I'm very impressed that a 33 minute un scripted "information/tutorial" video moves so well. The subject of course is interesting and your confidence in the narration makes for a very professional presentation. It's not flat or isolated, rather your ability to acknowledge with enthusiasm your audiences presence and interests is outstanding. Lake environment and birds too add to the realness of the project, it's just a darn good video bud !
OMG, I'm so happy I saw this. It happen I have to install a beam by myself, 2x 2x12x16' and I was trying to think of a way with ropes and ladder and I don't know what!!! I'm just going to go with strap!! WOW I'm glad, you just saved my back, the timing is perfect
Important Protip: Don't use your hand as a hammer - there are a lot of little bones that can be damaged super easily and will cause lots of problems the older you get. Good tip figuring out how tall your posts needed to be (total on the tape minus the beam) - I always break out the calculator on things like that. The straps to hold the beam were pretty smart, too (until they were in the way HAHA). Loving this series - thanks for sharing!
Good Video Shannon! It is coming along nicely! Those birdies were chirping away. At least You had decent weather for it. Great ingenuity there with the straps. The M18 Nailer is impressive. Not quite ready to give up my old Hitachi Pneumatic Framing nailer yet. I’m sure that Day will come. Take care! 👍💪✌🇨🇦🇺🇸💯
The straps being in the way is SO TYPICAL when rigging something like this, I totally groaned OF COURSE with you. Ha ha ha... Nice work. I have those same exact teleposts in my basement here for a similar beam next to my stairs going down. They're being used permanently but I think I remember hearing or reading somewhere they're really only supposed to be for temporary bracing and you need concrete-filled fixed-hight posts ("lally columns") for permanent use? I can't remember where I heard that but it's always sort of nagged me.
LVL=Laminated Veneer Lumber. The main difference with plywood is that in plywood each ply is oriented transversally in regard to the previous one, but in LVL all the plys are oriented vertically to increase its load capacity.
Another excellent informative video, sir. I’m loving this series. Please do not cover those hand prints. “Unfortunately, a concrete contractor slipped & fell into the forms. He tried to get out, but it was too late.” Well, that’s what I would tell someone who asked anyway 😊
Shannon, great video series. I am dialed back into your channel! Why did you cut the support short of the final full length floor joist? As a totally untrained eye it looked strange that it wouldnt run from both full length floor joists? Thanks!
Hey, love the videos. Your siding videos were incredibly helpful for a role up door installation I recently completed. I was wondering if you will put a level your new beam after the sub floor goes on or multiple times during the build or at all? Nice to see a fellow Sask guy doing well on TH-cam too.
I will check level once i frame the interior as things may settle a bit once there is weight there. I know at this point that because the rim joist piece was attached at the ends that once the beam was snugged up it should be pretty close to the same as the rest of the joists on each side of the opening
That is really great! I remember my parents house in the basement or cellar, having those posts supporting the above floor. Before the walls go up covering those posts, are you going to put any cross bracing from top on one side to bottom on the other? Like a big X brace? Looking forward to the next videos.
how do you like your Milwaukee nailer? i went from yellow to red tools a few years ago but i still use the dewalt framing nailer. the Milwaukee was just too damn heavy.
It is a bit heavy with the battery. But, it works very well. I’ve built a few decks and balconies with it and other than the seemingly constant need to refill the nail magazine, no complaints. Much better than dragging an air hose across your project with a pneumatic type.
Load transfer directly to the two footing pads under slab. 4” slab is not structural and not sitting on undisturbed soil. Also the interior walls will br “floating walls” so they can not support anything
Yeah. It's a concern. Especially if they get rained on a lot during install. I prefer 2 x 10 joists if cost is an issue, but the downside is crowning. TJI's (Truss Joist I-beam) have the advantage of being uniform and perfectly level. It saves a lot of headache with laminate and tile flooring later. If cost isn't an issue floor trusses are the best option. No crowning, no support beams required, lots of open area to run pipes, wires, and ducts. Perfect.
![Basement Waterproofing & Weeping Tile [Cabin Project]](/img/n.gif)
“Lipstick on a pig.” That was funny! Love your videos all these years
I'm very impressed that a 33 minute un scripted "information/tutorial" video moves so well. The subject of course is interesting and your confidence in the narration makes for a very professional presentation. It's not flat or isolated, rather your ability to acknowledge with enthusiasm your audiences presence and interests is outstanding. Lake environment and birds too add to the realness of the project, it's just a darn good video bud !
Thank-you very much!
OMG, I'm so happy I saw this. It happen I have to install a beam by myself, 2x 2x12x16' and I was trying to think of a way with ropes and ladder and I don't know what!!! I'm just going to go with strap!! WOW I'm glad, you just saved my back, the timing is perfect
Glad I could help!
As always, another phenomenal video!!!! In over 10 years of watching, I think that was the first camera man debut! Great work Shannon and camera man!!
He has had cameos before the very odd time
Another great cabin video! I hope to see a tour video when it's finally done to show off all this hard work!
Thanks for another update. Also, I love the boots. I use them when power washing.
Nice! Thanks Shannon.
Thankyou for the teaching ,and tips .thx for your time and making these videos..Good work. 💪💪👍👍
Important Protip: Don't use your hand as a hammer - there are a lot of little bones that can be damaged super easily and will cause lots of problems the older you get.
Good tip figuring out how tall your posts needed to be (total on the tape minus the beam) - I always break out the calculator on things like that.
The straps to hold the beam were pretty smart, too (until they were in the way HAHA).
Loving this series - thanks for sharing!
Good Video Shannon! It is coming along nicely!
Those birdies were chirping away. At least You had decent weather for it.
Great ingenuity there with the straps. The M18 Nailer is impressive. Not quite ready to give up my old Hitachi Pneumatic Framing nailer yet. I’m sure that Day will come.
Take care! 👍💪✌🇨🇦🇺🇸💯
Red neck works every time!!!!!!!
The straps being in the way is SO TYPICAL when rigging something like this, I totally groaned OF COURSE with you. Ha ha ha... Nice work. I have those same exact teleposts in my basement here for a similar beam next to my stairs going down. They're being used permanently but I think I remember hearing or reading somewhere they're really only supposed to be for temporary bracing and you need concrete-filled fixed-hight posts ("lally columns") for permanent use? I can't remember where I heard that but it's always sort of nagged me.
These are permanent here .
LVL=Laminated Veneer Lumber. The main difference with plywood is that in plywood each ply is oriented transversally in regard to the previous one, but in LVL all the plys are oriented vertically to increase its load capacity.
Another excellent informative video, sir. I’m loving this series. Please do not cover those hand prints. “Unfortunately, a concrete contractor slipped & fell into the forms. He tried to get out, but it was too late.” Well, that’s what I would tell someone who asked anyway 😊
Shannon, great video series. I am dialed back into your channel! Why did you cut the support short of the final full length floor joist? As a totally untrained eye it looked strange that it wouldnt run from both full length floor joists?
Thanks!
I did not need to support that joist. The other end needed support because the stair case will hang from it.
Hey, love the videos. Your siding videos were incredibly helpful for a role up door installation I recently completed. I was wondering if you will put a level your new beam after the sub floor goes on or multiple times during the build or at all? Nice to see a fellow Sask guy doing well on TH-cam too.
I will check level once i frame the interior as things may settle a bit once there is weight there. I know at this point that because the rim joist piece was attached at the ends that once the beam was snugged up it should be pretty close to the same as the rest of the joists on each side of the opening
That is really great! I remember my parents house in the basement or cellar, having those posts supporting the above floor. Before the walls go up covering those posts, are you going to put any cross bracing from top on one side to bottom on the other? Like a big X brace?
Looking forward to the next videos.
No need for cross braces. Posts plates are attached to the underside of beam and to floor.
Glad to see Mr. Murphy visits your projects, too. 😬
TJI - truss joist
For all nailed areas, would it not be best to glue using construction adhesive for extra strength and lessen future floor squeaks?
You could if you thought it was better.
how do you like your Milwaukee nailer? i went from yellow to red tools a few years ago but i still use the dewalt framing nailer. the Milwaukee was just too damn heavy.
It is a bit heavy with the battery. But, it works very well. I’ve built a few decks and balconies with it and other than the seemingly constant need to refill the nail magazine, no complaints. Much better than dragging an air hose across your project with a pneumatic type.
Its heavy for sure , not sure i could frame all day everyday with it. I have a Paslode gas nailer as well , i prefer it for all day constant projects
What were you using to mark the ground at 20:20 ? Love the video!
A construction pencil
Pica 3030 + 4040 Dry Pen including Special Lead Base Set, Carpenter's Pencil, Green, Blue, White a.co/d/hh9O1sh
Nice video. Why not just frame up a 2x4 stud wall under those beams if it’s going to be a wall anyway?
My guess is to tranfert the load on the footing instead of the whole slab
@@acontant80the slab should be plenty strong having the load spread out that length
Load transfer directly to the two footing pads under slab. 4” slab is not structural and not sitting on undisturbed soil. Also the interior walls will br “floating walls” so they can not support anything
@@seephor actually a 4” pad can not take point loads like this properly
TJI=Trus Joist I Beam.
Makes sense
What lake is cabin on
Buffalo Pound
OSHA approved gumboots 😂
Actually those are steel toed, my runners….not so much
I can only imagine what will happen to all these houses when the glue in the engineered lumber starts to fail.
Hopefully not
Yeah. It's a concern. Especially if they get rained on a lot during install. I prefer 2 x 10 joists if cost is an issue, but the downside is crowning. TJI's (Truss Joist I-beam) have the advantage of being uniform and perfectly level. It saves a lot of headache with laminate and tile flooring later.
If cost isn't an issue floor trusses are the best option. No crowning, no support beams required, lots of open area to run pipes, wires, and ducts. Perfect.