As usual, you are spot on with your findings. I now have both of these, and 2 corded Makitas. Why? because I confirmed that the bases for the Makita corded and cordless were interchangeable. It was cheaper to the the full blown corded kit with all the bases, the big fence, the little bearing guide you showed, and a case than to buy the bases for either separately. As a bonus, the big square soft case has room for all of them! While I find the Milwaukee had slightly more power, I wouldn't have noticed if I ran them 5 minutes apart. While I really like the fine adjust, I haven't had any issues with the Makita. I find if you don't let the clamp open all the way, you can use the rack and pinion with good accuracy. But you have to find the sweet spot with the clamp. Yes you can stall them out, but they have an amazing amount of power for what they are. You can run pretty large bits and get a great finish if you just go slow and stead, which can be problematic when cutting dados in some woods. Provided you mind your direction of cut it's no problem. If the dust extraction is crap, turn the tool until you find the sweet spot where the chips are naturally flying and it does quite well with both units. The collet wrenches on the Milwaukee are the same size as on the M18 and M12 die grinders and the M18 drywall cutout tool. The collets and nuts appear to be interchangeable but are different part numbers and I haven't tried interchanging them. The collets or the nuts or both together as one part number. The collet is retained in the nut, but will pop out easily if you press on it. The cutout tool comes with both 1/4 and 1/8in collets. When I have time, I will see if they are interchangeable in all these tools. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THAT THE COLLET IS INSTALLED IN THE NUT UNTIL IT CLICKS INTO PLACE BEFORE YOU INSTALL A BIT, or you will have big issues removing bits. Good job testing it with a large bit and deep cut. You need to know what its limits are. The good thing about the electronic protection circuitry is that you CAN use bigger bit and not worry about burning the tool up. The Makita, as usual is a bit smoother running, but the Milwaukee still gives excellent results with no surface finish differences. You can put a smaller 2, 3, or 4ah battery for little easy jobs, or a bigger 6, 8, 9, or 12ah battery on the Milwaukee for mega runtime, but it gets a bit top heavy with a 12ah running on the standard base. These are both fair dinkum great tools. You can't go wrong with either one in my opinion.
Yes about partially clamping the Makita for fine adjustments. I see a lot of videos placing a large emphasis on the TTI routers having that fine adjustment mechanism (Ryobi was first actually, then Ridgid and Milwaukee just recycled it along with most of the rest of the Ryobi template). Now I do actually think it’s neat and I like how Ryobi innovates a lot. However the moment you realize you can just partially engage the Makita clamp then adjust as finely as you desire before fully locking it down it’s every bit as accurate without all the extra parts, clutter, and compromises to compatibility that the TTI units have. Sometimes simple is better and I’d prefer Makita NOT try to add any fine adjust on future cordless routers.
@@kenshirogenjuro873 I mostly agree. I'd PREFER a fine adjust, but again, it's not a big deal. The compatiblility issue would be Makita's fault for not including it in the original corded model in the first place, which they should have IMO. But again, it's not a big deal. But having a fine adjust with graduations is handy. The TTI thing? I don't really KNOW what goes on there. IDK if the divisions are independent and competing, are they all graduated test beds for the Milwaukee platform? IDK. Clearly, there is some crossover. Some tools are just way too similar for them not to be sharing, at least to some degree. What I DO know is that the quality and durability of all TTI brands is graduated with the tool pricing. Consumer grade=Ryobi, Pro-sumer grade=Rigid, Professional grade= Milwaukee. Strangly though, Milwaukee kind of has their own tiered structure within the brand. I don't buy Ryobi. Burnt a few times in the past, not going there. I could see getting an oddball tool that they make for a special job, single use, don't care if it breaks tomorrow, I need it today, situation.
Well TTI bought three companies that were previously unrelated, and my perspective just is that the transition in how they are managed from being previously completely independent into more and more integrated is ongoing. So what we are seeing recently more of is they are overlapping templates for a lot of tools. For a while Milwaukee was mostly allowed to keep their general market identity, R&D etc while there was a lot more overlap between Ridgid and Ryobi, to the point where a lot of their products felt like rebadges of each other. Now it seems there is increasing overlap with Milwaukee products using assorted Ryobi products as templates for their own new offerings, this one being probably the biggest standout. It’s sensible for TTI if they are trying to expand Milwaukee further into carpentry territory and want to cut down development and production costs and Ryobi already has a lot of products in the market. Personally I do use Ryobi as my backup platform (behind Makita) because of the assortments of tools they have that no one else does. And it’s interesting to me that while a lot of their tools continue to be inexpensive DIY, some of their products are actually built to higher quality standards than others, which is good to me, because I don’t want my tools to be too disposable. Their heat gun is essentially identical to the Milwaukee. I definitely appreciate where they do this because I’m not personally interested in picking up another battery platform if I can avoid it.
I run both Makita and Milwaukee platforms because I believe that not one tool is the best at everything so I get to choose the best from two great platforms. In this case the Milwaukee router wins over the Makita because of the better micro adjustment and the rapid brake stop which is safer when operating the tool. Nice video.
Agree. I run bosch and milwalkee because it is the best fit for me. Milwalkee very powerful particularly drill driver and impact stuff , bosch durable and awesome sds and saws. Bosch procore the best batteries in the business. Dewalt great price on entry level tools and massive variety. Bring new tools out fast but dewalt battery systems are absolute chaos.
@Tools & Stuff. Thanks for a great, thorough, and honest review. It's too bad you lost that footage on the Milwaukee. Makita is my primary battery platform but also have some Dewalt, Ridgid, and just began into Milwaukee. Don't have a cordless compact or trim router so your opinion really helps when a good deal is available for either one. In the US, there are more deals with Milwaukee than Makita now. We'll see what the Christmas holiday holds. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
This is a perfect example where I would possibly go for the Milwaukee or Dewalt even though all my 18v is Makita and just get the Makita battery adaptor. Plug the gaps with other manufacturers where Makita falls short and keep the same batteries.... I just wish Makita brought out a slim pack 2.5ah in Samsung 25R cells or 3.0ah in the Samsung 30Q cells. Great content btw. I can't believe the engineers OK'd the adjustment system on the Makita it is embarrassing. Thumbs up as always, just subbed to your other Build & Stuff channel didn't know you had it.
I don't care how hard you tighten the base on the Milwaukee, it always moves during operation. Drastically. I've adjusted the little allen screw to the point where it feels I'm going to break it and it still moves.
Very nice little machines, I have them both, using them for edge routing ( roundovers, coved, etc). Basically Milwaukee have copied almost exactly the concept and the design of the Makita, the two really are like twins in different colours, with slightly different adjustment knobs. Can't really find difference in power ( although all the other test state that the Milwaukee should be stronger..). The Makita runs smoother though. The standard base on the Makita is just too small and wobbles easily when routing edges, i made myself a larger wooden one. That standard base is the only flow on the Makita in my opinion ( still fixable). The depth adjustment on the Makita is actually very good and not really an issue, you can after all fix it precisely up to the mm-notch you want in a second, just as on the Milwaukee. I make use of both of the routers, because i make a lot of edge routing and it has to go by a few passes. But if I have to choose one, considering power/ comfort/ price - it would be the Makita - similar quality, power, comfort and usability( and even runs smoother) , but cheaper here in the UK. If you happen to have the Millaukee and hear strange whining noise when you turn it off - don't get freaked out ( like i did) - it is the router bit ring keeps spinning, because the bit stops on a dime :))
I don't believe you're supposed to use the fine adjustment on the Milwaukee with the clamp close as it will strip the threads and judging by how easily your turning the fine adjustment with the clamp closed I would say the clamp needs to be adjusted tighter.
Hiya great video, as a novice I was wondering what that makita bit was that you had with your corded tool you mentioned that you thought should come with every router.
When using Milwaukee Fuel tools to get best possible performance you need to use the High Output batteries it makes a big difference, more power, higher efficiency, longer run time due to less energy being transferred to heat and they run cooler. Good video though, keep up the good work! . 👍
I'd really like to see a review on the ddf083 makita, Its very difficult to get over here in the U.S. I'll have to pay $60 just in shipping to get one because we dont get that model here, or the df032. Wish there was good review on it so I could make up my mind on it. They are all in foreign languages haha. Love the vids man thanks for the content
I own both routers. Milwaukee and Makita are my top 2 companies. I’ve held the Dewalt 20v Max XR router in store and what I didn’t like about it was how wide it was but heard it has lots of power. Any thoughts on checking out the Dewalt? Here in the U.S., they use the 20v max even though down under they have to market as 18v kind of funny it’s like that.
I was about to ask this question. I'm trying to decide on which platform, the Dewalt or Milwaukee. The Dewalt is much wider. I don't think it comes with a straight edge or dust collector. Must be purchased separately. Wondering which router is better also.
@@marcosvaldes8910 a joiner I know here in Scotland has various battery platforms but had said to me that if he was to have the option to buy all over again he would prefer DeWalt, with the exception of the gasless nailer, mainly because the tools all seem to have the same ergonomics when handling them. I myself mostly use Makita simply because I started buying their stuff when the 18v li-ion platform came out and I've had good reliability from both batteries and tool ever since. To be perfectly honest you will struggle to find a bad brand throughout all the big names, they all have their faults. They are all fighting over themselves to be the most advanced,etc to the benefit of us end users. We're actually spoiled for choice now.
20v max is still technically 18v power.. they just call it 20v so they don't have to pay royalties to milwaukee bc they patented 18v batteries...(seems a bit against patented laws as far as something being "obvious") Kobalt does the same with 24v.. that being said the Dewalt power is supposed to be fantastic and have unbelievable run time on a 5 a.h. battery.. like 2 or 3 times as good as the others. I only buy makita tools(with exception of Metabo cordless nail guns and table saw.) I love the makita router and using it with my track saw tracks.. the Dewalt one is pretty sweet though.
I had a mind to inform him what the 1/64 meant ...but if I being a lifelong New Yorker can read metric then certainly as a woodworker he can as well. But the smirk about a yankee doodle version was spot on.
@@maggiemartinez4098 no offense but being American and knowing metric is not the same European dosent use Standard or Sae at all its not even taught in schools there unless your in a very special field that you travel and do business in the usa a ton I have family that live in England and they didnt even know how 64ths or sae standred works there imperial and metric only ... not trying to be rude but your comment was kinda rude
Thanks I got the Milwaukee since I already own plenty of m18 and m12 tools batteries and chargers. It seems you can get both at the 120-130$ range at Amazon (at the time of speaking and tool only) so get what you got batteries for otherwise get which one that better fits your preferences.
I am still learning to use properly the makita router. That's what I have and I found that the adaptor bits for other sizes other than the 6mm that came inside the router can't do a proper job. That aside my bits sometimes set loose while the router is on - maybe because the wood is a hard type. So it's a tool I am not so confident to use, lol.
Make sure the bits are 6.35mm, not 6mm. The 6mm bits will not tighten up enough and come loose easily. If you have 6mm bits you can buy another collet. I just had a look on ebay for the guy I got mine from but can't find it. Most of the listings that say 6mm/6.36mm are shit. You nee the long shaped one like the original Makita. Makita do also make one if you can find it.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL here in Brazil default is 6mm - but they sell also 1/4". My router came with 6mm, but first time I bought bits, they were 1/4". So I tried to buy adaptor bits from makita and none of them served well. So I just use 6mm bits - and with hard wood (peroba) they flew from the router, lol. and just this one who flew, is a original Makita. The others mostly are from a low cost chinese reseller.
Hehhee what a treat, I had to make this decision a long time ago, can't wait to see how these compare, 2 reason I went with Milwaukee instead of makita. #1 there was a kit sale for the Milwaukee and it was my way into the platform. #2 the micro adjustment on the milwuakee seemed to work better and the makitas seemed non existant, of course I based that info off of other TH-cam videos
As an American, I hate imperial system. I wish we would switch. yeah yeah, fractions have benefits, but honestly it's easier to convert fractions in tenths than 64ths if you need to.
For $32 more than the Milwaukee you can buy the Makita 18v Laminate Trimmer kit in Australia, which comes with the plunge base, tilt base, trimmer guide, dust attachments for both standard and plunge base, 1/4" and 3/8" collets and a plastic connector case. Couldn't pass up the extra value and went with the Makita kit instead.
Have you tested the Milwaukee with an 8.0? Also have you tested the 8.0 with the plunge base or the wider base plate I think they included it to help balance the tool with bigger battery
What sells Makita to me is the fact that you can get parts for them and repair the tool if they break or wear something out. Basically gives the tool at least 2x the useable lifetime because most of the time when a tool fails its one parts or a couple of parts that are worn out. Like take a large rotary hammer or demolition hammer those are 500-1000 bucks and they can go trough two or three service kits before they are done a kit is less than 100 bucks each so it is expected that the machine is serviced instead of dumped. Milwaukee is almost impossible to repair. More difficult to get parts and they love to group parts into assemblies that are the same price as the tool or even more as insane as that sounds. Bosch Professional and Metabo are also very good about reparability. Bosch would get an A+ grade because they sell parts directly to you atleast in Europe and the pricing is reasonable while Makita and Metabo distribute trough 3rd party vendors. Then there is the warranty, 1 year warranty only for Milwaukee in Europe so a complete scam because the tool will last a year but break afterwards. Hilti is a complete joke their machines are as good as Makita, Bosch, Metabo etc but 3x the price and cannot be serviced or repaired by anybody else than Hilti themselves. Complete conjob this brand a straight up scam.
I'm not sure if you're serious or just tongue in cheek with the "yankee doodle quip". 😆😂🤣. But just in case it's 1/64th of an inch mate. Thanks for sharing your experience with these two tools that are almost impossible not to compare. Especially if you're already invested in both platforms. Your fans from across the pond. 👍🏾
Also for the Milwaukee locking system you can use wenches instead of pressing the button, it gives you two wrenches. Also I have the Milwaukee plunge base ( you have to buy it separate) it works well.
Tighten the nut of the makita adjustment just a little bit. It will work way better and will be a little tighter so it doenst move while closing the machanism.
hey which cordless trim router do you think is the quietest if there is such a thing i have tinnitus and need to go with the one that runs the most quietest
Japanese products are made to be reliable. American product not so much, they are made with maximizing the profit in mind. That's why I allways buy Japanese products. But I totally understand Americans buying American brands. We in Europe go for quality and reliability.
@@suzesiviter6083 All apple products are manufactured in China. Are you telling me apple is Chinese? Makita is Japanese, so they design and control and do the quality check. I have much more truat in a Japanese brand than a US brand. Even Chinese brands do better than US brands. So I rather give my money to Japanese and Chinese.
@@suzesiviter6083 You are right, thas does not apply to all companies of that particular country, but I think you know the quality is most of the time fine if the brand is Japanse, German or Swiss. The same used to apply for American products, but since some decades they went for quantity instead of quality. That's why I don't buy American brands. So, no American cars, no phones, no machines etc.
@@u.d.7543 Agree, I like yourself go for the quality tools and they are not sourced in China, though my power tools are Milwaukee and I know they are no longer built in the USA, so they must be giving the Chinese manufacturers strict instructions on building them, as I haven't had any problems at all so far. Unfortunately even the great tools from Germany, England and so on seem to degrade in quality with each product modification. Japanese however still seem to make quality the number 1 goal on the pro tools, though you might have to mortgage your house to buy them).
For every review that says Makita... There's one that says Milwaukee. Or dare I say, DeWalt. I think that when they are that close, pick the colour you like, or the cheaper, or the one you have a battery for already.
Festool is all looks and poor quality, god knows why the carpenters all go for that chincy piece of overpriced junk. Bosch? only if its the Blue grade, the green is snot coloured for a reason.
Milwaukee took 26 months to copy/improve on Makita yet failed to alter design enough to allow a 1/2" collet. Fail. Sure these little routers don't have the guts to spin giant raised panel bits, but I have plenty of small cutter 1/2" shank bits that I'd rather not have to duplicate in 1/4" to run in a cordless tool. 1/2" bits make for smoother cuts too. The non round motor housing of Milwaukee will make DIY fixtures slightly more complicated and you'll have to plan for clocking position.
@@kenshirogenjuro873 No, I want to spin my existing collection of 1/2" shanked small cutter bits with a small one battery powered router now. This isn't a difficult concept.
I just got my Milwaukee router set, the whole set, everything, including the HD box and offset, EU version (Germany), cost me a kidney too! problem is, in Europe we use 8mm bits, that's the most popular, common standard here, I guess it's a legacy from the pro corded era. anyway, so far, I can't use my router because all my bits are high end 8mm shaft bits, and the only collet they included was the 6mm, and please keep it metric, be civilized, cmon, the imperial shouldn't even exist at this point, even the UK, the originating imperialists, adopted the metric system long ago, as did the US, before some bizarre series of events pushed this universal system into oblivion over there! sad.. very sad. and confusing, to the rest of the world. please, people, can anyone help me here, I have a Bosh Pro router, corded and the little cordless 12v thing, also brushless, none of the collets fit the new milwaukee, the thread is different, stepping and diameter, and of course Milwaukee won't offer the 8mm, why should they listen to demand or common sense. I have about 100 router bitts, very expensive, high end pro bits, all, but really, every single one of them with the 8mm shaft, and I'm not alone. I wrote to Milwaukee Germany, Milwaukee EU, Milwaukee.com, nothing! I reached out to other brands, but they just shut me down fast, claiming their collets only fit their own tools, period! I really don't want to get every bit I need in 6mm again, this is ridiculous, I never thought this would be so hard! does anyone know, do these other brands offer 8mm collets that would fit the new Milwaukee? I read the comment just below mine, the collets for the die grinders, both 6 and 8mm collets are incompatible with the thread, same as my Bosch routers, nothing seems to fit the new milwaukee router! that's why I'm reaching out, pretty desperately, at this point, and palpably frustrated. thank you!
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As usual, you are spot on with your findings. I now have both of these, and 2 corded Makitas. Why? because I confirmed that the bases for the Makita corded and cordless were interchangeable. It was cheaper to the the full blown corded kit with all the bases, the big fence, the little bearing guide you showed, and a case than to buy the bases for either separately. As a bonus, the big square soft case has room for all of them!
While I find the Milwaukee had slightly more power, I wouldn't have noticed if I ran them 5 minutes apart. While I really like the fine adjust, I haven't had any issues with the Makita. I find if you don't let the clamp open all the way, you can use the rack and pinion with good accuracy. But you have to find the sweet spot with the clamp.
Yes you can stall them out, but they have an amazing amount of power for what they are. You can run pretty large bits and get a great finish if you just go slow and stead, which can be problematic when cutting dados in some woods. Provided you mind your direction of cut it's no problem.
If the dust extraction is crap, turn the tool until you find the sweet spot where the chips are naturally flying and it does quite well with both units.
The collet wrenches on the Milwaukee are the same size as on the M18 and M12 die grinders and the M18 drywall cutout tool. The collets and nuts appear to be interchangeable but are different part numbers and I haven't tried interchanging them. The collets or the nuts or both together as one part number. The collet is retained in the nut, but will pop out easily if you press on it. The cutout tool comes with both 1/4 and 1/8in collets. When I have time, I will see if they are interchangeable in all these tools. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THAT THE COLLET IS INSTALLED IN THE NUT UNTIL IT CLICKS INTO PLACE BEFORE YOU INSTALL A BIT, or you will have big issues removing bits.
Good job testing it with a large bit and deep cut. You need to know what its limits are. The good thing about the electronic protection circuitry is that you CAN use bigger bit and not worry about burning the tool up.
The Makita, as usual is a bit smoother running, but the Milwaukee still gives excellent results with no surface finish differences. You can put a smaller 2, 3, or 4ah battery for little easy jobs, or a bigger 6, 8, 9, or 12ah battery on the Milwaukee for mega runtime, but it gets a bit top heavy with a 12ah running on the standard base.
These are both fair dinkum great tools. You can't go wrong with either one in my opinion.
Replies like yours are the reason I scroll through the comments. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes about partially clamping the Makita for fine adjustments. I see a lot of videos placing a large emphasis on the TTI routers having that fine adjustment mechanism (Ryobi was first actually, then Ridgid and Milwaukee just recycled it along with most of the rest of the Ryobi template). Now I do actually think it’s neat and I like how Ryobi innovates a lot. However the moment you realize you can just partially engage the Makita clamp then adjust as finely as you desire before fully locking it down it’s every bit as accurate without all the extra parts, clutter, and compromises to compatibility that the TTI units have. Sometimes simple is better and I’d prefer Makita NOT try to add any fine adjust on future cordless routers.
@@kenshirogenjuro873 I mostly agree. I'd PREFER a fine adjust, but again, it's not a big deal. The compatiblility issue would be Makita's fault for not including it in the original corded model in the first place, which they should have IMO. But again, it's not a big deal. But having a fine adjust with graduations is handy.
The TTI thing? I don't really KNOW what goes on there. IDK if the divisions are independent and competing, are they all graduated test beds for the Milwaukee platform? IDK. Clearly, there is some crossover. Some tools are just way too similar for them not to be sharing, at least to some degree. What I DO know is that the quality and durability of all TTI brands is graduated with the tool pricing. Consumer grade=Ryobi, Pro-sumer grade=Rigid, Professional grade= Milwaukee. Strangly though, Milwaukee kind of has their own tiered structure within the brand. I don't buy Ryobi. Burnt a few times in the past, not going there. I could see getting an oddball tool that they make for a special job, single use, don't care if it breaks tomorrow, I need it today, situation.
Well TTI bought three companies that were previously unrelated, and my perspective just is that the transition in how they are managed from being previously completely independent into more and more integrated is ongoing. So what we are seeing recently more of is they are overlapping templates for a lot of tools. For a while Milwaukee was mostly allowed to keep their general market identity, R&D etc while there was a lot more overlap between Ridgid and Ryobi, to the point where a lot of their products felt like rebadges of each other.
Now it seems there is increasing overlap with Milwaukee products using assorted Ryobi products as templates for their own new offerings, this one being probably the biggest standout. It’s sensible for TTI if they are trying to expand Milwaukee further into carpentry territory and want to cut down development and production costs and Ryobi already has a lot of products in the market.
Personally I do use Ryobi as my backup platform (behind Makita) because of the assortments of tools they have that no one else does. And it’s interesting to me that while a lot of their tools continue to be inexpensive DIY, some of their products are actually built to higher quality standards than others, which is good to me, because I don’t want my tools to be too disposable. Their heat gun is essentially identical to the Milwaukee. I definitely appreciate where they do this because I’m not personally interested in picking up another battery platform if I can avoid it.
I flipped a coin years ago and went Makita. I'm satisfied with the decision, but despite that, I do own some Milwaukee 12-volt stuff.
I did exactly the same thing. Milwaukee has more variety and availability of their 12v stuff. I'm happy with both decisions.
And if you are stupid like me you have Makita, Milwaukee 18 and 12v and this summer I bought my first Festool 18v tool 🤣
Same, I use 18v makita and 12v milwaukee platforms
I run both Makita and Milwaukee platforms because I believe that not one tool is the best at everything so I get to choose the best from two great platforms. In this case the Milwaukee router wins over the Makita because of the better micro adjustment and the rapid brake stop which is safer when operating the tool. Nice video.
Do you have any 3rd party accessories such as custom bases or the milwaukee plunge base?
Agree. I run bosch and milwalkee because it is the best fit for me. Milwalkee very powerful particularly drill driver and impact stuff , bosch durable and awesome sds and saws. Bosch procore the best batteries in the business. Dewalt great price on entry level tools and massive variety. Bring new tools out fast but dewalt battery systems are absolute chaos.
@9:10 lmfao at the flip-flops and socks
Noticed the makita was shooting a ton of dust out the dust port with no vac were the Milwaukee didn't seem to do that at all
Do you have any 3rd party accessories such as custom bases or the milwaukee plunge base?
Nice that the Milwaukee came with large base plate
@Tools & Stuff. Thanks for a great, thorough, and honest review. It's too bad you lost that footage on the Milwaukee. Makita is my primary battery platform but also have some Dewalt, Ridgid, and just began into Milwaukee. Don't have a cordless compact or trim router so your opinion really helps when a good deal is available for either one. In the US, there are more deals with Milwaukee than Makita now. We'll see what the Christmas holiday holds.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
This is a perfect example where I would possibly go for the Milwaukee or Dewalt even though all my 18v is Makita and just get the Makita battery adaptor. Plug the gaps with other manufacturers where Makita falls short and keep the same batteries....
I just wish Makita brought out a slim pack 2.5ah in Samsung 25R cells or 3.0ah in the Samsung 30Q cells.
Great content btw. I can't believe the engineers OK'd the adjustment system on the Makita it is embarrassing.
Thumbs up as always, just subbed to your other Build & Stuff channel didn't know you had it.
I agree @11:16 to @11:42 how we test them is not how we actually use them agree with everything you said
I have both platforms
I bought the Makita the Milwaukee wasn't out yet.
I don't care how hard you tighten the base on the Milwaukee, it always moves during operation. Drastically. I've adjusted the little allen screw to the point where it feels I'm going to break it and it still moves.
Very nice little machines, I have them both, using them for edge routing ( roundovers, coved, etc). Basically Milwaukee have copied almost exactly the concept and the design of the Makita, the two really are like twins in different colours, with slightly different adjustment knobs. Can't really find difference in power ( although all the other test state that the Milwaukee should be stronger..). The Makita runs smoother though. The standard base on the Makita is just too small and wobbles easily when routing edges, i made myself a larger wooden one. That standard base is the only flow on the Makita in my opinion ( still fixable). The depth adjustment on the Makita is actually very good and not really an issue, you can after all fix it precisely up to the mm-notch you want in a second, just as on the Milwaukee. I make use of both of the routers, because i make a lot of edge routing and it has to go by a few passes. But if I have to choose one, considering power/ comfort/ price - it would be the Makita - similar quality, power, comfort and usability( and even runs smoother) , but cheaper here in the UK. If you happen to have the Millaukee and hear strange whining noise when you turn it off - don't get freaked out ( like i did) - it is the router bit ring keeps spinning, because the bit stops on a dime :))
I don't believe you're supposed to use the fine adjustment on the Milwaukee with the clamp close as it will strip the threads and judging by how easily your turning the fine adjustment with the clamp closed I would say the clamp needs to be adjusted tighter.
Hiya great video, as a novice I was wondering what that makita bit was that you had with your corded tool you mentioned that you thought should come with every router.
When using Milwaukee Fuel tools to get best possible performance you need to use the High Output batteries it makes a big difference, more power, higher efficiency, longer run time due to less energy being transferred to heat and they run cooler. Good video though, keep up the good work! . 👍
I'd really like to see a review on the ddf083 makita, Its very difficult to get over here in the U.S. I'll have to pay $60 just in shipping to get one because we dont get that model here, or the df032. Wish there was good review on it so I could make up my mind on it. They are all in foreign languages haha. Love the vids man thanks for the content
I own both routers. Milwaukee and Makita are my top 2 companies. I’ve held the Dewalt 20v Max XR router in store and what I didn’t like about it was how wide it was but heard it has lots of power. Any thoughts on checking out the Dewalt? Here in the U.S., they use the 20v max even though down under they have to market as 18v kind of funny it’s like that.
Same in UK. 18v
I was about to ask this question. I'm trying to decide on which platform, the Dewalt or Milwaukee. The Dewalt is much wider. I don't think it comes with a straight edge or dust collector. Must be purchased separately. Wondering which router is better also.
@@marcosvaldes8910 a joiner I know here in Scotland has various battery platforms but had said to me that if he was to have the option to buy all over again he would prefer DeWalt, with the exception of the gasless nailer, mainly because the tools all seem to have the same ergonomics when handling them. I myself mostly use Makita simply because I started buying their stuff when the 18v li-ion platform came out and I've had good reliability from both batteries and tool ever since. To be perfectly honest you will struggle to find a bad brand throughout all the big names, they all have their faults. They are all fighting over themselves to be the most advanced,etc to the benefit of us end users. We're actually spoiled for choice now.
20v max is still technically 18v power.. they just call it 20v so they don't have to pay royalties to milwaukee bc they patented 18v batteries...(seems a bit against patented laws as far as something being "obvious")
Kobalt does the same with 24v.. that being said the Dewalt power is supposed to be fantastic and have unbelievable run time on a 5 a.h. battery.. like 2 or 3 times as good as the others. I only buy makita tools(with exception of Metabo cordless nail guns and table saw.) I love the makita router and using it with my track saw tracks.. the Dewalt one is pretty sweet though.
Good review the Milwaukee has a bundle kit bow with all the accessories including the plunge base
Yeah got it, if anyone knows how to correctly fit all those parts into the supplied case let me know, its a head-fook.
On the Milwaukee each one of them turns is 1/64th of an inch everytime you reach the 1/64th
I had a mind to inform him what the 1/64 meant ...but if I being a lifelong New Yorker can read metric then certainly as a woodworker he can as well. But the smirk about a yankee doodle version was spot on.
@@maggiemartinez4098 no offense but being American and knowing metric is not the same European dosent use Standard or Sae at all its not even taught in schools there unless your in a very special field that you travel and do business in the usa a ton I have family that live in England and they didnt even know how 64ths or sae standred works there imperial and metric only ... not trying to be rude but your comment was kinda rude
Thanks I got the Milwaukee since I already own plenty of m18 and m12 tools batteries and chargers. It seems you can get both at the 120-130$ range at Amazon (at the time of speaking and tool only) so get what you got batteries for otherwise get which one that better fits your preferences.
The dust extraction on the Milwaukee isn't working well at all @9:00
I am still learning to use properly the makita router. That's what I have and I found that the adaptor bits for other sizes other than the 6mm that came inside the router can't do a proper job. That aside my bits sometimes set loose while the router is on - maybe because the wood is a hard type. So it's a tool I am not so confident to use, lol.
Make sure the bits are 6.35mm, not 6mm. The 6mm bits will not tighten up enough and come loose easily. If you have 6mm bits you can buy another collet. I just had a look on ebay for the guy I got mine from but can't find it. Most of the listings that say 6mm/6.36mm are shit. You nee the long shaped one like the original Makita. Makita do also make one if you can find it.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL here in Brazil default is 6mm - but they sell also 1/4". My router came with 6mm, but first time I bought bits, they were 1/4". So I tried to buy adaptor bits from makita and none of them served well. So I just use 6mm bits - and with hard wood (peroba) they flew from the router, lol. and just this one who flew, is a original Makita. The others mostly are from a low cost chinese reseller.
Hehhee what a treat, I had to make this decision a long time ago, can't wait to see how these compare, 2 reason I went with Milwaukee instead of makita. #1 there was a kit sale for the Milwaukee and it was my way into the platform. #2 the micro adjustment on the milwuakee seemed to work better and the makitas seemed non existant, of course I based that info off of other TH-cam videos
Would love to see you review more Ryobi and (Metabo/Hitachi/Hikoki) power tools. Thanks
I've done quite a lot of Hikoki/ Metabo HPT stuff.
LOVE the socks and jandals bro! Such a Kiwi
The dewalt 20v xr vs the Milwaukee router would be a neet video
As an American, I hate imperial system. I wish we would switch. yeah yeah, fractions have benefits, but honestly it's easier to convert fractions in tenths than 64ths if you need to.
You didn't happen to check to see if the body diameter was the same? Any chance the bases could interchange with some minor tweaks? Thanks
is it good for metal aluminum doors do you think?
For $32 more than the Milwaukee you can buy the Makita 18v Laminate Trimmer kit in Australia, which comes with the plunge base, tilt base, trimmer guide, dust attachments for both standard and plunge base, 1/4" and 3/8" collets and a plastic connector case. Couldn't pass up the extra value and went with the Makita kit instead.
milwaukee and ryobi are the brands of big company like TTI, how they perform together because prices are very different?
if you have plunge base.. why use anythign else, except for tight spaces..?
Haha another great video, I think I'm still happy with my Milwaukee , since I have two Milwaukee batteries ima buy the power head vacuum.
Have you tested the Milwaukee with an 8.0? Also have you tested the 8.0 with the plunge base or the wider base plate I think they included it to help balance the tool with bigger battery
I wish I had the extra mmoney for a router right now, so many projects in mind for one, really like that fuel now. Haha
Home depot has a deal on the makita router right now. $180 for a starter kit and you can pick a free tool from a list. The router is on the list.
What sells Makita to me is the fact that you can get parts for them and repair the tool if they break or wear something out.
Basically gives the tool at least 2x the useable lifetime because most of the time when a tool fails its one parts or a couple of parts that are worn out. Like take a large rotary hammer or demolition hammer those are 500-1000 bucks and they can go trough two or three service kits before they are done a kit is less than 100 bucks each so it is expected that the machine is serviced instead of dumped.
Milwaukee is almost impossible to repair. More difficult to get parts and they love to group parts into assemblies that are the same price as the tool or even more as insane as that sounds.
Bosch Professional and Metabo are also very good about reparability.
Bosch would get an A+ grade because they sell parts directly to you atleast in Europe and the pricing is reasonable while Makita and Metabo distribute trough 3rd party vendors.
Then there is the warranty, 1 year warranty only for Milwaukee in Europe so a complete scam because the tool will last a year but break afterwards.
Hilti is a complete joke their machines are as good as Makita, Bosch, Metabo etc but 3x the price and cannot be serviced or repaired by anybody else than Hilti themselves. Complete conjob this brand a straight up scam.
Great video, thanks
"A couple of wrenches for putting your bits in". Had to go to hospital to get them back out
Spin the dust collector adapter around
You can't
John Donaher has a tool channel?
Yeah I do. It's not all fighting.
The disclaimer at 11:16 quietened my inner pedant
Good review.
Ryobi battery weed sprayer vs propane weed burner ? might be a cool colab ..
I think the propane burner will melt the Ryobi weed sprayer pretty quick
i love makita tools
But it aint Red.
I'm not sure if you're serious or just tongue in cheek with the "yankee doodle quip". 😆😂🤣.
But just in case it's 1/64th of an inch mate. Thanks for sharing your experience with these two tools that are almost impossible not to compare. Especially if you're already invested in both platforms. Your fans from across the pond. 👍🏾
It's English/ Aussie/ Kiwi humour. Don't worry, you're not the first one not to know.😉 Thanks for watching.
Also for the Milwaukee locking system you can use wenches instead of pressing the button, it gives you two wrenches. Also I have the Milwaukee plunge base ( you have to buy it separate) it works well.
The Makita has the 2 wrenches too.
Once you get a guy from Nasa to explain to you how the depth gauge works.
Milwaukee .. nothing but heavy duty ❤
Yeh definitely want to know the limits.
My makita came with that guide that you said yours didnt.
Tighten the nut of the makita adjustment just a little bit. It will work way better and will be a little tighter so it doenst move while closing the machanism.
Idk what the lady in the thumbnail is looking at the camera or off in space 😂😂
hey which cordless trim router do you think is the quietest if there is such a thing i have tinnitus and need to go with the one that runs the most quietest
Probably the new Hikoki. Although once they hit timber they are all load as f...
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thanks for getting back to me. not sure the hikoki is out yet in thr uk i will look out for it. enjoy your no BS tool reviwes
Nice Head to head
Was hoping she test it in the water
th-cam.com/video/02bc4zVEoP4/w-d-xo.html
Japanese products are made to be reliable. American product not so much, they are made with maximizing the profit in mind. That's why I allways buy Japanese products. But I totally understand Americans buying American brands. We in Europe go for quality and reliability.
LOL, you have no idea where Makita is manufactured.
@@suzesiviter6083 All apple products are manufactured in China. Are you telling me apple is Chinese? Makita is Japanese, so they design and control and do the quality check. I have much more truat in a Japanese brand than a US brand. Even Chinese brands do better than US brands. So I rather give my money to Japanese and Chinese.
@@u.d.7543 over simplification, depends on company NOT country of origin.
@@suzesiviter6083 You are right, thas does not apply to all companies of that particular country, but I think you know the quality is most of the time fine if the brand is Japanse, German or Swiss. The same used to apply for American products, but since some decades they went for quantity instead of quality. That's why I don't buy American brands. So, no American cars, no phones, no machines etc.
@@u.d.7543 Agree, I like yourself go for the quality tools and they are not sourced in China, though my power tools are Milwaukee and I know they are no longer built in the USA, so they must be giving the Chinese manufacturers strict instructions on building them, as I haven't had any problems at all so far.
Unfortunately even the great tools from Germany, England and so on seem to degrade in quality with each product modification. Japanese however still seem to make quality the number 1 goal on the pro tools, though you might have to mortgage your house to buy them).
I've always felt that the milwaukee router it's just a makita one with an updated fine adjustment.
Funny guy. Good review.
For every review that says Makita... There's one that says Milwaukee. Or dare I say, DeWalt.
I think that when they are that close, pick the colour you like, or the cheaper, or the one you have a battery for already.
I think makita got a bit lazy with their reputation.
If i was a mechanic i would buy milwaukee but I am not so i use makita,Bosch and festool.
Festool is all looks and poor quality, god knows why the carpenters all go for that chincy piece of overpriced junk.
Bosch? only if its the Blue grade, the green is snot coloured for a reason.
Milwaukee took 26 months to copy/improve on Makita yet failed to alter design enough to allow a 1/2" collet. Fail. Sure these little routers don't have the guts to spin giant raised panel bits, but I have plenty of small cutter 1/2" shank bits that I'd rather not have to duplicate in 1/4" to run in a cordless tool. 1/2" bits make for smoother cuts too. The non round motor housing of Milwaukee will make DIY fixtures slightly more complicated and you'll have to plan for clocking position.
1/2” will have to wait for larger routers. These are trim routers, in practice they are not designed for the kinds of tasks that require 1/2” bits.
@@kenshirogenjuro873 No, I want to spin my existing collection of 1/2" shanked small cutter bits with a small one battery powered router now. This isn't a difficult concept.
If you allowed 1/2" bits in a trim router, you would get idiot's putting massive bits in them causing gyroscopic hand grenades.
Problem could be the socks an the very toed sandels. Hahahahahaha
so where the woman in bra holding the routher that in thumbnail?
You are meant to be here for the routers, not to have a perv.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL the perv is just a bonus
th-cam.com/video/02bc4zVEoP4/w-d-xo.html
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL It was a clickbait move, I hope you are deeply ashamed of yourself!
I just got my Milwaukee router set, the whole set, everything, including the HD box and offset, EU version (Germany), cost me a kidney too! problem is, in Europe we use 8mm bits, that's the most popular, common standard here, I guess it's a legacy from the pro corded era. anyway, so far, I can't use my router because all my bits are high end 8mm shaft bits, and the only collet they included was the 6mm, and please keep it metric, be civilized, cmon, the imperial shouldn't even exist at this point, even the UK, the originating imperialists, adopted the metric system long ago, as did the US, before some bizarre series of events pushed this universal system into oblivion over there! sad.. very sad. and confusing, to the rest of the world. please, people, can anyone help me here, I have a Bosh Pro router, corded and the little cordless 12v thing, also brushless, none of the collets fit the new milwaukee, the thread is different, stepping and diameter, and of course Milwaukee won't offer the 8mm, why should they listen to demand or common sense. I have about 100 router bitts, very expensive, high end pro bits, all, but really, every single one of them with the 8mm shaft, and I'm not alone. I wrote to Milwaukee Germany, Milwaukee EU, Milwaukee.com, nothing! I reached out to other brands, but they just shut me down fast, claiming their collets only fit their own tools, period! I really don't want to get every bit I need in 6mm again, this is ridiculous, I never thought this would be so hard! does anyone know, do these other brands offer 8mm collets that would fit the new Milwaukee?
I read the comment just below mine, the collets for the die grinders, both 6 and 8mm collets are incompatible with the thread, same as my Bosch routers, nothing seems to fit the new milwaukee router! that's why I'm reaching out, pretty desperately, at this point, and palpably frustrated.
thank you!
Take it back and get the Makita. It is super easy to swap out the collets. I have a 6mm, 1/4", 8mm and 3/8" collets.
buy a normal vacuum cleaner first
What an insightful comment.
where's the girl in the bikini...
th-cam.com/video/02bc4zVEoP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0XzWAsNkcL9urrts&t=361
You push those routers way too hard. Also go the other direction and all your chips will go into the vacuum
You can only push a router in one direction.