This is not how you deal with rust stains, Hypo Chlorite causes rust in ferrous metals. Use sulfamic acid or better yet OXALIC acid, pump up sprayer, soak it good and let it sit for awhile, then come back at a reasonable distance with a 40 deg. tip and rinse, retreat where needed.
I would tried Oxalic acid. It's a great rust stain remover. 8 ounces of oxalic acid to a gallon of water in a pump up sprayer works really good. Spray it on. And let it work.
Try cleaning vinegar and baking soda spray some vinegar in a sprayer and then take some baking soda an throw it on the wall an that Rust will come off Then wash it with your pressure washer
Tony Ayala it's an xjet for applying chems. The ball valve below it is our shut off valve for switching from surface cleaner to gun or dialing back pressure
Hey Rob, I gotta real 'head-scratcher' about this video...😲 I'm very surprised you didn't let your Sauce dwell longer. Within just 60 seconds, you were blasting the wall like a "rookie" relying on the damaging HP to remove the rust - and paint, masonry, & mortar. ...and that's definitely not you bro!!?? 😵 You know to use the right Sauce for the situation. Apply with an electric 4/gl sprayer, 10 minutes to dwell and a light fanmist with your MEG nozzle after 5 to reactivate. Never "recharge" your Sauce after 5 with more Sauce. But you already know that I'm sure. But an X-Jet?? · Ineffective watered-down Sauce · Damaging HP · Wasted chemicals You and I are Elitists who pride ourselves on the fact that we know and believe that we can professionally clean/restore/sanitize/deodorize/disinfect any surface under any conditions on any day. Whether you're removing rust, oxidation from various building materials, or organic/inorganic stains, it's just simply reducing the coefficient of friction from the source through increasing/decreasing the pH until the proper balance is obtained. Not trying to preach bro, I was just surprised. I need to also be mindful of the fact that I don't know all the other factors. Time, price, etc., so take this comment with a grain of salt. No disrespect intended. God Bless you and yours & thanks again for representing us passionate pro's with the integrity you always have. ☆
$5000 job, xjet for this project was ideal because of how much rust was everywhere. The job was PREP TO REPAINT. Specifically requested to use high pressure. We had to blast off years of bad paint. I reapplied because of how thick the rust was. It needed more of it. Also for making this video not be a 20 minute video
@@Cleanpowerwash your pretty good a beating around the bush bro... so they are repainting it with out addressing whats actually leaching rust and want you to come clean it every year the client sounds ignorant...
It was 11 month old product. The pressure washer did nothing. It was xjetted on. To be honest on this job it was an excuse to use up the last of the old product before ordering a fresh shipment.
Hi Rob, are you ordering the same after this, or changing to F9 or OX, and did you try the other 2, which do you think works best for this kind of surface rust? Thank you.
Muratic acid works great on rust stains
Will this product dilute chemical’s and if so by how much? Thank you.
An xjet cuts the product from the bucket 1 to 3 or lower.
This is not how you deal with rust stains, Hypo Chlorite causes rust in ferrous metals. Use sulfamic acid or better yet OXALIC acid, pump up sprayer, soak it good and let it sit for awhile, then come back at a reasonable distance with a 40 deg. tip and rinse, retreat where needed.
We didn't use SH. Yes we should have let it dwell longer. These days we let it dwell and it certainly does not need a 40 degree tip to remove rust.
Safety Glasses¿¿¿
I would tried Oxalic acid. It's a great rust stain remover. 8 ounces of oxalic acid to a gallon of water in a pump up sprayer works really good. Spray it on. And let it work.
Stole my suggestion... MY MAN!
Try cleaning vinegar and baking soda spray some vinegar in a sprayer and then take some baking soda an throw it on the wall an that Rust will come off Then wash it with your pressure washer
Sherieanne Bellant vinegar is not safe to use near several other chems we use.
Agreed Vinegar around sodium hypochlorite is dangerous and toxic
What's the best stuff from home depot to remove rust From a driveway?
Richard mendez haven't found anything at lowes, home depot, ace hardware to work. Buy this stuff from powerwash.com
Phosphoric acid works for me
@@Cleanpowerwash .....Iron out works great its only 12 bucks
@@ufcsportswear Can you post a picture or video so we can see the details about using iron out for rust removal on different surfaces?
Next time look into using acid. Just make sure you have a lot of baking soda.
that one might have got the best of you
Awesome! Sorry to keep bugging you... what %sh do you reccomend using
12.5 is all we use
Thanks! Last question... when you do a roof you just apply your mixture and not rinse? What about run off due to rain... will that damage plants
I cant find 12.5, only thing pool stores around here have is 10.5
About what percentage more chemical can you get out of an xjet vs. Downstream injection?
cody kirkand 33%
How much would you charge for an area this big.
250+
What chemical are you using to get the rust off
Arthur Moore I mentioned the product in the first 2 seconds... RR÷
Clean Power Wash ok couldn't hear you that well
@@Cleanpowerwash ...... the audio is not clear so its hard to decipher what your saying
What is that sound of your pressure washer, I imagine it’s some kind of system you have installed to release heated from your pump.
Nathaniel Miller ? Not sure what you are asking
It is the bypass cycling to release the heat build up in the pump
I belive it a leaking system when he gets of the trigger the systems reving as the pressure open and closes what is probably a split O ring
Who does your shirts?
Finprint
@@Cleanpowerwash Thank you
So in the tank you have pure SH? What's the ratio of the dilution for the xjet?
It did got clean or what?
Yes
Did you end up applying RR+ with a pump up sprayer to try and get stronger ratio or would that not have made a difference?
What is the tip your using to apply this and what kind of wand is that. I'm seeing another valve beneath the handle.
Tony Ayala it's an xjet for applying chems. The ball valve below it is our shut off valve for switching from surface cleaner to gun or dialing back pressure
SH will only clean organic growth, you need oxalic acid for rust but I really would sort your PPE out first
We are not using SH...
Thats a job for 50% Muratic acid to 50% water #spayerpump
Hey Rob, I gotta real 'head-scratcher' about this video...😲
I'm very surprised you didn't let your Sauce dwell longer. Within just 60 seconds, you were blasting the wall like a "rookie" relying on the damaging HP to remove the rust - and paint, masonry, & mortar.
...and that's definitely not you bro!!?? 😵
You know to use the right Sauce for the situation. Apply with an electric 4/gl sprayer, 10 minutes to dwell and a light fanmist with your MEG nozzle after 5 to reactivate.
Never "recharge" your Sauce after 5 with more Sauce. But you already know that I'm sure.
But an X-Jet??
· Ineffective watered-down Sauce
· Damaging HP
· Wasted chemicals
You and I are Elitists who pride ourselves on the fact that we know and believe that we can professionally clean/restore/sanitize/deodorize/disinfect any surface under any conditions on any day.
Whether you're removing rust, oxidation from various building materials, or organic/inorganic stains, it's just simply reducing the coefficient of friction from the source through increasing/decreasing the pH until the proper balance is obtained.
Not trying to preach bro, I was just surprised.
I need to also be mindful of the fact that I don't know all the other factors.
Time, price, etc., so take this comment with a grain of salt.
No disrespect intended.
God Bless you and yours & thanks again for representing us passionate pro's with the integrity you always have. ☆
Mitch Meier for reading all of it can i please get those 4 ingredients ✌😇🤙
$5000 job, xjet for this project was ideal because of how much rust was everywhere. The job was PREP TO REPAINT. Specifically requested to use high pressure. We had to blast off years of bad paint.
I reapplied because of how thick the rust was. It needed more of it. Also for making this video not be a 20 minute video
@@Cleanpowerwash couldnt possibly of been at the request of a professional painter or builder.... good score for you though i guess....
This is a dog food facility that has to be redone annually. We cleaned it properly and per the request and specifications of client
@@Cleanpowerwash your pretty good a beating around the bush bro... so they are repainting it with out addressing whats actually leaching rust and want you to come clean it every year the client sounds ignorant...
What your sh ratio
0. Sh and rust remover would create toxic gas
@@Cleanpowerwash no i mean for your soft wash on house wash
1-1.5% sh. Look for the house washing videos
@@Cleanpowerwash thank you
I would use a hand Pump & spray Oxalic acid 1 minute you will see the different NorthEastsoftwash New York. Chris BigMack
Were you using F9
Mr. Davis rust remover plus from powerwash.com
It was 11 month old product. The pressure washer did nothing. It was xjetted on. To be honest on this job it was an excuse to use up the last of the old product before ordering a fresh shipment.
Pressure was used on the loose paint which is what we were actually hired for.
Hi Rob, are you ordering the same after this, or changing to F9 or OX, and did you try the other 2, which do you think works best for this kind of surface rust? Thank you.