Very well done, and nicely described! Thank you for an excellent repair video. I have a tx-sr607, which had only the display resistor problem. I was able to fix it myself... I learned a lot from this video. Thanks again!
Great video! Thanks so much for the details in your videos. I was a big Onkyo fan at one point and repaired a couple of the flagship models and I currently have a lower end model that I gave up on awhile back. I gave up because it has the same protect turn off issues as this one. I already know that the fix will be the same as you have shown here, a ton of bad parts and a lot of work. I still have it and may get back to it given your inspiration. I also need a decent ESR meter as I also have an Anthem unit with bad caps on the HDMI boards, well at least one is leaking. The HDMI boards works sometimes and sometimes not. I watch your videos for knowledge and inspiration to get to some of these project I have sitting around. Thanks again for the content.
Bravo. I have TX-NR636 doing exactly the same. I hope one of your videos goes over testing the speaker/line integrity. This unit of mine has always been touchy. If HDMI couplers are used make sure they are high-quality. Those wall plate couplers are garbage and will give subtle maddening grief unending. Will edit updates.
What a find!! My SR606 died this summer. As an old retired e tech I thought I'd pull it open and poke around. I've always run on the principle that, like a light bulb, it's the initial surge that stresses components. So, like my 1976 SAE 2900 Parametric Equalizer, still on and humming away 24/7 waiting for me to use it's phono input. So I would also leave my 606 ON in the garage where I use it to drive 2 big speakers. But, stupid me, for not thinking of my South facing garage in Phoenix that regularly climbs to 120 deg in the summer! And NO fan! My whole 606 pre-amp board is blacker than your 1 channel! Anyway, got my esr meter and ordered my caps. We'll see. Cracks me up that at my age, they're calling this nice 7.1 Onkyo "Vintage" hahaha! GREAT video!! Well done. Thanks!
I've always just fixed the original fault. It's crazy how likely it is that so many caps can be bad. I'll have to be more proactive at testing them. While the unit might work without new caps it's good preventative maintenance. Definitely worth doing from a business standpoint to avoid comebacks.
Very well said, I too would've just repaired the problem years back, but, nowadays with the Chinese electrolitics we can't take chances, especially now that I invested in an ESR meter several years ago and its worth its weight in gold.
I was introduced to your channel from grants pass tv. He said that I would be taking place as I've never been before in troubleshooting electronics if I visited your channel. Boy, he wasn't kidding!! I had your channel bookmarked, but I don't recall if I ever watched any of the videos on it before. Really really interesting stuff! I'm looking forward to watching more. I didn't understand how the circuit works that changes the bias on the outputs based on their temperature.
Thank you for this repair documentation. I have an HT-R570 here on the bench that I'd really love to have operational so I can have some tunes. Failure mode: Standby lamp on all the time. Power on. Lamp goes out, transformer hums, no display, 1-2 sec then shuts down. I checked a few things on the standby psu side. No joy. One of the first things you said was check the output transistors. I found 2 dead shorted output transistors. Q6064,Q6065. To see if any changes occurred, I cut those two guys out....result: first I forgot to plug in the heat sink sensor, and I got another fail mode, but once I hooked that back up, standby lamp full on, power on, display comes on, able to select inputs, unit stays on. Heck yeah. I'll get those parts replaced.
Wow, these electrolytic s are just not getting any better, it reminds me of the older Mitsubishi widescreens that would have 100s of bad elec.caps. Another enjoyable video and great job Steve.
Muito bom técnico em eletrônico (professor) amo eletrônica só não tive oportunidade de estudar, admiro muito essa profissão! Tenho um onkio TX Sr 607 para concertar, aqui no Brasil não tem nada infelizmente! Barra do Piraí RJ abraço
You earned your pay on that one. Most complex unit you've worked on since I've been watching. Looks like that unit could use some ventilation help keeping it cool. Those boards were definitely baked crispy! Please pass the butter and knife, thanks!
In fact I added a 5v horizontal laptop cooler fan above the power transistor heatsink, to improve venting the hot air upwards and outwards through the vents!
@@zs1dfr That's was a smart pro-active thing you invested it. If it seems like it can can get to warn, what a few extra $$ more to be certain. Good job
I have this machine with same On0ff issue; this was helpful - but our speaker thingys are all copper with no burned looking spots, guess we have a diff problem.
Excellent repair! I'm happy to see that you choose to replace all the Capacitors across all the channels even though 1 or 2 were showing up okay... I have to ask, do you check for size comparability with the new Capacitors? Or do you just order the same voltage and capacity value? And also... Have you ever considered going up in voltage rating on the Capacitor when it's located next to or close to a heat source? Because by going up in voltage capacity, the capacitor will have better heat tolerance... I have been looking into the Panasonic Capacitor datasheet and it shows how by going up in voltage extends the life of the Capacitor... It's just a thought that I wanted to put out there.... It's just a preventative measure... Keeps that device from retuning to you bench and leaves the door open for new devices and customers that got referred to you...
you can buy high temp caps. if you go up in capacitance you should also go up in voltage, not all applications allow variation in capacitance, only voltage, changing the values, either voltage or capacitance will change the ESR the in series resistance of the capacitor.
Great video mate. The only thing that's probably not been changed is the Power Transformer and the outer metal casing 😂😂 We see so so many Onkyo receivers failing due to overheating. Makes me wonder if there are some serious design issues with these. Ideally ABRs should go to protect mode if heat is detected more than the defined threshold. Probably the design engineers were not up to the mark.
often the bias potentiometers become oxidised or even blown open from the damaged power transistors. Either way it needs to be checked and pots cleaned with a deoxidiser or replaced usually 100ohms
Thanks for sharing. Now i know what's wrong with my Onkyo. I wanted to get it repaired but thinking about it probably cost more to repair than the actual receiver cost. 😞
You're an absolute professional My questions are, how much did you spend on parts for this repair? And how much does a professional like you charge for the whole repair?
Excellent ! Was wondering you can help with a query regarding identical AV receiver (TX SR606 ). I want to take out signal before amplification stage (basically I need pre out ). What I intended to do is , have a linkwitz Riley 24dB/ Octave 2 way active crossover for each channel and have separate amp powering high and low frequency in each of the channel . sounds crazy but I love those crossovers .It would be great help if you can tell me how to take pre out from this particular model of AV receiver.
I have a Blue ESR meter and in watching this you are saying for instance @21:39 you say a 220uf @ 25v should be less than 1/2ohm but the meter contradicts that I noticed this a few times am I reading the meter wrong or are you just going from memory and your old analog meter and not looking at the Blue ESR meter scale. Thanks love your videos. also found you from Grants Pass
I'm thinking the reason some transistor suppliers seems so cheap is because they have all of the transistors that don't match well. All of the expensive suppliers have the average ones that match well.
Steve, what was the part number on the little transistor glued in between the two taller ones? I have a similar Onyko with the two NPN and PNP power transistors blown. All other components are testing fine but that little one in the middle is visibly blown so I can't go by markings. @ 5:48 Also, can you tell us the part number for those emitter resistors?
The emitter resistors are .22ohm 5w x2 ( eBay is the only place I have been able to find them) the little transistor between the driver transistors is a 2sc1740s seen at 2:24 in the video
Bonjour, Je suis en train de réparer cet ampli, pouvez vous me donner la référence des plus petits composants s'il vous plait? Merci et bravo pour votre tuto👍
Datasheets will have a column which says Impedance at 100kHz ... at high frequencies Impedance is pretty much same as ESR, so you can use that value. As you repair things, you'll get an idea and you'll tend to remember what a capacitor of a specific capacitance and voltage rating (and volume, because that matters as well) should measure... Also keep in mind that capacitors can have different properties and in some circuits the ESR matters. A capacitor could have 0.1 ohm ESR and another capacitor of same capacitance and voltage rating could have 0.5 ohm esr ... they're both good, just different electrolyte formulas, different properties, maybe one is optimized for small diameter... and in some circuits the slightly higher ESR may be preferred.
Dismantling is not that bad. You keep the back panel attached and just disconnect a few cables from the front, then the entire internal structure lifts out as one. There is just enough cable to stand it on it's side over the transformer. Watch the last cable doesn't fold over as it wraps over the transformer while you lay the assembly down on it's side. I'm going to have to watch part 2 now to see if he works it out.
Hello, I have Samsung tv and I’m trying to fix the power supply board BN44-00264A, the secondary fuse(fm802S) blew. I found out that 2 mosfets (Q1820,1821)failed, someone on line posted that I should also check the smd transistors around this mosfets. They are like tiny black rectangular shape with one pin on top and 2 pins on bottom,labeled as Q1802,1803,1805,1806. I used multimeter on diode setting and I poked everyone of them on the circuit board and I’m getting readings even the black and red leads vise versa in all of them, I just want to know if they are bad too? Because I thought when Im getting a reading on positive lead on a pin, I should not get anything on the negative lead,is this right? Thanks in advanced
I'm curious if the customer followed your request and brought the speakers in for inspection, and if so whether anything probative came out of that. Would be great if you could comment on whether you found any new information about what actually lead to the failure in the first place.
So my takeaway from this is that it runs warm, and I dont see enough cooling in the system, would it be better to 'undervolt' the system? Im not familiar with repairs so I can only go off of my knowledge of pc solutions. If you want the system to run cooler you undervolt the cpu slightly (edit: this is something that can help the longevity of gaming laptops). Im curious if that would help a system like this?
I HAVE SAME PROBLEM ON MY AMPLIFIER IT WILL BE VERY HELPFULL FOR ME IF YOU CAN TELL ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE DRIVER TRANSISTOR THEY ARE THE ONES THAT LOOKING BURNEND INSIDE
Hi, tank you for sharing your repair. It is very usefull and detailed. Where do you find the repair manual in general? Good sites to share please ? Sorry for my english, i am french.
The microprocessor looks for several defects, missing power supply voltages as well as amplifier DC offset. If you don't see a DC offset on the power amp it probably has a power supply issue.
Had one similar Onkyo come to me, but it was scrapped, digital logic board was also faulty, losing channels and not responding to the system controls. Not worth repair, as it was not capable of video better than standard definition either, so was replaced with a new one that could handle HDMI input and output. It had spent the last decade acting as a radio amplifier.
Yeah I got all to you and it's got a problem of not wanting to turn down and I things with my Bluetooth can you give me a comment back or how much would it cost me thank you I'm dying to send it
8:45 Can someone who understands how this works explain to me how when he makes those little pools of solder that are so close together, why is it that they do not leak into each other and cause each other to short out? I always wonder that as I watch these types of videos. It all seems so close together on circuit boards I dont understand how its even possible to keep solder from a nearby connection out of it's neighbors way
Flux helps even solder flow. when soldering flux is your best friend. You may want to check out NorthridgeFix he does microsoldering and explains alot of what he does and why.
Flux is this magical stuff that makes solder read your mind and follow your will. Don't be shy using it and you will be amazed. Also avoid lead free solder.
Flux helps a lot (per other comments), but all it's doing is removing oxidation that gets in the way of a good connection. The main thing that keeps the solder together is surface tension. The solder essentially wants to "bead up", except where it touches other metal. The coated PCB area without traces acts as a barrier to the beading action and keeps the solder on its own side. Of course, you can put too much solder and wind up bridging the gap. But it takes a _lot_ of solder for that to happen. With a little practice, it's pretty easy on most PCBs to keep the solder amount well below what's needed for all the solder to stay on its own little island. :)
I am having similar amp and its display is very dim. Almost all the caps in the board which is under the HDMI board where two heatsinks are installed (chapter from your video The Gift that keeps on giving PT2) are bulged and about to explode. Probably that will solve the problem but before I start to fix My Amp keeps on switching On and Off in every second and Relay click sound is coming from the board which is stopping main transformer to power on. Do you suggest how to debug this and rectify the fault?
Post changing the Cap C9001 (470/63v) unit is started and display is back to normal. But now there is no sound on any channel. When I connect speaker there is small crack noise comes which is true sign of AMP is working . Any idea how to debug for audio?
Thanks for the reply. I have fixed the problem by replacing the caps . I am facing a weird problem , whenever I removed the Board and assemble it back it won’t sound. To resolve I need to reset the system and it worked again. Is this a normal behaviour that after every disassembly it needs to be reset . Once assembled back it never shows the problem and working fine for long hours without any prob .
Hi, I got your name from some other guy on yt. I am looking for the video eeprom of this onkyo receiver. It's q8085 on the hdmi board and I am looking for the bin file of this chi because mine is empty. Maybe you have a copy, it would be much appreciated
@@norcal715 Thks for getting back to me. I don't think the flash chip is bad because i can read it without a problem. It's just empty. My guess is that when the dc converters on the hdmi start oscillating because of bad caps flash somehow gets wiped. I flashed it with a TX-SR605 bin and it started working. But the OSD menu is different between the models. Anyway, thks fy response
@@norcal715 After all of the testing, disassembly, desoldering, new parts, resoldering, replacing capacitors and clean-up? As soon as parts are available, I'm pulling cash from my ATM and driving your way with my blown Onkyo TX-NR838.
Onkyo is notorious for hot HDMI boards. First make sure that yours is not powered on standby (depends on settings -- watch out for HDMI or Zone-2 pass-through). Then buy a quiet USB fan to put on top of the unit and set it to run at slow speed (will power-on whenever unit gives power to USB).
Entendez-vous le clic du relais du haut-parleur environ 5 secondes après la mise sous tension ? Vous pouvez toujours avoir un décalage DC élevé sur l'un des canaux.
These sets are built so cheaply. I don't like sanken transistors they always feel low quality and i always see more of these fail.. Everytime a car class ab car amplifier or any receiver comes upto me with blown output transistors made by sanken. I replace them witj 2sc5200n and 2sa1943n. Those transistors are better speced and never had one comeback. Those are so much more robust that if they comeback next time it's generally the powersupply section blown because the transistors are so strong and punks driving their amps into hard clipping cause them to blow up. I buy genuine ttc5200 or 2sc5200n. When replacing anything that had lower specd transistors than 2sc5200. And if the amp comes with 2sc5200 or ttc5200 then i only replace it with the O grade 2sc5200 that are more expensive but they have 30% larger die size and made in japan.. There are lots of fakes of these audio output transistors so i only buy from authorised toshiba dealers..
Why would there be so many bad components on these boards? Is Onkyo to blame for the number of problems? Do some manufacturers use "discount" components that are going to have a shorter life?
I think yes "discount" components payed a small part. I think the owner had units stacked on top of it without adequate ventilation. That is what I think killed all of those capacitors.
wow this is not for the unexperienced. I wouldnt even know what too look for. there are over 10 thousand things to check. lol only those who have a few hours or days can even have a chance to fix something like this if they have no idea where to start.
I don't know why but this is the kind of video that I enjoy the most
Great repair, my friend. I've got an Onkyo that just came in for repair. Really enjoy repairing vintage audio equipment. Awesome video!
Very well done, and nicely described! Thank you for an excellent repair video. I have a tx-sr607, which had only the display resistor problem. I was able to fix it myself... I learned a lot from this video. Thanks again!
Well done sir , i love watching your repairs
Well it sure turned into a restoration job very quickly :) That must have taken a few working hours to complete !
Thanks for the video !
Great instructional video.
Wow, it was a lot more work and know how than I thought.
Totally awsome, it kept on giving.
Great video! Thanks so much for the details in your videos. I was a big Onkyo fan at one point and repaired a couple of the flagship models and I currently have a lower end model that I gave up on awhile back. I gave up because it has the same protect turn off issues as this one. I already know that the fix will be the same as you have shown here, a ton of bad parts and a lot of work. I still have it and may get back to it given your inspiration. I also need a decent ESR meter as I also have an Anthem unit with bad caps on the HDMI boards, well at least one is leaking. The HDMI boards works sometimes and sometimes not. I watch your videos for knowledge and inspiration to get to some of these project I have sitting around. Thanks again for the content.
A big help! Thanks bro keep on sharing 🙌.
Excellent details , learnt a lot today .
great job steve,exellent work on audio systemand love to see your blue ESR meter
Bravo. I have TX-NR636 doing exactly the same. I hope one of your videos goes over testing the speaker/line integrity. This unit of mine has always been touchy. If HDMI couplers are used make sure they are high-quality. Those wall plate couplers are garbage and will give subtle maddening grief unending. Will edit updates.
What a find!! My SR606 died this summer. As an old retired e tech I thought I'd pull it open and poke around. I've always run on the principle that, like a light bulb, it's the initial surge that stresses components. So, like my 1976 SAE 2900 Parametric Equalizer, still on and humming away 24/7 waiting for me to use it's phono input. So I would also leave my 606 ON in the garage where I use it to drive 2 big speakers. But, stupid me, for not thinking of my South facing garage in Phoenix that regularly climbs to 120 deg in the summer! And NO fan!
My whole 606 pre-amp board is blacker than your 1 channel! Anyway, got my esr meter and ordered my caps. We'll see.
Cracks me up that at my age, they're calling this nice 7.1 Onkyo "Vintage" hahaha!
GREAT video!! Well done. Thanks!
I've always just fixed the original fault. It's crazy how likely it is that so many caps can be bad. I'll have to be more proactive at testing them. While the unit might work without new caps it's good preventative maintenance. Definitely worth doing from a business standpoint to avoid comebacks.
Very well said, I too would've just repaired the problem years back, but, nowadays with the Chinese electrolitics we can't take chances, especially now that I invested in an ESR meter several years ago and its worth its weight in gold.
I guess after that video, an ESR is a must on the bench.
you don't need caps. lol
Amazing work! I learned a lot. Now, if I can apply it to my old Onkyo. I definitely have a plan of attack now. Thanks so much!
I was introduced to your channel from grants pass tv. He said that I would be taking place as I've never been before in troubleshooting electronics if I visited your channel. Boy, he wasn't kidding!! I had your channel bookmarked, but I don't recall if I ever watched any of the videos on it before. Really really interesting stuff! I'm looking forward to watching more. I didn't understand how the circuit works that changes the bias on the outputs based on their temperature.
Great work! Very educational!
Awesome! Thanks so much. 🎉
very nice job.thenks for the video
WOW. Great video. That looks like a nightmare to disassemble.
A very good repair
Great job
Thank you for this repair documentation. I have an HT-R570 here on the bench that I'd really love to have operational so I can have some tunes. Failure mode: Standby lamp on all the time. Power on. Lamp goes out, transformer hums, no display, 1-2 sec then shuts down. I checked a few things on the standby psu side. No joy. One of the first things you said was check the output transistors. I found 2 dead shorted output transistors. Q6064,Q6065. To see if any changes occurred, I cut those two guys out....result: first I forgot to plug in the heat sink sensor, and I got another fail mode, but once I hooked that back up, standby lamp full on, power on, display comes on, able to select inputs, unit stays on. Heck yeah. I'll get those parts replaced.
Cool... Great job!!! Subbed.
Wow, these electrolytic s are just not getting any better, it reminds me of the older Mitsubishi widescreens that would have 100s of bad elec.caps.
Another enjoyable video and great job Steve.
Muito bom técnico em eletrônico (professor) amo eletrônica só não tive oportunidade de estudar, admiro muito essa profissão!
Tenho um onkio TX Sr 607 para concertar, aqui no Brasil não tem nada infelizmente!
Barra do Piraí RJ abraço
You earned your pay on that one. Most complex unit you've worked on since I've been watching. Looks like that unit could use some ventilation help keeping it cool. Those boards were definitely baked crispy! Please pass the butter and knife, thanks!
In fact I added a 5v horizontal laptop cooler fan above the power transistor heatsink, to improve venting the hot air upwards and outwards through the vents!
@@zs1dfr That's was a smart pro-active thing you invested it.
If it seems like it can can get to warn, what a few extra $$ more to be certain. Good job
nice, very artistic
excellent but very complicated for any random person to follow, but appreciate you efforts
Grate video on a side note what would cause a teac av receiver to vary the volume on its own
I have this machine with same On0ff issue; this was helpful - but our speaker thingys are all copper with no burned looking spots, guess we have a diff problem.
Excellent repair! I'm happy to see that you choose to replace all the Capacitors across all the channels even though 1 or 2 were showing up okay...
I have to ask, do you check for size comparability with the new Capacitors? Or do you just order the same voltage and capacity value?
And also... Have you ever considered going up in voltage rating on the Capacitor when it's located next to or close to a heat source?
Because by going up in voltage capacity, the capacitor will have better heat tolerance...
I have been looking into the Panasonic Capacitor datasheet and it shows how by going up in voltage extends the life of the Capacitor... It's just a thought that I wanted to put out there.... It's just a preventative measure... Keeps that device from retuning to you bench and leaves the door open for new devices and customers that got referred to you...
you can buy high temp caps. if you go up in capacitance you should also go up in voltage, not all applications allow variation in capacitance, only voltage, changing the values, either voltage or capacitance will change the ESR the in series resistance of the capacitor.
Great video mate. The only thing that's probably not been changed is the Power Transformer and the outer metal casing 😂😂
We see so so many Onkyo receivers failing due to overheating. Makes me wonder if there are some serious design issues with these. Ideally ABRs should go to protect mode if heat is detected more than the defined threshold. Probably the design engineers were not up to the mark.
Mine is doing the same thing I watched both parts of your video afterwards me and mine took a short walk to the dumpster
Sorry.
often the bias potentiometers become oxidised or even blown open from the damaged power transistors. Either way it needs to be checked and pots cleaned with a deoxidiser or replaced usually 100ohms
Thanks for sharing. Now i know what's wrong with my Onkyo. I wanted to get it repaired but thinking about it probably cost more to repair than the actual receiver cost. 😞
This 606 repair was $200 USD, although I really didn't make much of a profit. I didn't expect all of those caps to be bad. Oh well, customer is happy.
Can you please advise where can I get ONKYO HT-R395 repair manual/schematic?
1:50 What is that tool you are using does that melt the solder and then suck it up afterwards all-in-one device?
I have one need some work . But I am in the Bahamas
Hi i wanted to ask did you turn the idle current screws to the lowest possible before turning on ?
Mn130s and mp130s are available in online stores
Love these videos I wish you could be able to have a look at my Denon amp
send me an email norcal715videos@gmail.com
@@norcal715 thank you very much for reaching out to me..
You're an absolute professional
My questions are, how much did you spend on parts for this repair? And how much does a professional like you charge for the whole repair?
I think the part cost was in the $50-75, and the total repair was only $200
Excellent ! Was wondering you can help with a query regarding identical AV receiver (TX SR606 ). I want to take out signal before amplification stage (basically I need pre out ). What I intended to do is , have a linkwitz Riley 24dB/ Octave 2 way active crossover for each channel and have separate amp powering high and low frequency in each of the channel . sounds crazy but I love those crossovers .It would be great help if you can tell me how to take pre out from this particular model of AV receiver.
Oui merci de me repondre, j'entends en effet le clic du relai l'ampli reste allumé mais je n'ai aucun son
I have a Blue ESR meter and in watching this you are saying for instance @21:39 you say a 220uf @ 25v should be less than 1/2ohm but the meter contradicts that I noticed this a few times am I reading the meter wrong or are you just going from memory and your old analog meter and not looking at the Blue ESR meter scale. Thanks love your videos. also found you from Grants Pass
3:10 - refreshed used scrap or fakes? For example 2SC5171/2SA1930 should have DC current gain at least 100 (at low Ic)
I'm thinking the reason some transistor suppliers seems so cheap is because they have all of the transistors that don't match well. All of the expensive suppliers have the average ones that match well.
Steve, what was the part number on the little transistor glued in between the two taller ones? I have a similar Onyko with the two NPN and PNP power transistors blown. All other components are testing fine but that little one in the middle is visibly blown so I can't go by markings. @ 5:48
Also, can you tell us the part number for those emitter resistors?
The emitter resistors are .22ohm 5w x2 ( eBay is the only place I have been able to find them) the little transistor between the driver transistors is a 2sc1740s seen at 2:24 in the video
Great Repair. Where did you get the .22 ohm Emitter resistors to buy? I have been lookin for them and cannot find them.
from ebay
Bonjour,
Je suis en train de réparer cet ampli, pouvez vous me donner la référence des plus petits composants s'il vous plait?
Merci et bravo pour votre tuto👍
wow.
Hello,
Can you give me the reference of the driver temperature regulator transistor please?
I don’t see it on the diagram.
Thank you
I have a 507 with the same problem, after viewing this video I'm scare to try the same repair 😱
Is there a listing somewhere for the capacitor values and what they should measure?
Datasheets will have a column which says Impedance at 100kHz ... at high frequencies Impedance is pretty much same as ESR, so you can use that value. As you repair things, you'll get an idea and you'll tend to remember what a capacitor of a specific capacitance and voltage rating (and volume, because that matters as well) should measure...
Also keep in mind that capacitors can have different properties and in some circuits the ESR matters. A capacitor could have 0.1 ohm ESR and another capacitor of same capacitance and voltage rating could have 0.5 ohm esr ... they're both good, just different electrolyte formulas, different properties, maybe one is optimized for small diameter... and in some circuits the slightly higher ESR may be preferred.
Dismantling is not that bad. You keep the back panel attached and just disconnect a few cables from the front, then the entire internal structure lifts out as one. There is just enough cable to stand it on it's side over the transformer. Watch the last cable doesn't fold over as it wraps over the transformer while you lay the assembly down on it's side. I'm going to have to watch part 2 now to see if he works it out.
Hello, I have Samsung tv and I’m trying to fix the power supply board BN44-00264A, the secondary fuse(fm802S) blew. I found out that 2 mosfets (Q1820,1821)failed, someone on line posted that I should also check the smd transistors around this mosfets. They are like tiny black rectangular shape with one pin on top and 2 pins on bottom,labeled as Q1802,1803,1805,1806.
I used multimeter on diode setting and I poked everyone of them on the circuit board and I’m getting readings even the black and red leads vise versa in all of them, I just want to know if they are bad too? Because I thought when Im getting a reading on positive lead on a pin, I should not get anything on the negative lead,is this right? Thanks in advanced
Its been too long since I worked on these units. Without having it on my bench there is not much I can do. Sorry.
I'm curious if the customer followed your request and brought the speakers in for inspection, and if so whether anything probative came out of that. Would be great if you could comment on whether you found any new information about what actually lead to the failure in the first place.
They said there are not even any speakers attached the that output. I attribute to bad capacitors 100%
So my takeaway from this is that it runs warm, and I dont see enough cooling in the system, would it be better to 'undervolt' the system? Im not familiar with repairs so I can only go off of my knowledge of pc solutions. If you want the system to run cooler you undervolt the cpu slightly (edit: this is something that can help the longevity of gaming laptops). Im curious if that would help a system like this?
I’m trying to find someone who can tell me what wrong with my onkyo tx-nr 757 it as no sound it still come on
I HAVE SAME PROBLEM ON MY AMPLIFIER IT WILL BE VERY HELPFULL FOR ME IF YOU CAN TELL ME THE PART NUMBER FOR THE DRIVER TRANSISTOR THEY ARE THE ONES THAT LOOKING BURNEND INSIDE
Hi, tank you for sharing your repair. It is very usefull and detailed. Where do you find the repair manual in general? Good sites to share please ? Sorry for my english, i am french.
Usually hifiengine.com or elektrotanya.com Between these sites you can find 80-90% of manuals.
@@norcal715 🤗
Hi there I have a onkyo tx-nr 757 my onkyo has no dts chip
Mine does that same problem but no bad resisters no bad caps no bad wiring I Evan tried to reset it and it still won't stay on plz help me
The microprocessor looks for several defects, missing power supply voltages as well as amplifier DC offset. If you don't see a DC offset on the power amp it probably has a power supply issue.
Had one similar Onkyo come to me, but it was scrapped, digital logic board was also faulty, losing channels and not responding to the system controls. Not worth repair, as it was not capable of video better than standard definition either, so was replaced with a new one that could handle HDMI input and output. It had spent the last decade acting as a radio amplifier.
Yeah I got all to you and it's got a problem of not wanting to turn down and I things with my Bluetooth can you give me a comment back or how much would it cost me thank you I'm dying to send it
How much does something like this run I have the same unit same issue with a non working display
Its hard to say depending on what the failure is. email me Norcal715videos@gmail.com for details.
Well done
Any equivalent for mn130 and mp 130 please help
What brand/model is it in?
Onkyo txsr 605 please help
Any suggestions??
So, I have a tx-nr828 that needs repair. Wouldn't it be cheaper just to replace it?
Hard to say until it is diagnosed.
Hi can u share me details from where u have sourced the parts please..
Mouser Electronics
How much does a repair like this cost (the customer)?
8:45 Can someone who understands how this works explain to me how when he makes those little pools of solder that are so close together, why is it that they do not leak into each other and cause each other to short out? I always wonder that as I watch these types of videos. It all seems so close together on circuit boards I dont understand how its even possible to keep solder from a nearby connection out of it's neighbors way
Flux helps even solder flow. when soldering flux is your best friend. You may want to check out NorthridgeFix he does microsoldering and explains alot of what he does and why.
Flux is this magical stuff that makes solder read your mind and follow your will. Don't be shy using it and you will be amazed. Also avoid lead free solder.
Flux helps a lot (per other comments), but all it's doing is removing oxidation that gets in the way of a good connection. The main thing that keeps the solder together is surface tension. The solder essentially wants to "bead up", except where it touches other metal. The coated PCB area without traces acts as a barrier to the beading action and keeps the solder on its own side.
Of course, you can put too much solder and wind up bridging the gap. But it takes a _lot_ of solder for that to happen. With a little practice, it's pretty easy on most PCBs to keep the solder amount well below what's needed for all the solder to stay on its own little island. :)
@@harvey66616 This was the answer I was looking for. Thanks
Do you know what caused the parts to fail in the 1st place?
Most likely the bad capacitors causing a oscillation.
Hello sir I need 2 transister mn100s
Sur' Which liquid is used to clean....???
Usually ACETONE! The magical solution.
I am having similar amp and its display is very dim. Almost all the caps in the board which is under the HDMI board where two heatsinks are installed (chapter from your video The Gift that keeps on giving PT2) are bulged and about to explode. Probably that will solve the problem but before I start to fix My Amp keeps on switching On and Off in every second and Relay click sound is coming from the board which is stopping main transformer to power on.
Do you suggest how to debug this and rectify the fault?
Post changing the Cap C9001 (470/63v) unit is started and display is back to normal. But now there is no sound on any channel. When I connect speaker there is small crack noise comes which is true sign of AMP is working . Any idea how to debug for audio?
@@Mots-mot i know this is late and i aint no technician but check the driver board or just the resistors near the transmitors and yh
Thanks for the reply. I have fixed the problem by replacing the caps .
I am facing a weird problem , whenever I removed the Board and assemble it back it won’t sound. To resolve I need to reset the system and it worked again. Is this a normal behaviour that after every disassembly it needs to be reset . Once assembled back it never shows the problem and working fine for long hours without any prob .
@@Mots-mot I mean for new capacitors and that possibly
My onkyo receiver shut down immediately few seconds when powering on why sir
Prolly short-circuit
I have onkyo ht-R397 and won't even power on.
What’s your location I’ve got one that needs work
I am in Chico, CA. Email me norcal715videos@gmail.com
Hi, I got your name from some other guy on yt. I am looking for the video eeprom of this onkyo receiver. It's q8085 on the hdmi board and I am looking for the bin file of this chi because mine is empty. Maybe you have a copy, it would be much appreciated
Sorry, I do not. Try heating, and cooling it to see if you can retrieve the data with a eeprom reader. Let me know how it goes.
@@norcal715 Thks for getting back to me. I don't think the flash chip is bad because i can read it without a problem. It's just empty. My guess is that when the dc converters on the hdmi start oscillating because of bad caps flash somehow gets wiped. I flashed it with a TX-SR605 bin and it started working. But the OSD menu is different between the models. Anyway, thks fy response
I have a unit with the same problem but it is SR607. How much is the repair?
This repair was $200 USD
@@norcal715 After all of the testing, disassembly, desoldering, new parts, resoldering, replacing capacitors and clean-up? As soon as parts are available, I'm pulling cash from my ATM and driving your way with my blown Onkyo TX-NR838.
I love the analog meter. It might be but analog meters register my brain faster.
Why my onkyo receiver tx-sr309 over heating sir
Onkyo is notorious for hot HDMI boards. First make sure that yours is not powered on standby (depends on settings -- watch out for HDMI or Zone-2 pass-through). Then buy a quiet USB fan to put on top of the unit and set it to run at slow speed (will power-on whenever unit gives power to USB).
j'ai reussi a ce que mon ampli reste allumé en changeant les transistors et resistances mais aucun son ne sort de cet ampli
Entendez-vous le clic du relais du haut-parleur environ 5 secondes après la mise sous tension ? Vous pouvez toujours avoir un décalage DC élevé sur l'un des canaux.
et donc cela signifie quoi? que dois je regarder de plus?
How much does a repair like this cost?
this repair was around $250USD
How much was the bill?
Approximately $200 USD
These sets are built so cheaply.
I don't like sanken transistors they always feel low quality and i always see more of these fail..
Everytime a car class ab car amplifier or any receiver comes upto me with blown output transistors made by sanken. I replace them witj 2sc5200n and 2sa1943n. Those transistors are better speced and never had one comeback.
Those are so much more robust that if they comeback next time it's generally the powersupply section blown because the transistors are so strong and punks driving their amps into hard clipping cause them to blow up.
I buy genuine ttc5200 or 2sc5200n. When replacing anything that had lower specd transistors than 2sc5200.
And if the amp comes with 2sc5200 or ttc5200 then i only replace it with the O grade 2sc5200 that are more expensive but they have 30% larger die size and made in japan..
There are lots of fakes of these audio output transistors so i only buy from authorised toshiba dealers..
Why would there be so many bad components on these boards? Is Onkyo to blame for the number of problems? Do some manufacturers use "discount" components that are going to have a shorter life?
I think yes "discount" components payed a small part. I think the owner had units stacked on top of it without adequate ventilation. That is what I think killed all of those capacitors.
I'm trying to uy a broken TX-DS 696 to repair but it turns out it weighs over 15kg and is going to cost a fortune to ship. lol
They are heavy!
$$$$$
wow this is not for the unexperienced. I wouldnt even know what too look for. there are over 10 thousand things to check. lol only those who have a few hours or days can even have a chance to fix something like this if they have no idea where to start.
Great job