Beacon lights are turned on when a plane is about to move at any time of the day.
Don't put a resistor in, just replace the flasher relay with one that works with the lower power draw. A couple of people have already said it, but I think it's worth repeating in hopes that you guys will read it.
I use digital relay to avoid hyperflash. It was plug and play. The digital flasher is backwards compatible with analog (incandescent) bulbs. I got mine at super bright LED web site. Great web site, just google for it. Once there, enter Year, Make, and Model of your car and it will show all the bulbs plus relay your car needs. My 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme looks great and lighting is much improved.
Toyota kinda cheats on their lower trim cars. For example; A base Camry has LED headlights, but it’s because the single projector functions as DRL, low beam, and high beam. Other cars give separate high/low beams and a separate LED DRL strip for styling.
WTF is wrong with old school bulbs??? It's much closer to natural light spectrum, aka sunlight, and it's much easier on the eyes of oncoming traffic. I bought 60 incandescent 40 watt, soft white bulbs, from Poland since their production is now banned in the U.S., to install in my house. Screw led's. There's a reason why the government is trying to force them onto us and it ain't got jack shit to do with energy conservation. As if to say, there's a shortage of energy on the planet. Get the hell out of here with that shit.
I have to agree the benefits r really nice, even on olders cars...but the resistor setup feels like too much of a hassle to make ot worth it. I think I will stick with interior lighting LED. If you guys could do a video on that, that would be awesome. #CooleyFTW
Some lights are the wrong color and hyper-flashing and light height. I change all but the headlights and fog lights in the car. "load resistors have been know to start fires. cheap led will flicker. leds are not a modification. leds are not always to spec of the car.
Also worth mentioning that some cars such as BMW can be coded to eliminate hyperflash by telling the car's computer that the incandescent has been replaced by an LED
Hey I purchased two pairs. 1. Watt 60w (30w/ bulb) & Lumens 6000LM 2. Watt 50w (25w/ bulb) & Lumens 5000LM I obviously want high visibility but dont want to blind on coming drivers - what do you suggest?
Not into wiring just go to JDM ASTAR they have plug in play cords with resistors wired in , I have the 1156 . You can get the 7340 / 7343 . The resistors do get hot but I’ve had zero problems with mine .
My car is 2001 mazda. How do I know if changing my tail light bulbs from halogen to LED will cause hyperflash? Im trying to avoid upgrading if it requires resistors.
Swapped all bulbs on my 2010 Prius to LED including the headlights. To eliminate hyper flash I changed out the relay to an LED specific one. It was a bitch to do (find and swap) but well worth it.
What energy savings benefit would there be if you installed resistors? Wouldn't they end up using just as much energy as the old incandescent bulb used?
@@silverify however they last 10X longer. In fact, most of the time when an LED fails, it isn't the bulb itself dying, but instead the voltage regulation circuits failing
The fast flashing at 4:10 is indeed caused by the lower total current draw of LED. But not because the computer is believing the bulb is broken since the overall current load is now lower. The "hyperflash" phenomenon after LED upgrade is because of the traditional "flash relay". The traditional flash relay, that is still used on modern cars, uses a filament of metal inside of it that is "pre-tuned" with an expected electrical current load. That specific current load causes the metal to flex as it heats up from the current and then it open/close the circuit with an audible "click" sound as it cools down and the cycle repeats. So when all the turn signal bulbs have been changed to LED, which uses a fraction of the original current, the tuned metal filament no longer receives the expected electrical current and so clicks at a different rate. The best solution is to change to an LED compatible flasher that will still have the clicking sound and then flash at the DOT approved rate. The flash fast rate otherwise is illegal. A compatible flasher is like $8 to $25 or so. The hardest thing to do is just finding it in the vehicle's dashboard and buying a compatible unit. It should just be plug-n-play after that. Another thing is to web search for some forums for people who had the same problem on the same make/model of vehicle.
Even if the "sharp" turn-on and turn-off of an LED light isn't "attention-grabbing" per se -- at highway speeds (70MPH or so) the fact that the LED comes to full illumination more quickly means you see it a couple of feet sooner than you'd see an incandescent bulb. A couple of feet can *easily* be the difference between having a wreck or stopping in time.
I like how some car manufacturers built in an emergency brake flasher. Where when a driver slams on the brakes, the THIRD brake or sometime all of them give a quick flash pattern. Those you notice even if they are not directly in front of you.
Replace flasher for hyperflash is better, easier, & typically faster than installing load resistors. Also with load resistors, you lose energy savings.
Hey Cooley and everyone, I changed rear lights on my older KIA Sedona several months ago but I switched back to halogen because I got so many complaints from random drivers. They couldn’t see my brake lights in the daylight and also my rear lights when I would back up. And I got an expensive aftermarket ones, like the ones you just showed. I think it’s very dangerous to have these aftermarket LEDs and can lead to accidents. I’m all about nice lights and energy saving but I think people should stay with factory LEDs for now. It’s the safety matter. I am just talking from my own experience. They looked nice at night, but halogen work better in the daytime and it’s more safe towards other drivers..
OK. First of all, did you install them with the correct polarity? If yes, how did you test the brake lights to see if they are all working? From my experience, EXPENSIVE doesn't mean good and bright. I have very bright back up lights, that at night it almost looks like a headlight, so during the day they also light up a lot brighter then plain bulbs and I doubt that it goes unnoticed. Second, *halogen* bulbs are the high current bulbs that are installed in headlights and foglights. You probably meant *incandescent* bulbs.
CS User Yes the polarity was good and they were decent quality according to reviews. I like to do my research before I order stuff and I browse everywhere like eBay, Amazon, RockAuto, TH-cam, Reddit etc. and compare. And yes, they were on when I apply brake, I checked of course, but barely visible in the daylight. Maybe the problem was that my rear light bulbs are the same as brake lights, so they just light up a bit brighter when you apply brakes. Not sure, but I switched back the factory ones. Sorry, I meant incandescent instead of halogen.. If you have a link where you ordered yours from, I might get them
For states that require safety inspections, aftermarket LED/HID/etc bulbs are not legal. If it came with a halogen or incandescent it must stay the same due to the housings.
Try lasfit,auxito,xenon depot led bulbs. Those are better options than what u had before. Or get the tried and true sylvania led headlights with a 5 year warranty and sylvania zevo led bulbs for a lifetime warranty.
The interior lights are not difficult to change to LED lights. You can find a video on how to do it on the current model Toyota Corolla. LED headlights are standard on all trims of the Toyota Corolla.
My car I installed it and yes it has hyper flash but I don't see why that's a down side, I want the signal light to be a quick and flashy attention grabber, the whole purpose is to tell the driver behind me hey look out, so what's wrong with hyper flash besides your subject opinion
That resister gets superhot.. i decided to remove the resistor and led bulb an just use silverstar bulb.. not as bright as the led but its brighter than the oem bulb...
I went to half a dozen websites that all tell me that my 2013 Lexus RX450h takes 9005 bulbs in the headlights, but I've pulled them out and they're definitely not 9005. So annoying. Now I can't trust that any of the other bulbs are what they say they are.
It actually depends how quickly it lights up in your head. Instant or with a slight 0.01sec delay? If it is instant, then you've already been upgraded to LED. 😆😆😆
Go look up at headlight Revolution. Put on ur year, make, and model and it will show u which led bulbs fits ur vehicle. Or if u want take ur car about of the light assembly and see what size u have.
Headlights in US must be DOT approved else they are illegal and installing them otherwise is grounds for negligence in the event of an accident you cause.
@@oldtwinsna8347 dot regulations are laughable. They help somewhat, but are pretty old school and waaaay too restrictive, preventing stuff such as flashing brake lights (for example, to grab someone's attention more in case the car in front brakes hard) while also allowing brake lights to be used as turn signals (which not only reduces their reliability, as a single bulb is pulling double-duty, but makes it harder to determine what the driver is doing, since you distinguish a brake light from a turn signal by behavior, not by color). They also prevent cool technologies, like those headlights from BMW or Audi that use high beams but at the same time don't blind people by selectively turning them off in certain areas. Also, many cars have LEDs in weird reflectors (namely Teslas and newer Hondas) and those *factory* headlights which are DOT approved are really blinding. They just lazily throw light everywhere and they're worse than my aftermarket non DOT approved HID retrofit.
Been replacing my regular lights with LED's and even custom made a pair of LED tail lights for years and I always pass state inspection. As long as the colors are right and they are in a DOT approved housing, I guess you should have no issues.
uRiBiTo666 Where the fuck do you get all this bullshit? Tail lights as turn signals has been a thing since forever. Not a damn thing wrong with how they worked.
That’s also a better option. But realize modern vehicles are integrated behind the speedometer gauge. The best way to get an led bulbs without dealing the hyperflash, he get an led bulb with a built in resistors. Much simpler
I just paid $7 for 2 incandescent blinker bulbs vs. $21 for 1 LED, for a 7 year old car. Why the hell would I pay 3 times as much for 1 less bulb? Believe me, you can see my blinker bulbs just fine without them being a lighthouse beacon
@@toyotabrony no it doesn't, as 100% of the led retrofits on the market are not DOT marked nor will they ever be. The only true legal way is to replace the lamp all together with a DOT marked lamp.
@@hjc0706 most likely none of the led especially for headligths will not be dot. But I still upgrade to led. It’s better,safer, brighter, and smarter. Because it alerts other drivers better.
Yes u can. If u see other vehicles that came with halogen or incandescent bulbs and switch to LED’s all the time or even HID’s, go head slap on ur vehicle and enjoy it. 🤘🏼
It's more of a design choice than a cost concern. For example, German car makers build cars for the North American market with red turn signals, despite selling those cars with amber turn signals elsewhere.
When you turn off a bulb it's still on. A little bit of current is still flowing. You generally need an LED to see it. That constant current causes incandescent bulbs to run hot & that heat travels everywhere in the vehicle that is connected to the same wires. My instrument cluster during hot days would cut out randomly. I changed all of the socketed bulbs to LED, never saw the problem again. Yes that instrument cluster circuit board solder joints & capacitors are probably visibly damaged.
@@rafaelgsbr issue is, that's typically a feature available only in super high end cameras, like, Hollywood movie style cameras. Haven't seen a camera that let you disable automatic aperture since when Film Cameras were still popular. And sure CNet is big budget, but I doubt they're using that fancy of a camera
O, common @@cpufreak101 , my phone has it when I put the camera in a PRO mode. I guess, they just should have used the phone to do the video. At least the part with lights in it.
yeah that LED tail light/turn signal solution isn't pretty nor is it an easy upgrade. Most newer are have CANBUS so putting in a LED tail lamp bulb may flash an error on your dash...which it did for me with my 16 focus so I went back to the good ol-edison bulbs. The best way to get LED tail lights is to buy the an LED tail lamp assembly, they are expensive but gets around the pitfalls of going over LED in the first place and best of all you done have to mess with any of those stinking DIY resistors.
COOLEY WE NEED YOU BACK WITH CAR REVIEWS. YOU ARE THE ONLY REASON WE WATCH ROADSHOW. I’LL PAY MONTHLY FOR EXCLUSIVE COOLEY CAR REVIEWS
Me too....cooley is the best on car
You know, I don't usually pay monthly for specific things... but if CNET made Cooley content more frequently behind a pay wall, I'd throw money so fast at it, it would cause hyperinflation.
Upgrading all of my lights (interior and exterior) to LEDs was the best thing mod I ever did to my car. I did have to get a LED flasher module to fix hyper flashing, but it was worth it. Getting an LED flasher module is definitely the easier option than getting resistors.
The interior lights are so white and bright. My headlights are so white and clear now.
LEDs should only by put in projector headlight housings.
I'd like to see some kind of regulations for LED's. When I am driving, even in the daylight, I am blinded by LED's, they are just plain too bright unless carefully aimed to prevent blinding oncoming traffic. They used to check headlight aim back when they did auto inspections, but now that they stopped do that it's terrible out there. I suppose a certain number of people will need to be killed in accidents before something is done about this problem.
I wholeheartedly agree with this. Kind of a terrible thing, honestly.
that’s why i’m tinting the lights, too bright!
LOAD RESISTORS get hotter, draw more power, which defeats the whole point of using LED... choices are
1. buy canbus(error-free) bulbs that have resistor built in
2. change your cars flasher relay....(best choice)
one 50 watt resistor equals 0.000001 worse MPG...the point is to be seen and never have to replace bulbs not saving energy, its not a house where they monitor every kilowatt and charge you 14 cents or so
Still the whole point of upgrading to LED was to reduce energy consumption and heat while emitting a brighter and faster reacting light. The heat coming from the bulbs contributes to the plastic lighting lenses fading and cracking and reducing any electrical load from your car is also reducing the load on your alternator making it work less harder and making it more reliable. That's why personally I only replaced my interior bulbs and reverse bulbs to LED's and left the turn signals and tail lights alone so it doesn't fast flash or throw the "brake light out" warning on my dash which actually disables my cruise control when that light goes on.
The reason that CANBUS throws an error is a low current.
"ERROR-FREE" bulbs are also have a load resistor built in, so it is also not as efficient.
The only way to get all the benefits, is to get a "NO LOAD FLASHER". www.amazon.com/dp/B00383ETS0
Keye T I changed all the bulbs on my Subaru and then did just that, changed the relay under the dash. Problem solved
snakerb exactly
Love your post Cooley! Keep them coming!!
Replacing flasher relay is a much better option for hyperflashing if can be done.
Osama Akbar exactly, because using a load resistor draws more power defeating the purpose... i just change the flasher
Marcus Anderson exactly,, flasher relays are not an option for all cars and resistors arent either especially some Germans and not all cars will accept the leds
Just replace the postion and brake light only and leave the blinkers incandescent
I tried replacing the turn signal flasher in my car but it didnt work so i had to go back to using regular bulbs for turn signals all my other bulbs are led
junior5516 Are you sure you actually changed the right flasher module? And sometimes you have to buy one specifically made for hyper flash, and for your vehicle I had a hard time finding one for my 2011 Camry a while back but ended up finding one, I had to find the specific part number of the original flasher
Excellent video I have modified all of the Thomas Edison bulbs in my car one thing I wanna share with fellow tubers is that don’t buy led without any heat sink on them because these get very hot and need some kind of metal to dissipate the heat generated while running. The difference between the two is a life of 2 months without heat sink and 3 to 4 years with the heat sink. Good luck out there and most installations for your specific type of car are available right here on you tube.
Brian Cooley should go independent like Brian Tong did. Oh yeah!!
the asian guy?... his show is better now that is just him?
Bro Brian Tong works at a clothing store here in San Francisco. This is a side gig for him.
I swapped out all of my bulbs in my 2004 Civic (turn signals, backup, parking and stop as well as interior lights) and definitely is a huge improvement. Most of the lights are Philips and one pair of Sylvania LED, the only thing is that I changed my flasher relay to avoiding hyperflashing.
We need you back! You are as good as any top gear journalist !
Mr. Cooley, thanks again for another informative video. I've a 2016 Accord EX-L that I purchased new, I love the car with some slight exception and that being the stock reverse lights (back-up lights) in my opinion, are too dim; I discovered through some research that I could replace them with the same LED bulbs that are use in the Fog Lights on this car.... it works and I'm much more satisfied with the brighter LED reverse
*COOLEY,* one thing that you didn't mention is that MOST of the LED replacements are designed to handle *12v* and can operate for ever(very long time); *HOWEVER,* when the engine is running it produces over *14v* and slowly killing LED bulbs. I've purchased cheap and top rated LED bulbs and so far none of them lasted over a year. The only ones that still work are the ones that are not staying ON for long periods of time. Like, dome lights and turn signals.
P.S. Plus for people currently living in the area with very high temperatures in the summer, expect a reduction of life in the LED bulbs especially if you run them during the day.
*COOLEY* also what do you think about vehicles with a very low mounted turn signals? Like *Prius* and *Sportage* in the rear bumper. 🤔
Some Utility Vehicles that have them in the rear bumper they also have them on the body, but only on the rear bumper????
My LEDs are going on ten months right now. I live in the heat of Arizona and the parking light circuit in my car is modified (By me) to run whenever the ignition is on, so these bad boys are on almost constantly. Haven't had a failure yet, I might follow up when I hit the 1-year mark.
Two years here on a couple cheap Amazon ones in my license plate lights. No issues. You had failed ones do to the brand you got. LEDs can handle 14v fine.
Cooley you the best reviewer !!
very helpful on explaining how the led works thank you and my truck thanks you
Cooley alert 🚨🚨🚨🚨🔥🔥🔥
the first informative video i've seen over this topic thank you so much for the explanation in the latter half
I tried LED turn signals on my 2010 Ford Edge and went back to incadescent bulbs a few months later due to hyperflash. Reverse LED bulbs look awesome and show more during night.
2:00 - The light is produced by the glowing filament. It takes time for the filament to heat-up and cool down, so the brightness can't change very fast.
Brightness is determined by filament temperature. Filament temperature is determined by the specific heat of the filament, and the integral of (Power in - Power out). Power in is the electrical power V^2/R. The filament's resistance depends on temperature. Low resistance at low temperatures, higher when it is glowing white hot. Then you have the duty-cycle of the switching waveform. That's a complex interaction; "sine-wave" doesn't cut it.
I need more Cooley videos come on C|net bring back full episodes of on cars please.
This was a great explanation; really effectively simplifies the concepts while retaining accuracy.
I agree about the resistor; I'd rather keep those energy savings than burn them off into the atmosphere...
4:15 most cars are probably using flashers, not fancy computers. A more elegant solution is to get a solid state flasher. That way you don't need to fumble around with load resistors and you don't negate the LED's power savings
Our 2016 Mazda CX-5 came full LED, had to pay for it via checking the grand touring option. Then the driver side DRL went out right after our warranty. Great big bucks now to fix it as the entire headlight unit must be changed. Thanks MAZDA.
Mazda. 1st mistake lol. DRL's are useless eye candy anyway. Serves no purpose at night. Thats why important vehicles don't have them, trains planes boats, firetrucks etc......
Nich Pave-Low Landing lights are (extended) turned on below 10000' regardless of the time of day. Beacon lights are turned on when a plane is about to move at any time of the day.
Your points are very convincing
NOOOO!!! Never Use Scotch-Lock Connectors! Solder and shrink wrap.
company van. who cares.
do every video for roadshow please!
I have a 2012 f150 and I used FORScan to disable the hyperflash function and turned on daytime running lights
Don't put a resistor in, just replace the flasher relay with one that works with the lower power draw.
A couple of people have already said it, but I think it's worth repeating in hopes that you guys will read it.
So what should you do?
Some aftermarket turn signal modules are also sold to get rid of hyperflash and extra features check out diode dynamics
For my 4runner I was able to buy a new fuse module that makes the clicking sound for $15 and now my signal is quieter and works properly.
I acctually bought the turn signal leds with built in resistors and its working fine...
Great instructive video! Do they sell led bulb that has integrated resistors or do all led bulbs need one?
I use digital relay to avoid hyperflash. It was plug and play. The digital flasher is backwards compatible with analog (incandescent) bulbs. I got mine at super bright LED web site. Great web site, just google for it. Once there, enter Year, Make, and Model of your car and it will show all the bulbs plus relay your car needs. My 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme looks great and lighting is much improved.
I actually like hyperflash so i kept it. The hyperflash grabs attn of drivers better. The hazards dont hyperflash which is great.
Hyper flash drives you nuts man🚗😵
It sucks and it’s annoying. Hyperflash makes ur vehicle look cheap
I hate car companies that use old school bulbs especially on the headlight low beams and taillights unless on top trim.
Realtime Reviews
& they must put lenses in
Low beam
High beam
Fog light
It will raise the price I'll stick to old bulb
Toyota kinda cheats on their lower trim cars. For example; A base Camry has LED headlights, but it’s because the single projector functions as DRL, low beam, and high beam. Other cars give separate high/low beams and a separate LED DRL strip for styling.
WTF is wrong with old school bulbs??? It's much closer to natural light spectrum, aka sunlight, and it's much easier on the eyes of oncoming traffic.
I bought 60 incandescent 40 watt, soft white bulbs, from Poland since their production is now banned in the U.S., to install in my house.
Screw led's. There's a reason why the government is trying to force them onto us and it ain't got jack shit to do with energy conservation. As if to say, there's a shortage of energy on the planet. Get the hell out of here with that shit.
Halogen looks bad and cheap. I will never buy a car without LED'S
Was just thinking of doing this and Cooley shows pout of nowhere!
I have to agree the benefits r really nice, even on olders cars...but the resistor setup feels like too much of a hassle to make ot worth it. I think I will stick with interior lighting LED. If you guys could do a video on that, that would be awesome. #CooleyFTW
LED have a better responce time compared to incandescent bulbs are fact
That’s facts
for older/ish cars you can replace the turn signal relay with a led safe one.
In Australia, non factory modifications can make insurance companies turn you down. Is this considered a non factory modification?
Some lights are the wrong color and hyper-flashing and light height. I change all but the headlights and fog lights in the car. "load resistors have been know to start fires. cheap led will flicker. leds are not a modification. leds are not always to spec of the car.
I don’t mind the hyper flash. It makes you stand out more when you are in traffic and needing to change lanes.
Also worth mentioning that some cars such as BMW can be coded to eliminate hyperflash by telling the car's computer that the incandescent has been replaced by an LED
Hey I purchased two pairs.
1. Watt 60w (30w/ bulb) & Lumens 6000LM
2. Watt 50w (25w/ bulb) & Lumens 5000LM
I obviously want high visibility but dont want to blind on coming drivers - what do you suggest?
Diode Dynamics makes great LEDs, better than the cheap ones from Amazon.
Diode dynamics makes one of the best quality led bulbs on the market.
I did this to my 14 300 last year and my 2006 grand Cherokee last month
When I converted my 01 Jimmy to LED I swapped the old relay with an electronic timed relay which fixed the problem
Not into wiring just go to JDM ASTAR they have plug in play cords with resistors wired in , I have the 1156 . You can get the 7340 / 7343 . The resistors do get hot but I’ve had zero problems with mine .
My car is 2001 mazda. How do I know if changing my tail light bulbs from halogen to LED will cause hyperflash? Im trying to avoid upgrading if it requires resistors.
You can also get LED’s with built in resistors, which negate the need for the unsightly big resistor
Swapped all bulbs on my 2010 Prius to LED including the headlights. To eliminate hyper flash I changed out the relay to an LED specific one. It was a bitch to do (find and swap) but well worth it.
What energy savings benefit would there be if you installed resistors? Wouldn't they end up using just as much energy as the old incandescent bulb used?
Yes but the led will last way long that the old bulb.
It's a fucking car! It's a closed electrical system. WTF are we so concerned with conserving the energy for?
@@heinzkitzvelvet im not concerned, just confused about that specific point. Chill
@@Nich_Pavelow and they will cost much much more. even the resistor is so expensive
@@silverify however they last 10X longer. In fact, most of the time when an LED fails, it isn't the bulb itself dying, but instead the voltage regulation circuits failing
I cant wait until hyper flash doesnt exist and old school resistors are a thing of the past
Just get a *No Load Flasher.*
Problem solved!
An LED flasher module works, too. No splicing or anything like that. Just plug-and-play.
Stick with the old school. They work better and there's no dumb shit to deal with.
U can get a built in resistor led bulbs that will stop the hyperflash
The fast flashing at 4:10 is indeed caused by the lower total current draw of LED. But not because the computer is believing the bulb is broken since the overall current load is now lower. The "hyperflash" phenomenon after LED upgrade is because of the traditional "flash relay".
The traditional flash relay, that is still used on modern cars, uses a filament of metal inside of it that is "pre-tuned" with an expected electrical current load. That specific current load causes the metal to flex as it heats up from the current and then it open/close the circuit with an audible "click" sound as it cools down and the cycle repeats. So when all the turn signal bulbs have been changed to LED, which uses a fraction of the original current, the tuned metal filament no longer receives the expected electrical current and so clicks at a different rate.
The best solution is to change to an LED compatible flasher that will still have the clicking sound and then flash at the DOT approved rate. The flash fast rate otherwise is illegal. A compatible flasher is like $8 to $25 or so. The hardest thing to do is just finding it in the vehicle's dashboard and buying a compatible unit. It should just be plug-n-play after that. Another thing is to web search for some forums for people who had the same problem on the same make/model of vehicle.
Hey was that drill turning in the wrong direction?
Even if the "sharp" turn-on and turn-off of an LED light isn't "attention-grabbing" per se -- at highway speeds (70MPH or so) the fact that the LED comes to full illumination more quickly means you see it a couple of feet sooner than you'd see an incandescent bulb. A couple of feet can *easily* be the difference between having a wreck or stopping in time.
I like how some car manufacturers built in an emergency brake flasher. Where when a driver slams on the brakes, the THIRD brake or sometime all of them give a quick flash pattern. Those you notice even if they are not directly in front of you.
By keeping the hyper flash will it damage anything
Might lower the life of your LEDs
Replace flasher for hyperflash is better, easier, & typically faster than installing load resistors. Also with load resistors, you lose energy savings.
I actually do this as my first modification on my car halogen lamps bug me. I did them in my 2020 Nissan Altima SL.
Find a LED bulb with a canbus system then it’ll eliminate hyper flash
Hey Cooley and everyone, I changed rear lights on my older KIA Sedona several months ago but I switched back to halogen because I got so many complaints from random drivers. They couldn’t see my brake lights in the daylight and also my rear lights when I would back up. And I got an expensive aftermarket ones, like the ones you just showed. I think it’s very dangerous to have these aftermarket LEDs and can lead to accidents. I’m all about nice lights and energy saving but I think people should stay with factory LEDs for now. It’s the safety matter. I am just talking from my own experience. They looked nice at night, but halogen work better in the daytime and it’s more safe towards other drivers..
So if they couldn't see them then wouldn't that mean that they just weren't working?
Kyle Graf I mean I had like 4 people in only couple of months actually waving and stopping me to let me know how my brake lights don’t work
Nemo The Fish So then they weren't working
OK. First of all, did you install them with the correct polarity? If yes, how did you test the brake lights to see if they are all working? From my experience, EXPENSIVE doesn't mean good and bright. I have very bright back up lights, that at night it almost looks like a headlight, so during the day they also light up a lot brighter then plain bulbs and I doubt that it goes unnoticed.
Second, *halogen* bulbs are the high current bulbs that are installed in headlights and foglights. You probably meant *incandescent* bulbs.
CS User Yes the polarity was good and they were decent quality according to reviews. I like to do my research before I order stuff and I browse everywhere like eBay, Amazon, RockAuto, TH-cam, Reddit etc. and compare. And yes, they were on when I apply brake, I checked of course, but barely visible in the daylight. Maybe the problem was that my rear light bulbs are the same as brake lights, so they just light up a bit brighter when you apply brakes. Not sure, but I switched back the factory ones. Sorry, I meant incandescent instead of halogen.. If you have a link where you ordered yours from, I might get them
For states that require safety inspections, aftermarket LED/HID/etc bulbs are not legal. If it came with a halogen or incandescent it must stay the same due to the housings.
I changed couple LEDs bulbs for my car. 2 headlights LEDs die, 1 side marker LEDs die, 1 turn signal LEDs die.
Try lasfit,auxito,xenon depot led bulbs.
Those are better options than what u had before.
Or get the tried and true sylvania led headlights with a 5 year warranty and sylvania zevo led bulbs for a lifetime warranty.
The interior lights are not difficult to change to LED lights. You can find a video on how to do it on the current model Toyota Corolla. LED headlights are standard on all trims of the Toyota Corolla.
The manufacturers should include it in the design.
Agreed. How the hell is it 2020 and carmakers STILL haven't standardized LED modules in all the exterior lights?
Just replace the flasher relay.
My car I installed it and yes it has hyper flash but I don't see why that's a down side, I want the signal light to be a quick and flashy attention grabber, the whole purpose is to tell the driver behind me hey look out, so what's wrong with hyper flash besides your subject opinion
That resister gets superhot.. i decided to remove the resistor and led bulb an just use silverstar bulb.. not as bright as the led but its brighter than the oem bulb...
I went to half a dozen websites that all tell me that my 2013 Lexus RX450h takes 9005 bulbs in the headlights, but I've pulled them out and they're definitely not 9005. So annoying. Now I can't trust that any of the other bulbs are what they say they are.
Square wave!!!
I like the benefits but like you I do not like adding a resistor things I'm not that good at it.
U can always get an led bulbs that has a built in resistors for pure plug and play.
How do I change the light bulb in my head that goes off when I get an idea to LED?
😂😂😂😂😂
It actually depends how quickly it lights up in your head. Instant or with a slight 0.01sec delay?
If it is instant, then you've already been upgraded to LED.
😆😆😆
does Hyper flash really matter though?
It does and it’s annoying.
Either u out load equalizer resistor, an led flasher relay, or get an led bulb with a built in resistors
how to find the interior light size
Go look up at headlight Revolution. Put on ur year, make, and model and it will show u which led bulbs fits ur vehicle.
Or if u want take ur car about of the light assembly and see what size u have.
In my 2004 suburban I just replaced the flasher itself
Why don't American cars have a separate indicator like in the UK.
Its right to replace led bulb.
i kinda like hyperflash-- i'd leave it
You don’t need those resistors just get an updated relay for led
Or get an led bulbs with a built in resistors. Much more refine
To bad it's illegal in the EU to replace old lamps with aftermarket LED.
same in US for states that require safety inspections
Headlights in US must be DOT approved else they are illegal and installing them otherwise is grounds for negligence in the event of an accident you cause.
@@oldtwinsna8347 dot regulations are laughable. They help somewhat, but are pretty old school and waaaay too restrictive, preventing stuff such as flashing brake lights (for example, to grab someone's attention more in case the car in front brakes hard) while also allowing brake lights to be used as turn signals (which not only reduces their reliability, as a single bulb is pulling double-duty, but makes it harder to determine what the driver is doing, since you distinguish a brake light from a turn signal by behavior, not by color). They also prevent cool technologies, like those headlights from BMW or Audi that use high beams but at the same time don't blind people by selectively turning them off in certain areas.
Also, many cars have LEDs in weird reflectors (namely Teslas and newer Hondas) and those *factory* headlights which are DOT approved are really blinding. They just lazily throw light everywhere and they're worse than my aftermarket non DOT approved HID retrofit.
Been replacing my regular lights with LED's and even custom made a pair of LED tail lights for years and I always pass state inspection. As long as the colors are right and they are in a DOT approved housing, I guess you should have no issues.
uRiBiTo666 Where the fuck do you get all this bullshit? Tail lights as turn signals has been a thing since forever. Not a damn thing wrong with how they worked.
LED flasher relay instead of all these resistors!
That’s also a better option.
But realize modern vehicles are integrated behind the speedometer gauge.
The best way to get an led bulbs without dealing the hyperflash, he get an led bulb with a built in resistors. Much simpler
5:40 Still using slot screws? What is this, 1960?
If it ain’t broken, don’t fix it
At 4:30, why not just replace the flasher with an appropriate replacement?
stuff it, keep the hyper flash. why burn resistors just so it flashes slower.. fast makes people notice it more. lol
Phizicks like he said, hyper flash looks very amateur...
Just use an electronic flasher. $15 at autozone and you avoid cutting wires. Just remove and replace
Like now, watch later
I just paid $7 for 2 incandescent blinker bulbs vs. $21 for 1 LED, for a 7 year old car. Why the hell would I pay 3 times as much for 1 less bulb? Believe me, you can see my blinker bulbs just fine without them being a lighthouse beacon
Because the higher the quality led bulbs. The higher the price. It’s worth it. Even if it’s on a older vehicle.
It’s a boring no fun slow on and slow off.
Swan invented the light bulb.
is this CNET on Cars?
Yes it is
when is the paid Cooley show?
Can we out LED bulbs on our halogen headlights?
check your local laws first. if your state requires safety inspections you may cause it to fail. besides, you'll end up blinding oncoming traffic.
@@hjc0706it only depends how bright and how much wattage it makes for an led bulbs.
@@toyotabrony no it doesn't, as 100% of the led retrofits on the market are not DOT marked nor will they ever be. The only true legal way is to replace the lamp all together with a DOT marked lamp.
@@hjc0706 most likely none of the led especially for headligths will not be dot.
But I still upgrade to led. It’s better,safer, brighter, and smarter. Because it alerts other drivers better.
Yes u can. If u see other vehicles that came with halogen or incandescent bulbs and switch to LED’s all the time or even HID’s, go head slap on ur vehicle and enjoy it. 🤘🏼
America should adopt indicator (flasher/blinker) dedicated lights like the rest of the world instead of being so cheap.
It's more of a design choice than a cost concern. For example, German car makers build cars for the North American market with red turn signals, despite selling those cars with amber turn signals elsewhere.
Actually it was invented by Joseph Wilson Swan not Edison.
When you turn off a bulb it's still on. A little bit of current is still flowing. You generally need an LED to see it. That constant current causes incandescent bulbs to run hot & that heat travels everywhere in the vehicle that is connected to the same wires. My instrument cluster during hot days would cut out randomly. I changed all of the socketed bulbs to LED, never saw the problem again. Yes that instrument cluster circuit board solder joints & capacitors are probably visibly damaged.
Nice, but up the game and use proper wire connectors. The ones used are so lame.
why to distrub company wirings... doesn't sounds good...
It’s common
just dont do led mod on blinkers, leave it for the position light, brake light and reverse only
U can get a built in resistor led bulbs nowadays
you can get LED bulbs that won't hyper flash, but they are $40+ for two.
Only for few minutes I believe and will start doing it
@@WaleedZanbaginot anymore. With a decoding update. It’s much better and no need to worry hyperflash as they will hold more than 30 minutes
Depends on the brand ur lookin at.
From $30-$160 bucks a pair for led turn signals. It’s true
00:58 You can see a mask has been added in post to darken the incandescent bulb... Editing trickery.
It's not _editing trickery._
It's called *automatic aperture.* Most cameras have it these days.
And it should obviously be turned off when making a video about lights.
@@rafaelgsbr issue is, that's typically a feature available only in super high end cameras, like, Hollywood movie style cameras. Haven't seen a camera that let you disable automatic aperture since when Film Cameras were still popular. And sure CNet is big budget, but I doubt they're using that fancy of a camera
O, common @@cpufreak101 , my phone has it when I put the camera in a PRO mode.
I guess, they just should have used the phone to do the video. At least the part with lights in it.
Just let it hyper flash, baby! More flashes the better.
Wrong. It makes it look cheap and it’s annoying. Never go full hyperflash.
yeah that LED tail light/turn signal solution isn't pretty nor is it an easy upgrade. Most newer are have CANBUS so putting in a LED tail lamp bulb may flash an error on your dash...which it did for me with my 16 focus so I went back to the good ol-edison bulbs. The best way to get LED tail lights is to buy the an LED tail lamp assembly, they are expensive but gets around the pitfalls of going over LED in the first place and best of all you done have to mess with any of those stinking DIY resistors.
Get a led bulb with a built in resistors and canbus as well. Those will have no problems.