I just did this same thing with ball bearings I got at Harbor Freight for $1.99 each. They look identical to what you ordered. Did the same thing with the tape, but figured out that it works better to use heavy duty - long cable ties and wrap each ball bearing with one cable tie - twice in an X pattern. The X keeps it from slipping off the ends of the ball tabs and if you use good, heavy duty ones, you can really crank them down so they hold really nice. Thanks for putting together the video. Really made this job a lot easier.
I did the two ties like he did but used a small tie perpendicular to the two that holds the two so they donʻt separate. Different methods, same result. :) These these would be unbearable without adding these bearings.
I tried the same metal ball casters but they ended up marking up my concrete bad. It looked like chalk marks all over the place so switched to the nylon roller balls. I'll need to replace them in the near future as they will wear down but no longer ruining my concrete. They are cheap and easy to replace. I also used the smallest self tapping screws I could find. As the Zip ties would come loose over time and JB welding them would make it hard to remove them. Drilled very tiny holes as to minimize metal removal. I currently place 4 jack stands around the vehicle as a backup. More so in case the latch system fails...pops out of the very small metal stop a the bottom on either side. I'll also be making brackets to support the Quick Jacks as I still get the uneasy feeling while under the if I don't have jack stands in the corners. I almost forgot to mention that I had one hose leack and the latch had not fallen in place to lock. Fortunately I had jack stands nearby and prevented a disaster.
How did they work? Do you think putting a hole in the QJack would weaken it? I don't see how it would. Just asking for other ways to attach the rollers other that a zip tie which didn't work well for me. Thanks!
I have seen a few videos where people have added rollers to the QuickJack. I like the idea, but the additional resting height added by the rollers needs to be very small (like 0.25”) otherwise my lowest riding cars will not be able to park over them. I leave the QuickJack in the middle of the parking space in the garage, rather than hang them on the wall.
Yeah I don't lift mine up to store on the wall anymore either. I had your same thoughts in mind, and if you position the rollers where I did in the video, it will only add .25" to the height of the quickjacks.
While my car is on my QJ and I’m underneath it, there’s one direction I for sure don’t want it moving, especially not easily: laterally! Cool mod for making it easier to set up though.
@dave5833 - I considered doing that as well - but honestly - there's no need. I tried just using the tape and cable ties and that works perfectly. It's honestly just a lot less trouble and these little ball wheels don't show any signs of trying to come off. I figured I could always screw them on there later if they come off, but they haven't.
Exactly! Why go as far as drilling and tapping holes when its not necessary! Try the tape and cable ties first, and then if you don't like it, then make a decision after that.
That would definitely be a cleaner and stronger attachment method. Might want to call and ask the design engineers if they have any concerns that tapping into the lift legs could weaken the structure? If they say no or not appreciably, I'd go for it.
I agree. The manufacturer was lazy when it came to mobility engineering. I put 1-1/4" caster wheels on mine with 3M tape and zip ties. I got tired of tweaking my back trying to drag my QJ's around to place under the car.
I added a smaller version of the roller with double sided tape two years ago and they’re still on . Folks need to understand that the lifted weight is NOT on the rollers. My problem is parking a car over the ramps keeps them exposed to nasty dripping ( read salt) in my area.
They just need to try it. So glad its working for you. And if one falls off, then just apply new tape. Maybe you could spray it with a teflon coating or fluid film/woolwax type stuff to keep it from rusting. Leaving them on the floor is key for convenience, they are large and heavy to move around and hang on a wall. Parking over them saves a ton of space. 👍
@@baldeaglegarage thanks for the update. I implemented the same improvement on my quick jack. I love it, the usability went from a 3 to a 10. I really appreciate the suggestion. Now I look for reasons to use the jack. 👏
My rollers are positioned to lift the Quickjack 1/2" off the ground. It all depends what blocks you use and where you're lifting the vehicle. Thanks for the comment
@edamnaf9265 - I'm using them on my C7 Corvette which is pretty low. The roller balls don't really ad but MAYBE 1/2 of height...I didn't notice any real difference in getting them under the rockers of the car yesterday. I found these same roller balls at Harbor Freight for $1.99 each. Maybe get you enough for one ramp and test fit them. It sure makes a world of difference in how easy those Quick Jacks are to use.
Could you just use self tapping screws to secure the rollers to the frame?? I'm in the process of adding the rollers right now and hope to get an answer soon. Thanks! Dan
@@baldeaglegarage Didn't say I wanted to, just asking asking if you could use self tappers. What would it hurt? It would only be a 1/8 or 3/16th screw.
laittamalla kuulat lähemmäksi saranapistettä jaksaa nostin nostaa kuulat irti maasta ,kun painopiste lähellä saranaa ja nostimen paino painaa sen ihan alas.vaatii tasaisen lattian niin kuulat pysyvät paikoillaan
Why make the job harder than it needs to be? Why create holes in the Quickjacks that aren't necessary? Sure using screws or rivets will hold too, but its not necessary. Cable ties and double side tape have been doing great for a couple years now. And if the caster wear out, I can replace them easily with any brand or design I choose without having to line up holes I created earlier or adding more. Also with cable ties and double side tape, I can adjust height if I didn't get it right the first time. Its cheaper, faster, adjustable, not permanent, and easily replaceable all while preforming the duties desired. It checks all the boxes, the real question is, why wouldn't you at least try it first? Then if you still don't like it, at least you know exactly where you want to drill holes in your Quickjacks. Thanks for watching
Why not use Silicone Seal and fill the cavity of those rollers and then clamp them to the bars for a few days till the Silicone Seal fully dries. Of course both surfaces need to be clean and oil-free.
I wouldn't screw or rivet anything into the jack. It probably wouldn't compromise the integrity enough to matter, but why risk it? Plus, if it ever did fail, you would likely lose any ability to litigate as you modified the original design.
@@musicmason My thoughts exactly. Why add the risk factor if it's not necessary. Yes, you would "probably" get by with it, but any time you punch holes in a weight bearing structure, you most certainly run the risk of creating a failure.
That's not at all what is shown here. Rollers are to maneuver the Quickjack into place. Once Quickjack starts to raise, the rollers come off the ground. Watch the video again, I hope this helps
HMMM..... No way those Zipties and 3M tape is going to hold up. Definitely need self tapping screws. I'm also concerned that those bearings will stand up to the initial stresses of a car loading on them. I get that once lifted, they transfer the load to teh inner frame, but that initial stage is going to be very taxing on those rollers. I like the concept though. I hope they hold up. Cool idea!
So far they've been wroking great. The other part of your comment tells me you don't have Quickjacks. There is no weight of the vehicle on the rollers. The Quickjacks can't lift a load from zero height. They have to be up a couple inches to be able to lift the weight of the vehicle. There is no "intial stage". The Quickjack instructions illustrate this. At the height required for the Quickjacks to be able to handle vehicle weight, the rollers are off the ground already. You can also adjust this with placing the roller further up the frame, so it lifts off the ground sooner. The ball bearing position I used in the video is working great for me. And if I want to change it in the future, its just cable ties and sticky tape. Nothing permanant. If a cable tie breaks, then I'll just put another one on, nbd.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
I added the 1" roller balls to my Quick Lift . Works great now. Under $20.
yeah such an easy and cheap mod
I just did this same thing with ball bearings I got at Harbor Freight for $1.99 each. They look identical to what you ordered. Did the same thing with the tape, but figured out that it works better to use heavy duty - long cable ties and wrap each ball bearing with one cable tie - twice in an X pattern. The X keeps it from slipping off the ends of the ball tabs and if you use good, heavy duty ones, you can really crank them down so they hold really nice. Thanks for putting together the video. Really made this job a lot easier.
Awesome! Yeah its still going good for me. Use QuickJacks all the time, so nice to not have to lift them up anymore.
I did the two ties like he did but used a small tie perpendicular to the two that holds the two so they donʻt separate. Different methods, same result. :) These these would be unbearable without adding these bearings.
Great idea and modification to the Quickjack that doesn’t compromise the safety or function of the WJ’s.
🦅
I tried the same metal ball casters but they ended up marking up my concrete bad. It looked like chalk marks all over the place so switched to the nylon roller balls. I'll need to replace them in the near future as they will wear down but no longer ruining my concrete. They are cheap and easy to replace. I also used the smallest self tapping screws I could find. As the Zip ties would come loose over time and JB welding them would make it hard to remove them. Drilled very tiny holes as to minimize metal removal. I currently place 4 jack stands around the vehicle as a backup. More so in case the latch system fails...pops out of the very small metal stop a the bottom on either side. I'll also be making brackets to support the Quick Jacks as I still get the uneasy feeling while under the if I don't have jack stands in the corners. I almost forgot to mention that I had one hose leack and the latch had not fallen in place to lock. Fortunately I had jack stands nearby and prevented a disaster.
I don’t own a quick jack yet, but when I do buy one, this is what I will install. Thanks for posting!
Yeah it makes using and storing them more convenient! Thanks for the comment
Perfect side view of operation! I bought these 1" rollers at Harbor Freight, and I will use hex head self- tappers when located. Thank you!
How did they work? Do you think putting a hole in the QJack would weaken it? I don't see how it would. Just asking for other ways to attach the rollers other that a zip tie which didn't work well for me. Thanks!
Maybe try 2 part epoxy.
I have seen a few videos where people have added rollers to the QuickJack. I like the idea, but the additional resting height added by the rollers needs to be very small (like 0.25”) otherwise my lowest riding cars will not be able to park over them. I leave the QuickJack in the middle of the parking space in the garage, rather than hang them on the wall.
Yeah I don't lift mine up to store on the wall anymore either. I had your same thoughts in mind, and if you position the rollers where I did in the video, it will only add .25" to the height of the quickjacks.
While my car is on my QJ and I’m underneath it, there’s one direction I for sure don’t want it moving, especially not easily: laterally! Cool mod for making it easier to set up though.
it doesn't move once it starts going up, the wheels lift off the ground
Best solution I have seen yet well done Sir. My plan is to tap and die holes in the Quick Jack
Thanks!
@dave5833 - I considered doing that as well - but honestly - there's no need. I tried just using the tape and cable ties and that works perfectly. It's honestly just a lot less trouble and these little ball wheels don't show any signs of trying to come off. I figured I could always screw them on there later if they come off, but they haven't.
Exactly! Why go as far as drilling and tapping holes when its not necessary! Try the tape and cable ties first, and then if you don't like it, then make a decision after that.
That would definitely be a cleaner and stronger attachment method. Might want to call and ask the design engineers if they have any concerns that tapping into the lift legs could weaken the structure? If they say no or not appreciably, I'd go for it.
Came from your other video. Thanks for posting.
Awesome! Thanks for stopping by! Quickjacks are a great tool
Nice just got mine and ordered these thanks for putting this up
Awesome!
Love the Video and idea for the quick jack I have always struggled with fine adjustments for positioning!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I agree. The manufacturer was lazy when it came to mobility engineering. I put 1-1/4" caster wheels on mine with 3M tape and zip ties. I got tired of tweaking my back trying to drag my QJ's around to place under the car.
It works, its so simple to do and the payoff is great.
I added a smaller version of the roller with double sided tape two years ago and they’re still on . Folks need to understand that the lifted weight is NOT on the rollers. My problem is parking a car over the ramps keeps them exposed to nasty dripping ( read salt) in my area.
They just need to try it. So glad its working for you. And if one falls off, then just apply new tape. Maybe you could spray it with a teflon coating or fluid film/woolwax type stuff to keep it from rusting. Leaving them on the floor is key for convenience, they are large and heavy to move around and hang on a wall. Parking over them saves a ton of space. 👍
your idea is nice use hose clamps instead of zip ties works better. i done same thing with small casters
Great idea, thanks for watching
There are a few videos depicting this mod. I surprised QuickJack hasn't made this available for their customers.
yeah pick which one works best for you!
Thanks for taking the time to share. How has the durability been over the past year?
Yeah it’s going good. I’ve replaced one cable tie that broke. Rollers are good, still a great cheap and easy hack.
@@baldeaglegarage thanks for the update. I implemented the same improvement on my quick jack. I love it, the usability went from a 3 to a 10. I really appreciate the suggestion. Now I look for reasons to use the jack. 👏
Awesome hack.
Its still working well!
Awesome thanks!
Thanks for watching!
great video, thanks. considering getting QJs soon. Where can I get that American flag hat??
This is the one I bought amzn.to/3QOqBkb
wonder how the nylon version would hold up ?
I'm sure it would work well. Nylon would be nicer to the concrete and not corrode.
my cars are really low, so adding the roller height likely wouldn't work for me (I own the 7000TXL)....but cool idea.
My rollers are positioned to lift the Quickjack 1/2" off the ground. It all depends what blocks you use and where you're lifting the vehicle.
Thanks for the comment
@edamnaf9265 - I'm using them on my C7 Corvette which is pretty low. The roller balls don't really ad but MAYBE 1/2 of height...I didn't notice any real difference in getting them under the rockers of the car yesterday. I found these same roller balls at Harbor Freight for $1.99 each. Maybe get you enough for one ramp and test fit them. It sure makes a world of difference in how easy those Quick Jacks are to use.
Could you just use self tapping screws to secure the rollers to the frame?? I'm in the process of adding the rollers right now and hope to get an answer soon. Thanks! Dan
Why would you want to create a hole in your Quickjack frame?
@@baldeaglegarage Didn't say I wanted to, just asking asking if you could use self tappers. What would it hurt? It would only be a 1/8 or 3/16th screw.
Saw this guy do this with the same wheels from harbor freight and zip ties same concept
Awesome!
laittamalla kuulat lähemmäksi saranapistettä jaksaa nostin nostaa kuulat irti maasta ,kun painopiste lähellä saranaa ja nostimen paino painaa sen ihan alas.vaatii tasaisen lattian niin kuulat pysyvät paikoillaan
Why not either screw or pop rivet them on.
Why make the job harder than it needs to be? Why create holes in the Quickjacks that aren't necessary? Sure using screws or rivets will hold too, but its not necessary. Cable ties and double side tape have been doing great for a couple years now. And if the caster wear out, I can replace them easily with any brand or design I choose without having to line up holes I created earlier or adding more. Also with cable ties and double side tape, I can adjust height if I didn't get it right the first time. Its cheaper, faster, adjustable, not permanent, and easily replaceable all while preforming the duties desired. It checks all the boxes, the real question is, why wouldn't you at least try it first? Then if you still don't like it, at least you know exactly where you want to drill holes in your Quickjacks. Thanks for watching
Why not use Silicone Seal and fill the cavity of those rollers and then clamp them to the bars for a few days till the Silicone Seal fully dries. Of course both surfaces need to be clean and oil-free.
Sounds like more work than I already did. The 3M tape works great. Keep it simple
@baldeaglegarage Doesn't sound like 3M tape can last. I like doing things once.
@@achristian7015 you can build yours anyway you want! 😀
You should use rivets to secure the rollers instead of tape.
Why do you say that?
The rails is't that wide you really don't want to taper with rails like that ties is a better choice
Seems like rivets or screw/bolts would be better
How would that be better?
I wouldn't screw or rivet anything into the jack. It probably wouldn't compromise the integrity enough to matter, but why risk it? Plus, if it ever did fail, you would likely lose any ability to litigate as you modified the original design.
Exactly! Its not necessary to use screws.
@@musicmason My thoughts exactly. Why add the risk factor if it's not necessary. Yes, you would "probably" get by with it, but any time you punch holes in a weight bearing structure, you most certainly run the risk of creating a failure.
Right!
So, you invented a vehicle dolly, a 2' tall dolly, with support arms that are not capable of countering lateral loads.
That's not at all what is shown here. Rollers are to maneuver the Quickjack into place. Once Quickjack starts to raise, the rollers come off the ground. Watch the video again, I hope this helps
Run some self tappers in those things. Sticky tape ain't gonna hold for long...
Its not necessary though.
That's what I did
HMMM..... No way those Zipties and 3M tape is going to hold up. Definitely need self tapping screws. I'm also concerned that those bearings will stand up to the initial stresses of a car loading on them. I get that once lifted, they transfer the load to teh inner frame, but that initial stage is going to be very taxing on those rollers. I like the concept though. I hope they hold up. Cool idea!
So far they've been wroking great. The other part of your comment tells me you don't have Quickjacks. There is no weight of the vehicle on the rollers. The Quickjacks can't lift a load from zero height. They have to be up a couple inches to be able to lift the weight of the vehicle. There is no "intial stage". The Quickjack instructions illustrate this. At the height required for the Quickjacks to be able to handle vehicle weight, the rollers are off the ground already. You can also adjust this with placing the roller further up the frame, so it lifts off the ground sooner. The ball bearing position I used in the video is working great for me. And if I want to change it in the future, its just cable ties and sticky tape. Nothing permanant. If a cable tie breaks, then I'll just put another one on, nbd.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack.
Sorry to hear your issues. I've had none, they work great. They take more time to set up, but once its up, I feel safer under it than jack stands.