Just got into jewellery and looking at rolling mills. Your video here is the first ive watched outside of Durston, which I cant afford at the moment. So rather than wait, I think it might be better to look at more economy models. So, thank you for making this video, as this is one model that I looked at tonight. Cheers. Happy Rolling.
As someone who just got into this as a hobby, and I do sell what I make, but I don't make much. I make reproduction fur trade era items for reenactors, crosses, dangles, pendants etc. I haven't even tried working with Sterling silver yet, right now I am working with nickel silver and copper because they're cheaper for cost for me, and when I sell my work, because reenacting overall is such an expensive hobby as it is overall, I only charge $10-$15 per item anyway, so a big expensive mill wouldn't be worth it for me, but something like this mill would be perfect.
This is the one I'm looking at for my first rolling mill. Just to start. What I learned is the cheaper mills rollers aren't as hard as the top line mills. Like putting a big ingot of gold could ruin the roller. Where as in a Durston it be no problem.
Although I show a quick way to level the rollers, I have another video where I show how to use feeler guages to properly level them. th-cam.com/video/oMhQAVIIMOI/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever used the half round roller extensions on this roller mill? Is there any play or movement when rolling ingots or material through the smaller extensions? Or is it solid and doesn’t have any play or room to wiggle/toggle at all?
Which one of their mills did you get the 4.4" one or one of the others, what is the gear reduction ratio? Are there screws or welds that hold the base to the sides? The reason I am asking is because they don't have one that is as wide as I need and if it can be taken all apart I was going to buy one and rebuild it to fit my need. That looks real nice I hope it works well for you for as long as you need/want it. Thanks man
it's the 4.4" the gear reduction is spec'd at 1:2.5. I unbolted it from my bench and took a look at the bottom. It does look like it's bolted together., but I'm not guaranteeing that it can be taken apart, I don't know enough about how it might be joined together besides the bolts.
@@stephentoons Ok, thanks a to, I guess I missed the specs. It is probably just the bolts, I can't see any welds showing in the pictures , thanks a ton.
Hi me again buddy So I’ve had the mill a while now and I’m totally stuck I can’t get lower then the 2mm track on the roller I need to make 1.5mm wire but when I come off the 2mm track on to the 1.5mm it’s to wide so messes it up leaves flat tracks on the wire My technique I start with a gold Ingot same size as 7mm track and keep working and tightening making my way to the last setting on 7mm Then repeat on the next track Which I anneal every 4-5 presses working my way down in tightness on each track Goes great until I get to the tightest on 2mm track Then look how wide it is which is definitely to wide for the 1.5mm track I think reason it’s mashed up How can I get around this please
be sure that on each pass you rotate the wire 90 degrees for the next pass, you're probably already doing that but just in case... When you get to the tightest 2mm pass, and then a second pass with the wire rotated 90 degrees, does the wire measure about 2mm? Next, when you go for the 1.5mm track, go very slowly , you put the wire in, tighten it down so it catches, back it out, then tighten it down a small amount more, make the pass, rotate the wire, make the pass again and repeat... If you go too fast you will get the effect you are seeing, I'm hoping if you go slower and be sure to make a pass, rotate, do the pass again, tighten slightly and repeat that it will work a lot better. Also last time it sounded like you were wanting round wire, it's also possible to use the mill to get down to 2mm as you're not having a problem with that, then switch to a round draw plate to round it and bring it down to the desired diameter.
@@stephentoons thanks for that I will try doing what you say And yes the draw plate I Have tried but it kept snapping It’s 24k gold so very soft I am going to leave the gold for now and practice with silver I just thought I was doing it all wrong but from the videos I watched they don’t show the whole process… starting at 7mm and tightening all the way on the track Then moving to the next size down and repeat So I thought maybe then do a few presses in each track and work down ? And yes correct When I finish on the 2nm track it’s 2mm wide so to big for the 1.5mm track Then flanges when I do press in that track Completely ruins it
@@stephentoons yea that’s what I thought thanks I just bought and it and notice I think I’ll buy a draw plate tho and pull threw that With 24k gold it should do the trick
Was thinking to buy this but...On their website in the description it says that with this mill you can make square, round and halfround wire but in the picture i can´t see any roller with round groove. Can you tell if it is possible to make round wire with this? Thank you for possible answer. Good video btw.
The 4 in 1 has a separate sets of round groves , between between the square and flat . I couldn't find a 4 in 1 in the vevor, but I did with the ctismice 4 in 1 rolling mill on amazon.
Having using it many times i can confirm, it has grooves to make round wire. And i have been very happy with this mill. I can recommend this mill for those who does not spend so much on a mill.
Did that dent or knick your rollers? It looks like it damaged your rollers in the video if you look carefully. I’d really like to know because I am trying to get a rolling mill but don’t want to get the vevor if the rollers get damaged that easily. Thank you for your time.
@@stephentoons thank you for the fast reply! I am trying to find the Rockwell hardness (HRC) if these rollers. It says it’s 40 chrome steel, but I can’t find the hardness of that. Would you happen to know what the Rockwell hardness (HRC) of your rollers are?
@@stephentoons thank you. How long have you had your mill and how often do you use it? Have you ever cranked it down a little too much to see if it will withstand the little bit more of pressure?
@@austinwallace118 I've had it since around when I posted this video. I don't use it frequently. When you use a rolling mill, you don't crank it down too much. The idea is to make several passes with small changes to the spacing between the rollers otherwise you'll mess up your material. For instance if you crank it down too much at once you might crack the piece you are rolling, or cause it to curve, or wrap around the roller. Since I'm using soft metals (Compared to hardened steel), I don't think at all about possible damage to the rollers. I would not run hard metals like steel through this mill.
I am thinking of buying this rolling mill for my birthday!!
Just got into jewellery and looking at rolling mills. Your video here is the first ive watched outside of Durston, which I cant afford at the moment. So rather than wait, I think it might be better to look at more economy models.
So, thank you for making this video, as this is one model that I looked at tonight. Cheers. Happy Rolling.
As someone who just got into this as a hobby, and I do sell what I make, but I don't make much. I make reproduction fur trade era items for reenactors, crosses, dangles, pendants etc. I haven't even tried working with Sterling silver yet, right now I am working with nickel silver and copper because they're cheaper for cost for me, and when I sell my work, because reenacting overall is such an expensive hobby as it is overall, I only charge $10-$15 per item anyway, so a big expensive mill wouldn't be worth it for me, but something like this mill would be perfect.
Thanks. It's nice to see that specific model.
You're most welcome. I've put youtube aside for a couple weeks, but soon I'll have more videos involving this rolling mill
This is the one I'm looking at for my first rolling mill. Just to start. What I learned is the cheaper mills rollers aren't as hard as the top line mills. Like putting a big ingot of gold could ruin the roller. Where as in a Durston it be no problem.
Very useful. Thanks. I will check out another of your videos.
Although I show a quick way to level the rollers, I have another video where I show how to use feeler guages to properly level them. th-cam.com/video/oMhQAVIIMOI/w-d-xo.html
Have you ever used the half round roller extensions on this roller mill? Is there any play or movement when rolling ingots or material through the smaller extensions? Or is it solid and doesn’t have any play or room to wiggle/toggle at all?
Wow yours came in a lot better shape than mine stuff missing no directions no t handle and gears basically just a boat anchor when it showed up
You've had it for a year. Still working good? Thanks.
Omg. I just got it. So heavyyyyy. I got no instructions so hopefully I can get this set.
hi. take a look at this video too where I show how to use feeler gauges to properly level the rollers. th-cam.com/video/oMhQAVIIMOI/w-d-xo.html
Hola, como va? me gustaría adquirir uno y me serviría mucho tu opinión.
I take it you removed all the grease ? Mine has a heavier grease on it. Will I need to replace it when its not in use ? I need to get using mine !
Which one of their mills did you get the 4.4" one or one of the others, what is the gear reduction ratio? Are there screws or welds that hold the base to the sides? The reason I am asking is because they don't have one that is as wide as I need and if it can be taken all apart I was going to buy one and rebuild it to fit my need. That looks real nice I hope it works well for you for as long as you need/want it. Thanks man
I'll try to get back to you soon with more information.
it's the 4.4" the gear reduction is spec'd at 1:2.5. I unbolted it from my bench and took a look at the bottom. It does look like it's bolted together., but I'm not guaranteeing that it can be taken apart, I don't know enough about how it might be joined together besides the bolts.
@@stephentoons Ok, thanks a to, I guess I missed the specs. It is probably just the bolts, I can't see any welds showing in the pictures , thanks a ton.
Thats a bit extreme for lasange sheets lol
Would this be able to reduce thickness of a 1mm plaque of aluminium.. lets say 5 by 10 cm up to 0.5 ?
I only have experience with silver, gold, brass, copper in rolling mills, so I'm not sure what happens with alluminum
Hi me again buddy
So I’ve had the mill a while now and I’m totally stuck
I can’t get lower then the 2mm track on the roller
I need to make 1.5mm wire but when I come off the 2mm track on to the 1.5mm it’s to wide so messes it up leaves flat tracks on the wire
My technique I start with a gold Ingot same size as 7mm track and keep working and tightening making my way to the last setting on 7mm
Then repeat on the next track
Which I anneal every 4-5 presses working my way down in tightness on each track
Goes great until I get to the tightest on 2mm track
Then look how wide it is which is definitely to wide for the 1.5mm track I think reason it’s mashed up
How can I get around this please
be sure that on each pass you rotate the wire 90 degrees for the next pass, you're probably already doing that but just in case... When you get to the tightest 2mm pass, and then a second pass with the wire rotated 90 degrees, does the wire measure about 2mm? Next, when you go for the 1.5mm track, go very slowly , you put the wire in, tighten it down so it catches, back it out, then tighten it down a small amount more, make the pass, rotate the wire, make the pass again and repeat... If you go too fast you will get the effect you are seeing, I'm hoping if you go slower and be sure to make a pass, rotate, do the pass again, tighten slightly and repeat that it will work a lot better. Also last time it sounded like you were wanting round wire, it's also possible to use the mill to get down to 2mm as you're not having a problem with that, then switch to a round draw plate to round it and bring it down to the desired diameter.
@@stephentoons thanks for that I will try doing what you say
And yes the draw plate I
Have tried but it kept snapping
It’s 24k gold so very soft
I am going to leave the gold for now and practice with silver
I just thought I was doing it all wrong but from the videos I watched they don’t show the whole process… starting at 7mm and tightening all the way on the track
Then moving to the next size down and repeat
So I thought maybe then do a few presses in each track and work down ?
And yes correct
When I finish on the 2nm track it’s 2mm wide so to big for the 1.5mm track
Then flanges when I do press in that track
Completely ruins it
Can you make wire for jump rings with this
Because I noticed the mills are half round flat or square
you are right. so when I made jump rings with it, I rolled down square wire and had a square cross section for the rings.
@@stephentoons yea that’s what I thought thanks I just bought and it and notice
I think I’ll buy a draw plate tho and pull threw that
With 24k gold it should do the trick
@@Elites-asthetic thats my plan if i ever need round wire is just use a draw plate
Was thinking to buy this but...On their website in the description it says that with this mill you can make square, round and halfround wire but in the picture i can´t see any roller with round groove. Can you tell if it is possible to make round wire with this? Thank you for possible answer. Good video btw.
For round you make square and then pull it through a draw plate into round wire.
@@Daveyboyz1978 Thank you for the tip.
The 4 in 1 has a separate sets of round groves , between between the square and flat . I couldn't find a 4 in 1 in the vevor, but I did with the ctismice 4 in 1 rolling mill on amazon.
Having using it many times i can confirm, it has grooves to make round wire. And i have been very happy with this mill. I can recommend this mill for those who does not spend so
much on a mill.
I wonder if replacing the handle with a flywheel might be practical...
yes
You've had this rolling mill for a year. Is it still working good?
i havent used it as much as i expected as my focus shifted from jewelry making to electronic design
price
£126 on their uk site going to around £200 for other models...
Get a mechanical caliper please and throw out that digital
no way
Did that dent or knick your rollers? It looks like it damaged your rollers in the video if you look carefully. I’d really like to know because I am trying to get a rolling mill but don’t want to get the vevor if the rollers get damaged that easily. Thank you for your time.
there’s no damage to the rollers, maybe your seeing an unevenness in the oil coating the rollers
@@stephentoons thank you for the fast reply! I am trying to find the Rockwell hardness (HRC) if these rollers. It says it’s 40 chrome steel, but I can’t find the hardness of that. Would you happen to know what the Rockwell hardness (HRC) of your rollers are?
@@austinwallace118 no sorry. All I can say is I've run silver, brass and copper through it without harm to the rollers.
@@stephentoons thank you. How long have you had your mill and how often do you use it? Have you ever cranked it down a little too much to see if it will withstand the little bit more of pressure?
@@austinwallace118 I've had it since around when I posted this video. I don't use it frequently. When you use a rolling mill, you don't crank it down too much. The idea is to make several passes with small changes to the spacing between the rollers otherwise you'll mess up your material. For instance if you crank it down too much at once you might crack the piece you are rolling, or cause it to curve, or wrap around the roller. Since I'm using soft metals (Compared to hardened steel), I don't think at all about possible damage to the rollers. I would not run hard metals like steel through this mill.