i found a 237 on the side of the road , out for trash , i rescued it got it home new needle and oil and it was running perfect , great little machine , sold it for 50 bucks and the lady was happy and it didnt get scrapped , always feels good to save these solid machines
Hey Bob! I am working on one of these this weekend for a friend, it's the exact same model and color. It's in pretty good shape, thankfully...no stink! Anyway, this helped me get a better idea of what I want to do to it so thanks!
I have one of these. Great machine. Will probably outlast me and handles anything I put under the needle. I love the satin stitch on this machine. I use it a lot for bartacs.
What size is the firm felt for the oil wick on the connecting rod? Thanks for all the videos! I enjoy every one. 😊. I just got a Kenmore machine freed up for a friend. It really only took penetrating oil and time. New bobbin tire, then oil, then grease in the gears. Cleaned it up and it goes back to her today. Happy!
I own this machine since new in sept 1969. Bought locally at singer store for 99.00. Only thing I need is the thread guide to the top left got broke, (above the tension dial). And threading is a royal pain w/o it. Do you happen to have spare? It’s chrome tiny piece. Thank you I’ve learned so much from your tutorials.
Bob, I need help! Trying to fix a 237 singer for a young mom. The presser foot dial on top left was so tight I pried it off as my fingers became raw trying to change the pressure. Now it won't set back on without popping off. I wanted to give this great machine to her. Please help me.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I found the part on ebay. I broke it apart when trying to adjust. When it arrives, I think I can manage but wanted to thank you so much for doing these videos. It means a lot for folks out here DIY s . Keep em coming. My next project is an Atlas machine. I picked up both for 50. I think with a little elbow grease and time they'll both be running great!
I wish TH-cam would allow us to put pictures in comments... There is a connecting rod that drives the oscillating shaft on the bottom of the machine. The connecting rod is two piece and is driven by the main shaft. The rod is constructed much like a connecting rod in an internal combustion engine, with a small end and a big end - the big end being split so that half is part of the rod, and the other half forms a cap that encloses a journal on the main shaft that is offset from the center line and provides the necessary throw. The two pieces are secured together with screws. At the apex of the cap, there is a large hole bored partially into the cap, and a smaller hole inside the big hole that goes the rest of the way through. The large hole provides a place where wick material - typically firm felt - is placed and is subsequently soaked in sewing machine oil. It is a necessary maintenance procedure to occasionally add more oil to the felt wick as it provides lubrication to the big end of the connecting rod via the small hole that goes through the cap to the main shaft journal. Felt cord of the correct diameter is readily available from industrial suppliers such as McMaster-Carr. Difficulty of installation depends upon the specific machine model, some are simple to access, some require the removal of the connecting rod cap at minimum. I hope that helps...
It tested your mettle a bit - just like a kid tests the "boundaries" - and after you left it for a while to reflect on its behaviour it quickly figured out who was boss after all and decided that "Yes, actually - I would like my pudding - and I don't really like being left by myself with nobody to play with. So I'll reluctantly eat these horrid vegetables. Since you insist!"
The short answer is, "it depends". The long answer is there are three basic era's of the 99, the early models with a screw type stitch length regulator and the smaller diameter needle bar (about .187"), the later version with screw type regulator and a larger diameter needle bar (.250"), and the models with the lever type stitch length regulator. Parts interchangeability between US and UK made machines should be 100%, assuming you are working with models of the same era. There is some interchangeability between eras, but that's another story...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop The 99 is a 1928 year model. The 99k is 1954. I changed out the face plate, thread spindle and the balance wheel. Bought the 99 at an estate sale it is in a bentwood box.
@@lindacarlotti333 OK, the question of the hour... What other parts are you looking to interchange? The 99K of that year (should) have a lever type stitch length regulator, but if it doesn't, just about all parts should be interchangable.
Just today I simply removed the motor and the belt and the handrail and when I put everything back I can’t get the main part on top to do its thing and move the needle bar up and down. Any idea what I did wrong
I wonder if someone used kerosene to clean & oil (or protect) it. I have a Slant-o-Matic that the bobbin clutch won't move. Not that the needle going is the worst thing when winding a bobbin, but it's annoying
Try taking the balance wheel off and cleaning the inside of the shaft with a piece of Scotch-Brite pad, likewise the surface it rides on, then oil it lightly.
Does it smell like acetone, could someone used it to try & clean the old oil within the machine.. no idea who you are going to get that smell out beside airing it or put a container with carb soda.. I did this to a singer 99K that has the two tone blue trapeze wood case & lavender oil on a cotton ball in open jar & closed the case with machine still in there , as machine had a very strong mould smell regardless how much I cleaned the machine up with sewing oil & it’s slowly losing that mouldy smell.. & I do refresh the bi carb soda & lavender oil cotton ball in the jar ..
i found a 237 on the side of the road , out for trash , i rescued it got it home new needle and oil and it was running perfect , great little machine , sold it for 50 bucks and the lady was happy and it didnt get scrapped , always feels good to save these solid machines
That's cool! I've lost track of how many machines I've "rescued" from the trash...
237 is the perfect nexus of old vs new, to me. Old school guts that will last forever, zigzag, lcr, it treadles nicely, if you wish. I love them.
Hey Bob! I am working on one of these this weekend for a friend, it's the exact same model and color. It's in pretty good shape, thankfully...no stink! Anyway, this helped me get a better idea of what I want to do to it so thanks!
It feels so good , when they move again :) I'll definitely remember your method of isolating the top end from the bottom!
When you have a machine that's jammed up solid, isolating the top and bottom is a short cut to finding the biggest problems!
I have one of these. Great machine. Will probably outlast me and handles anything I put under the needle. I love the satin stitch on this machine. I use it a lot for bartacs.
Great content, step by step procedures, perfect for any frozen machine .
Glad you liked it!
What size is the firm felt for the oil wick on the connecting rod? Thanks for all the videos! I enjoy every one. 😊. I just got a Kenmore machine freed up for a friend. It really only took penetrating oil and time. New bobbin tire, then oil, then grease in the gears. Cleaned it up and it goes back to her today. Happy!
I keep 1/8" and 3/16" firm felt cord on hand. I use the 3/16" on the connecting rod cap.
Thanks!
I did a restomod on my 237. $7 machine from Goodwill, it had a broken ZigZag slide lever. I made a new lever out of a stainless butter knife.
Aero Kroil is the best! I'm forever grateful.
I told ya! 🙂
Nice machine! I have the same one, working very well
I own this machine since new in sept 1969. Bought locally at singer store for 99.00. Only thing I need is the thread guide to the top left got broke, (above the tension dial). And threading is a royal pain w/o it. Do you happen to have spare? It’s chrome tiny piece. Thank you I’ve learned so much from your tutorials.
Sorry, that's a part I don't have. Try The Rusty Dragon on eBay, he might have one. Don't forget the screw and the goofy rectangular nut...
Bob, I need help! Trying to fix a 237 singer for a young mom. The presser foot dial on top left was so tight I pried it off as my fingers became raw trying to change the pressure. Now it won't set back on without popping off. I wanted to give this great machine to her. Please help me.
email me at argosybob@gmail.com
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I found the part on ebay. I broke it apart when trying to adjust. When it arrives, I think I can manage but wanted to thank you so much for doing these videos. It means a lot for folks out here DIY s . Keep em coming. My next project is an Atlas machine. I picked up both for 50. I think with a little elbow grease and time they'll both be running great!
I use a really long flat head screw driver to remove those large flat screws you get way more leverage without impaling your hand.
Did you say oil wick? Can you explain that part? Is it easily replaced and easy to find?
I wish TH-cam would allow us to put pictures in comments... There is a connecting rod that drives the oscillating shaft on the bottom of the machine. The connecting rod is two piece and is driven by the main shaft. The rod is constructed much like a connecting rod in an internal combustion engine, with a small end and a big end - the big end being split so that half is part of the rod, and the other half forms a cap that encloses a journal on the main shaft that is offset from the center line and provides the necessary throw. The two pieces are secured together with screws. At the apex of the cap, there is a large hole bored partially into the cap, and a smaller hole inside the big hole that goes the rest of the way through. The large hole provides a place where wick material - typically firm felt - is placed and is subsequently soaked in sewing machine oil. It is a necessary maintenance procedure to occasionally add more oil to the felt wick as it provides lubrication to the big end of the connecting rod via the small hole that goes through the cap to the main shaft journal. Felt cord of the correct diameter is readily available from industrial suppliers such as McMaster-Carr. Difficulty of installation depends upon the specific machine model, some are simple to access, some require the removal of the connecting rod cap at minimum. I hope that helps...
It tested your mettle a bit - just like a kid tests the "boundaries" - and after you left it for a while to reflect on its behaviour it quickly figured out who was boss after all and decided that "Yes, actually - I would like my pudding - and I don't really like being left by myself with nobody to play with. So I'll reluctantly eat these horrid vegetables. Since you insist!"
Megan, you have NO idea! :-) This one didn't want to budge, which is bad enough, but the smell!!!!!
I have a question. I have a 99 and a 99k, how many of the parts are interchangeable?
The short answer is, "it depends". The long answer is there are three basic era's of the 99, the early models with a screw type stitch length regulator and the smaller diameter needle bar (about .187"), the later version with screw type regulator and a larger diameter needle bar (.250"), and the models with the lever type stitch length regulator. Parts interchangeability between US and UK made machines should be 100%, assuming you are working with models of the same era. There is some interchangeability between eras, but that's another story...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop The 99 is a 1928 year model. The 99k is 1954. I changed out the face plate, thread spindle and the balance wheel. Bought the 99 at an estate sale it is in a bentwood box.
@@lindacarlotti333 OK, the question of the hour... What other parts are you looking to interchange? The 99K of that year (should) have a lever type stitch length regulator, but if it doesn't, just about all parts should be interchangable.
Just today I simply removed the motor and the belt and the handrail and when I put everything back I can’t get the main part on top to do its thing and move the needle bar up and down. Any idea what I did wrong
I wonder if someone used kerosene to clean & oil (or protect) it.
I have a Slant-o-Matic that the bobbin clutch won't move. Not that the needle going is the worst thing when winding a bobbin, but it's annoying
Try taking the balance wheel off and cleaning the inside of the shaft with a piece of Scotch-Brite pad, likewise the surface it rides on, then oil it lightly.
Singar zigzag 4511 seting in urdu plz
Did a male cat spray it? It is hard to get that smell out of metal.
Oh, I know the smell of cat pee.... That's not what I'm smelling, it smells more like nail polish remover.
Does it smell like acetone, could someone used it to try & clean the old oil within the machine..
no idea who you are going to get that smell out beside airing it
or put a container with carb soda..
I did this to a singer 99K that has the two tone blue trapeze wood case & lavender oil on a cotton ball in open jar & closed the case with machine still in there ,
as machine had a very strong mould smell regardless how much I cleaned the machine up with sewing oil & it’s slowly losing that mouldy smell..
& I do refresh the bi carb soda & lavender oil cotton ball in the jar ..
Mine is really noisy. Dont know why
Not enough cussin' -- there's your problem. Aero Kroil FTW! Great save, Boss!
Hahahahaha!