Your videos are super helpful. You stick to the topic and explain everything so clearly. I appreciate the fact that you don't include a lot of useless or extraneous information (I'm not a patient person lol). Thanks!
You instill confidence in your viewers to be bale to move forward in their builds, at least you did for me. It is becoming more and more clear, again Thank you, oh forget my last post I was having a mind fart!
Jeff ....your vans are looking more and more awesome!!!! Me, and my BMW motorcycle still have you in our sights for my build when I retire.....soon!!!! Freddy
VHB Tape (depending on which version) has a tensile strength of ~140PSI. Depending on the surface area, thickness of panel, etc its is likely much stronger than using screws. You can also use adhesion promoters for extra strength, and it comes in thin rolls too. Great video, I've been considering how we will attach panelling to our 8020 cabinets. I'd like to go with thin material and have something removable for service, so likely will either bolt through the panel with visible screws like you showed or maybe even try dual lock.
This couldn't be more timely. Just got my delivery from T-Nutz. This will help immensly figuring out the fastening of the aluminum profiles. Big relief! Your last few 8020 videos are most valuable. Thank you so much!!
Very good tips. I am building my van wit 80/20 and one thing I realized is the the hardware adds a lot to the cost. It costs as much for brackets and bolts / t-nuts as for the bars. Also, building complex structures takes a lot of planning. Me and my son, a mechanical engineer, spent much of the week and all week-end planning the material needed for our kitchen / shower all-in one unit.
Yep, that 80/20 saga was started by George from Humble Road a few years ago,, then everything went all directions, for the good, but mostly for the worse. My favorite one is seeing people building an 80/20 structure then covering it with 19mm baltic birch plywood...
Invaluable; every section and just about every sentence extreme useful. Worth saying again, even as others have already noted, thank you very much for providing this all gratis. We could have all paid you for a consult, which I bet would be longer than just 30mins, whereas you have kindly given up the answers to very key questions. Also much appreciate your use of adverbs; something that seems to be disappearing in the US! 🤣
Thank you once again for a very informative video. Would love to see you explain how you design drawer cabinets. Specifically, the sizing of drawer boxes to drawer fronts, alignment of fronts to boxes and how you attach to the fronts keeping everything lined up perfectly. Thanks!
I've a question for you: Do you ever do any floor-to-ceiling structures out of extruded aluminium? And if so, how do you deal with securing those to the van itself? The lower portions, obviously you'd do the same as your cabinets; but then the wall curvature and then whatever ceiling curvature come into play. I'd love to hear how you tackle those sorts of features. Thank you!
Have you evaluated the difference in weight gained between a thicker and therefore heavier wooden frame with your assemblies...? Is the game worth the effort, as we say here in France? I would like to know this difference, if it exists of course and I think it is significant..!
Fantastic video, answers a lot of the questions I've been trying to find but no one seemed to mention it! Just on the thermal bridging and screwing into the floor. What type of screw is best to use to limit thermal bridging (like zinc, stainless steel?) And do you still put a rubber/plastic washer in-between the floor wood batten and the aluminum, or does the wood stop the thermal bridging itself? Thankyou !
With all this drilling and screwing directly into the metalwork and the various dissimilar metals in use (especially the aluminum extrusions in which you destroy the oxide layer by drilling and then using stainless steel screws in those same holes) are you ever worried about galvanic corrosion?
Your videos take me from overwhelmed to feeling completely in control, thanks for these awesome training opportunities. I was wondering how you decide when to use 4 side T-slot extrude aluminum, or 3, or 2, etc. In your videos, typically you have flat on all outer sides, but occasionally not the case. I imagine it doesn't make a big difference, but when you drill directly into the aluminum, does it add an extra bit of material for the screw to bite? Would the only time it would matter be if you were inlaying the panel, keeping the aluminum visible (just for looks)? Thanks again!
It all depends on what you will see. We don't even use 4-slot. We use mostly tri-slot (1 smooth side). We face the smooth side out if it will be seen on the face or ends of cabinetry. We use bi-slot (2 smooth sides) when two sides will be seen. For example, we use bi-slot for the bottom bar on our upper cabinets since you will see the bottom and the face. We also try to face the smooth side out if we will be screwing into the bar.
Do you have a video where you show how to install hinged doors on you lower cabinets (10 series). With the doors inset into the aluminum, how would you install the hinges?
I'm in the middle of a van build and have seen 100's of videos to figure out what the heck I'm doing. Yours is the most informative that I've seen. Much appreciation for sharing your years of experience and expertise. I just costed out extruded AL bars with your recommended supplier vs Amazon (8020). TNutz has a better price. But due to the high cost of shipping, I found that Amazon Prime was overall cheaper (around $60 vs $350 for TNutz shipping). I'm thinking I have to purchase a lot of AL extruded rods from Tnutz to have it make sense financially. How much AL do you buy at a time? And what would you estimate the amount of 10 and 15 series rods you used in this build?
This is a great, informative video! I'm stuck on one thing, though... When/where to use the 10 and 15 series profiles? My thinking is that the vertical posts would use the larger 15 series while the horizontal pieces would use the smaller 10 series. Is it as simple as that? Or am I completely off-base? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all these detailed videos! Q: What do you use to keep the wheelwell cabinets parallel to the center line of the van (brackets or rubber spacers)? I assume the back end of cabinets would be an inch or two off the wall to keep the centerline even. Or are you building the 80/20 a bit wider towards the back of the van? Looking to build our own van shortly!
Very timely video for me. Thanks very much for sharing. One question: how many screws do you typically use to fasten a component to the van floor and wall (I.e., sink/cabinet component or framework for water tank)?
It can be tricky to find. It’s best if you can find a local supplier so you don’t have to pay shipping. It’s sometimes called Riga Heksa. If you can’t find it locally, try Reparadise in Salt Lake City.
Hello there! I'm trying to contact you. I have a revel that I want to upgrade the power bank with Victron system. What is the best way to contact you guys. Thank you.
10 series. Much lighter, less expensive, and plenty strong. The only place we use 15 series is for the bars that span the mechanical boxes for the bed platform.
I have designed and offer for sale (here on TH-cam) a series of cabinet latches for wood framed cabinet face retention. I am developing latches for 8020 van and manufacturer builds based on the same concept. They are available for several series 8020 applications
if you stop using the name 802 and only keep with extruded aluminum then people will shop for that product rather than 8020 which are so overpriced only an opinion and thank for all you videos my preferred videos for my build, subscribed and client buying your offers.
8020 it's so ridiculously expensive, unless you're the type of person that's going to be putting a $100000 build into your van it's not practical for the majority of people, anyway good luck to those who can afford it
Very generous of you to share freely what amounts to hours of valuable consultation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Your videos are super helpful. You stick to the topic and explain everything so clearly. I appreciate the fact that you don't include a lot of useless or extraneous information (I'm not a patient person lol). Thanks!
Glad to know that there's another van builder other than Humble Road that use 8020 in their van builds!
George was my inspiration!
You instill confidence in your viewers to be bale to move forward in their builds, at least you did for me. It is becoming more and more clear, again Thank you, oh forget my last post I was having a mind fart!
I’m addicted to watching your amazing videos. Thanks again😊
Glad you like them!
Jeff ....your vans are looking more and more awesome!!!! Me, and my BMW motorcycle still have you in our sights for my build when I retire.....soon!!!! Freddy
Looking forward to it!
VHB Tape (depending on which version) has a tensile strength of ~140PSI. Depending on the surface area, thickness of panel, etc its is likely much stronger than using screws. You can also use adhesion promoters for extra strength, and it comes in thin rolls too.
Great video, I've been considering how we will attach panelling to our 8020 cabinets. I'd like to go with thin material and have something removable for service, so likely will either bolt through the panel with visible screws like you showed or maybe even try dual lock.
This couldn't be more timely. Just got my delivery from T-Nutz. This will help immensly figuring out the fastening of the aluminum profiles. Big relief! Your last few 8020 videos are most valuable. Thank you so much!!
Glad I could help!
Very good tips. I am building my van wit 80/20 and one thing I realized is the the hardware adds a lot to the cost. It costs as much for brackets and bolts / t-nuts as for the bars. Also, building complex structures takes a lot of planning. Me and my son, a mechanical engineer, spent much of the week and all week-end planning the material needed for our kitchen / shower all-in one unit.
Yes. The hardware adds up quickly. Try the supplier we use. They have the best prices we’ve found.
Yep, that 80/20 saga was started by George from Humble Road a few years ago,, then everything went all directions, for the good, but mostly for the worse. My favorite one is seeing people building an 80/20 structure then covering it with 19mm baltic birch plywood...
@@thrivans I am in Montreal Canada. There is a supplier here with very good price and I can pick up orders so I save on shipping.
@@fournier.benoit1993 I am near Ottawa. What is the suppler in Montreal that you use for the 80/20? Thanks in advance!
@@vaskobelovski5772 Faztek in Ville St-Laurent
Invaluable; every section and just about every sentence extreme useful.
Worth saying again, even as others have already noted, thank you very much for providing this all gratis. We could have all paid you for a consult, which I bet would be longer than just 30mins, whereas you have kindly given up the answers to very key questions.
Also much appreciate your use of adverbs; something that seems to be disappearing in the US! 🤣
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you once again for a very informative video. Would love to see you explain how you design drawer cabinets. Specifically, the sizing of drawer boxes to drawer fronts, alignment of fronts to boxes and how you attach to the fronts keeping everything lined up perfectly. Thanks!
Very useful knowledge! I hope to be using your know-how very soon. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge and experience 👏
My pleasure!
Thanks for sharing. 😀
I've a question for you: Do you ever do any floor-to-ceiling structures out of extruded aluminium? And if so, how do you deal with securing those to the van itself? The lower portions, obviously you'd do the same as your cabinets; but then the wall curvature and then whatever ceiling curvature come into play. I'd love to hear how you tackle those sorts of features. Thank you!
Have you evaluated the difference in weight gained between a thicker and therefore heavier wooden frame with your assemblies...? Is the game worth the effort, as we say here in France? I would like to know this difference, if it exists of course and I think it is significant..!
Fantastic video, answers a lot of the questions I've been trying to find but no one seemed to mention it!
Just on the thermal bridging and screwing into the floor. What type of screw is best to use to limit thermal bridging (like zinc, stainless steel?) And do you still put a rubber/plastic washer in-between the floor wood batten and the aluminum, or does the wood stop the thermal bridging itself? Thankyou !
With all this drilling and screwing directly into the metalwork and the various dissimilar metals in use (especially the aluminum extrusions in which you destroy the oxide layer by drilling and then using stainless steel screws in those same holes) are you ever worried about galvanic corrosion?
We have not had any problems with this.
Your videos take me from overwhelmed to feeling completely in control, thanks for these awesome training opportunities. I was wondering how you decide when to use 4 side T-slot extrude aluminum, or 3, or 2, etc. In your videos, typically you have flat on all outer sides, but occasionally not the case. I imagine it doesn't make a big difference, but when you drill directly into the aluminum, does it add an extra bit of material for the screw to bite? Would the only time it would matter be if you were inlaying the panel, keeping the aluminum visible (just for looks)? Thanks again!
It all depends on what you will see. We don't even use 4-slot. We use mostly tri-slot (1 smooth side). We face the smooth side out if it will be seen on the face or ends of cabinetry. We use bi-slot (2 smooth sides) when two sides will be seen. For example, we use bi-slot for the bottom bar on our upper cabinets since you will see the bottom and the face. We also try to face the smooth side out if we will be screwing into the bar.
Do you have a video where you show how to install hinged doors on you lower cabinets (10 series). With the doors inset into the aluminum, how would you install the hinges?
What grade of Baltic Birch do you use for unseen areas of roof and floor? B/BB, BB/BB, BB/CP, CP/CP, c/c or shop grades?
I'm pretty sure it's BB/BB. That's just what my supplier carries.
Do you have any plans for sale as far as cuttings for maybe a shower install or cabinets?
I'm in the middle of a van build and have seen 100's of videos to figure out what the heck I'm doing. Yours is the most informative that I've seen. Much appreciation for sharing your years of experience and expertise. I just costed out extruded AL bars with your recommended supplier vs Amazon (8020). TNutz has a better price. But due to the high cost of shipping, I found that Amazon Prime was overall cheaper (around $60 vs $350 for TNutz shipping). I'm thinking I have to purchase a lot of AL extruded rods from Tnutz to have it make sense financially. How much AL do you buy at a time? And what would you estimate the amount of 10 and 15 series rods you used in this build?
If you keep the lengths under 96” with Tnutz the shipping is much cheaper.
@@thrivans Yep. Much less expensive that way. Thanks!
This is a great, informative video! I'm stuck on one thing, though... When/where to use the 10 and 15 series profiles? My thinking is that the vertical posts would use the larger 15 series while the horizontal pieces would use the smaller 10 series. Is it as simple as that? Or am I completely off-base? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
We use 10 series for everything. The only place we use 15 series is for the rails across the mechanical boxes to create the bed platform.
@@thrivans Appreciate your reply, thanks! That's even easier than I was thinking.
What is the thread spec for attaching to different Van locations? Thanks for your videos!
We use 1/4”-20 bolts into Rivnuts or Plusnuts for the walls and #14 sheet metal screws for the floor.
Thanks for all these detailed videos!
Q: What do you use to keep the wheelwell cabinets parallel to the center line of the van (brackets or rubber spacers)? I assume the back end of cabinets would be an inch or two off the wall to keep the centerline even. Or are you building the 80/20 a bit wider towards the back of the van?
Looking to build our own van shortly!
We make spacers on a 3D printer to keep everything square.
We are really enjoying your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Do you ever use velcro or magnets to attach panels to the 80/20?
Magnets, yes. Velcro, no. Magnets work very well.
Very timely video for me. Thanks very much for sharing. One question: how many screws do you typically use to fasten a component to the van floor and wall (I.e., sink/cabinet component or framework for water tank)?
Usually 3 or 4 in the wall and the same in the floor.
Awesome primer-thank you. What’s a good source for that hex ply?
It can be tricky to find. It’s best if you can find a local supplier so you don’t have to pay shipping. It’s sometimes called Riga Heksa. If you can’t find it locally, try Reparadise in Salt Lake City.
Hello there!
I'm trying to contact you.
I have a revel that I want to upgrade the power bank with Victron system.
What is the best way to contact you guys.
Thank you.
Silly question maybe, but you mentioned screwing the frame right into the floor sheet metal. Are you ever concerned about leaks?
No. We spray all of the screws with undercarriage coating.
Have you ever designed a space for a semi truck
We have not.
So do you normally use 10 series and not 15?
10 series. Much lighter, less expensive, and plenty strong. The only place we use 15 series is for the bars that span the mechanical boxes for the bed platform.
I have designed and offer for sale (here on TH-cam) a series of cabinet latches for wood framed cabinet face retention. I am developing latches for 8020 van and manufacturer builds based on the same concept. They are available for several series 8020 applications
if you stop using the name 802 and only keep with extruded aluminum then people will shop for that product rather than 8020 which are so overpriced only an opinion and thank for all you videos my preferred videos for my build, subscribed and client buying your offers.
That's funny, that toekick story: 30 years owning sailboats and surviving not having them... You are not in a house, you are in a van.
Plywood is not a great insulator for a thermal break
8020 it's so ridiculously expensive, unless you're the type of person that's going to be putting a $100000 build into your van it's not practical for the majority of people, anyway good luck to those who can afford it