It's always been a hot topic, but I'm with you guys on the powder release for 85-90% of our jobs. You just can't beat the end result! Thanks for all the info!
powder is better 4 sure, for color, but tbh so many people do it wrong, i would recommend liquid. i wouldnt tint it. permatique really has came along way. not to many guys can do the color hardner right and powder release these days, especially the cleaning process. if taught correctly its the way to go. i aint messing w it anymore though
What can I use to color the pitting / chips in my stamped patio? I have some chips and small divots that are very white, compared to my slate gray with charcoal release. Thanks for any help
Thanks for watching! We recommend sifting color hardener and mixing that with water to make a slurry to fix popouts. Check out this video where we go in depth on how to do this: th-cam.com/video/r7GIUvxm0vQ/w-d-xo.html
our local store recommended a liquid release for stamp and an antique release to broadcast with medium gray on uncolored concrete for the ashlar slate for our sidewalk.
@@adamleen595that’s interesting, I’ve always had good results with integral and tend to always have gray bleed through (marbling) with color hardeners. What type of sealer do you use?
@@marcroland2261 I’ve used all kinds of different solvent based dealers. It’s when I’ve used liquid release with it tk stamp with. Sealer takes blotchy in some spots. Not on all, but just a few. And if had so many pours not match. With a huge difference
Thanks for the comment! Here's a link to a full video on the differences between color hardener and integral color. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! th-cam.com/video/wdVSJ6TFgk8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment! Color hardener is cast on the top of the concrete immediately after bull floating, and worked into the concrete. It colors the concrete and hardens it at the same time. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on color hardener. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! th-cam.com/video/wdVSJ6TFgk8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/XBboCF0xbJs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/play/PLgaJ0iW5t2konQH-ck4mPFhVKDYbXpRS_.html
As far as liquid release is concerned. Is the chemical makeup of “bubblegum” release, and odorless mineral spirits virtually the same? To say it differently, can one use the two products interchangeably?
Thanks for the comment! Liquid Bubble Gum release is different than mineral spirits, and we would not recommend interchanging the two. Mineral spirits can work as a release in emergencies, but it won't work as well as bubble release that is designed for stamping concrete. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Have not used a color hardener yet with powder, so maybe that's part of the problem, but for me in northern Michigan where freeze/thaw conditions are frequent, I've noticed that there's alot of surface popping at the seams within 1 or 2 years of application. Don't use powder anymore & not having that problem anymore. Any one have any thoughts or experience with that issue???? Cause u are right about antiquing, color blend not as good.
Thanks for the comment! If switching to liquid release solved the problem, then I'd say it may have had something to do with how much of the powder release you were washing off. Leaving too much behind can definitely cause some problems. Sometimes, you'll even need a floor buffer with a scrubbing pad to get enough off. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on the topic of removing powder release. All in all, it sounds like the liquid release is working good for you, but the powder does look better, and these tips will help you out if you decide to give it another try. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! th-cam.com/video/zi-dPrn5kFo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/H_pSAjN1EBk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/XbuBbZtHRNo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/D_uARjn4dXU/w-d-xo.html
Both of these release agents are for stamping concrete. No release would be required if you're booming or trowel finishing the concrete. You could still add integral color to concrete if you wanted to change the color. Thanks for watching!!!
@@DecoCreteTV Thanks for answering, what happens is that I am going to make a 10'x3' sidewalk and someone gave me a bottle of texture stamp material Dark gray and a bottle of release agent color charcoal and they told me that if I don't want to stamp the concrete I can use it only as a color with a booming finish and with a trowel since I don't have anything to print
@@mrsancho691 You can broadcast a shake on color hardener and float it into the surface, then trowel and broom it. This would only be to change the color though, not really necessary. Integral color would be much easier especially if you dont have much finishing experience.
Thanks for watching!!! It means a lot to us when people tune in from half way across the world🙂 You can use the link below to view the color options. Please email alexm@deco-cretesupply.com for a shipping quote. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/deco-crete-antique-release/deco-crete-antique-release
When I was off loader release it looks like I take enough off but when I seal it wow it’s dark like I didn’t take enough off. What is the trick? I feel like my stamp jobs would be so much better, I always have perfect impressions and everything.
Thanks for the comment! Washing off enough release is key! Too much left behind won't look as good and can also lead to sealer delamination. Having a 3,500psi power washer is the first step, but sometimes even that isn't enough. When the slab is still wet from washing, it'll look close to how it would when sealed. If you think it's still too dark, you can do a few things to get more off. The first thing would be to run a floor buffer and scrubbing pad over the area. If you still need to get more off, you can do a light wash with Deco Prep or muriatic acid. I'll leave some links to a few other videos and the Deco Prep page on our website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! th-cam.com/video/zi-dPrn5kFo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/XbuBbZtHRNo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/H_pSAjN1EBk/w-d-xo.html www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/repair-prep-products-concrete-cleaners-waxes-acid-stain/deco-prep
@@DecoCreteTV butterfield and brickform can cause fisheyes on cool days. I believe the concrete needs to be thoroughly cleaned regardless. Pores need to be opened to accept sealer.
I 100% disagree. Liquid allows for error. And creates a blank slate for all kinds of antiques and stains. My Theory: Sealer fails. About 2-4 years in. Always does. When it does fail, 90% of the time the powder antique goes with it. Now when this process was first done, the concrete was wet. I can’t recreate that process. (Concrete guarantees to get hard and crack). So since the sealer WILL fail and repairs WILL need to be done, I can perfectly antique a job over and over again when liquid is used. I can antique on powder, but never is perfect (and I am a perfectionist). Powder can also cause some stains not to take as well when staining individual rocks. Also, liquid allows the rummy dums to mess up. Oh. And a crisp impression??? (Surface cracks, pull up, etc etc…..) wait till the surface is damn near set up and use a horse hair broom for any surface imperfections. I’m 100% liquid. More room to get creative and is a Product that CAN last a lifetime if cared for. Or not cared for and can be fixed pretty easily Also, liquid helps when you have 2 pours that doesn’t match really well. Use an antique on all to tie it all together
It's always been a hot topic, but I'm with you guys on the powder release for 85-90% of our jobs. You just can't beat the end result! Thanks for all the info!
I’ve been wanting this video forever. Thank you
Great editing 😂 and still learning after 9 years on concreting! Thanks!
Very candid, honest explanation.
Good job!!
Thanks for the comment!!👍
powder is better 4 sure, for color, but tbh so many people do it wrong, i would recommend liquid. i wouldnt tint it. permatique really has came along way. not to many guys can do the color hardner right and powder release these days, especially the cleaning process. if taught correctly its the way to go. i aint messing w it anymore though
Great info as always!👍🏽
Great video!
What can I use to color the pitting / chips in my stamped patio? I have some chips and small divots that are very white, compared to my slate gray with charcoal release. Thanks for any help
Thanks for watching! We recommend sifting color hardener and mixing that with water to make a slurry to fix popouts. Check out this video where we go in depth on how to do this: th-cam.com/video/r7GIUvxm0vQ/w-d-xo.html
our local store recommended a liquid release for stamp and an antique release to broadcast with medium gray on uncolored concrete for the ashlar slate for our sidewalk.
I HATE integral color. It does some funky stuff with solvent sealers. I’ve ran into more issues with integral than anything. Broadcast color hardener
@@adamleen595that’s interesting, I’ve always had good results with integral and tend to always have gray bleed through (marbling) with color hardeners. What type of sealer do you use?
@@marcroland2261 I’ve used all kinds of different solvent based dealers. It’s when I’ve used liquid release with it tk stamp with. Sealer takes blotchy in some spots. Not on all, but just a few. And if had so many pours not match. With a huge difference
Whats the difference between color hardner and having the color put into the concrete at the cement plant ?
Thanks for the comment! Here's a link to a full video on the differences between color hardener and integral color. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
th-cam.com/video/wdVSJ6TFgk8/w-d-xo.html
You mentioned,color hardener , can you tell me how that is introduced to the process
Thanks for the comment! Color hardener is cast on the top of the concrete immediately after bull floating, and worked into the concrete. It colors the concrete and hardens it at the same time. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on color hardener. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
th-cam.com/video/wdVSJ6TFgk8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/XBboCF0xbJs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/play/PLgaJ0iW5t2konQH-ck4mPFhVKDYbXpRS_.html
As far as liquid release is concerned. Is the chemical makeup of “bubblegum” release, and odorless mineral spirits virtually the same? To say it differently, can one use the two products interchangeably?
Thanks for the comment! Liquid Bubble Gum release is different than mineral spirits, and we would not recommend interchanging the two. Mineral spirits can work as a release in emergencies, but it won't work as well as bubble release that is designed for stamping concrete. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Have not used a color hardener yet with powder, so maybe that's part of the problem, but for me in northern Michigan where freeze/thaw conditions are frequent, I've noticed that there's alot of surface popping at the seams within 1 or 2 years of application. Don't use powder anymore & not having that problem anymore. Any one have any thoughts or experience with that issue???? Cause u are right about antiquing, color blend not as good.
Thanks for the comment! If switching to liquid release solved the problem, then I'd say it may have had something to do with how much of the powder release you were washing off. Leaving too much behind can definitely cause some problems. Sometimes, you'll even need a floor buffer with a scrubbing pad to get enough off. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on the topic of removing powder release. All in all, it sounds like the liquid release is working good for you, but the powder does look better, and these tips will help you out if you decide to give it another try. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
th-cam.com/video/zi-dPrn5kFo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/H_pSAjN1EBk/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/XbuBbZtHRNo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/D_uARjn4dXU/w-d-xo.html
Hey, Does anyone know if instead of stamping the concrete it can be finished with a broom and a trowel with that same material?
Both of these release agents are for stamping concrete. No release would be required if you're booming or trowel finishing the concrete. You could still add integral color to concrete if you wanted to change the color. Thanks for watching!!!
@@DecoCreteTV Thanks for answering, what happens is that I am going to make a 10'x3' sidewalk and someone gave me a bottle of texture stamp material Dark gray and a bottle of release agent color charcoal and they told me that if I don't want to stamp the concrete I can use it only as a color with a booming finish and with a trowel since I don't have anything to print
@@mrsancho691 You can broadcast a shake on color hardener and float it into the surface, then trowel and broom it. This would only be to change the color though, not really necessary. Integral color would be much easier especially if you dont have much finishing experience.
Can I brush up the dry power and reuse on another project??
It's not recommended, but we have done it in a pinch and will work..
How can I get the release agent here in Nigeria
Thanks for watching!!! It means a lot to us when people tune in from half way across the world🙂 You can use the link below to view the color options. Please email alexm@deco-cretesupply.com for a shipping quote. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/deco-crete-antique-release/deco-crete-antique-release
Thanks for a great video.
Thank you!!!
When I was off loader release it looks like I take enough off but when I seal it wow it’s dark like I didn’t take enough off. What is the trick? I feel like my stamp jobs would be so much better, I always have perfect impressions and everything.
Thanks for the comment! Washing off enough release is key! Too much left behind won't look as good and can also lead to sealer delamination. Having a 3,500psi power washer is the first step, but sometimes even that isn't enough. When the slab is still wet from washing, it'll look close to how it would when sealed. If you think it's still too dark, you can do a few things to get more off. The first thing would be to run a floor buffer and scrubbing pad over the area. If you still need to get more off, you can do a light wash with Deco Prep or muriatic acid. I'll leave some links to a few other videos and the Deco Prep page on our website. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! th-cam.com/video/zi-dPrn5kFo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/XbuBbZtHRNo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/H_pSAjN1EBk/w-d-xo.html
www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/repair-prep-products-concrete-cleaners-waxes-acid-stain/deco-prep
@@DecoCreteTV
Do you have to pressure wash off bubble gum release before u seal? If not how long should u wait to seal using bubble gum liquid release?
No you do not, the bubblegum release will evaporate within a day. As long as you are not sealing the same day as you poured it should all be gone.
100% yes. I recommend between a 50:1 to 25:1 acid wash. It’ll leave fisheyes if not cleaned well. Sureklean is a great product for that
@@DecoCreteTV butterfield and brickform can cause fisheyes on cool days. I believe the concrete needs to be thoroughly cleaned regardless. Pores need to be opened to accept sealer.
@@adamleen595what are fisheyes?
Liquid release is absolutely the best with a great great great impression. It's way better than powder.
Thanks for the input!!
I 100% disagree. Liquid allows for error. And creates a blank slate for all kinds of antiques and stains. My Theory:
Sealer fails. About 2-4 years in. Always does. When it does fail, 90% of the time the powder antique goes with it. Now when this process was first done, the concrete was wet. I can’t recreate that process. (Concrete guarantees to get hard and crack). So since the sealer WILL fail and repairs WILL need to be done, I can perfectly antique a job over and over again when liquid is used. I can antique on powder, but never is perfect (and I am a perfectionist). Powder can also cause some stains not to take as well when staining individual rocks. Also, liquid allows the rummy dums to mess up.
Oh. And a crisp impression??? (Surface cracks, pull up, etc etc…..) wait till the surface is damn near set up and use a horse hair broom for any surface imperfections.
I’m 100% liquid. More room to get creative and is a Product that CAN last a lifetime if cared for. Or not cared for and can be fixed pretty easily
Also, liquid helps when you have 2 pours that doesn’t match really well. Use an antique on all to tie it all together
Powder is a tad faster though
thanks for the input! its all about finding what works best for you👍
Could you not just re-seal your concrete after every 2 years and keep all of the benefits of the powdered release?
Do a segment on how to get the best colors like a charcole gray, or. Try colors
Thanks for the comment!!!