Couture CHANEL tweed suit worn by Lauren Bacall | Fashion Unpicked | V&A
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Join dressmaking expert Sue Clark as she takes a close-up look at an elegant CHANEL suit, made in 1959 for actress Lauren Bacall.
Comprised of a rose-pink tweed skirt and jacket paired with a delicate silk blouse, the pieces were made exactly to fit Bacall's measurements and have been finished to the very highest standard.
Watch as Sue examines the exquisite hand-sewn detailing and uncovers several fascinating hidden features - including the skirt's wide hems which allow for alterations with changing fashions, and a secret functional pocket, possibly for a compact or cigarette case.
00:00 Introducing Gabrielle Chanel and Lauren Bacall
00:53 A haute couture suit
01:13 Examining the piece (unmounted)
01:29 Skirt construction
03:28 Jacket construction
04:57 Silk blouse
06:55 Suit structure (mounted)
09:10 Why does Gabrielle Chanel use lion buttons?
Find out more about the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition: www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/gab...
Read more about iconic CHANEL pieces: www.vam.ac.uk/articles/what-m...
See more couture in our Fashion collection: www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fas... - บันเทิง
The curator's love of this garment is so evident in the reverent way she handles the fabric and points out the details of hand craft. More like this, please!
she was given a role in the Phatom Thread
@@shermansavI came to the comments to see if it was her. Thank you!
Well said, Art4ArtsSake.
I just watched this video & found everything about it simply gorgeous.
The meticulous design & creation of the garments; the understanding of the needs of day-to-day wearing.
The curators comprehensive and very pleasant explanation to the viewing public.
🌟🥀
Kig😂😅@@Vovvilina
The lingerie strap, the hand stitching and overcasting, the weighted hem on the jacket, it's stunning workmanship. Even the wider seam allowances to account for alterations. I'm mesmerized!
Of all the details that go into a couture suit, the lingerie strap is the one that gets me. To have thought of a detail like that - so that your bra strap stays put - just shows you Chanel was a woman's designer, designing for herself and other women. Brilliant woman, Chanel was.
All these details in place to be sensitive to a woman's needs. And POCKETS!!
Ive been sewing for over 40 years, and when I grow up i want to make something half as good as this! Stunning!
It's never too late. All you need is time, patience, and practice.
your comment is so sweet and it made my day!
I learned more about haute couture in this one video than I had in 20 other videos. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I love how the madam is very gentle and calm but very passionately explaining every tiny details of the garment to the world. :)
This is the suit Marge found at the 2nd hand store and revamped 3 different ways
Marge was truly a trendsetter - she was into repurposing and upcycling Fashion way before it was cool. Icon.
Love that episode. She looked fantastic.
I came here to say this but knew in my heart that it had already been said
It was a discount outlet store if I recall
Yes! I remember!
I just love listening to Sue Clark explain the details of Lauren Bacall’s suit. More of her please!
Please more Ms Clark videos, she is so good at explaining every single detail.
I very much liked the way the curator presented the suit: totally factual, practical, clearly explained. She revered it, its creator and its owner, but it was all low key. She did not gush or eulogise over either Chanel or Bacall, she treated them seriously. I also like how she suggested Bacall might carry a cigarette case, at once we realised this oh so modern piece of apparel is actually a period piece. My mother was exactly Bacall’s age and had a high street version of this sort of suit in a very similar colourway, I can just remember it. She carried her cigarettes in her handbag!
Yes I appreciated that it was all about the garment. Chanel was a terrible person, there's no need to make it about her.
It's only when you see these haute couture garments up close that you realize why they are so expensive. This is countless hours of work and craftsmanship. If I had the money, I would absolutely spend it on this.
I would loooove to take a sewing class with Sue Clark. She has so much knowledge about sewing and details and has such a nice voice. 🙂
Showing all of the inside details of the Chanel suit is so fabulous!!! Thank You for the behind the scenes look.
So glad she discussed the top stitching. I noticed that first. Really adds to the elegance. Everything else was perfection too of course
This out fit is stunning! The skill and love that was put in to it amazing!. It is a shame that standards if what is appropriate to wear out side has lowered so much. My Mother always dressed immaculately when she went out, hat, gloves , hand bag make up, I always thought she looked amazing we didn’t have a lot if money but she had taste and could make cheap outfit look couture. She passed that love to me I’ve been making clothes for over 50 years. I’ve passed my knowledge on to my Daughters and Granddaughter’s , nieces as well!. Hopefully now that they can make exquisite clothes and enjoy them too. It’s never too late to learn and the feeling of satisfaction of a good job done is amazing!. Give it a go!.
What a stunning and practical garment. It’s decades old but I would be proud to wear it today and feel ahead of fashion. It’s timeless. ❤
When I was studying to become a fashion designer, at Pratt Institute (Brooklyn, NY), this is EXACTLY how we were taught to construct a garment.
This was absolutely wonderful! I'm in awe of the craftsmanship. I mean, I know true Chanel is coveted, but to the life of me I never understood why. I thought it unflattering, and boring and wondered why anyone wanted a frumpy Chanel suit. But now I see the beauty and specialness of such a garment. Now I would be proud to wear it and wouldn't shut up to anyone who complimented me all about the fabulous construction and femininity. So impressed. I'll never turn my nose up at a Chanel suit again. Thank you for this. And might I add, I LOVE Sue. You can tell she is passionate about fashion and Chanel. Lovely lady!
This is so breathtaking to me that it makes me want to cry, I just visited the Rue Cambon today… I will never forget it. Chanel & Paris, and me on my birthday. ❤
There are multiple reasons for both the deep hem and the wide seam allowances. In either case, their main function isn't for future alterations.
In Couture, deep hems like that are common because they give the garment more body, and help it move more elegantly.
In Couture wide seam allowances are used because they sit much flatter on the body, and help the garment move more fluidly. They're used even in pieces that you'd never expect to alter for that reason.
The chains in the hem are also not unique to Chanel. It's an iconic detail, but it's not something invented by Chanel or unique to Chanel. The genius of the Chanel suit is really more about the the way the various techniques work in harmony together rather than the individual techniques themselves.
@@joaninflorida3486 That is very much a function, but even Couture pieces that you wouldn't alter because it has like an overlay with a scalloped hem or something, you still would have the deep hem on the underskirt because it makes the garment move much more elegantly. Couture is definitely a different beast to ready to wear, even vintage ready to wear.
(Even on today, when you wouldn't alter a Couture suit like this, because it would be like painting over the background of a painting to make it match your new sofa better, they still have the super deep hems and wide seam allowances. Couture is draped and molded to the body, so that extra body improves the fit, feel, and movement of the piece. As I said, it's a totally different beast. It's not like an even nicer version of the designer dresses at Neiman Marcus or Harrod's. It's totally different.)
Dear Bunny, Sue Clarke is a dress maker and an external examiner for fashion and dressmaking- she is both humble and knowledgeable.
In a very short but highly informative video on a garment you are being given insights.
Therefor, please show some respect to Sue Clarke and believe what she tells you.
😊0э
@@ianbromley7218Agreed with you and the curator.. M Alterations are the lifeblood of couture and the reason Chanel carried scissors around with her to alter on the spot. If Lauren gained weight or needed length she could very well alter her thousands of dollars suit. A three inch hem or one inch seam doesn’t flow any better, if anything they add bulk. Bulk doesn’t flow.
Love the passion Sue Clark has for this garment...and probably a whole bunch more. Another important aspect of tailoring that needs to be stressed, is the fact that one really needs the customer to model the garment to understand. Couture is just making to size, but to your personal shape. To attain this there are so many fabric manipulations done to the fabric to lay smooth, but still be fluid in movement with the body. Two panels start out being equal, but the tailor will stretch one side, while the other is shrunk, then when sewed together with talented seamstress hands a miracle happens...a perfect fit to the body but can still move. This is difficult to put into words, but believe me, There is a big difference to making clothes fit to the body and a Couture garment to fit AND move to a client's body with out any pulling or bunching, that one see's being worn in ready to wear, off the racks.
I saved up for a suit, Ann Klein but done by Donna Karan her last year there. I see where she got her ideas for the skirt, this is how it was built. Most comfortable skirt ever! Very obvious she studied Chanel now I see this.
I patterned that skirt, made about 8 of them. My ‘80’s wardrobe!
What an excellent education you got for the price of a skirt. :)
Her voice is so calming. This could be an ASMR.
I could spend hours watching Chanel haute couture!
The lady introduced the suit as if examining a historical artifact - incredible 🥰 I think she is a good person
It’s so crisp yet feminine absolutely timeless. thank you for this great series
That weight chain was one of those small details that would one day inspire Karl to create iconic pieces revolving chains, becoming an instant signature Chanel look. Love it.
The construction is impeccable!!!
Absolutely fascinating to be walked through how this gorgeous Chanel suit was constructed and put together. Could listen all day!
Such a calming and soothing voice! 💗🪡👚
Beautifully constructed suit. You can literally see and feel Lauren Bacall wearing it, just by the dress hanging on the fitting form.
oh goodness, how i love this suit. it's wonderful in B&W photos, but seeing this lovely pink -- *swoon* 😻💖😻 thank you, V&A for showcasing this for us. sue clark, thank you for the educational tour.
Beautiful ... sleeve is called .. Bracelet length.....
A perfect vintage Chanel suit!
Thank you so much for this wonderful comprehensive description of the Chanel tweed suit. it's probably the only time I will be able to see the inside of a Chanel garment and the curator's description made me feel I was there.
Thank you, that was so lovely to see. Sue Clark’s respect for the garment is beautiful and she really explained how it was made.
The V&A channel deserves so much more views and subs. Lovely content!
She sure knows what she is talking about, love it.
Very interesting and well explained. Thank you.
I visited the V & A on a school trip to costumes of the BBC dramas The 6 Wives of Henry visited and Elizabeth R, they were magnificent, some of today's fashions are OTT.
How is a farthingale or a neck ruff not OTT? Elizabeth's gowns could stand up by themselves from the jewels on them. I don't see many jewel encrusted dresses around.
Absolutely gorgeous suit and a lovely guide as to how it was made. Thank you!
Just don't let Kim Kardashian get her hands on it please
I second that emotion.
Or her tuchas in it.
So nice to hear the word “actress”!! Can’t wait to see the exhibition.
Why is it nice to hear the word actress?
I wish she had addressed the buttonholes! Cutting the front panel of the blouse on the bias would give it just a bit of stretch, which means it would have a little extra ease. So interesting how there are no seams right on the sides. Instead, the sides are panels. That allows and even more custom fit. What did she call the snaps at the bottom of the blouse? Poppers? The stiching on the bracelet-length jacket sleeves, neckline, hem, and jacket opening gives it a beaufitul finish as well as lengting strenth and stiffness to the fabric. That blouse is even more constructed than the jacket! The little knot on the side of the armhole, the offset shoulder seam, the side panels, the hand-overcast Princess seams, seam binding on the neck hem, bra straps, tiny rolled hem....just exquisite. Is it made of silk?
A lovely video - many years ago I was introduced to a dress maker whose attention to detail now seems so familiar - was it couture? Her finesse in finishing was her defining feature. I was just a teenager and did not fully appreciate how special she was. The garments fitted beautifully and lasted in spite of changing fashion - her style was classic. Her legacy was the gift of detail and now I alter many of my clothes using her techniques.
I will never achieve couture excellence but I can now appreciate its enduring quality and beauty
Many home sewers learn couture finishing techniques, it's not exactly the same as a fully couture garment since those involve multiple tailors and seamstresses.
This is a wonderful explanation of the creation of this suit. So many details go into the making it, Yes, I would wear it to go shopping too 😎
Claire, you used that jacket in the June/July, 1989 article you did in Threads. It was a real treat to see it featured and gone over in this video. Loved the panel in skirt front. When I learned to sew in the late 1950's, 3" hems were the standard. I still do wide hems.
elegant and very gentle, yet very smart
Love this video, the voice of this lady and all of the knowledge she has and shared with us ❤ I love Coco Channel 💖
Lovely suit lovingly described by someone who is appreciative and understanding of the skills and art of the garment.
This so beautiful, the tailoring is magnificent. Thank you for explaining the process.
Thank you so much, please do more videos like this!
We definitely will but for now, check out the playlist featuring loads more great films in this series: th-cam.com/play/PLe2ihXndm5jvJsAP3AOHQz4FcgUki-nLx.html&si=ZGwQcZlfXVGrwHUp
Wow, how interesting. Who would have thought that a Chanel suit would have so many details. This was Well Made! ❤️
Bingo!🎉🎉
I had guessed a pocket for a hip flask etc. But cigarette cases of the era were often curved and slim like hip flasks, exactly that square shape, so makes sense.
Of course wearers would have flunkies to carry real stuff. One can't let the cut be ruined by a bulky object...
And a handbag/purse could be complementary... but maybe a bit too lowbrow at this A-lister level.
PS Great exposition, very interesting, thanks!
Or could carry a couple of hundred dollar bills.......😊
Bacall definitely smoked you can tell by her voice.
I would have thought a handkerchief!
@@margaritakmp or theater ticket stub for a matinee...
Look closely at Bacall’s right hand on her daughter’s shoulder in the photo of her wearing the suit - there’s a lit cigarette between her fingers 🚬
Fascinating! What a finely crafted piece!
what a masterpiece, thank you for sharing
Who'd have thought, Dolores Umbridge had such good taste... 🙂
That was not a Channel suit she wore in the movie. However - your comment is quit funny.
I was really grateful to see an older Woman speaking. Often people don't realise that there are many understandings that can only be truly seen through the lenses of different eras of Fashion. Fashion is a History in its own right
This lady is amazing - so relaxing, so informative ... she is a true curator who is in love with the curated treasure...please post more of her!
Have you seen this one? th-cam.com/video/bJ-j8NFbY8Y/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzvJWXhV9LQ0LkYRSx4AaABAg
Amazing engineering behind the garment every detail perfectly done to make the wearer look elegant.
Thank you for sharing your insights with us! I am going to try to make a suit inspired by this outfit!
Such a beautiful suit ❤
*I TAILOR MENS BESPOKE* historical suits - but the classic Chanel tweed suit is so iconic, it is a thing I have to make before I die. And it will have to be to full Haute Couture standard
Such a pity that Gabriella Chanaerl was a full on Fascist.
I'm off to the exhibition next week, and am curious to see how the exhibitors handle that aspect of her collaboration with the Nazi occupiers, or whether it will be all wonderful and whitewashed. It doesn't take away from the loveliness of her garments, but still is something to be acknowledged.
@@mehitabel6564 - a bad person can create beautiful things. People are infinitely complex. Who's to say what we would do under Nazi occupation...???
I hope you enjoy the show
@@piccalillipit9211 I've generally felt that yes, you can separate the art from the artist and had long discussions about that one. Caravaggio for instance painted some of the most compelling images during the Renaissance but was a violent man and suspected murderer. That doesn't mean his work should not be appreciated or hidden from public view. I'm sure I'll enjoy Chanel's work, and have reproduced French jackets with couture construction methods myself. It is rewarding but not as complex as bespoke tailoring.
@@mehitabel6564 NO ONE does black like Caravaggio, I love Caravaggio. Total psychopath.
@@piccalillipit9211 most French people did not collaborate with the Nazis, the French resistance is renowned for how fiercely they fought back for a reason. Even if you weren't an active resistance member, there's a huge difference between that and actively holding Nazi beliefs. Chanel didn't just collaborate with Nazis but shared their views.
This was so lovely , thank you to the curator and the production crew
This is a very unusual design in that the seams were carried round to the back. I found this video incredibly interesting as I’m a sewer and it was fascinating to see how this garment was put together with all the handwork . Also interesting that Lauren Bacall requested larger seam allowance to enable her to have the suit adjusted for changing fashion. What a great workplace to be able to see such fantastic garments every day. Thank you.
That craftmanship is fascinating.
Спасибо. Как понятно и нежно все показано и обьяснено. Чудесные важные мелочи. Я учту это все,как буду шить себе костюм. Сама сошью, это так вдохновляет жить.
Love love love this suit!
Loved this, thank you
Thank you for this amazing video! I love these insights into older garments
Stunning...Thank You !!..❤
Magical ... thank you for sharing
Quite lovely. Thank you.💖
So many pretty details ❤
Muchas gracias. He hecho uno en talla L para mi marido y le ha encantado. Un abrazo desde el país vasco.❤
MARVELOUS video! I hope to see some more of this kind of content!
Beautiful craftsmanship!
Spectacular video ❤
Fascinating and so informative
Excellent presentation.
Gorgeous garment ! Beautiful colour !
it is beautiful, thank you for sharing. I love it
Thank you! More please!
INCRESIBLE.
Thank you. So beautiful
Beautiful quality clothes 👗is always Chanel 🪡🧵
Great channel! I subscribed. ❤
Beautiful post
Just exquisite!
¡Qué maravilla! Explicó muy bien cada detalle de la confección. Sin dudas eso es alta costura.
the suit reminded me of the one Jackie Kennedy wore the day of his assassination.
Lauren Bacall's hairdo is also similar to Jackie Onassis's hairdo.
Thank you, truely
I met her!! In a store Zitamers on Madison Avenue. She had her dog and she was shopping for hair shampoo. 💖✨💫
That has been the most iconic suit ever made. If I were a woman I'd wear it.
Exquisite 👌
I love her voice.
It's very similar to that famous Jackie Kennedy suit.
Jackie’s suit was a line for line copy of Chanel, purchased at Chez Ninon on Park Ave. In the “old days” Chanel sent material and patterns to select stores and allied them to make copies (paid a licensing fee to do so).
Beautiful,that color pink 💕 I would wear that if I had it & if it fit me which I doubt it would! 😂
Also to mentioned Gabrielle Chanel she was born 19th August, her star sign was leo hence why she used lion throughout her collections and and brand still uses.
Love this tufs❤❤❤❤
I thought that the haute couture jackets were quilted to the lining, whereas the RTW jackets had a loose lining. Confused.