Next 2 videos will cover using actions from Lumenzia, as well as how to use similar actions for free in Photoshop. The Photoshop video will have a download link to a free action so that you can follow along easily. Have an amazing day!
Once you learn the process, it becomes sp insanely simple you hardly have to think about where or how to pop a light for any given scene. Let me know if you have any questions!
Brandon, this is a great video, and it provides a lot of details. Many thanks for the video. I noticed in a couple of videos that you are bumping into your 1/250 flash sync ceiling when you do window pulls. Do you ever drop your ISO down rather than just use your shutter speed? I haven't tried it myself yet, but I don't think the lower noise level would negatively impact the image.
@@BrandonWattsREP It helped. I ran around with the AD400 Pro for the larger rooms to rain down light on the opposite wall. Then used the gradient approach to mask out the desired area. Worked beautifully. Have a great one!
It would be helpful if you could maybe go over why you use certain blend modes and how to know which blend mode is gonna fix for example discoloration and stuff.
I can definitely do that. I just added it to the list, should be a good topic over the differences, similarities, and why I use one over the other. Thank you for the suggestion!
That's your max sync speed. Once you cross over that, your shutter can no longer keep up with the speed of the flash, so only part of the frame gets illuminated.
@@chrisxu6471 Unfortunately not, unless! - You have a flash that supports a High-Sync Speed function, at which point you'll just turn on HSS and you'll be allowed to scroll past 1/250. - Or you buy a flash that has a higher sync speed. Though I think 1/250 is usually as high as most flash-heads will go. So you're best bet is to utilize HSS or get a flash that does. If you don't have a flash with this option, then the other route would be to get a neutral density filter that will cut down the light even more. This would be a cheaper option compared to buying another flash. I've done both, bought a new flash and bought an ND filter and I'd say I prefer the flash since it's less gear that I need to keep track of. Though quite frankly, both options are basically the same in terms of results.
This video is very good but it is not efficient because it takes too much time, HDR would give you almost the same result, if you take all that time I don't think you will have many monthly profits, how do you edit 5 properties in one day to deliver them the next day ? it is impossible
Next 2 videos will cover using actions from Lumenzia, as well as how to use similar actions for free in Photoshop.
The Photoshop video will have a download link to a free action so that you can follow along easily.
Have an amazing day!
Master class
pretty complicated stuff, but I think its good to learn the hard way sometimes as It will come in handy in the future. Good tut
Once you learn the process, it becomes sp insanely simple you hardly have to think about where or how to pop a light for any given scene. Let me know if you have any questions!
Brandon, this is a great video, and it provides a lot of details. Many thanks for the video. I noticed in a couple of videos that you are bumping into your 1/250 flash sync ceiling when you do window pulls. Do you ever drop your ISO down rather than just use your shutter speed? I haven't tried it myself yet, but I don't think the lower noise level would negatively impact the image.
Very nice tutorial thank you.
Thank you!!!!
Much appreciated! Thanks you, sir.
I hope it helped!
@@BrandonWattsREP It helped. I ran around with the AD400 Pro for the larger rooms to rain down light on the opposite wall. Then used the gradient approach to mask out the desired area. Worked beautifully. Have a great one!
That's amazing to hear and thank you for the new expression "Rain down light" lol, I love that 😄
It would be helpful if you could maybe go over why you use certain blend modes and how to know which blend mode is gonna fix for example discoloration and stuff.
I can definitely do that. I just added it to the list, should be a good topic over the differences, similarities, and why I use one over the other. Thank you for the suggestion!
I'm using a Canon R5 camera and when my shutter speed exceeds 1/250, half of my flash image will be obscured by black, what's wrong with me?
That's your max sync speed. Once you cross over that, your shutter can no longer keep up with the speed of the flash, so only part of the frame gets illuminated.
@@BrandonWattsREP Can this max sync speed be adjusted?
@@chrisxu6471 Unfortunately not, unless!
- You have a flash that supports a High-Sync Speed function, at which point you'll just turn on HSS and you'll be allowed to scroll past 1/250.
- Or you buy a flash that has a higher sync speed. Though I think 1/250 is usually as high as most flash-heads will go. So you're best bet is to utilize HSS or get a flash that does.
If you don't have a flash with this option, then the other route would be to get a neutral density filter that will cut down the light even more. This would be a cheaper option compared to buying another flash.
I've done both, bought a new flash and bought an ND filter and I'd say I prefer the flash since it's less gear that I need to keep track of. Though quite frankly, both options are basically the same in terms of results.
This video is very good but it is not efficient because it takes too much time, HDR would give you almost the same result, if you take all that time I don't think you will have many monthly profits, how do you edit 5 properties in one day to deliver them the next day ? it is impossible
Thank you, but too much work and time
And looks too bright and not natural looking for my taste