That makes a lot of sense as I've bought 3 refractometers over the years and I could never get a good reading that matched my physical hydrometers so I just figured unless I spent a ton of money they must all be junk. Two tricks to help with reading the physical hydrometer is to fill it to the very top (as this will help your ability to see it directly without looking through the glass) plus if you have foam at the top you can dab it with a clean paper towel and instantly all the foam will magically disappear. My eyesight sucks due to age and anything to make things easier to read, plus I use my iPhone camera with a massive zoom to make things even easier to read if my magnifying glass isn't nearby.
I've been out of brewing for 10yrs and looking to get back in it. I'm seeing a lot of gadgets and systems I hadn't seen before and slowing realizing they're just more toys that aren't really needed. I made good beer back then and think I'll stick with the basics I had. Great video!
When I first started body fender repair, I had to have one of each hammer and 8 dollies, after 48 years I lookback and realized that I only used one hammer and one dolly, and did a damd fine job.
This was really helpful. I could never understand why the reading between my refractometer and Tilt hydrometers were always about 5-6 gravity points different.
Don’t forget you hydrometer is calibrated for a certain temperature fluid. It should say on the bottom. Both of mine are 68°. Your readings will be off if you temperature is off, but there is a calculator on BrewersFriend for that conversion.
Pretty cool. Here's why you are getting different numbers. The standard glass hydrometer is calibrated for 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) and it does NOT correct for temperature which means it's NOT correct UNLESS the wort, wash and/or mash is EXACTLY 68 degrees Fahrenheit or 20 degrees Celsius. Your glass hydrometer came with a chart and tells you at the bottom of how much you need to correct for after you take a temperature reading. The refractometer AUTOMATICALLY corrects for temperatures and does this calculation for you. So it's far more accurate than the glass hydrometer is. The best advice that someone gave me was to invest in a digital thermometer and if I could not find the chart that came with my glass hydrometer, get another one and save the chart so I could do the conversion myself. Here's ABV calculation forumula: OG-FG = Answer * 131.25 = ABV %.
Seems like you could get a bunch of data points quickly by making a big gravity DME sample - take some measurments - cut the sample with some water - take more measurements - repeat all the way down to the low end of what you brew (gravity wise). I too was ignorant of this - btw. Thanks for pointing it out.
I have used the regular floating triple scale hydrometer for over 20 years now. Recently jumped in and got a digital refractometer, which requires calibration at each use with distilled water to ensure a 0 brix reading. The refractometer only gives me brix readings, using a converter online I get a gravity reading. It took probably about 10-15 brews before I learned to trust the digital refractometer. It matches my hydrometer, and has consistently done so. If there's a discrepency, I need to double check my samples for any thicker opaque particles and break them up some and take a new reading. The digital refractometer has an automatic temperature adjustment as well, so while it wont match the reading exactly, it matches the temp adjusted reading.
Good deal! Let me know what you find out I'd be curious to see what your readings are off by. I think I may buy a little more expensive refractometer and see if it's closer to accurate. 👍🍻
Aha proof of why I dislike my refractometer! I bought brewing america hydrometers a little while back and love those. The mash calibrated one is awesome as well for hot samples.
Funny, my wife got me a refractometer and I took side by side reading with my hydrometer and they were way off. I thought it was junk and never used it. Now maybe it’s time to give it a second look. Thanks for the information!
Great information, thanks. You didn't mention that refractometers can't account for alcohol once fermentation starts. Refractometers can't be used to check fermentation progress or FG.
Nice video, Brian. Very entertaining. I like how you pulled your friend into it, not once, but twice. 😁 Cleverly done. So, my refractometer has 2 sides, one Brix and the other says Wort SG. Using this correction method, let’s just use the default that Brewfather has listed (1.004), the calculated SG value is several points lower than what’s measured. I’d hope they’d be closer. I see pics of other refractometers and their SG side appears to be slid “up” a little to better compensate for this correction factor. Not sure if there are any thoughts out there on the misleading “Wort SG” other than it “it’s all lies - I tell ya!”
Thank you Brian for posting this video. I have now performed several measurements at different brews and found a correction figure at 0.0001 which I find pretty good. So I'll keep trusting my ATC refractometer. All the best Stefan
Mine is accurate too, seems mine is designed for beer rather than juice or maybe its because I use daylight. By the way, ATC stands for Automatic Temperature Compensation.
Thanks, I will do comparison with my hydrometer now , I thought that the Refractometer was too easy …bummer. Obviously I’ve always used the hydro for final reading as I don’t like math so now I’ll use it for both. I live in New Zealand in the sticks and all the locals have this misconception about Home Brew so I never get to talk to like minded people…..thank goodness for people like you on the Tube.
Very nice Brian, I never believed the refractometer for this very reason. I finally got the brewing America mash hydrometer, and just use that with temp correction. I am no longer chasing false refractometer readings. I alway just figured it was because I was buying a cheap one, like 20 bucks, so I just figured it is what it is. However this is a great way to keep using it in a pinch. Nicely done sir.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers this might be the way I go forward in my mash. I think the mash hydrometer with the temp correction would be easier and maybe more accurate that a refractometer and doing those calculations.
I feel the pain, i learned this a few weeks back too and was frustrating to know all previous reading were wrong. I learned some stuff on the process that you should verify: 1) The brix and OG number on the refractometer are not the same. Check the brix (Ex: 15), put it on the calculator to check de OG (1.59), then check the Refractometer again (look at the OG side,) and you will see that is not the same value (1.062). Dont trust the OG side on the refractometer. 2) I did partially what you did, made 3 mini wort with LME, but i took 10 samples each to complete the 30. You will be surprised that the refractometer gave different readings a couple of times using the same wort. I felt that this way it gave me a more accurate number.
I always use the average one (after reading a byo article), it should be 1.04. so you take the brix reading divide it by 1,04 and convert the result to sg.
Also, when using refractometers: the wort itself has to be at roughly room temperature. The ATC stickers on cheap China refractometers don't mean, that they will compensate for hot wort. It rather means they can cope with slight changes in room temperature.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers but what should be the correct temp of the sample for a good an accurate read? not possible to measure drops , also is the refracto reading wrong because you are not taking the temp into account specially if all samples will have varying temps?
We use this for cnc coolant measures for our machines, we correct our refracto meter first with water, in america you can have hard water or soft water. Either way its to calibrate your refractometer to 0, then you need to know the scale factor of the substance you measure and calculate accordingly. Coolant for cnc for example wants us to use between 5-8 on brix.
Great information and video. Never realized that there would be such a big difference in readings. Now I'm going to have to calibrate my setup of tools. Cheers!
Just came across this video and found it very interesting. My questions are, before you started your measurements, did you zero your refractometer, and at what temperature?
I just watched this. Thank you. One thing, I was told to never use the SG measurement on the refractometer to always convert to SG from Brix. I don't know why really but was always told it will be off if you use the SG on it.
Thanks for the video. I’ve got my refractometer nicely calibrated (correction is 1.05). Can we talk about the right way to take a sample from boiling hot wort? It seems I can get wildly different BRIX numbers from the same hot wort and I think it’s related to evaporation. Here’s what I do make sure the wort is actually boiling, stir it up really well, drip from my paddle a few drops on to the refractometer glass, close the lid and read. If I wait even a few seconds or more to close the lid I get wildly different readings, usually way too high. If I come back to the same reading after a few minutes later (and it’s had time to cool) it changes again. So I’m alll over the place!! One thing I have tried is taking the sample with a glass syringe, letting it cool in the glass syringe and hoping it doesn’t evaporate/concentrate, and then taking a reading. However the sample is still usually quite hot and I think evaporation is still at play here. What are the best practices? How do you take a sample for the refractometer and cool it down without changing the concentration due to evaporation? I could use some guidance on how to get consistent readings. Of course I’m still very much dependent on getting a hydrometer reading at the end of the brew day which I depend on, but it’s really nice to have a pre-boil reading so that I can make adjustments during the brew day.
take say 1 ml of hot wort, put it in a cold container, swirl it round, it will be room temp in a few seconds, then take the refractometer reading - and make sure the refractometer is already at room temperature.
I do agree with your double. I figured you already knew it. Larry did a video on it about a month or so ago. Not be to facetious but you should should learn more from Larry. 😆 plus it’s always ask in the brewing software for the calibration.
I do recall watching Larry's video but I don't remember anything about the refractometer I thought I remember it being about testing to see if your hydrometer was calibrated? I need to go back and have another watch now. And I definitely should have known this sooner you're right about that!! Lol
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers 🤔 now you got me thinking. Thought he had hit on the fact that a refractometer could be off if your not using it right. I do watch a lot of videos on brewing so I do apologize if I’m wrong.
Would it work If I take the numbers that the hydrometer gave me and manually in the refractometer with the same sample calibrate it to what the hydrometer gave me. Then you will be very close one from the other in future readings.
Will the spreadsheet adjust for the other way as well? The last beer I brewed the H-reading was higher than the R-reading on both the preboil and the starting gravity. Great info! I had been using my refractometer for the last two years for all the readings before fermentation and my hydrometer for only the final gravity.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the help in this. It's the only we get better at our craft weather it be hobby or trying to go professional. I will be tracking this from now on. Probably every brew. Prost!
I've checked my refractometer (SG scale) against my hydrometer using a pure sugar solution and found the results to be very close. Measurements of wort differ slightly but are still fairly close. My wort correction factor comes out at 1.03. What is critical however is zeroing the refractometer with pure water ( adjust to read 1.000) before taking the wort reading. My refractometer measurements can change significantly throughout a day and therefore my habit is now to check with pure water before taking my wort readings.
I've known about this for a while, but figured a refractometer is probably "good enough". Ya, no. It's way off. Thank you for convincing me to finally start taking readings to get a correction!
So I decided to finally get around to calibrating my refractometer today and ran into a most interesting situation. I always thought my refractometer was close but it isn't just close, it is spot on. From 1.000 to 1.080 it isn't even worth correcting. I thought this can't be right so I needed to verify. I went and made up a bunch of sugar wash samples and sure enough, those readings are way out of sync with my hydrometer and would need a correction factor of 1.04 or so. I don't know if I am just super lucky and got one way out of whack in my favor, or are the manufacturers now calibrating with malt?
The only thing that will change the calibration a little bit is darker beers can throw off the reading slightly because it's measured by light passing through but there is a good chance that you just got a really good refractometer nothing wrong with that!! 👍🍻
I calibrated mine, then tested it with a bottled and bond and it was 101 proof. Good enough, we all have enough stress nowadays to worry about anything other than taste.
hope you're well, thank you for this video. Am I right in assuming your refractometer was out by 1.1872 gravity points or am I misinterpreting you figures after calibration? I may be a terrible brewer, but that variation seems more than tolerable and acceptable variance given all of the other fluctuating variables in this scenario. Cheers for your efforts, hope to hear back from you!
I only use refractometer for readings prior to OG. Like pre boil and post boil. Just to get a quick idea of what is going on, but nothing that is critical. OG onward is hydrometer only. Easier to read, more accurate
Dang. Now I have to go back through all my brewfather batch data and correct the gravity to actual because my efficiency has been calculated off of years of bad gravity readings. Can't believe this slipped by me for so long but the beer was always really good so there's that.
I was just comparing my R and H readings earlier today before kegging. One was a little over 6% and the other a Little under 6% so I'm calling it a 6% beer!
Prob a dumb question.... im new with using refractometers.... So just wondering is it possible to calibrate it off by the difference amount? To get the correct reading?
You should use the spreadsheet with multiple varying gravity readings to determine the avg difference amount. To be as accurate as possible..if you just want to be close you could do as you say..👍🍻
The misreading is proportional. You will have the same error for OG and FG readings. Means it has no influence to the abv calculation. That's why I just always use the refractometer.
so you are saying refractos have an inherent fault factor ,is this by design and out off calibration or just the nature of the beast? sometimes hydrometers can also be out of calibration ,mine reads 1.004 when placed in distilled water @60degf so i always have to subtract this from the reading and of course take into account the temperature and adjust for that as well
Excellent information thank you. In my humble opinion your background is too dark. Perhaps you will consider adding some color lights on the back to make the videos more pleasant to watch.
Interesting, however you have overlooked another factor that also effects refractometer readings, and that is the colour of the sample. Refractometers work by refraction of light through the sample, so obviously if the sample is dark coloured the results will be further effected. This is borne out by your own numbers the higher the gravity the darker the colour and the bigger the correction factor. Refractometer correction is not simply a factor of gravity alone. Also temperature is not much of a problem in refractometers as the sample size is miniscule unlike hydrometers which are very strongly effected by temperature
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yes but the sample is so small that it cools right away when taking the reading ,so technically it may still need to be cooled for a proper reading and that happens but the point is we did not need to wait for it to cool down due to the nature of the device
I notice that you were using both Brewers Friend, and Brew Father software. There's also Beer Smith, and I am sure others. Do you find one better than the other or do you use different software depending on what you are trying to achieve?
Hallo and congratulations for the work done in all tutorials. Returning to the subject, my refractometer does not have such a large error. it's tiny and I don't notice it. But it cost over $ 50. Is that the explanation?
I've always calibrated my refractometer to distilled water as I DO notice changes over time. I'm assuming this process would need to be repeated if any sort of calibration is done?
well dang, I figured mine was off slightly based on readings vs the hydrometer ..... first couple times I didn't even know the temperature affected it!
I noticed that your third sample with the highest amount of DME showed a lower gravity reading than the second sample. How can that be? Also, since you added to the same amount of liquid sugars in the ratio of 3 : 3.5 : 4, wouldn't you expect the gravity readings to show the same ratio in the three samples?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you for the quick reply, and this makes sense now. Based on your 1.040 H reading for the sample with 3 tsp of DME, one would expect a reading of 1.046 for the sample wit 3.5 tsp, and 1.053 for the same with 4 tsp DME, which is close to your readings. By the way, I never just take one single reading, but an average over three readings, especially for the refractometer, where I found that readings can vary quite a bit.
I've got a cheapo refractometer too and I'm surprised how often the zero setting drifts with the same distilled water. Maybe they're just not for me ha
But I mainly use the refractometer during the mash to check and see if all has been converted. Once I don't see a change in readings I assume I'm done mashing
@@Rubio_Eric sure that's not a bad thing to use it for at all. Especially if you sparge. Because that reading has no real use other than what you are saying.
Why not correct the temp of the hydrometer and then take a reading. My hydrometer and my refractometer come out the same when I correct the temp of the sample.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers In your video mate, you mentioned the top readings on each test except the big one, where you mentioned 1.058 instead of 1.068....unless I am wrong....lol, I've had a beer.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks for the video mate, I am going to do the test next brew day and make sure I record the results. I think mine will be closure as my refractometer and hydrometer are quite close but worth doing the exercise. Also, love the new character - he seems ballsy but kinda my sort of beer buddy !!!!
You know you can calibrate them, right? Like they might be off out of the box, but you should be able to adjust them to be accurate? Otherwise, why don't they just modify the scale to be correct in the first instance?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yes. Though how do you know your hydrometer is correct to use as the arbiter for other calibration points? I've used three simultaneously that all read different in the same liquid. You may need a scale accurate to 1g over 1kg and a 1L measure which you can confirm with 1kg of water in order to verify the hydrometer. Along with a 1kg calibrated mass to check your scale. Luckily we do have options that avoid traceability back to the national physics laboratory. Adjust your post fermentation refractometer reading for ethanol and you'll be as close as matters for home brew.
I'm pretty sure the entire video is about how a hydrometer is accurate and a refractometer has to have the "wort correction factor" to give you an accurate reading.
I like Brian's videos, but this one is a bit sloppy. He reads OG, then realized he should of read brix. Instead of going back and rereading in brix, he converts OG to brix. Not optimum. Did he temp correct his hydrometer OG? Is his hydrometer calibrated to 72 (or 74 deg)? The three samples, the refractomer was 0. 009 - 0.010. It would be interesting to see how far off reading would be with a very low OG and a very high OG.
I do wish I was perfect but unfortunately I'm human. When I realized my mistake it was when I filmed the computer part (the next day) and I had dumped all the samples..I suppose I could have faked it but I wanted to show the conversion tool anyway. One other point to note is the spreadsheet has an entry for the sample temp so it will make the temp correction for a calibration of 60f. I do appreciate you watching my videos and appreciate the feedback. I always strive to do better. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yeah Brian, not a big deal. Exposing the idea and outlining the process is more important than the absolute values used. I guess my orientation as a test engineer started up the Ivory tower.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ok, in any case i was interested in a refracto but i hear they can be tricky to calculate after a fashion depending on the situation so ill stick to my hydro
Haha, love this new character!! "You go ahead and do your little tutorial", classic!! NIcely done all round Brian.
Thanks David!! 👍🍻
That makes a lot of sense as I've bought 3 refractometers over the years and I could never get a good reading that matched my physical hydrometers so I just figured unless I spent a ton of money they must all be junk.
Two tricks to help with reading the physical hydrometer is to fill it to the very top (as this will help your ability to see it directly without looking through the glass) plus if you have foam at the top you can dab it with a clean paper towel and instantly all the foam will magically disappear. My eyesight sucks due to age and anything to make things easier to read, plus I use my iPhone camera with a massive zoom to make things even easier to read if my magnifying glass isn't nearby.
Good tips!! 🍻👍
Excellent video. Thank you! Now a subscriber.
I've been out of brewing for 10yrs and looking to get back in it. I'm seeing a lot of gadgets and systems I hadn't seen before and slowing realizing they're just more toys that aren't really needed. I made good beer back then and think I'll stick with the basics I had. Great video!
Nothing wrong with old school! 👍🍻
When I first started body fender repair, I had to have one of each hammer and 8 dollies, after 48 years I lookback and realized that I only used one hammer and one dolly, and did a damd fine job.
Wow as a regular refractometer user I had never heard of this either. Thank you for sharing the info!
No problem Trent! Glad you found it helpful!
This was really helpful. I could never understand why the reading between my refractometer and Tilt hydrometers were always about 5-6 gravity points different.
Glad it was helpful! It was a revelation to me for sure! 👍🍻
do you understand why it reads wrong now? i still dont
Don’t forget you hydrometer is calibrated for a certain temperature fluid. It should say on the bottom. Both of mine are 68°. Your readings will be off if you temperature is off, but there is a calculator on BrewersFriend for that conversion.
I like your pal Bubba. He should make more appearances. 😂
Haha!! Well see if he wants to come back... lol
agreed!
That was Larry the cable guy lol
@@Rubio_Eric lol
Pretty cool. Here's why you are getting different numbers. The standard glass hydrometer is calibrated for 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) and it does NOT correct for temperature which means it's NOT correct UNLESS the wort, wash and/or mash is EXACTLY 68 degrees Fahrenheit or 20 degrees Celsius. Your glass hydrometer came with a chart and tells you at the bottom of how much you need to correct for after you take a temperature reading. The refractometer AUTOMATICALLY corrects for temperatures and does this calculation for you. So it's far more accurate than the glass hydrometer is. The best advice that someone gave me was to invest in a digital thermometer and if I could not find the chart that came with my glass hydrometer, get another one and save the chart so I could do the conversion myself. Here's ABV calculation forumula: OG-FG = Answer * 131.25 = ABV %.
Seems like you could get a bunch of data points quickly by making a big gravity DME sample - take some measurments - cut the sample with some water - take more measurements - repeat all the way down to the low end of what you brew (gravity wise). I too was ignorant of this - btw. Thanks for pointing it out.
Yeah that's a good trick I think!! Don't worry I didn't know either..lol 👍🍻
I have used the regular floating triple scale hydrometer for over 20 years now. Recently jumped in and got a digital refractometer, which requires calibration at each use with distilled water to ensure a 0 brix reading. The refractometer only gives me brix readings, using a converter online I get a gravity reading. It took probably about 10-15 brews before I learned to trust the digital refractometer. It matches my hydrometer, and has consistently done so. If there's a discrepency, I need to double check my samples for any thicker opaque particles and break them up some and take a new reading. The digital refractometer has an automatic temperature adjustment as well, so while it wont match the reading exactly, it matches the temp adjusted reading.
Makes sense. I read the instructions when I got my refractometer and calculated my wort correction factor. Not very difficult.
👍🍻
I always knew my refractometer was a bit off. I will have to measure my next few batches and dial it in. Thanks!
Good deal! Let me know what you find out I'd be curious to see what your readings are off by. I think I may buy a little more expensive refractometer and see if it's closer to accurate. 👍🍻
Aha proof of why I dislike my refractometer! I bought brewing america hydrometers a little while back and love those. The mash calibrated one is awesome as well for hot samples.
Yeah the 155 calibrated hydro is great for mash readings! 👍🍻
Funny, my wife got me a refractometer and I took side by side reading with my hydrometer and they were way off. I thought it was junk and never used it. Now maybe it’s time to give it a second look. Thanks for the information!
No problem!! 👍🍻
Great information, thanks. You didn't mention that refractometers can't account for alcohol once fermentation starts. Refractometers can't be used to check fermentation progress or FG.
You're correct! 👍🍻
I love these technical videos
Thanks man!! 👍🍻
I don't really use my refractometer because I thought it was useless but maybe I should try this and see if it gets better? Thanks for the video!
Give it a shot and let me know what you find out! 👍🍻
Nice video, Brian. Very entertaining. I like how you pulled your friend into it, not once, but twice. 😁 Cleverly done. So, my refractometer has 2 sides, one Brix and the other says Wort SG. Using this correction method, let’s just use the default that Brewfather has listed (1.004), the calculated SG value is several points lower than what’s measured. I’d hope they’d be closer. I see pics of other refractometers and their SG side appears to be slid “up” a little to better compensate for this correction factor. Not sure if there are any thoughts out there on the misleading “Wort SG” other than it “it’s all lies - I tell ya!”
Hhm that's interesting. I also thought what if you adjusted the calibration with distilled water above zero to compensate on the S.G. side. ?
I never trust the SG scale on refractometers. I always measure in Brix first, perform correction, and then convert to SG using a formula.
@@BEERNBBQBYLARRY "This is the way"
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers haha
Good stuff. Thanks for the responses. 🍻
Thank you Brian for posting this video. I have now performed several measurements at different brews and found a correction figure at 0.0001 which I find pretty good. So I'll keep trusting my ATC refractometer. All the best Stefan
Awesome! Sounds like you have a good one!
Which one you have?
Mine is accurate too, seems mine is designed for beer rather than juice or maybe its because I use daylight. By the way, ATC stands for Automatic Temperature Compensation.
Thanks, I will do comparison with my hydrometer now , I thought that the Refractometer was too easy …bummer. Obviously I’ve always used the hydro for final reading as I don’t like math so now I’ll use it for both. I live in New Zealand in the sticks and all the locals have this misconception about Home Brew so I never get to talk to like minded people…..thank goodness for people like you on the Tube.
Your welcome!! Cheers mate! 👍🍻
Very nice Brian, I never believed the refractometer for this very reason. I finally got the brewing America mash hydrometer, and just use that with temp correction. I am no longer chasing false refractometer readings. I alway just figured it was because I was buying a cheap one, like 20 bucks, so I just figured it is what it is. However this is a great way to keep using it in a pinch. Nicely done sir.
Thanks Gary! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers this might be the way I go forward in my mash. I think the mash hydrometer with the temp correction would be easier and maybe more accurate that a refractometer and doing those calculations.
They are very nice!
I feel the pain, i learned this a few weeks back too and was frustrating to know all previous reading were wrong. I learned some stuff on the process that you should verify:
1) The brix and OG number on the refractometer are not the same. Check the brix (Ex: 15), put it on the calculator to check de OG (1.59), then check the Refractometer again (look at the OG side,) and you will see that is not the same value (1.062). Dont trust the OG side on the refractometer.
2) I did partially what you did, made 3 mini wort with LME, but i took 10 samples each to complete the 30. You will be surprised that the refractometer gave different readings a couple of times using the same wort. I felt that this way it gave me a more accurate number.
Yeah I did notice that when I did a test run for the video. I guess it's time for a $300 easy dens...lol
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers we always have to upgrade something, lol.
I always use the average one (after reading a byo article), it should be 1.04. so you take the brix reading divide it by 1,04 and convert the result to sg.
Also, when using refractometers: the wort itself has to be at roughly room temperature. The ATC stickers on cheap China refractometers don't mean, that they will compensate for hot wort. It rather means they can cope with slight changes in room temperature.
Yep!! Good point! 👍🍻
This really isn't that big of a concern. A few drops of wort will very quickly cool down on the refractometer glass enough to take a reading.
@@JmJed yep I will also drop the pipette into a glass of ice water to chill before taking a reading.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers but what should be the correct temp of the sample for a good an accurate read? not possible to measure drops , also is the refracto reading wrong because you are not taking the temp into account specially if all samples will have varying temps?
Thanks Brian, my % has been out for 3 years. Great video!
Yeah same here man!!
We use this for cnc coolant measures for our machines, we correct our refracto meter first with water, in america you can have hard water or soft water. Either way its to calibrate your refractometer to 0, then you need to know the scale factor of the substance you measure and calculate accordingly. Coolant for cnc for example wants us to use between 5-8 on brix.
Great information and video. Never realized that there would be such a big difference in readings. Now I'm going to have to calibrate my setup of tools. Cheers!
Yeah me either!! That's why I had to share it! 👍🍻
It seems that the correction factor changes with Original Gravity. Perhaps one should determine separate factors for typical OG ranges.
Yes I noticed that as well. I tried it with lower gravity and it was farther off!
Just came across this video and found it very interesting. My questions are, before you started your measurements, did you zero your refractometer, and at what temperature?
Yes Distilled water at 70 f
I just watched this. Thank you. One thing, I was told to never use the SG measurement on the refractometer to always convert to SG from Brix. I don't know why really but was always told it will be off if you use the SG on it.
Probably for this very reason.
Thanks for the video. I’ve got my refractometer nicely calibrated (correction is 1.05). Can we talk about the right way to take a sample from boiling hot wort? It seems I can get wildly different BRIX numbers from the same hot wort and I think it’s related to evaporation. Here’s what I do make sure the wort is actually boiling, stir it up really well, drip from my paddle a few drops on to the refractometer glass, close the lid and read. If I wait even a few seconds or more to close the lid I get wildly different readings, usually way too high. If I come back to the same reading after a few minutes later (and it’s had time to cool) it changes again. So I’m alll over the place!! One thing I have tried is taking the sample with a glass syringe, letting it cool in the glass syringe and hoping it doesn’t evaporate/concentrate, and then taking a reading. However the sample is still usually quite hot and I think evaporation is still at play here. What are the best practices? How do you take a sample for the refractometer and cool it down without changing the concentration due to evaporation? I could use some guidance on how to get consistent readings. Of course I’m still very much dependent on getting a hydrometer reading at the end of the brew day which I depend on, but it’s really nice to have a pre-boil reading so that I can make adjustments during the brew day.
take say 1 ml of hot wort, put it in a cold container, swirl it round, it will be room temp in a few seconds, then take the refractometer reading - and make sure the refractometer is already at room temperature.
I do agree with your double. I figured you already knew it. Larry did a video on it about a month or so ago. Not be to facetious but you should should learn more from Larry. 😆 plus it’s always ask in the brewing software for the calibration.
Don’t mean to be a ass.
Not at all.
I do recall watching Larry's video but I don't remember anything about the refractometer I thought I remember it being about testing to see if your hydrometer was calibrated? I need to go back and have another watch now. And I definitely should have known this sooner you're right about that!! Lol
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers 🤔 now you got me thinking. Thought he had hit on the fact that a refractometer could be off if your not using it right. I do watch a lot of videos on brewing so I do apologize if I’m wrong.
@@beerandbbqhobbyist6464 lol I'm watching it now ..I'm not immune to missing something trust me.. lol
Would it work If I take the numbers that the hydrometer gave me and manually in the refractometer with the same sample calibrate it to what the hydrometer gave me. Then you will be very close one from the other in future readings.
OMG!! thank you soooo much!!!! That now explains why the f*** I always had different measurements
Did you calibrate the refractometer before starting the test?
Hi Brain, just wonder if you know about the adjusting screw under the black cap
to calibrate refractometer ? Brett
I’m just going to make beer & trash both of them 😂🥴🍻
Lol right!! Just when you thought it was safe to measure things! Lol
Will the spreadsheet adjust for the other way as well? The last beer I brewed the H-reading was higher than the R-reading on both the preboil and the starting gravity. Great info! I had been using my refractometer for the last two years for all the readings before fermentation and my hydrometer for only the final gravity.
Yes it will..👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks for the help in this. It's the only we get better at our craft weather it be hobby or trying to go professional. I will be tracking this from now on. Probably every brew. Prost!
I've checked my refractometer (SG scale) against my hydrometer using a pure sugar solution and found the results to be very close. Measurements of wort differ slightly but are still fairly close. My wort correction factor comes out at 1.03. What is critical however is zeroing the refractometer with pure water ( adjust to read 1.000) before taking the wort reading. My refractometer measurements can change significantly throughout a day and therefore my habit is now to check with pure water before taking my wort readings.
Sounds like you have a good refractometer. 👍🍻
Great stuff. Hilarious and great to see you in double.
Haha thanks.. it was fun to do
I like your pal Bubba. He should make more appearances. lol
Looks like something another youtuber I follow does ;)
Lol Peter McKinnon?
I've known about this for a while, but figured a refractometer is probably "good enough".
Ya, no. It's way off. Thank you for convincing me to finally start taking readings to get a correction!
Lol I had NO IDEA!! crazy. 👍🍻
Awesome!! I can't believe I didn't know about this. Now to start over with all my efficiencies in Brewfather....
Haha sorry.. I'm back to the drawing board myself! 👍🍻
I don't do any brewing, and was just looking up your instructions on use of the refractometer. What does DME stand for?
Dry Malt Extract.
So I decided to finally get around to calibrating my refractometer today and ran into a most interesting situation. I always thought my refractometer was close but it isn't just close, it is spot on. From 1.000 to 1.080 it isn't even worth correcting. I thought this can't be right so I needed to verify. I went and made up a bunch of sugar wash samples and sure enough, those readings are way out of sync with my hydrometer and would need a correction factor of 1.04 or so. I don't know if I am just super lucky and got one way out of whack in my favor, or are the manufacturers now calibrating with malt?
The only thing that will change the calibration a little bit is darker beers can throw off the reading slightly because it's measured by light passing through but there is a good chance that you just got a really good refractometer nothing wrong with that!! 👍🍻
I'm going to go with luck of the draw on this one and remember not to measure sugar wash with it 😂
I calibrated mine, then tested it with a bottled and bond and it was 101 proof. Good enough, we all have enough stress nowadays to worry about anything other than taste.
To each their own 👍
I was wondering why my my 4.2 abv beers were tanking me like a double ipa. I thought I was just that good! Dammit brian!!!!!!😂😂😂
Lol
Holy cow! I thought this was a Scorsese epic!!!
Haha. Easy.. I Keith Stone hears this he'll be trying to comeback for a cameo!!
Thanks, haven't looked into that it is possible to place a correction factor in Brewfather 👍
Only in the tools.
hope you're well, thank you for this video. Am I right in assuming your refractometer was out by 1.1872 gravity points or am I misinterpreting you figures after calibration? I may be a terrible brewer, but that variation seems more than tolerable and acceptable variance given all of the other fluctuating variables in this scenario. Cheers for your efforts, hope to hear back from you!
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Hi, great vid. Quick question: what is the collar on the hydrometer jar used for? Mine has one but I don't know what to do with it! Cheers.
So you know how far to fill the flask for readings. 👍🍻
Just think of how many bad reviews there are on Amazon regarding this cheap refractometers, I know it stopped me from buying one. Thanks Brian.
Lol yep
I only use refractometer for readings prior to OG. Like pre boil and post boil. Just to get a quick idea of what is going on, but nothing that is critical. OG onward is hydrometer only. Easier to read, more accurate
Pretty much the same for me
Any big benefits to using a digital refractometer vs the type your using in the video?
Maybe more accurate? Never used a digital refractometer before..I would still check the calibration though. 👍🍻
Dang. Now I have to go back through all my brewfather batch data and correct the gravity to actual because my efficiency has been calculated off of years of bad gravity readings. Can't believe this slipped by me for so long but the beer was always really good so there's that.
Do not feel bad! I had to share this when I learned.. a weeke ago!! Lol 👍🍻
I only hit the like button because the guy in the "dark side of the moon" t-shirt told me.
Haha
Is the wort correction factor needed just on brix/gravity scale or is also required on Plato scale refractometers?
I honestly don't know.
Thanks. I have 3 refracto for measure various parametr and all have large error. May due t cheap price.
Could be a possibility. 👍🍻
I was just comparing my R and H readings earlier today before kegging. One was a little over 6% and the other a Little under 6% so I'm calling it a 6% beer!
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Great video though mate - thanks !!!
Thanks!
Awesome information. Thank you.
Thanks!
Prob a dumb question.... im new with using refractometers.... So just wondering is it possible to calibrate it off by the difference amount? To get the correct reading?
You should use the spreadsheet with multiple varying gravity readings to determine the avg difference amount. To be as accurate as possible..if you just want to be close you could do as you say..👍🍻
LOL great stuff - and you are definitely having fun with the editing! ;)
Yeah gotta keep things fresh!! Lol 👍🍻
The misreading is proportional. You will have the same error for OG and FG readings. Means it has no influence to the abv calculation. That's why I just always use the refractometer.
so you are saying refractos have an inherent fault factor ,is this by design and out off calibration or just the nature of the beast? sometimes hydrometers can also be out of calibration ,mine reads 1.004 when placed in distilled water @60degf so i always have to subtract this from the reading and of course take into account the temperature and adjust for that as well
Nature of the device and the quality of the build.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ty
Excellent information thank you.
In my humble opinion your background is too dark. Perhaps you will consider adding some color lights on the back to make the videos more pleasant to watch.
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Interesting, however you have overlooked another factor that also effects refractometer readings, and that is the colour of the sample. Refractometers work by refraction of light through the sample, so obviously if the sample is dark coloured the results will be further effected. This is borne out by your own numbers the higher the gravity the darker the colour and the bigger the correction factor. Refractometer correction is not simply a factor of gravity alone. Also temperature is not much of a problem in refractometers as the sample size is miniscule unlike hydrometers which are very strongly effected by temperature
Good stuff! Thanks for the info!
is it true that one benefit of using a refractometer is that your sample temp does not matter unlike a hydrometer?
Not exactly. It does need to be cooled. Even the "auto temperature calculating" models have a suggest range.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers yes but the sample is so small that it cools right away when taking the reading ,so technically it may still need to be cooled for a proper reading and that happens but the point is we did not need to wait for it to cool down due to the nature of the device
Brian, news to me! Thanks for this info.
Glad to help!!
This was very interesting, thank you.
Yes I learned something for sure! 👍🍻
I knew there was a conversion factor after it started fermenting. But your saying its off even before the yeast is added?
Yeah it appears that way from my testing and research..
Have you calibrated refractometer (with de_ion water and adjusted scale to zero) before use???
Yes multiple times it is a proven fact they are not accurate.
Thanks for info, looks like I've got the same model. Calibrated it and opened a Dew Tullmore irish whisky 40% and tested. Refractometer showed 40% 🥃
I notice that you were using both Brewers Friend, and Brew Father software. There's also Beer Smith, and I am sure others. Do you find one better than the other or do you use different software depending on what you are trying to achieve?
I prefer brewfather. But the Brewers friend website had the calculations that I needed for the video.
Good video Brian , I have a question , do you know if you have to do the same with the electronic refractometers ? Thanks and cheers 🍻🍻🤙🏼
I am not 100% sure on that but I would certainly check and see. Like I said trust but verify
Great cameo appearance!
Haha Thanks!! He is a cranky son of a gun! 👍🍻
Hallo and congratulations for the work done in all tutorials.
Returning to the subject, my refractometer does not have such a large error. it's tiny and I don't notice it. But it cost over $ 50. Is that the explanation?
It is possible. I'm sure it's better quality. And that perfectly fine. What brand is it?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers , my refractometer is BROUWLAND, made in Belgium.
Ok Thanks.
I've always calibrated my refractometer to distilled water as I DO notice changes over time. I'm assuming this process would need to be repeated if any sort of calibration is done?
Maybe not, as long as the testing is done with a calibrated refractometer. 👍🍻
Presumably you also zeroed the refractometer with distilled water first? You only mentioned calibrating the hydrometer as far as I heard.
I meant refractometer.. I notice that after uploading. Ugh..but yes I did.
well dang, I figured mine was off slightly based on readings vs the hydrometer ..... first couple times I didn't even know the temperature affected it!
Yeah most are calibrated to 60f
I noticed that your third sample with the highest amount of DME showed a lower gravity reading than the second sample. How can that be?
Also, since you added to the same amount of liquid sugars in the ratio of 3 : 3.5 : 4, wouldn't you expect the gravity readings to show the same ratio in the three samples?
They were not in order. The middle one was the highest DME. 🍻👍
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you for the quick reply, and this makes sense now. Based on your 1.040 H reading for the sample with 3 tsp of DME, one would expect a reading of 1.046 for the sample wit 3.5 tsp, and 1.053 for the same with 4 tsp DME, which is close to your readings.
By the way, I never just take one single reading, but an average over three readings, especially for the refractometer, where I found that readings can vary quite a bit.
Yeah I'm learning the same thing! 👍🍻
I had no idea. Thanks braj
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Nice one mate. Thankyou.
Welcome! 👍🍻
I never use a refrac for gravity once I put the yeast in the wort. I use a hydrometer or Tilt.
Yeah me neither this video has noth to do with that.
I've got a cheapo refractometer too and I'm surprised how often the zero setting drifts with the same distilled water. Maybe they're just not for me ha
Haha maybe! 👍🍻
The shout out of your video/channel in the new KegLand video is cool.
Oh cool!! I'll have to check it out!
I've been told refractometers are good for before you pitch and hydrometers are for after pitch
Well I thought that too. But not the case I found out! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers gotta rewatch the video now and pay more attention. I was drinking the 1st time lol
👍🍻
But I mainly use the refractometer during the mash to check and see if all has been converted. Once I don't see a change in readings I assume I'm done mashing
@@Rubio_Eric sure that's not a bad thing to use it for at all. Especially if you sparge. Because that reading has no real use other than what you are saying.
Why not correct the temp of the hydrometer and then take a reading. My hydrometer and my refractometer come out the same when I correct the temp of the sample.
Well the spreadsheet (in my situation) says different because it compensates for temp.
I thought that was Larry the Cable Guy lol
Haha.. my buddy Keith Stone
I could get a reading from a scotch whisky immediately. But yet I couldn't get any from a rice wine. I don't know whats going on... ☹️☹️
I use refractometer for og. Gravity for fg. Drink the tube after checking fg. Its a 2 fer Problem solved.
Was you high reading not 1.068 in the spreadsheet and not 1.058 mate?
There was a conversion back to brix. Is that what you mean?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers In your video mate, you mentioned the top readings on each test except the big one, where you mentioned 1.058 instead of 1.068....unless I am wrong....lol, I've had a beer.
Haha I thought I mentioned both.. it was a quick cut on it.. no worries enjoy your beer! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks for the video mate, I am going to do the test next brew day and make sure I record the results. I think mine will be closure as my refractometer and hydrometer are quite close but worth doing the exercise. Also, love the new character - he seems ballsy but kinda my sort of beer buddy !!!!
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks - just making sure I understood. Again, thanks mate.
You know you can calibrate them, right? Like they might be off out of the box, but you should be able to adjust them to be accurate? Otherwise, why don't they just modify the scale to be correct in the first instance?
Yeah good question..I assume you are "calibrating" by adjusting the zero point with distilled water?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yes. Though how do you know your hydrometer is correct to use as the arbiter for other calibration points? I've used three simultaneously that all read different in the same liquid.
You may need a scale accurate to 1g over 1kg and a 1L measure which you can confirm with 1kg of water in order to verify the hydrometer. Along with a 1kg calibrated mass to check your scale.
Luckily we do have options that avoid traceability back to the national physics laboratory.
Adjust your post fermentation refractometer reading for ethanol and you'll be as close as matters for home brew.
@@Leo99929 yep!
I just bought a refractometer especially made for wort
Gracia por el video.
you have to use daylight to read a refractometer
Uh no... moonlight is fine.
if that light is cool white it could be causing the problem, perhaps try with a warm white light bulb.
But you didn't explain what a wort correction factor is and why it's needed..?
I'm pretty sure the entire video is about how a hydrometer is accurate and a refractometer has to have the "wort correction factor" to give you an accurate reading.
I like Brian's videos, but this one is a bit sloppy. He reads OG, then realized he should of read brix. Instead of going back and rereading in brix, he converts OG to brix. Not optimum. Did he temp correct his hydrometer OG? Is his hydrometer calibrated to 72 (or 74 deg)?
The three samples, the refractomer was 0. 009 - 0.010. It would be interesting to see how far off reading would be with a very low OG and a very high OG.
I do wish I was perfect but unfortunately I'm human. When I realized my mistake it was when I filmed the computer part (the next day) and I had dumped all the samples..I suppose I could have faked it but I wanted to show the conversion tool anyway. One other point to note is the spreadsheet has an entry for the sample temp so it will make the temp correction for a calibration of 60f. I do appreciate you watching my videos and appreciate the feedback. I always strive to do better. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Yeah Brian, not a big deal. Exposing the idea and outlining the process is more important than the absolute values used. I guess my orientation as a test engineer started up the Ivory tower.
@@tomharman490 it's all good man!! Appreciate the conversation! 👍🍻
It's crazy how much yours is off. My refractometer is only off by 1 or 2 points.
Yeah I'm not super surprised.. it was a cheapo...lol 👍🍻
th correction factor dont seem to be accurate, you got it giving you 1.041 but the hydro read was 1.040
It's hard to get the camera to see what I do in person.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ok, in any case i was interested in a refracto but i hear they can be tricky to calculate after a fashion depending on the situation so ill stick to my hydro
@@ARCSTREAMS lots of choices. Everyone can choose what they want to use.