The baking soda trick also works wonders for getting tea and coffee stains off of non-porous surfaces like a glazed ceramic mug. I clean my coffee mug this way every couple days, unless I'm not using it (which is rare). The damage on the case looks to me like it was caused by someone wrapping a cable around the case and leaving it that way for a long time, probably years. The plasticizers in the cable insulation leach into the plastic and cause it to essentially melt. Then, as they evaporate, the plastic re-hardens, but any damage to the shape remains.
I'm a longtime retro-computing enthusiast/follower, and your channel is my favorite now. High quality contents, well explained. It's remarkable that you show an oscilloscope while doing "detective work" and repairs. I particularly like the "exotic" computers and topics you touch, besides the typical C=64/Spectrum. Congrats! Also what I find amazing is that you're Spanish! You've a perfect English, something particularly difficult for us, native Romance languages speakers. Cheers from Argentina!
I just recently found your channel and have been enjoying catching up on all of the old videos. The items you feature are a bit older than what I'd be interested in collecting, but it's really enjoyable to watch your process for repairing them (the larger components used in the era also help, both for the debugging and for following your steps). A small thing I noticed on this video, which you might have already fixed on later videos - I'm watching them out of order - is that your TV makes a high pitched noise. It'd be great to add a low-pass filter to remove that. Not exactly sure where the cutoff should be, but I think the noise is around 15 kHz. Google also says that that seems to be a common frequency for cathode ray tubes.
I just discovered your awesome channel - it's certainly up there with the best! -> You definitely deserve more subscribers! And finally, you are my favorite Spanish channel (with pleasant English voice ;-)) right now - greetings from Germany!
I first saw one of these in the late 80's, since then I've always wanted one. This proves how reliable they are after all these years, but what awful assembly. Hell of a tech manual though.
Noel..necesito tu ayuda…te he encontrado en un foro de Msx ..hace un par de años intentaste arreglar un par de msx 8250 que se quedava la luz de la tecla de capslock bloqueada y pantalla negra……yo tengo un vg-8235 y me pasa lo mismo ,, entiendo bastante de el tema revise todas lineas..osciloscopio..etc….no se que mas hacer..tu lo solucionaste? gracias de antemano.
I like the way you fix it 1st then clean .. that's what I would do . loads of tubers get it all cleaned up 1st ! what a waste of time if it won't work !
12:04 I am extremely surprised that this uses basically standard Cherry keycaps stems. I am thinking of importing one of the Arabic localized versions of this to spruce up my mechanical keyboard and to be the only keeb enthusiast to have them. I'm Egyptian and I think it will make for a unique keyboard where the standard styles are English and Japanese. Would you know if they would fit a modern cherry keyboard switch? They look extremely similar at this part of the video. Would you have any advice on cleaning them without ruining the text/legends?
Oh really thank you for this great video, I have same problem with MSX2 from Yamaha. Can you help me to know which ram is the vram ? Then I can replace it ?
Hot glue was sadly used for everything for awhile, it became the duct tape of electronics. Probably figured that the device wouldn't last long enough the be an issue anyway.
Yes, that would be much more convenient. I ended up doing a bit of that with my SVI328 repair later on. The only problem with a cable like that is finding a cable with enough connectors, but it's definitely doable.
It's a ZD-915. There are other newer models I think, but that one works great. Also, there are lots of replacement parts and filters available, which is really important. Definitely recommended!
@@NoelsRetroLab thanks! Looks like a nice one. I got so frustrated looking for decent options I decided to pick up a Hakko FR-301, which is amazing but almost twice the price. So many crappy options out there, but the Hakko has convinced me of the need for a good one.
I just discovered your awesome channel - it's certainly up there with the best! -> You definitely deserve more subscribers! And finally, you are my favorite Spanish channel (with pleasant English voice ;-)) right now - greetings from Germany!
The baking soda trick also works wonders for getting tea and coffee stains off of non-porous surfaces like a glazed ceramic mug. I clean my coffee mug this way every couple days, unless I'm not using it (which is rare).
The damage on the case looks to me like it was caused by someone wrapping a cable around the case and leaving it that way for a long time, probably years. The plasticizers in the cable insulation leach into the plastic and cause it to essentially melt. Then, as they evaporate, the plastic re-hardens, but any damage to the shape remains.
I'm a longtime retro-computing enthusiast/follower, and your channel is my favorite now. High quality contents, well explained. It's remarkable that you show an oscilloscope while doing "detective work" and repairs. I particularly like the "exotic" computers and topics you touch, besides the typical C=64/Spectrum. Congrats! Also what I find amazing is that you're Spanish! You've a perfect English, something particularly difficult for us, native Romance languages speakers. Cheers from Argentina!
I'm really glad to hear that. Thanks! As for my English, I lived in the US for a long time, so it's not that surprising :-)
@@NoelsRetroLab That explains a lot! ;)
Great video. For the metal plate try using a bench grinder with a polishing wheel and fine polishing paste.
I just recently found your channel and have been enjoying catching up on all of the old videos. The items you feature are a bit older than what I'd be interested in collecting, but it's really enjoyable to watch your process for repairing them (the larger components used in the era also help, both for the debugging and for following your steps).
A small thing I noticed on this video, which you might have already fixed on later videos - I'm watching them out of order - is that your TV makes a high pitched noise. It'd be great to add a low-pass filter to remove that. Not exactly sure where the cutoff should be, but I think the noise is around 15 kHz. Google also says that that seems to be a common frequency for cathode ray tubes.
Another excellent video... I don't want to think about the nightmare that it would be to replace those membranes...
I have one of those with the same problem. I’ll try your video when I find time. Thanks a lot!!!
Apart of R53 you said pretty much everything there is to say about this machine. Great video!
I just discovered your awesome channel - it's certainly up there with the best!
-> You definitely deserve more subscribers!
And finally, you are my favorite Spanish channel (with pleasant English voice ;-)) right now - greetings from Germany!
I first saw one of these in the late 80's, since then I've always wanted one. This proves how reliable they are after all these years, but what awful assembly. Hell of a tech manual though.
Great video! Both entertaining and educational. I hope to see more MSX videos from you :)
Thanks! MSX computers haven't been my main focus, but I'll certainly make a video about any interesting ones I come across :-)
Fantastic Video, it has been very useful to solve the same fault in my SVI.
Good job!!
Very good video Noel! I have taken the video regulation idea to see if it works with an SVI738 whose image is a little fuzzy.
Nice video!
But I definitely wouldn't have resisted to replace those glue blobs with proper connectors. :)
Noel..necesito tu ayuda…te he encontrado en un foro de Msx ..hace un par de años intentaste arreglar un par de msx 8250 que se quedava la luz de la tecla de capslock bloqueada y pantalla negra……yo tengo un vg-8235 y me pasa lo mismo ,, entiendo bastante de el tema revise todas lineas..osciloscopio..etc….no se que mas hacer..tu lo solucionaste? gracias de antemano.
I like the way you fix it 1st then clean .. that's what I would do . loads of tubers get it all cleaned up 1st ! what a waste of time if it won't work !
I never thought about it that way, but it's very true! 😃
12:04 I am extremely surprised that this uses basically standard Cherry keycaps stems. I am thinking of importing one of the Arabic localized versions of this to spruce up my mechanical keyboard and to be the only keeb enthusiast to have them. I'm Egyptian and I think it will make for a unique keyboard where the standard styles are English and Japanese. Would you know if they would fit a modern cherry keyboard switch? They look extremely similar at this part of the video.
Would you have any advice on cleaning them without ruining the text/legends?
As a follow up I found out that Cherry MX switches released in 1983 and this computer was made in 1984. Is it in fact actual cherry?
Great videos. You're a brave man putting it all back together and then testing it. ;-)
Haha... thanks! Glad you're enjoying them.
@@NoelsRetroLab Not nearly as bad as taking the keyboard apart on my PET 4016 - There are 31 screws to remove and 2 soldered wires lol.
Oh really thank you for this great video, I have same problem with MSX2 from Yamaha. Can you help me to know which ram is the vram ? Then I can replace it ?
Love your repair vidoes
Thank you!!
Your welcome I’m subbing you I love how you fix it
I can't remember ever seeing a home computer with "home computer" on the front of it.
Nice cool
Hot glue was sadly used for everything for awhile, it became the duct tape of electronics. Probably figured that the device wouldn't last long enough the be an issue anyway.
That's some "special sauce" there... Reminds me of the botched modchip jobs done a few years ago by amateur modders off of eBay...
Haha, yeah, that's pretty horrible. Amazing to think this was standard practice at SVI at the time!
OK...say what you will about Commodore....I never opened a C64 or VIC-20 to find everything held in place with glue!! LOL. That's awesome.
Haha, yeah totally! Commodore was not trying to compete with rock-bottom prices and it shows.
why not rplace the clear ribbon calbes with plug and socket as it is soldered to kb pcb and mb pcb
Yes, that would be much more convenient. I ended up doing a bit of that with my SVI328 repair later on. The only problem with a cable like that is finding a cable with enough connectors, but it's definitely doable.
Which desoldering gun is that?
It's a ZD-915. There are other newer models I think, but that one works great. Also, there are lots of replacement parts and filters available, which is really important. Definitely recommended!
@@NoelsRetroLab thanks! Looks like a nice one. I got so frustrated looking for decent options I decided to pick up a Hakko FR-301, which is amazing but almost twice the price. So many crappy options out there, but the Hakko has convinced me of the need for a good one.
Well done! nice video everything seems too easy! :-) (naturally, I'm joking...)
Haha, thanks! It's probably not that hard either :-)
I just discovered your awesome channel - it's certainly up there with the best!
-> You definitely deserve more subscribers!
And finally, you are my favorite Spanish channel (with pleasant English voice ;-)) right now - greetings from Germany!
Thank you! Much appreciated! :-)