Datasheets usually specify a compliant pad (foam) in between pouch layers and also a uniform clamping pressure for the entire sandwich of around 4-18 psi. This pressure controls swelling and also ensures best performance as it helps the electrodes inside have the best contact.
In case your curious, Kapton tape can withstand temperatures of 500° F or about 260° C long term, with a max short term capability to withstand temperatures of 572° F or about 300° C. I don't know what the definition of short term is, but I wouldn't want it to be at the max temp for more than a few minutes personally, or preferably ever. With the application in the video above, the temp should never get anywhere close to the long term temp unless something goes really wrong ( short ), so it's a good use case.
Good idea but not a great implementation, because kapton tape was designed for use as a thermal isolator to prevent electronic components absorbing heat when neighboring components were heat gunned or soldered to pcb’s. Isolators also act as insulators in the case where the bms is fully encased by the kapton tape, essentially you have create a thermos when leaving no path for the components to dissipate heat. Small detail, but often is the difference between a thermal runaway event and having a standing house.
i'm making a power wall with these. i've made them with aluminum clamp pieces that allow four to six parallel and helps space them out so as to not make overheating a problem. the clamp screws allow easy replacement of cells and only require one hole in the tabs . that small screw allows the bms to measure voltage for each cell at the joint between cells. all easy to assemble and take apart to reconfigure or fix. if you want to see or are interested message me here.
I'd love to see this. Any chance you can post a photo and maybe link to parts? I'm trying to do something similar. It's easy enough to connect these in series with rivets like Jehu did since the tabs can be bent towards each other, but in a parallel configuration, that's not really an option since you have to connect each tab to *both* neighboring cells.
Brilliant, I've been looking to make a power backpack for my Marita Garden tools. I've trawled online for 18650 solutions to no avail, but your video has energized me, this is genius, cheaper, better and awesome power output. Your camera work also awesome, best yet.
SAFETY NOTE! Be sure you don't place the rivets to close to the metalize pouch edge on the contacts. I did this and luckily I got a few sparks to let me know something was wrong before I completely seated the first rivet.
I know this is an old video but are the brads connecting those cells safe for the full 200a constant and 400a bursts or should i solder some 4 guage wire linking each cell as well?
@@juancarloshernandez1769 each cable gets to the joint of the two packs. So in the 7s you would have 8 cables, 1 for positive, 1 negative, then 1 for each joint
Nice video as always Jehu. I have been looking at those pouch cells. I like the idea of using low resistance cells very lightly for a long life. They are for sure much cheaper than 18650’s, but also way less work. I think the chemistry is inferior and not nearly as long life. As long as they are cheap it remains an attractive proposition.
They're designed to be cycled at high C-rates. If you're only running them at 2-3C and don't use the max/min voltages, they'll last a long time. These cells don't have great energy density at a bit over ~100Wh/kg, but for a stationary application it's really not a big deal as long as you have the space for it.
@@phateracing But packing round hard cells into a square box lets air gaps. packing these into a box has a density like this. I put 42 of these into a 13.7 inch by 9 inch by 4-3/4 inch high box(custom made). Inside dimensions.7s 28 volt setup. I am getting 1624 watt hours out of it. 38.8 watt hours per cell. that's 105 amp hours at 4 volt. 10.5 amp hour each cell. 10500 mha. I am drawing at .03C(5 amp draw) to get this. But very impressive. 4.2 volt to 2.5 volt. On top of the box I added circuit breakers and wiring and some buss bars. And another cover. Total weight is 31 lbs. My box is 14 kg =1625 Wh. 586 cubic inches. 116 wh/kg. What can do better then that? under 580 cubic inches? Wiring, and attaching hardware included?
got a module or 2. 7s from hookup. can i use an 8 s BMS i have on hand, leave off last lead..? ok with balance only.. rely on inverter shut off for low volt cutoff.. thanks.
Saludo Garcia. pregunta. si se puedes usar estas batterias para un sistema solar de 24 v. tambien si se necesita un inverter especial para estas batterias
Come on Jehu.....SHow us how you connected the 7s BMS to this type of IN SERIES battery system. The part that you speeded through in the video was the point that a few of us really needed to see since you had the pos-neg soldered together. Please show us how you did it . Thanks
Eyelet kit work fine for me, but i ran out of eyelets need a refill. anyone know which grommet replacements I should get? already bought the wrong size once.
Hi All, I'm an Electrician... Just a heads up, you can utilize a specialized paste called NOALOX. Its for any Aluminum to Copper Connection that will pass current. We use it all the time where we have copper wire inside aluminum terminal blocks. Go Get Some!
@@bungle555 Yes. Aluminum grows an oxide layer on the surface when exposed to air and the paste keeps air away from the aluminum surface to prevent oxidation. Oxide increases the connection resistance and that leads to overheating at the connection under load. Without the paste things will work fine at the beginning (such as when the battery pack was initially made and tested), but over time the aluminum connections will degrade.
You made the comment that you are using a cheap BMS for this project. What BMS would you recommend for a 48v wind and solar pack? I am looking for something that will keep the packs safe.
Can the SPIM08HP batteries be safely used for a 24V power bank to power a 3000w / 120 volt AC power inverter? I am looking to build a small 24V solar power system to power a refrigerator, some electronics and a few lights during a power failure. I was thinking of using marine batteries, but they would take up too much room and are heavy and hard to move around.. Also how many 24V packs would it take to store the power I need for a 18 to 24 hour period? I live in S.E. Florida so sun light isn't a concern. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. Jim
Ajemo, I agree. I would never thought of it either and it seems ideal. I just ordered from Tom, and then followed Jehu's Amazon link to get the grommets. I'm getting excited! :-D
@@Boba-Fett-GS1150Ez That I understand and I think is mentioned in several places. Only thing that concerns me are the batteries i received that are puffed or get hot during charge. Pretty sure those are on their last stretch. Did you have any like this in your order?
Thank You for the video. I soldered some 14g wire to the tabs and added 1/4 eyelets so the cells are bolted together for the wire connection. Its not the best and I am thinking about redoing this the way you have. My use is not high power right now around 3-4 Amps. Just hobby use for solar and getting into Lipo batteries.
Great video, What if one was to use these for high power, What circle connectors would you use different and what gauge output positive and negative? Let’s say I needed 200 amps continuously and 400 bursts at 100v So I would double each one to 2p or 3p
do the rivets like he did but also solder 4 guage wire to one side of the positive and negative connections which are riveted. On your first negative and last positive use 2awg cable it is rated for 350 constant.
What kind of connection can u use to get the full power out of the cells I'm building an audio system very high power output ANY ASSISTANCE WOULD BE GREAT 👍
Yes but you would need to connect more in series to get correct voltage he's doing 7s for 24v so say do 14s for 48v and so on most electric bikes won't pull more then 30 amps
Would it be possible to use theses cells to make a lipo replacement for a car battery.... maybe suggest a BMS or no BMS? I feel like 200Amp should be enough for a 4 cylinder.
OK, now I understand the BMS, thankyou for the help! However, how many of the BMS wires did you connect to the batteries, only 3 or all 6 wires and at which point?
I ordered some of these batteries and am trying to use them to replace my RV batteries and and in a solar setup. I am not sure what BMS to buy . My RV hooks up to 50a so should I buy a 4s 50a BMS?
hello i'm new in building battery pack . what to know if i can make a 48v 13s spim08hp for e-bike or is just better to build two 24v 7s spim08hp pack and what charger should i use ?
i just got some of these cells, have you noticed any problems with them shorting to the cases? Im thinking most of that is because I used bolts, nuts and washers.
Can you do a video on electrical safety? Especially on the 48v higher amperage setups and dangers associated with ac vs dc (if there is even a difference?). I am curious know at what point these systems can start to harm you.
Mr Garcia, I built 6 of those batteries. What can I do with those? I just wanted to built but I have no plan with to do with. Can I buy some solar panels and setup for off grid or on grid? If I can, how many panels should I buy? Those 7S1P battery has how many amp, watt ? What is the best way to charge and setup? Thank you for you time. John C
I am trying to come up with a solution to powering a fishfinder and two go pro cameras while i am in the field 6 to 8 hours per day. 50ah 12v would work just fine. could you maybe do a video on that?
Hello! Thanks for your video! It is still very useful! But where you bought these batteries from the link - they are no longer available! Please tell me where now you can buy such batteries?
Got a question for you. 1 have a 120v controller. What would work better:16.8 volt packs x 7=117.6 volts( full charged 4.2 volts per cell) or 24 volt packs charged to( 4.0 volts per cell)?
spim08hp flat cells from battery hookups. danger danger. they don't tell you. many of these cells have problems inside. there is current flow between the foil covering insulation layer and the terminals of many cells. measure the terminal to edge voltage along the seams. i'v gotten 3.9 volts off the foil wrapper. the cells will puff and be destroyed from self discharge. many of my 60 plus cells i bought do not have this problem. all the 30 % that puffed without ever being under load have the short to the foil. warning the edges of the cell packs carry current. not safe for marine environment at all. i only made 12 volt packs at higher voltages there will be bigger sparks from foil to terminals. danger if they self discharge they will puff and oh they say you didn't do good assembly. they don't say anything about do not touch electrically hot foil next to terminals. if a buss bar touches the edge of the foil it will short out the whole battery.
your inverter in the dead short test video sounds like the bearing of the cooling fans was going bad you might need to replace those sometime in the future.
I think he soldered them to the brass eyelets. the black wire #1 wire goes to the neg end of the first cell. (Main negative of pack). the 2nd wire (white) beside the black wire goes to the positive side of the same first cell. Then the 3rd wire(white) goes to the positive side of the second cell. 4th wire to positive of 3rd cell. Keep going down the connector. All wires go to the positive sides of the cells. Having a red wire and calling it the positive is confusing,. all whites are positive . There are 7s connectors being sold that have the black wire on the wrong side. Follow the negative mark on your charger or balancer, then go from there.
Jehu, Is there a good way to make an engine start battery that will stay hooked to an alternator while running? These batteries need to stop charging once full and disconnect from the charging circuit, but an alternator needs to have a battery to keep working. I have seen engine start Lipo batteries for racing vehicles to reduce weight, but I don't see them used for this in everyday vehicles. I would like to replace 240 pounds of batteries in my boat with a lot less weight.
Jehu, I was wondering if you thought of making these into 10S 36V packs and use them in your Tripp Lite Emergency Solar generator project? I just got the hollow UPS and was musing over the idea of stuffing 2 10S packs with these SPIM08 pouches. Do you think they would fit? I know the original idea of the Tripp Lite project was to make something simple and off-the-shelf, but where's the fun in that?
Hey, good build. What's the width with those tabs taped down on the side? (I'm curious why you didn't use kapton tape there.) Tom's video didn't give the thickness, either. A tip for better soldering, Jehu, is to wet that sponge and wipe the oxidized solder and rosin off the tip. It will transfer more heat and faster, every single time. Quick question: I'm holding up the build of an ebike (the sale of which will allow me to make another 2 ebikes) hoping that you'll sell those Sony VTC6es to me some time soon. Are you going to get back into the sales of those wonderful batteries in the next month or two? I'd love to buy a whole box of Sony and another whole box of Panasonic. (we fans WANT you to succeed in DIY Powerwall board kits and battery sales, Jehu!)
What's your thoughts on using these packs to run a trolling motor? If so how many packs would you need to get 120 AH @ 12V I think it would be 15 right?
thats what Im doing with these. You only get the AH increase for the parrallel connections I believe. so 3 in series x 15 in parallel =45 cells would be 12v 120 ah. Unfortunelatley you will go slower once they drop in voltage so maybe opt for a 4s pack. Disclaimer: you may or may not burn up your 12v motor running it for long periods at 16 volts, I got a speed controller/potentiometer to eliminate this risk.
Nice little pack, I would just avoid wrapping the whole thing up in the tape, if there is an expansion in the cells you don't want them to have pressure holding them tightly like that. A few pieces on the sides to hold the shape whilst still allowing the centre to bulge if there is a problem would be better.
Pouch cells need to be under some amount of compression to work properly under load. But at only 2-3C these things are pretty much never gonna have a problem.
phateracing just to make sure I understand correctly what you're saying; keeping these batteries and their current usage in mind, they DO indeed have to be wrapped? So as to keep compression and work properly?
@@MrGarda42 The pouch itself is all the compression that is needed in pouch cells like these. What @phateracting is saying doesn't make any sense... As far as packs being compressed and the cells expanding - yeah its an issue but id rather build for the use-case than a "what if" this is what battery pouches (thermal/ballistic resistant pouches) are for.
hi, i am kind of new to this. but i thought, your doing a 7s for a 24v pack and that would mean a 8ah pack. but you say you used a 20ah bms and that you intend to do another project were you are going to use 6 of these packs and you say 6X20=120ah. could you explain? cuase i am thinking on doing a 7s 30p for 240ah. is that to crazy? was thinking initially to do 30p to get the 240ah and then take those packs and assemble the 7s. but then i thought the gage wire would be to big to handle 240amps. so i remembered this video and thought, why not do what jehu did, the 7s 24v packs. do 30 of those and then do the 30p to get the 240amps at the end. this way i would use smaller gage wire. simpler packs and would have the 24 volts right out the bat, and if a pack fails down the road, just have to take that pack out with out losing the 24v and only sacrificing the amps in that pack. please give your thoughts. would highly apreciate.
Yeah.... ebike... AND... what was the ending HxWxD of these bad boys? Using Horror Freight plastic ammo cans to house these. They work GREAT for my 4s2p (12v-ish) or 8s1p (24v-ish) 38120 Headways.
Did you capacity test any of these? Tom says 95-105% rated. Joe said his was in the 7.5ah hood! Just curious if you tested, and matched these? I'm thinking of building packs of 100 , for a 7s maybe connected in series, with 1" x .125" with 250-300 amp fuses, I may need spacers between ever so many cells , I havent built with these before, I'd rather build wit pouch, than 10k 18650's , I hope I can get this many, being on sale,
it would be sweet to get rid of my lead acid car battery. lately it seems like I have to hike that thing up the mountain to my jeep every time I get it going. Guess the pack just needs a bms that works. pretty much most of the reviews for this bms are crap. bet there is a nice one somewhere.
@@tomamerman7699 thanks for the information yeah I drive tractor so I like to put a stereo ammo can battery use with me but using the big block batteries I want to change it up make it a little lighter
I have a question. To make a pack of lithium batteries to 12 v I can combine cells of different capacity to have 3 pack of 21 Ah. Using batteries of 2.2 ah and 2.6 ah ?
Another great DYI e build!! I am going to try this build. The battery cells seem like a great deal on Ebay. My question is , what would you recomend for a BMS that can handle 80-100 A burst? yet supply 40-60 all the time? This will be for a skateboard/e bike. Thanks
I am building these 7s packs. .I need around 15 amps from each pack to max my motor out Plz tell me your recommended amp draw from 1 of these? Thanks for your videos!
great video man. If I want to make a 12v solar generator, would you suggest making a 3s battery or a 4s? I want to get the most out of my cells and am not sure which one to do.
@@harrisonsanin8 4s all day, just gotta make sure you get a solar charge controller that can be set to charge at the appropriate voltage, the cheap ones are just for lead acid batteries. And of course make sure your 12v load wont fry on your full charge voltage of 16.8. Or if your using an inverter get one that will handle that voltage. .
I bought a bunch of these, and they're fantastic. I have a question, though. Mine came with a huge amount of the pouch material all around the cells. Did you cut it off? I'm so afraid I'm going to break the seal/start it on fire if I do, but it's huge, like an inch on each side, and makes it harder to make into a pack.
Thank you for your videos. Can you still live video about stored energy for trailers. Your suggested best way with convenience and space. May God bless you and your work and your endeavors. 🙏🏽🙏🏾🙏🏿😇🙏🙏🏿🙏🏻
Questions for all. If you were to do this as 4s packs. mount a few packs in a box, then install into a car. Many lithium chargers can take the 14.5 volt charge from the alternator and manage charging the 4s packs. Problem is, the alt needs power supplied to it to create a field to charge. Once the packs reach 14.5 volts, the alt will be shut down by the car's voltage regulator. Is there any way to get a charger to send a 12v signal out until the packs reach 16 volts? then cut the 12 volt line . I guess a charger that knows how to manage a cars onboard voltage regulator? And a shunt that would limit the 16 volt to 13 volt so the car is not damaged?
Datasheets usually specify a compliant pad (foam) in between pouch layers and also a uniform clamping pressure for the entire sandwich of around 4-18 psi. This pressure controls swelling and also ensures best performance as it helps the electrodes inside have the best contact.
In case your curious, Kapton tape can withstand temperatures of 500° F or about 260° C long term, with a max short term capability to withstand temperatures of 572° F or about 300° C. I don't know what the definition of short term is, but I wouldn't want it to be at the max temp for more than a few minutes personally, or preferably ever. With the application in the video above, the temp should never get anywhere close to the long term temp unless something goes really wrong ( short ), so it's a good use case.
Hi can Iput them in parallel with deep cicle 12v in my solar panel array.
Appreciate if you can help.
Good idea but not a great implementation, because kapton tape was designed for use as a thermal isolator to prevent electronic components absorbing heat when neighboring components were heat gunned or soldered to pcb’s. Isolators also act as insulators in the case where the bms is fully encased by the kapton tape, essentially you have create a thermos when leaving no path for the components to dissipate heat. Small detail, but often is the difference between a thermal runaway event and having a standing house.
i'm making a power wall with these. i've made them with aluminum clamp pieces that allow four to six parallel and helps space them out so as to not make overheating a problem. the clamp screws allow easy replacement of cells and only require one hole in the tabs . that small screw allows the bms to measure voltage for each cell at the joint between cells. all easy to assemble and take apart to reconfigure or fix. if you want to see or are interested message me here.
I'd love to see this. Any chance you can post a photo and maybe link to parts?
I'm trying to do something similar. It's easy enough to connect these in series with rivets like Jehu did since the tabs can be bent towards each other, but in a parallel configuration, that's not really an option since you have to connect each tab to *both* neighboring cells.
I would love to see/know what parts you used. Stuck trying to build a pack.
Had excellent results with remote control car brushless combo setup , some produce over 7500w from 8s lipo using 200amp speed controller
I used a special aluminum solder to tin the aluminum and regular solder for the copper. Then they could be fused together with solder.
The aluminum solder did well? How is it 1 year later?
Brilliant, I've been looking to make a power backpack for my Marita Garden tools. I've trawled online for 18650 solutions to no avail, but your video has energized me, this is genius, cheaper, better and awesome power output. Your camera work also awesome, best yet.
Would you be able to wire the finished battery packs with bms installed , in series to each other?
SAFETY NOTE! Be sure you don't place the rivets to close to the metalize pouch edge on the contacts. I did this and luckily I got a few sparks to let me know something was wrong before I completely seated the first rivet.
I know this is an old video but are the brads connecting those cells safe for the full 200a constant and 400a bursts or should i solder some 4 guage wire linking each cell as well?
This is a simple straightforward project that even I can understand. Great video. Keep them coming.
Was thinking could one use spot welding to connect batteries? Could put 5-6 spot welds per connection giving more amp transfer?
Mr Garcia, u speed up the one part im soo clueless about, where to conect the white wires for the BMS :(
slow the speed down in settings
The Dookster I did that and it still to fast to understand how to hook up the white cables.
Cuba Croll I think that he did connected the white cables to the positives on each batteries.
@@juancarloshernandez1769 each cable gets to the joint of the two packs. So in the 7s you would have 8 cables, 1 for positive, 1 negative, then 1 for each joint
Look at this and it should help you understand that it is the joint area of where they meet.
th-cam.com/video/TK7re9y_Pxs/w-d-xo.html
We can use this in the diving scooter?
so if i wanted a 45ah how many would i need and how would i get 24v down to 16v?
Thanks Jehu. Another great DIY video.👍👍👍😎😎😎
dude you make all this looks so easy
Nice video as always Jehu. I have been looking at those pouch cells. I like the idea of using low resistance cells very lightly for a long life. They are for sure much cheaper than 18650’s, but also way less work. I think the chemistry is inferior and not nearly as long life. As long as they are cheap it remains an attractive proposition.
They're designed to be cycled at high C-rates. If you're only running them at 2-3C and don't use the max/min voltages, they'll last a long time.
These cells don't have great energy density at a bit over ~100Wh/kg, but for a stationary application it's really not a big deal as long as you have the space for it.
@@phateracing But packing round hard cells into a square box lets air gaps. packing these into a box has a density like this. I put 42 of these into a 13.7 inch by 9 inch by 4-3/4 inch high box(custom made). Inside dimensions.7s 28 volt setup. I am getting 1624 watt hours out of it. 38.8 watt hours per cell. that's 105 amp hours at 4 volt. 10.5 amp hour each cell. 10500 mha. I am drawing at .03C(5 amp draw) to get this. But very impressive. 4.2 volt to 2.5 volt. On top of the box I added circuit breakers and wiring and some buss bars. And another cover. Total weight is 31 lbs. My box is 14 kg =1625 Wh. 586 cubic inches. 116 wh/kg. What can do better then that? under 580 cubic inches? Wiring, and attaching hardware included?
Also, what's the best charger to charge multiples of these?
nice DIY pack! you should have a massive off grid system, it would be so easy for you :) love your channel cya around man!!!
could you use these as a power wall to run a camper ? hot plate . lights tv ac maybe for a few hours
got a module or 2. 7s from hookup. can i use an 8 s BMS i have on hand, leave off last lead..? ok with balance only.. rely on inverter shut off for low volt cutoff.. thanks.
I always like your videos bro, you just go out there and do stuff
Saludo Garcia. pregunta. si se puedes usar estas batterias para un sistema solar de 24 v. tambien si se necesita un inverter especial para estas batterias
Are there directions to this whole kit
I would also check internal resistance.
whast the measurements of these cells? also how bug when folded?
So if u were building a pack want MAX POWER WITH THESE CELLS WHAT DO YOU CONNECT THEM WITH?
TinyBMS seems to be the thing I have found for my 150A needs.
would you be able to make a video on how this battery can be configured to use in car audio application..... your videos are very helpful thank you
I wish he would
Make a 4 cell battery with 4 cell bms! Boom good to go lol hope that helps
It’s the same exact thing just configure for 12v
Come on Jehu.....SHow us how you connected the 7s BMS to this type of IN SERIES battery system. The part that you speeded through in the video was the point that a few of us really needed to see since you had the pos-neg soldered together. Please show us how you did it . Thanks
after he connected the negative and positive you just add each wire in order to the positive terminal in the pack in the stack.
After you connected the positive how you hook up the white cables at that speed i cannot see or understand how to connect them??
www.electric-skateboard.builders/uploads/db1493/original/3X/9/5/952b92ace079e86aafd56c1aa428ef8ba3235455.jpg
jehugarcia thank you 🙏🏼 you’re the best .. I am a fan of your work god bless!!
Eyelet kit work fine for me, but i ran out of eyelets need a refill. anyone know which grommet replacements I should get? already bought the wrong size once.
Pre tin the wire on the xt connector, it will go through the hole better. And solder goes where solder has flowed!
Made one for my scooter 24v 6s. Works great.
Do you think the eyelets could do 200a?
Hi All, I'm an Electrician... Just a heads up, you can utilize a specialized paste called NOALOX. Its for any Aluminum to Copper Connection that will pass current. We use it all the time where we have copper wire inside aluminum terminal blocks. Go Get Some!
Great tip, thanks! If connecting these in parallel, would you also want to use it where the aluminum tabs touch each other?
i think its nickel plated copper tabs
Are those eyelets not brass?
@@bungle555 Yes. Aluminum grows an oxide layer on the surface when exposed to air and the paste keeps air away from the aluminum surface to prevent oxidation. Oxide increases the connection resistance and that leads to overheating at the connection under load. Without the paste things will work fine at the beginning (such as when the battery pack was initially made and tested), but over time the aluminum connections will degrade.
You made the comment that you are using a cheap BMS for this project. What BMS would you recommend for a 48v wind and solar pack? I am looking for something that will keep the packs safe.
Can the SPIM08HP batteries be safely used for a 24V power bank to power a 3000w / 120 volt AC power inverter? I am looking to build a small 24V solar power system to power a refrigerator, some electronics and a few lights during a power failure. I was thinking of using marine batteries, but they would take up too much room and are heavy and hard to move around.. Also how many 24V packs would it take to store the power I need for a 18 to 24 hour period? I live in S.E. Florida so sun light isn't a concern. Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. Jim
Can not find the cells with your link.
Hey Jehu, I notice your camera is "mounted" on your head? Can you show that setup? Thanks
Eyelets... never would have though of that. Thanks. And I've tried soldering those tabs together, it is not easy.
Yeah aluminum is very hard to solder. This method is the easiest. Others use busbars and nylon screws but this for sure is perfect.
Bus bars was my thought with stainless screws... Bus bars can be made out of copper tubing, flattened out, and drilled to match the existing holes...
Ajemo, I agree. I would never thought of it either and it seems ideal. I just ordered from Tom, and then followed Jehu's Amazon link to get the grommets. I'm getting excited! :-D
@@chadforte2572 I ended up going with a harbor freight rivet setup, surprised it turned out very clean with plenty of room to avoid shorting.
Yo bro ,I bought 42 of these thank you for your video.cheers.
Have you had any issues with your batteries? I have some that are only 6000mah in capacity with high resistance.
@@Boba-Fett-GS1150Ez That I understand and I think is mentioned in several places. Only thing that concerns me are the batteries i received that are puffed or get hot during charge. Pretty sure those are on their last stretch. Did you have any like this in your order?
Thank You for the video. I soldered some 14g wire to the tabs and added 1/4 eyelets so the cells are bolted together for the wire connection. Its not the best and I am thinking about redoing this the way you have. My use is not high power right now around 3-4 Amps. Just hobby use for solar and getting into Lipo batteries.
Great video,
What if one was to use these for high power,
What circle connectors would you use different and what gauge output positive and negative?
Let’s say I needed 200 amps continuously and 400 bursts at 100v
So I would double each one to 2p or 3p
do the rivets like he did but also solder 4 guage wire to one side of the positive and negative connections which are riveted. On your first negative and last positive use 2awg cable it is rated for 350 constant.
Are these good for electric go kart
What kind of connection can u use to get the full power out of the cells I'm building an audio system very high power output ANY ASSISTANCE WOULD BE GREAT 👍
Do you have a parts list of everything you put into your solar generator? Inverter, regulator, hookups, control lcd?
Could they be used for a electric bike or would that stress them.
Yes but you would need to connect more in series to get correct voltage he's doing 7s for 24v so say do 14s for 48v and so on most electric bikes won't pull more then 30 amps
13s is 48v 14s is 52v but either will work on most 48v systems. However the 52v will obviously be a little faster
If you still have the footage, could you show the white wire hook up of the BMS ...?
Would it be possible to use theses cells to make a lipo replacement for a car battery.... maybe suggest a BMS or no BMS? I feel like 200Amp should be enough for a 4 cylinder.
How would you make 7s10p pack? Would you make the 10p and join the 7 packs or vice versa?
Can be done both ways.
Great Video!. Quick question. can you spot weld them?
Thanks
OK, now I understand the BMS, thankyou for the help! However, how many of the BMS wires did you connect to the batteries, only 3 or all 6 wires and at which point?
I ordered some of these batteries and am trying to use them to replace my RV batteries and and in a solar setup. I am not sure what BMS to buy . My RV hooks up to 50a so should I buy a 4s 50a BMS?
100 amp bms(70 amp nominal)always overkill on bms
What about spot welding them together
Would you consider connecting with brass standoffs, 3mm x 3mm or so?? Or possibily 0.125" aluminum rivets?
what u do with all these battries
hello i'm new in building battery pack . what to know if i can make a 48v 13s spim08hp for e-bike or is just better to build two 24v 7s spim08hp pack and what charger should i use ?
i just got some of these cells, have you noticed any problems with them shorting to the cases? Im thinking most of that is because I used bolts, nuts and washers.
Can you do a video on electrical safety? Especially on the 48v higher amperage setups and dangers associated with ac vs dc (if there is even a difference?). I am curious know at what point these systems can start to harm you.
Would you use these for Solar? For a cottage?
I did. Works great.
Mr Garcia, I built 6 of those batteries. What can I do with those? I just wanted to built but I have no plan with to do with. Can I buy some solar panels and setup for off grid or on grid? If I can, how many panels should I buy? Those 7S1P battery has how many amp, watt ? What is the best way to charge and setup? Thank you for you time. John C
I am trying to come up with a solution to powering a fishfinder and two go pro cameras while i am in the field 6 to 8 hours per day. 50ah 12v would work just fine. could you maybe do a video on that?
Will these work for electric fishing reels in a salt water environment?
What type of wire connectors is that for the cell packs? Thanks. Spelt Kapton as captain in my search.
Hello! Thanks for your video! It is still very useful! But where you bought these batteries from the link - they are no longer available! Please tell me where now you can buy such batteries?
doesn't galvanic corrosion only occur when something like salt water travels over the two dissimilar metals?
Do we know who these cells are made by?
Got a question for you. 1 have a 120v controller. What would work better:16.8 volt packs x 7=117.6 volts( full charged 4.2 volts per cell) or 24 volt packs charged to( 4.0 volts per cell)?
10s * 3?
So I bought 20 of these, one is soft, more bendable, like it lost it's internal vacuum--is this cell a problem? Thanks Jehu
spim08hp flat cells from battery hookups. danger danger. they don't tell you. many of these cells have problems inside. there is current flow between the foil covering insulation layer and the terminals of many cells. measure the terminal to edge voltage along the seams. i'v gotten 3.9 volts off the foil wrapper. the cells will puff and be destroyed from self discharge. many of my 60 plus cells i bought do not have this problem. all the 30 % that puffed without ever being under load have the short to the foil. warning the edges of the cell packs carry current. not safe for marine environment at all. i only made 12 volt packs at higher voltages there will be bigger sparks from foil to terminals. danger if they self discharge they will puff and oh they say you didn't do good assembly. they don't say anything about do not touch electrically hot foil next to terminals. if a buss bar touches the edge of the foil it will short out the whole battery.
@@willfriar8054 thanks will check em
Can someone link a 10s BMS that will work with these cells?
your inverter in the dead short test video sounds like the bearing of the cooling fans was going bad you might need to replace those sometime in the future.
For 12v 3s or 4s?
Nice video. However, I didn’t see how you connected the white wires to the individual batteries.
I think he soldered them to the brass eyelets. the black wire #1 wire goes to the neg end of the first cell. (Main negative of pack). the 2nd wire (white) beside the black wire goes to the positive side of the same first cell. Then the 3rd wire(white) goes to the positive side of the second cell. 4th wire to positive of 3rd cell. Keep going down the connector. All wires go to the positive sides of the cells. Having a red wire and calling it the positive is confusing,. all whites are positive . There are 7s connectors being sold that have the black wire on the wrong side. Follow the negative mark on your charger or balancer, then go from there.
@Ronando even though its series connection it's still just 3.7v cells stacked it's one common negative and 7positive points.
Jehu,
Is there a good way to make an engine start battery that will stay hooked to an alternator while running? These batteries need to stop charging once full and disconnect from the charging circuit, but an alternator needs to have a battery to keep working. I have seen engine start Lipo batteries for racing vehicles to reduce weight, but I don't see them used for this in everyday vehicles. I would like to replace 240 pounds of batteries in my boat with a lot less weight.
It's time to invest in a tripod for a steady camera, my man. Great video.
Jehu, I was wondering if you thought of making these into 10S 36V packs and use them in your Tripp Lite Emergency Solar generator project? I just got the hollow UPS and was musing over the idea of stuffing 2 10S packs with these SPIM08 pouches. Do you think they would fit? I know the original idea of the Tripp Lite project was to make something simple and off-the-shelf, but where's the fun in that?
Try it
Hey, good build. What's the width with those tabs taped down on the side? (I'm curious why you didn't use kapton tape there.) Tom's video didn't give the thickness, either.
A tip for better soldering, Jehu, is to wet that sponge and wipe the oxidized solder and rosin off the tip. It will transfer more heat and faster, every single time.
Quick question: I'm holding up the build of an ebike (the sale of which will allow me to make another 2 ebikes) hoping that you'll sell those Sony VTC6es to me some time soon. Are you going to get back into the sales of those wonderful batteries in the next month or two? I'd love to buy a whole box of Sony and another whole box of Panasonic. (we fans WANT you to succeed in DIY Powerwall board kits and battery sales, Jehu!)
The width with the outer wrap taped down is 4.7 inches , the thickness is .325 of an inch .The outer length. end of tab to end of tab is 8 inches.
What is there width?
What is that extra plug coming out of the pack?
i need to run brushless motor rated 25kw, 100v, how many of this battery i need?
tq
What's your thoughts on using these packs to run a trolling motor? If so how many packs would you need to get 120 AH @ 12V I think it would be 15 right?
thats what Im doing with these. You only get the AH increase for the parrallel connections I believe. so 3 in series x 15 in parallel =45 cells would be 12v 120 ah. Unfortunelatley you will go slower once they drop in voltage so maybe opt for a 4s pack. Disclaimer: you may or may not burn up your 12v motor running it for long periods at 16 volts, I got a speed controller/potentiometer to eliminate this risk.
Nice little pack, I would just avoid wrapping the whole thing up in the tape, if there is an expansion in the cells you don't want them to have pressure holding them tightly like that. A few pieces on the sides to hold the shape whilst still allowing the centre to bulge if there is a problem would be better.
Pouch cells need to be under some amount of compression to work properly under load.
But at only 2-3C these things are pretty much never gonna have a problem.
phateracing just to make sure I understand correctly what you're saying; keeping these batteries and their current usage in mind, they DO indeed have to be wrapped? So as to keep compression and work properly?
@@MrGarda42 The pouch itself is all the compression that is needed in pouch cells like these. What @phateracting is saying doesn't make any sense... As far as packs being compressed and the cells expanding - yeah its an issue but id rather build for the use-case than a "what if" this is what battery pouches (thermal/ballistic resistant pouches) are for.
hi, i am kind of new to this. but i thought, your doing a 7s for a 24v pack and that would mean a 8ah pack. but you say you used a 20ah bms and that you intend to do another project were you are going to use 6 of these packs and you say 6X20=120ah. could you explain? cuase i am thinking on doing a 7s 30p for 240ah. is that to crazy? was thinking initially to do 30p to get the 240ah and then take those packs and assemble the 7s. but then i thought the gage wire would be to big to handle 240amps. so i remembered this video and thought, why not do what jehu did, the 7s 24v packs. do 30 of those and then do the 30p to get the 240amps at the end. this way i would use smaller gage wire. simpler packs and would have the 24 volts right out the bat, and if a pack fails down the road, just have to take that pack out with out losing the 24v and only sacrificing the amps in that pack. please give your thoughts. would highly apreciate.
Yeah.... ebike... AND... what was the ending HxWxD of these bad boys? Using Horror Freight plastic ammo cans to house these. They work GREAT for my 4s2p (12v-ish) or 8s1p (24v-ish) 38120 Headways.
Did you capacity test any of these? Tom says 95-105% rated. Joe said his was in the 7.5ah hood! Just curious if you tested, and matched these? I'm thinking of building packs of 100 , for a 7s maybe connected in series, with 1" x .125" with 250-300 amp fuses, I may need spacers between ever so many cells , I havent built with these before, I'd rather build wit pouch, than 10k 18650's , I hope I can get this many, being on sale,
So can you make these into 12v packs with 3 or 4?
cian smith same question
it would be sweet to get rid of my lead acid car battery. lately it seems like I have to hike that thing up the mountain to my jeep every time I get it going. Guess the pack just needs a bms that works. pretty much most of the reviews for this bms are crap. bet there is a nice one somewhere.
Same concept th-cam.com/video/MdhyOFeOqyE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for explaining BMS
What about a12 v pack?
Anyway you can do a video of you using 1 or 2 of these batteries to make a external power bank to charge cellphones and other devices?
Try using 100/200c discharge lipo . batteries,higher the c rating the more constant power.
What’s the capacity of the battery you made ????
Can I make a battery pack for an ammo can stereo with those??
These actually fit nice in an ammo can. I made an ammo can trolling motor battery with these.
@@tomamerman7699 thanks for the information yeah I drive tractor so I like to put a stereo ammo can battery use with me but using the big block batteries I want to change it up make it a little lighter
@@tomamerman7699 How did that work out? That's what I'm wanting to do some kind of 24 o 36v 60 to 80 ah battery for trolling.
Worked great. Fit 20 in an ammo can, 36v 16ah. This will be working 20 years from now
@@tomamerman7699 Only 16ah don't work for long does it? I'm thinking at least 60ah. It's going on a bass boat.
I have a question. To make a pack of lithium batteries to 12 v I can combine cells of different capacity to have 3 pack of 21 Ah. Using batteries of 2.2 ah and 2.6 ah ?
Yes, you make groups of matching capacity
So could you make 12v packs using these pouch batteries and then wite the packs in series to maintain the 12v and gain more ah capacity?
Another great DYI e build!! I am going to try this build. The battery cells seem like a great deal on Ebay. My question is , what would you recomend for a BMS that can handle 80-100 A burst? yet supply 40-60 all the time? This will be for a skateboard/e bike. Thanks
Will you advise 4S 5P or 3S 7P for a portable 12V power pack ?
Thank you.
4s lifepo4 is the way to go th-cam.com/video/MdhyOFeOqyE/w-d-xo.html
I am building these 7s packs. .I need around 15 amps from each pack to max my motor out Plz tell me your recommended amp draw from 1 of these? Thanks for your videos!
Each cell is good for 200A max. Buy a 20A BMS and you are good.
great video man. If I want to make a 12v solar generator, would you suggest making a 3s battery or a 4s? I want to get the most out of my cells and am not sure which one to do.
if anyone here has any suggestions that would be appreciated
@@harrisonsanin8 4s all day, just gotta make sure you get a solar charge controller that can be set to charge at the appropriate voltage, the cheap ones are just for lead acid batteries. And of course make sure your 12v load wont fry on your full charge voltage of 16.8. Or if your using an inverter get one that will handle that voltage. .
@@Noone-l6g ore goe with lifepo 4 cells 4s they are at 14.4 v like an lead acid baterie
@@Noone-l6g would the one that he uses in his cheap Kodiak build work?
I bought a bunch of these, and they're fantastic. I have a question, though. Mine came with a huge amount of the pouch material all around the cells. Did you cut it off? I'm so afraid I'm going to break the seal/start it on fire if I do, but it's huge, like an inch on each side, and makes it harder to make into a pack.
HE FOLDED THEM OVER AT THE START.
Thank you for your videos. Can you still live video about stored energy for trailers. Your suggested best way with convenience and space. May God bless you and your work and your endeavors. 🙏🏽🙏🏾🙏🏿😇🙏🙏🏿🙏🏻
Questions for all. If you were to do this as 4s packs. mount a few packs in a box, then install into a car. Many lithium chargers can take the 14.5 volt charge from the alternator and manage charging the 4s packs. Problem is, the alt needs power supplied to it to create a field to charge. Once the packs reach 14.5 volts, the alt will be shut down by the car's voltage regulator. Is there any way to get a charger to send a 12v signal out until the packs reach 16 volts? then cut the 12 volt line . I guess a charger that knows how to manage a cars onboard voltage regulator? And a shunt that would limit the 16 volt to 13 volt so the car is not damaged?