Thanks much for posting this video cause its helping me alot, especially the worry of the air conditioning lines in the way up top,..I have the exact same car but a 2003 Kia Rio and I am sure the alternator bearing is worn, I need to replace the alternator,..I figured out from the bottom would indeed need removing the axle, just no room. I don't really have a choice but to replace it, ....parts store O Reilly's alternator is $200 which I might trust more than a ebay bought alternator. My starter, it works fine, don't think I will replace it, looks like a nightmare to replace anyway. Some years ago, bout twenty thousand miles or less ago, I replaced the timing belt/roller. I used this as a work car for years to save on wear and tear of good vehicles.
I used the O’Reilly alternator and it seems to be running fine, the service manual says to replace the timing belt every 30,000 miles which seems wrong to me so I do it every 60,000 miles, it’s a pain to change, never done a starter, I have done the front wheel bearings.
@@ranger.auto.repair I was a couple days ago concerned the engine is bout to blow, from worn rod bearings,...but I think I have some time left on the engine when I put the alternator in, ..then later for entertainment purposes I will attempt to put rod bearings in with the engine still in the car just to say I done some thing like that. My new alternator passed the "field test" at o'relly's before I paid for it, meaning they tested it as a properly manufactured alternator,..."passed",...the main reason I bought local and not something off of ebay or other.
(2003 kia rio 1.6L and original mando 80 amp alternator)....I finally got around to doing the alternator, change out just as in the video, had to force the alternator past the AC aluminum line as mentioned, both ways, no biggy. I had troubles putting on new belts, where I struggled to get the alternator belt on and the power steering belt I had to remove the tensioner assembly to get the new belt on then reinstalled of course,...likely should have not installed the tensioner assembly for the alternator before belt was put on too. No room to really get my hands in there,...but I have smaller hands and I really should have done alot of things with the front motor mount still disconnected,...just the horizontal bolt and nut and not the two top nuts,....should have did alot more with the engine jacked up as far as I could get it.....I had the car on plastic car ramps on the front wheels,...used harbor freight high lift jack with some pieces of wood on the saddle to push up the engine on the oil pan,...that way I could later get underneath to put in the pivot bolt,...used a allen L wrench instead of a piece of brake line as mentioned in the video. Alternator was of course an o'reilly's bought that was tested before I paid for the new rebuilt mando...and alternator of course charges fine all installed. I discovered the older alternator belt was really cracked up and bad and the older alternator a person can hear the rear bearing rubbing it seems I almost consider rebuilding it an making some sort of project out of it like a wind mill battery charger instead of getting my $40 core charge, but likely will get my core charge back, that would be a cool project though if I ever did one. I don't know if there was actually a difference in a kia or mando alternator, I really doubt there as much difference,....the new rebuilt alternator has no markings or tag on it denoting mando 80,.....so there was likely no difference most likely,....seems like mandos were made in Malaysia for kia, thats all from what I see on the original alternator.
I’m glad you brought that up because I was going to do it that way, however there’s a bracket that holds the front oxygen sensor wire and the passenger side axle in the way, to do it from underneath you have to pull the axle and remove that bracket and with the amount of rust on that car and my luck with axles it’s just easier to lift the engine and take it from the top.
If your doing a total belt change, you loosen up the belt from the power steering first by turning the long bolt and pressing down on the pump until the belt comes loose, then if your able to access and turn the same long bolt on the alternator you’d loosen that bolt and pull the alternator towards the engine. If your car is rusted like mine I loosen the lower mount bolt so I can move the alternator then loosen the keeper for the long bolt then pull the alternator towards the engine.
My new remanufactured alternator locked up,...and apparently the bearings are no good, with just bout 50 miles on it, damaged the belt, and noticed there was squeal of the belt sometimes shortly after install, just thought it was the belt. Anyway, O Reilly;s getting me a replacement and a replacement belt, going out for the ordeal of removing the recent one, and praying that the replacement will be good. It happens these days, where my brother had a new nissan front wheel drive axle support bearing replaced in the steering knuckle this year and 2000 miles later the bearing failed,..and the tire/suspension shop replaced it again for free. I figure its cheap chinese bearings at fault. I don't know what I will do if I have to do it a third time,.......I should have retained the core I turned in and rebuilt it, for a big removal job like this.
Did your alternator have bits of belt on the front of it because my wife’s Kia, the one in the video she says it squeals in the morning then when it’s warm it runs fine.
@@ranger.auto.repair It sure does have belt material all over the front of alternator, and I was making all sure it wasn't something else,....black powdery all over the front of alternator. Wasn't nothing I done, have owned the car for eleven almost twelve years, always note to put in belts with proper tension, not overdone, etc, have done three belts sets in those years,....strange I was replacing my other alternator to avoid this issue!
@@ranger.auto.repair You said the belt squeals more when cold,...that was the same with mine,...worse when cold, leading up to total failure,...I ran the engine more than I should have before starting the work,...sort of stopped squealing a little when warm, then every so often a bad squeal,..but its fried, I assure you the "brand new" bearings....I am so disgusted,...trying to find ways of not taking off completely so many things. I needed this car for another trip thirty miles away and back to pick up some medical paperwork for the VA,...couldn't go, but I trust my old truck for in town till I complete its work.
I’m going to pull the belts and spin the pulley if I hear even the slightest noise all hells gonna break loose..I’ve had issues with alternators in cars in the past and I have no patience for it. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks much for posting this video cause its helping me alot, especially the worry of the air conditioning lines in the way up top,..I have the exact same car but a 2003 Kia Rio and I am sure the alternator bearing is worn, I need to replace the alternator,..I figured out from the bottom would indeed need removing the axle, just no room. I don't really have a choice but to replace it, ....parts store O Reilly's alternator is $200 which I might trust more than a ebay bought alternator. My starter, it works fine, don't think I will replace it, looks like a nightmare to replace anyway. Some years ago, bout twenty thousand miles or less ago, I replaced the timing belt/roller. I used this as a work car for years to save on wear and tear of good vehicles.
I used the O’Reilly alternator and it seems to be running fine, the service manual says to replace the timing belt every 30,000 miles which seems wrong to me so I do it every 60,000 miles, it’s a pain to change, never done a starter, I have done the front wheel bearings.
@@ranger.auto.repair I was a couple days ago concerned the engine is bout to blow, from worn rod bearings,...but I think I have some time left on the engine when I put the alternator in, ..then later for entertainment purposes I will attempt to put rod bearings in with the engine still in the car just to say I done some thing like that. My new alternator passed the "field test" at o'relly's before I paid for it, meaning they tested it as a properly manufactured alternator,..."passed",...the main reason I bought local and not something off of ebay or other.
Did my timing belt twice the other day. A 2 hr job took me half a day.
Wow! I did the timing belt on my wife’s Kia and I don’t remember how long it took, it’s a lot like doing the ones in the ford 2.0 spi engines.
(2003 kia rio 1.6L and original mando 80 amp alternator)....I finally got around to doing the alternator, change out just as in the video, had to force the alternator past the AC aluminum line as mentioned, both ways, no biggy. I had troubles putting on new belts, where I struggled to get the alternator belt on and the power steering belt I had to remove the tensioner assembly to get the new belt on then reinstalled of course,...likely should have not installed the tensioner assembly for the alternator before belt was put on too. No room to really get my hands in there,...but I have smaller hands and I really should have done alot of things with the front motor mount still disconnected,...just the horizontal bolt and nut and not the two top nuts,....should have did alot more with the engine jacked up as far as I could get it.....I had the car on plastic car ramps on the front wheels,...used harbor freight high lift jack with some pieces of wood on the saddle to push up the engine on the oil pan,...that way I could later get underneath to put in the pivot bolt,...used a allen L wrench instead of a piece of brake line as mentioned in the video. Alternator was of course an o'reilly's bought that was tested before I paid for the new rebuilt mando...and alternator of course charges fine all installed. I discovered the older alternator belt was really cracked up and bad and the older alternator a person can hear the rear bearing rubbing it seems I almost consider rebuilding it an making some sort of project out of it like a wind mill battery charger instead of getting my $40 core charge, but likely will get my core charge back, that would be a cool project though if I ever did one. I don't know if there was actually a difference in a kia or mando alternator, I really doubt there as much difference,....the new rebuilt alternator has no markings or tag on it denoting mando 80,.....so there was likely no difference most likely,....seems like mandos were made in Malaysia for kia, thats all from what I see on the original alternator.
Would it not be easier to do this from under the vehicle?
I’m glad you brought that up because I was going to do it that way, however there’s a bracket that holds the front oxygen sensor wire and the passenger side axle in the way, to do it from underneath you have to pull the axle and remove that bracket and with the amount of rust on that car and my luck with axles it’s just easier to lift the engine and take it from the top.
Hey how was you able to get the belt on the alternator
If your doing a total belt change, you loosen up the belt from the power steering first by turning the long bolt and pressing down on the pump until the belt comes loose, then if your able to access and turn the same long bolt on the alternator you’d loosen that bolt and pull the alternator towards the engine. If your car is rusted like mine I loosen the lower mount bolt so I can move the alternator then loosen the keeper for the long bolt then pull the alternator towards the engine.
My new remanufactured alternator locked up,...and apparently the bearings are no good, with just bout 50 miles on it, damaged the belt, and noticed there was squeal of the belt sometimes shortly after install, just thought it was the belt. Anyway, O Reilly;s getting me a replacement and a replacement belt, going out for the ordeal of removing the recent one, and praying that the replacement will be good. It happens these days, where my brother had a new nissan front wheel drive axle support bearing replaced in the steering knuckle this year and 2000 miles later the bearing failed,..and the tire/suspension shop replaced it again for free. I figure its cheap chinese bearings at fault. I don't know what I will do if I have to do it a third time,.......I should have retained the core I turned in and rebuilt it, for a big removal job like this.
Did your alternator have bits of belt on the front of it because my wife’s Kia, the one in the video she says it squeals in the morning then when it’s warm it runs fine.
@@ranger.auto.repair It sure does have belt material all over the front of alternator, and I was making all sure it wasn't something else,....black powdery all over the front of alternator. Wasn't nothing I done, have owned the car for eleven almost twelve years, always note to put in belts with proper tension, not overdone, etc, have done three belts sets in those years,....strange I was replacing my other alternator to avoid this issue!
@@budwhite3570 hmm I wonder if I’m about to go down the same road you are..
@@ranger.auto.repair You said the belt squeals more when cold,...that was the same with mine,...worse when cold, leading up to total failure,...I ran the engine more than I should have before starting the work,...sort of stopped squealing a little when warm, then every so often a bad squeal,..but its fried, I assure you the "brand new" bearings....I am so disgusted,...trying to find ways of not taking off completely so many things. I needed this car for another trip thirty miles away and back to pick up some medical paperwork for the VA,...couldn't go, but I trust my old truck for in town till I complete its work.
I’m going to pull the belts and spin the pulley if I hear even the slightest noise all hells gonna break loose..I’ve had issues with alternators in cars in the past and I have no patience for it. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Ugly adventure 😂🤣